Project Himalaya's exploratory treks

Our explorations in Nepal and India

Here is a list of our major exploratory treks.
The links may lead to updated versions of the info pages.

See Nepal treks and India treks for our current treks.

* means these wonderful people have trekked multiple times with us.
+ means summitted the peak.

Recent previous treks | 2022 | 2019-21| 2018
2017 | 2016 |2015 | 2014 | 2013 | 2012
2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006
2005 | 2004 | 2002-03 | 2000-01 | pre-2000

Our exploratory treks

2011-2015 expeditions | 2000-2010 expeditions | 2004-2010 expedition dispatches

Is the golden age of exploratory trekking dead?

And is the golden age of Nepal camping treks dead too? Almost ...

"I am thankful that I was able to go on several trips with you, Joel, & Kim. It really was the golden age of trekking. No one else did trips like you. They were definitely exploratory & special."
Jeff Splitgaber 

For our style of truly exploratory route-finding treks in Nepal, yes. First, there are no routes truly left to explore, or at least significant trek routes that have some real use. We have trekked them all! We literally opened the Lumba Samba route from the Kanchenjunga region to the Arun River as the first trekkers to cross, and years later, this was a crucial section for the Nepal GHT (Great Himalaya Trail). Following, I have a list of the significance of the various routes we opened. But even before this and before the rise of Google Earth, we ran no less than seven (!) 42 day trips in the Kanchenjunga region (plus one much later) where we thoroughly explored the whole region, checking out every nook and cranny. Most of Jamie's treks were at least somewhat exploratory.

The second way our major exploratory treks are almost dead is organizing a long full camping trip using porters away from villages is getting to be unrealistic. Quite simply, there are fewer porters available, and they can now pick and choose their work (good for them!). Our treks were tough, however we looked after the porters well with large warm tents for them to sleep in, provided a porter cook (yes, who only cooked for the porters!) and also provided the food supplies so that they would not run out. But could we now find 24 porters who would join us for 42 days across West Nepal? Probably not.

Sure, in terms of camping trips, Roland (The Mountain Company) still organises a bunch of full camping trips, and we could arrange some less ambitious or shorter routes - and may well do, I still have a few routes in mind, but heading into the real unknown is not likely anymore.

The crew working out our route in Mugu, West Nepal - Jamie

The first sentence of explanation does have a few qualifications though. There are still fun route exploration projects to be had but they are on a smaller scale and possibly hydrid backpacking would work better rather than fully supported. Is the route from Dudh Kund below Numbur-Katang to Lumding Kharka a safely feasible, fun trekking route? Which might be the best route from the Lurupya Khola to the Take Khola-Loti Karnali in the Far West? We found one (after failing hilariously the first time), but it is the best?

For our 2018 and 2019 ranging treks from Upper Mustang across Dolpo, we used mules instead of porters and this worked, and is feasible for areas where mules can go – which is many places but not everywhere. However, in 2023 watching how our mules were treated left me with feelings of guilt. I planned rest days for the mules (exploration days for us) and was disheartened to see the mule drivers hire out the team for pocket money.

All is not lost though – oh, wait ...  from 2019 our main Nepal trek each season has had an element of “before it’s gone”, and our Upper Mustang to Dolpo trek discovered that trekking the trails now turned into rough roads (Chharka to Shimen) is not as pleasant as the small trails around Bhijer, even if we cover far less distance in a day. Our 2022 Middle Dolpo followed the Tarap Khola gorge before the road connects, although we still ended up trudging along a couple of days of unexpected rough road (and untimely snow thwarted our Schaller trail and other exploratory aims).

This spiders web of rough roads over the middle hills has also reduced the pleasant trekking options, although undoubtedly provided convenience for the locals that live there. The "middle way" or cultural trail of the GHT has turned into dust, or at least dusty roads. Even travelling by jeep on these roads is brutal and not certain, so they don't add value to trekkers.

Ladakh layers - Jamie

There is still Ladakh-Zanskar (India), and we have a better, more durable setup and a few routes still to reconnoitre and connect. Our mules there are well looked after and never beaten, our crew are paid 50% more than in Nepal, and want to explore too. Now and in the future our longer Ladakh and Zanskar trips will mostly be a combination of "the best of" with a dose of exploration. In quite a different style, Indian fast packers are now exploring their back yard, and the few additional military roads do add value.

So, yes, the golden age of big exploratory treks in Nepal is dead, but there is still some exploratory fun to be had. And I'm still going to be out there doing it!

Here is a list of exploratory treks that we have run on one page, rather than scattered throughout our 25 (!) separate pages of all the treks and expeditions Project Himalaya have run. It turned out to be way longer than I expected!

Our exploratory treks

Here's a quick list of the most major trek routes in Nepal that our exploratory treks opened up. We will never be able to explore a route of such significance again.

2012+2015 GHT Wild West exploration - Major; we broke trail to be the first trekkers ever to trek Darchula to Simikot between Api and Saipal, staying completely in Nepal! And in 2015 we slightly straightened this route. Each of these treks also had a Mugu section where we also broke trekking ground by finding a high route from Simikot to Mugu village, a much more exciting trek than the normal route over some low passes.

2015 GHT Mugu Wild *exploratory - after a 2012 false start, we found a fab high route from Simikot to Mugu village, much more interesting than the normal route over some low passes. This crosses Ohkale Lehk and Humla Patan.

2011 GHT Dolpo Wild exploration - After gaining permission from the royal family, we were the first trek team to cross the Lakyap/Kekyap passes from Lo Manthang to Chharka. We also rerouted the GHT near Bhijer saving a 5368m pass crossing (and crossed the tough high route between Dolpo and Mugu without incident).

2010 GHT Mustang & Saribung Wild - we traversed from Upper Mustang to Nar-Phu over the Saribung La and climbed Saribung 6328m. A handful of groups failed before us and we learned from their mistakes.

2009 GHT Makalu Wild - straightening the GHT, we were the very first trekkers to cross from Chyangtang to Makalu Base Camp the direct way.

2008 Limi-Saipal - Jamie discovered the crucial pass near Saipal for the 2012 GHT Wild West trek.

2005 Kanchen Gola Wild - we were the first trekkers to cross the Lumba Samba, ie the high route from Kanchenjunga to the Makalu region, and crucial for the GHT.

2022-23

Our India and Nepal treks are combined in this list.

2023 Zanskar Khi *exploratory

An exploratory mystery, probing the valley system from Khi village and a neglected mountaineering pass that might be a new key to crossing the Great Himalayan Range.

22 Aug-25 Sept/2 Oct, 35/42 days — Jamie McGuinness
Members: David K**, Jim Twiss******* with Esther (and Masala the dog)
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Ram Lal and Bishal with 11 horses-mules
Resupply: Lobsang (and the other dog Cheese)

This was a trek from Zanskar villages and the colourful Zanskar rock into the real Great Himalaya Range with hanging glaciers, sheer rock and still raging rivers, so a real contrast in a couple of days walking.

For the exploratory section, the monsoon should have ended and several weather forecasts plus the Indian Meteorological Dept even said so but ...

After staying in Kargyak and waving off Michelle, Ints and Natalie, we headed into that large valley from Khi/sKhing. We wanted to talk with locals about the old pass however it was harvest time and with everyone working, first on the roads, then after that, harvesting, we were not able to extract more info.

Our first camp was slightly dusty but convenient then the next day Ram Lal pushed on to the very last patch of greenery that the horses could access and, by luck, there was a spring and it was a fine camp, as close to the action as we could get. After a probe up the glacier on a drizzly day, we turned back but more daringly Kunga and Ram Lal trekked a fair way up the glacier. Alas, there was a lot of cloud and not the visibility needed, which is what I had feared.

The following day, we had a needed rest day as the predicted fine weather instead felt even more monsoonal, however the day after was much better and we set off with purpose. After the morning break Jim and David turned back, to my disappointment. Esther and I continued up at a faster pace and with good navigation headed up the moraine. We turned right, heading further up mostly on ice, crossing a couple of relatively minor streams in the ice, to a point opposite to where I thought the pass may be. We could see that with a lot more ice, the route to where I guessed the pass may be, would be feasible. I scanned the pass top with binoculars but could see no sign of human construction. However, on the glacial ice I did find small bright orange O-ring, likely for a stove. While slightly stiff, rather than supple, it didn't break with my flexing it. I am guessing this was discarded by a mountaineering group.

During winter, Kunga talked with locals who have a memory of the pass and indeed, I was looking at the correct spot. While mountaineers may still be able to cross, there is no possibility of animals crossing as they once did, nor of traders. So, this idea of mine is now dead.

Lobsang, Jamie, Esther, David, Jim and Chanden in Manali

2022 Middle Dolpo *exploratory

We trek the Schaller Trail, a unique, pioneering route named after the noted naturalist who trekked with author of The Snow Leopard, Peter Matthiessen. Our exploratory middle Dolpo route avoids the new high country roads and finishes with the Kagmara La, only repeating a day of our previous Dolpo treks!

10 Oct-10 Nov, 32 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness — USD4880 — full
Members: Mike Farris***, Roger Nix*******, Kees Terhell******, Martin Randell, Greg Danforth***, Natasha D**, Peter M, Jim R**** & Fran*** (and Esther)
Crew: Bali Lopchan, Aiteram, Karma, Keshav, Nawang, Dawa (cook), Sonam, Gelbu, Wangchuk and Pemba
Horsemen: Sandesh, Rajesh and Subash with 15 mules

A many starred group of mostly previous trekkers ... Continuing with the perfect weather theme, we barely saw even a single cloud. However prior, a severe tropical storm (see below) had hammered the region with near record amounts of snow and so all the mountain passes were blanketed. Could we break trail to cross them?

Alas, no. The aftermath was broken roads, trails and bridges, and Bali + crew did a sterling job even getting all our gear through to meet us in Dunai. By comparison, we had an almost effortless couple of flights in. However, it was here that Jamie was struck down by dengue, possibly picked up at Besi Sahar at the end of the below trek, or in Kathmandu. I (Jamie) don't recommend trekking with dengue, or indeed contracting it.

We began our planned route up to Dho-Tarap, hoping against logic that we might still be able to cross the one crucial pass. But could we even get to the villages? There was a broken bridge that had turned around trekkers while there was rumour it was being fixed. We arrived to find a repair team in action who let us cross a couple of temporary planks and our crew energetically passed all the luggage across while the mules and mule drivers took a "can do" attitude and forced the mules to swim the fast flowing river, despite the ford being less than ideal. I'm relieved to report they all made it. 

From the villages of Dho and Tarap, we made a base camp to see if we could cross to trek the Schaller Trail but we could not even break trail to the top of the crucial pass. So, we tried our best and were satisfied that we must backtrack. So we did, back to Dunai staying at different camps, then journeyed to up, taking the scenic route eventually to Phoksundo.

The highlight has to be the side valley up the Phuphu Khola towards Shey Shikar. More to come ...

2022 Zanskar GHT: from Sarchu, we explored up a valley over a pass that lead to a trail we knew and refined, leading eventually to Chandra Tal. Zanskari horsemen said our route wasn't feasible; a shepherd wasn't sure. I was more sure from some previous exploring in the region. Given the location, this is a useful trek link route.

2019

2019 Upper Mustang & Dolpo - we further explored the area around Arniko Chuli and Jamie raced to a pass to Tibet (Flickr album), working out we don't need to do that again, they are all more or less the same up there. The "Before it's gone" aspect was seeing Chharka without the road and we realized that smaller trails are more pleasant than bulldozed but otherwise barely used motorbike and tractor roads.

2019 Markha & Dzo Jongo: we added two variations to this otherwise standard route, both wilderness camps and great for spotting wildlife.

2020 and 2021 were the covid years, Esther and I trekked in New Zealand instead.

Upper Mustang-Dolpo Wild

Epic, powerful beauty on a route few dare, we link Nepal's two trekking Shangri-las over breathless mountain passes and along meandering alpine valleys for a visual feast of gorgeous trans-Himalayan panoramas and some trademark mountaineering exploration. This is a journey through flat-roofed villages and sacred monasteries including Shyamling and Bhijer, Shey and the enchanting, oh-so-turquoise Phoksundo.

15 Sept-26 Oct, 42 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness — US$5680 — full
Team: +Bruce Utsey***, +Holly and +Brad M, +David Wright**, Mary W, Paul K***** and +Jim Twiss*
Crew: Bal Bahadur Lopchan, Aiteram, Sanjay Tamang, Dawa (Da Gelje; cook), Tashi, Ang (Phura) Kami, Pasang and Dorje
Horsemen: Bhim Bahadur Roka, Amar Bahadur Magar and Raju Rana with 2 horses and 14 incredible mules

With half a dozen deeply appreciative trekkers, we savoured Upper Mustang and Upper Dolpo spending time chatting with locals and taking in the endless vistas.

Beyond a simply incredible experience, this was a memorable farewell to Upper Dolpo's Panzang Valley as we knew it as motorbike and tractor roads are changing the region forever. The locals will certainly appreciate cheaper supplies and more variety and the trekking impact, in truth, is fairly limited. However, the contrast between walking motobike roads and some of the smaller trails was striking, and small rougher trails are much more appealing, if slower trekking.

With Lo Manthang's no climbing before the buckwheat harvest edict now nullified in Upper Mustang, we started almost two weeks earlier and so the trek was far warmer and more comfortable than previous journeys and we pitied all the late October into November trekkers heading into very cold Upper Dolpo. When debating which trek is the best in Nepal, Upper Mustang must be top of the landscapes list for its stark, raw beauty, driven home by the number of photos to sort out.

A few stats from David:
approx distance walked including group day trips: 425km
approx ascent (vertical gain, and descent is the same +300m): 17,000m !
days above 3650m/12,000ft: 31 days

Paul Krijnen has a beautifully composed set of photos on Flickr

Jamie has two albums covering the trek on Flickr:

2019 Upper Mustang 1

2019 Mustang to Dolpo 2

Sanjay, Dorje, Tashi, Bali, Dawa, Jim, Bruce, David, Mary, Brad & Holly, Paul and Jamie
(missing: Ang Kami and Pasang and the horsemen)

2018

2018 Ganesh Himal GHT - we worked out the most direct GHT route across the Ganesh region, sticking closest to the mountains, with two new routes and Jamie finished his personal Nepal GHT, finally!

Ganesh GHT

Avoiding peak season crowds, we traverse the "magical and mysterious" Ganesh Himal. In the shadow of this graceful but little-known mountain range, we explore the green middle hills, a mix of villages and wilderness and explore a high country end that avoids the usual road.

12-30 Nov, 19 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness — US$2250
Team: Gaye K**, Phil Whitwell**, and the private couple
Crew: Bal Bahadur Lopchan, Sonam, Bire Tamang, Ang Kami (Phura Kami), Sona and Kipa plus 12 porters (and young Pasang and Ngatemba for part)

Almost uniquely, there is no one established main trekking route through this region, perhaps why there is still confusion about what is the main or best route through. Indeed, we only spent half a day of the whole trek on trails mentioned in Bob and Sian's Ganesh Himal guidebook; they trekked a more roundabout route. Our trek really hammered home the fact that you are going against the grain of the land, the north-south rivers and ridges - so lots of climbs and descents.

Almost surprisingly, our trek ended up being exploratory for a couple of sections. Asking locals for the best way, for a GHT variation to avoid roads, we pioneered an alternative high and spectacular route from Keraunja to Khading (further details to come). We also explored a novel end not on any maps however still hit a new dirt road - there is no escaping them anymore ...

While we trekked under the Ganesh Himal, the stars were the Manaslu massif and the Langtang massif either side as the terrain is so steep, the full Ganesh Himal range was barely visible.

For myself, this was a particularly significant trek as I finally truly finished the whole Nepal GHT with this last section. Thank you for accompanying me.

Also, a special thank you to the porters Prem and Nima who accompanied the couple on the Tamang Heritage Trail last section.

2018 Ganesh Himal GHT: The crew with Gaye (Phil, Esther and others not shown)

2018 Upper Mustang & Dolpo - we discovered the Ghami La is not one but three passes, one now damaged the the earthquake, one for animals and one for people.

+Upper Mustang-Dolpo Wild

Powerful beauty, we combine Lo Manthang with an adventurous route to the sublime Panzang Valley traverse, completing our no compromise, deeply appreciative, trek with sacred Shey Gompa and the enchanting, oh-so-turquoise Phoksundo.

We explore the secrets of Nepal's Shangri-la, trekking where few dare through the culturally Tibetan, flat-roofed villages and sacred monasteries, along meandering alpine valleys and over breathless mountain passes, and all a visual feast of gorgeous, never-ending trans-Himalayan panoramas.

30 Sept-3 Nov, 35 days — expedition style — +Jamie McGuinness — US$5580 — full
Mugu GHT option: 30 Sept-6 Nov, 38 days — full
Team: +Nigel, Clive*** & +Catherine***, +Clive P, Jen**, Wilma & Lisa, Kees Terhell***** and Virginia Hill**
Team Mugu: +Roger Nix******
Sherpa crew: +Bal Bahadur Lopchan, +Mingmar, Lakpa Tenjee, Aiteram
Kitchen: Pemba Gombu, Bire Tamang, Dendi, Sona, Kipa, Pasang (Meme), young Pasang, Kaji and Ang Kami
Horsemen: Bhim Rokaya, Dawa, Bhim 2 and angry

Success! Our route was ambitious and challenging however everything went without a hitch.

On the Arniko Chuli massif, Jamie eyeballed a peak and it turned out to be a very satisfying, straightforward summit, first climbed by Jamie and Nigel then the next day by Roger, Catherine and Clive P, with Bali and Mingmar.

Roger and myself discovered the Ghami La is not one but three possible routes-passes, one now damaged the the earthquake, one for animals and one for people.

And what delicious meals... The kitchen crew turned out the best meals, all the more admirable in the tough conditions.

Upper Dolpo is in a state of change though, and the pristine trekking has well and truly finished with motorbike roads from the border to Tinje and onwards to Shimen and Dho, and even motorbikes in use in Chharka.

Three of my Flickr photo albums cover the trek:

2018 Upper Mustang 1

2018 Mustang to Dolpo 2

2018 Dolpo 3

The team and crew for the 35 day trek
L-R: Esther, Jamie, Lakpa, Clive C, Catherine, Wilma, Lisa, Jen, Nigel, Virginia, Kees, Dendi, Dawa, Bhim and angry
Squatting: young Pasang, Kaji, Bhim, Aiteram, Mingmar, Clive P, Gombu, Bire, Sona and Bali

2017

2017 'Kanchen Gola' - As well as returning to the the remote Ghari/Kang La, we discovered two passes near there unmarked on maps, and Jamie and Esther also solved cairn riddles to the top of the other Khang La, an alternative GHT start on the border with Sikkim.

Kanchenjunga Wild

We trek off the map to explore the wild snow leopard areas around remote Yangma then pop over the scenic Nango La to Ghunsa where we say goodbye to our kitchen crew. Then we lodge trek up to Kanchenjunga North Base Camp (still with porter support). Naturally we scramble a 6000m viewpoint and even sleep out under Jannu. From the middle hills to the remote alpine under the world's #3 peak, this is adventure+ in an area we know and love.

13 Oct-11 Nov, 30 days — hybrid expedition style & lodge trek — Jamie McGuinness — US$3980 — full
Double wild (includes south side too): 13 Oct-17 Nov, 36 days —$4280 — full
Team Wild: Greg Weston*, David Wright*, Carsten Nebel****** (and Esther)
Team Double Wild: Jim Robinson***, Celesta********, Bengt Englund***
Crew: Bali (guide), Aiteram, Mingma, Dawa 2 (cook), Sonam ...

Comparing that past experience and other treks I think the Kanchenjunga trek was the best I have done. The area above Yangma in particular was just stunning.

Greg Weston

Success! We topped out on the Kang La /(Ghari La) and found two other passes unmarked on maps. The GHT'er version (the next trek down) made it to Makalu Base Camp and Jamie with Esther made it to the alternative start point for the GHT, the Kang La on the Sikkim border.

As with our Ladakh season, the weather was not the best, although this didn't mess with our itinerary. In the low country, it was fine both on the way in and way out but in the high country it clouded over sometime in the afternoon, often with a dusting of snow. Before you blame climate change entirely, there have been occasional October-November seasons like this years ago. Sometimes, it is just luck of the draw (but likely with a bit of climate change also thrown in).

The first half of the trek was full service camping and we explored up to the Nepal-Tibet border to the Kang La. This is marked on maps as the Ghari La, however some digging by Roger found this could instead be the Ghan La, and when we asked the locals, they said the real name is simply the generic Kang La (and it must be noted the spellings by Nepali surveyors up there are tone-deaf and disinterested), which means snow mountain pass, and it certainly was that. We also found another desperate pass that is unmarked on maps but does see occasional use, and found yet another that is frequented by blue sheep (and snow leopard?), so we had some productive exploring from the Pabuk region. And those mountain views!

Returning from Yangma to where our two teams split a little before the Nango La, we saw fresh fox and snow leopard prints in the snow dusting. The GHT team returned to Walung (Olangchung Gola) in a long day, while our "Wild" teams crossed the Nango La and easily reached Ghunsa, to begin our trek switching from camping to lodges.

Roger Nix has a big Flickr album of the first half of this trek, the start to our point of the GHT separation (the trek below). Also see Carsten's Google Earth screen shot of our route.

Ghunsa was a little indoor luxury recovery, some of the team even had showers (and some didn't!). At our Khangpachen stop, Celesta, Esther and myself tented at Jannu BC instead and were treated to a chilly night, blue sheep (but no snow leopard) and that ever changing light on massive Jannu. Lhonak is still basic and on the edge for teahouse trekking and Pangpema is marginal, and having tents with us definitely helped. The views were incredible though.

On the return to Lhonak, myself and Carsten climbed the 6000m viewpoint with others turning back part of the way up. The weather wasn't good and we should have started far earlier (my bad call). In hindsight, that viewpoint shouldn't be treated as casually as I did however it is without a doubt the very best viewpoint of the region.

Sadly, Bengt had been suffering back pain for some days and no treatment or medication or time seemed to be helping so he was heli-evaced out.

Once back at Ghunsa at Himali's well set up lodge, the "Wild" team of Carsten, David and Greg headed back the quick way to Taplejung while the Double Wild team headed over Selele to the south side. Both Jim and Celesta suffered real coughing fits, which I would attribute (perhaps indirectly?) to a build up from smoky lodges, lodge hygiene and perhaps trail dust. They partially recovered in Tseram while Esther and I headed up to investigate the Khang La pass to Sikkim. It was a delightful valley and it was particularly satisfying for me to reach the top of the pass as I feel this is the best realistic start/end point for the Nepal GHT if starting/ending on the border.

Returning to the lower altitudes Yamphudin, everyone recovered somewhat, and over the journey back to Kathmandu.

Carsten has two Flickr albums, Western Valleys (Olangchung Gola-Yangma) and North Base Camp.

My curated albums are 2017 Yangma Wild, 2017 Kanchenjunga Wild and my 2017 Khang La GHT side trip.

2017 Kanch satisfaction; myself and Bali atop the 5746m Kang La pass to Tibet above Yangma - Jamie

Our wonderful, incredibly hardworking porters - the kitchen crew were fantastic too, but I don't have a photo of them together

Greg, Jim, Esther, Romany, David, Celesta, Greg, Bengt, Roger and Carsten - photo by Jamie

Kanchenjunga-Makalu GHT

Remote Yangma, Lumbasamba and Makalu Base Camp; wahoo, another 42 day special. We explore "off the map" together the the Kanchenjunga Wild team, and when they turn to teahouses, we continue with the kitchen crew along the trek routes we pioneered all the way to Makalu Base camp. High and wild authentic adventure at the best time of the year.

13 Oct-23 Nov, 42 days — expedition style — Jamie & Bali— US$4980 — full
Team: Greg Danforth***, Roger Nix***** and Romany Topsfield*****
Crew: Bali (guide), Dawa 2 (cook)

After splitting with our main group above, the "GHT" team made it without issue, but plenty of adventures along the way. It is a fairly major achievement to trek this route without getting lost as it barely used.

See Greg's photo albums and also a Greg Danforth's map of their route.

Roger Nix has two Flickr albums, here is the second half, the Lumba Samba and GHT route to Makalu BC.

2017 The Great Divide *exploratory

Our Parang La upgrade, with a 6000m scramble. This is a sublime panoramic wilderness trek in dazzling light to Kibber and Ki Gompa with our unique detour wandering where wolves and snow leopard roam. We get 6000+m high and cross a few secret passes with some trademark exploring, then back to the more usual Parang La for a cultural Spiti and Shimla-Delhi end. Adventure from start to finish!

29 Aug-23 Sept, 26 days — Leh to Delhi — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — US$3580
Team: Alan Kerr******, John Bermingham, Phil Whitwell**, Ralph Oertel, Mike Parle*, Ranjan Banerji**** (and Esther)
Crew: Lobsang, Raj, Stanzin Galden, Stanzin Kungha, Tenzin Dorje, Ram Lam, Sunoj, Tej Singh, Beli Ram, Bipin Kumar and 21 horses

Trekking is the journey, and although I worried about the relative sameness of the terrain through our desolate area, everyone else really appreciated the stark, open terrain then the variety the Parang La and the Spiti road trip provided. Exploring, we found our almost unknown 2004 pass and crossed it, and with a further link to our 2014 route, we have linked up all the possible routes in the area and have material to document the little-known passes.

Starting at Tsomoriri was a delight, especially as we skipped Korzok, and although we pushed the acclimatization, nobody had any real issues (diamox helps!). Kiangdam is a favourite campsite...

Crossing the desolate "empty quarter", I was worried about the days of similar terrain, although this was broken up by our 6000m scree slog up (Thank you Lobsang, especially, for assisting Ranjan meet his goal). The feedback was otherwise though, with the openness and the Zanskar range castles a highlight.

With few stones to trip on, we ate up distances on the smooth plains, so quite different from most other Ladakh and Zanskar areas. Although we didn't see as much wildlife as I would have liked, we did see Tibetan Argali sheep and kiang, and a fox and others. No wolves this time.

The road trip from Kibber to Shimla was an eye opener, first the incredible terrain of Spiti, driving along an old trading route and passing through ancient villages that have had road access for decades. Then, closer to Shimla, the development, the HUGE hydro projects, and the holiday hill stations overrun by domestic tourism, including Shimla itself. The toy train and a further train to Delhi rounded out the whole experience.

back in Sydney safe n sound, a few kilos lighter and well and happy
thanks for the excellent trekking experience
while the smooth running was evident on the trek, looking back on my holiday snaps I really appreciate the spaces and places that we visited.

hope to join you again ...

- Mike

Mike, Esther, John, Phil, Ranjan, Ralph and Alan

Some of the star crew: Stanzin Kungha, Raj, Stanzin Galden, Dorje and Lobsang - missing the horse tea

Ladakh Skypacking 6k

Trails less trekked... Backpacking is trekking, carrying all your own gear and camping out in the most amazing Ladakh wilderness camps, but with the satisfaction of still helping the local economy. We share the tricks and neat itineraries that ease in the rigours, and luxe out at our resupply breaks, every detail perfectly planned for a satisfying trek with minimal preparation time. You bring your personal gear, we provide the tent, stove, fuel and supplies for you to carry!

18 July-8 Aug, 22 days — Leh to Leh — backpacking — Jamie McGuinness
Team: Tomi Pfeiffer and Lesa Muir (and Esther)
Crew: Lobsang (resupply cook) and Pasang (Tata Sumo driver)

Trails less trekked... For the first two sections these were exploratory and we didn't meet another trekker, indeed only one bemused shepherd. It was ambitious to explore on our very first true backpacking trip, however we did and we discovered two passes unmarked on the Olizane map, the first by accident!

On the third section although we crossed paths of a few trekkers, we didn't meet them; kiang were in abundance though. It was only on the fourth section, as we approacched the Markha, that we began to meet trekkers, and brimming campsites showed why we take the lesser trekked routes. Our last camp also demonstrated our relatively luxe way of trekking, meeting two backpacking couples carrying 13 and 18 days supplies - we never carried more than five days, and that was certainly not light (although was not heavy, thankfully)...

Our first two sections were tough, with longer days but perfectly graded sleeping altitudes as we built up acclimatization. After a day's rest at Tso Kar (where Jen from the previous trek also popped in), with Lobsang expertly filling our bellies, we peaked out at over 6000m a couple of times, particularly satisfying as these were personal bests for Tomie and Lesa (who can be especially proud as a cancer survivor as she has a few bits of lung missing!). The weather was sometimes not very pleasant, at least once we had camp set up, but didn't upset our itinerary.

This was also a surprisingly good wildlife trek. Dozens of kiang, curious domestic yaks slipping by our camps, marmots, curious and shy pikas and voles. Those are the usual, but we also saw the rarely seen, an owl during daytime, two wolves with their tails between their legs, perhaps we scared them while they were hunting blue sheep, which we spotted a moment later. We also watched relatively immature white-neck feather vultures (Himalayan Griffons) feeding on a marmot, a real highlight for Esther and Jamie.

The group wildlife highlight had to be our Nat Geo lunch spectacle of two kiang going at each other, hard out racing each other until we were breathless just watching, then a neck-biting finale still right in front of us, and all while we simply ate lunch.

It was also a trek of variety, each section wildly different scenery and character from the last, covering all of the main trekking zones, much appreciated by all.

On the supplies side, Lesa and Tomie showed how good home-dried meals can be, showing up what was available in Leh, which isn't much. We have some work to do there.

See my 2017 Ladakh Skypacking 6k Flickr album.

Lesa, Tomie and Esther - photo by Jamie

2016

2016 Upper Dolpo & Mu La - getting to Bhijer wasn't as hard as we expected (even as late as 2016, it wasn't sure that we could get horses around Bhijer), and we finished our Mu La exploration from 2014, crossing this last somewhat enigmatic pass in front the Dhaulagiris.

The Kiwi team and Jamie with Sangge left, and Ngima on the right

Upper Dolpo Magic

Powerful beauty. Which is the best trek in Nepal? Our sublime Upper Dolpo trek to Mustang probably!

We explore the secrets of Nepal's Shangri-la, trekking where few dare, through the culturally Tibetan villages and sacred monasteries, along meandering alpine valleys and over breathless mountain passes, and all a visual feast of gorgeous, never-ending trans-Himalayan panoramas.

27 Sept-27 Oct, 31 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness — US$5280 — full
Mu La exploration: 27 Sept-31 Oct, 35 days
Team: Alan L, Denise A, Louise A, Pat, Alan and Phil*, Paul K****, Jim** and Fran*, Ole E** (and Esther)
Crew: Bali (sirdar), Mingma, Aiteram, Saribung Kaji, Tawa (cook), Tashi (cook), Dawa, Nawang, Pasang, Kipa, Dawa and 15 porters and 14 horses-mules

Well, so much for the monsoon ending in late September, it lingered for almost two weeks longer; at least our domestic flights (and the Upper Dolpo to Mustang team above) dodged the clouds and were on time. The dampness with occasional night rain provided "Chinese landscapes", Paul mentioned,and the moodiness was beautifully picturesque. Once the skies finally cleared, it remained fine and somewhat windy for the entire rest of the trek, not a cloud in the sky, and day after day and the Dolpo landscapes shined with that clarity of light. The sublime panoramas, last century self-sufficent villages with their tough but smiling inhabitants and the wonderful camping spots still make this one of the very best treks in Nepal.

It was also a trip of less usual medical issues, and thanks in particular to Fran and Esther for wound dressing and care for the members, and Mingma for the crew. Sadly Alan suffered some medical complications that we were not able to diagnose in the field and had to be evacuated, and Denise's list of issues just seemed to grow longer despite following good treatment practice. It was a shame to see them heli-evac'ed out, especially as they both desperately wanted to stay and continue, Denise's facination with Bon was an inspiration and education for us. There were also a surprising number of scrapes and bruises, and thank goodness the huge Tibetan mastiff only took a nip at Phil, rather than a chunk (perhaps the less than youthful leg was a bit tough?!) and a horse bite wasn't perhaps undeserved either, they were loaded up, working double time in the beginning. Yep, Dolpo logistics are challenging.

The exploration was a total success, we crossed and recrossed the ~5700m Mu La, to staggering views of Dhaulagiri II and other peaks and can confirm that the pass is marked wrongly on most maps (as is the pass out of Bhijer) and that the Mukot/Mukut locals can indeed take their children by horse over the pass, although that says more about the stocky, longhaired Tibetan ponies than the gentleness of trail. In fact we crossed no less than 8x 5000m passes on this trek, a great effort by the porters. And no trip is complete without thanking the hard-working kitchen crew and sherpas, who handled dividing the gear and crew between the longer and shorter versions of the trip with aplomb. Thank you everyone!

Jamie's Dolpo Magic Flickr album

Jamie's Mu La Flickr album

Paul Krijnen's photos on Google Photos

Ladakh Peaks, Passes & Lakes *exploratory

Combined with the wonderful trek above as a warm up, we continue into ever more remote and dramatic areas, crossing a gloriously scenic old resupply pass and exploring its secrets, only partially revealed last year. We then pick up the high Rumtse to Tso Kar (salt lake) trail, with more trademark exploratory days in this big sky country, completing our comprehensive Markha to Changtang route.

23 July-20 Aug, 29 days — Leh to Leh — expedition style — +++++Jamie McGuinness — US$3180
Team: ++Romany Topsfield**** and +++Abhishek Deepak** with the start combined above
Crew: +Lobsang, Raj (cook), Ram Lal & Sunoj and 10 horses

Wow, what wildlife! We found and crossed that old 5865m supply pass with glorious views and after seeing the beauty of the other side, hung around by the bluest of lakes rather than moving on too quickly, and found plenty of "viewpoints". Yes, our exploratory treks are still exploring, really, truly exploring. The area is an absolute delight with wolves, foxes, many kiang and snorting yaks, and those grassy valleys and plains. And mountains and more glorious mountains. We will return!

The second extension turned into Rumtse to Pang, with some wildlife and exploring. The first section (Rumtse to Tso Kar), while a good trek, shows why we trek remote and wild instead, with busy camps and lots of visual rubbish. At Tso Kar we photographed the bird life and wildlife, then explored the little-used Barma La to the Pang area. We have now crossed all four of the main passes across the Mentok range, but have yet to make the mistake of crossing the false Lanyar La, ie the wrong trail marked on the Olizane map. We are probably the only team that knows all these four passes, and what they are best for.

The second part of the trek was fantastic. We didn't see another person (trekker or local) for 9 days. The scenery was stunning and wildlife plentiful (Kiang, argali, hares, wolves and a weasel)...

Romany Topsfield

And my first exploratory section Flickr photo album:

And the last part with just Abhishek:

Lobsang, Romany, Abhishek, Raj, Ram Lal, Sunoj and Jamie

2015

2015 GHT Wild West - we straightened the last section from Darchula to Simikot, and successfully explored the Simikot-Mugu high route, a first, and a route that is unlikely to ever be repeated.

These were our first treks after the 2015 eathquake.

GHT Mugu Wild *exploratory

More wonderful high route GHT exploration, we find an alternative high route from Simikot through to historic Mugu village. It is a remote route, through little-visited villages, peaceful high altitude yak grazing areas and with expansive mountain panoramas. And real exploration!

28 Oct-20 Nov, 24 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness — US$2980
Team: Kees T****, Roger Nix****, Gaye K**, Romany Topsfield***, Paul Murrill**********, Ryan and Apurna
Crew: Bali (Bal Bahadur), Saribung Kaji, Indra and Aiteram (sherpas), Tawa (cook) Pirkey Tamang, Pasang Shiny Pots Tamang, Tashi and the acrobatic Makalu lads Phu Tenzi and Lhakpa (kitchen), Kami Tamang as porter cook and 23 strong porters

Those elusive passes of 2012 eluded us no longer, although partly by a dose of good luck, and plenty of amazing weather. We found the way across the "Okhale Lek" with local guides into an enchanted valley with chest high grass and ancient forests, with only the tiniest of a hunter's trail, and are likely the very first western trekkers to cross this pass. Continuing we were blessed with mostly wide, easy trails, quiet forests, many tranquil camps and fine trekking, although still real exploring as locals were scared of the snow and cold so we had to work out our own routes over a series of passes.

Part of our route now becomes an adventurous alternative to the straightforward Simikot to Rara trek, and this is timely as the government has announced and started building a road from Gamgadhi to Mugu and the Tibet border, which will be no fun to walk along as part of the GHT. Instead some of the route we just explored will make a good alternative. There is an online guide slowly on the way.

Sadly Paul, after getting to the top of an extremely tough pass without incident, sat on a rock that moved, and put a bit of a hole in his head, and although wanted to trek on, was heli-evaced with infection starting to show; thank you, Romany, for being an excellent doctor. Thankfully, he has already mostly recovered and will be back.

What a memorable trek, thank you everyone for joining, and I really hope to see you in the future!

Jamie's GHT2 Mugu Wild Flickr album

See Roger Nix's blogspot summary of the the trek.

Roger Nix's Flickr album

The foreign part of the team: Gaye, Roger, Romany, Jamie, Ryan and Apurna, and Kees: missing Paul Murrill
Dinner in a Kimri school classroom, note no lights (we used ours) and only wooden benches, shamefully ultra-basic...

2015 GHT Wild West *exploratory

Wahoo, what an adventure! In 2012 we were the very first to complete the Saipal missing link, but over some heinous passes. This time we refine our route with kinder passes to truly open up this new section of the Nepal Great Himalaya Trail. It is authentic culture, a stunning variety of scenery and real exploration in four weeks.

4-31 Oct, 28 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness and Bali — US$4980
Team: Alan Kerr*****, Celesta*******, Marco C, Roger Nix***, Jim Robinson*, Greg Danforth** (-Leslie B, -Shaun C)
Crew: Bali (Bal Bahadur), Saribung Kaji, Indra and Aiteram (sherpas), Tawa (cook) Pirkey Tamang, Pasang Shiny Pots Tamang, Tashi and the acrobatic Makalu lads Phu Tenzi and Lhakpa (kitchen), Kami Tamang as porter cook and 24-26 strong porters

Success! We found the main missing pass, the Zimgang La, and had an incredible time, too. Thank you all for joining.

So the high route/extreme route Nepal Great Himalaya Trail has a new and the last extension, and instead of ending in Simikot now ends at Darchula (or similar), as it should. From start to finish we didn't meet another trekking group, and indeed Project Himalaya has trekked this route twice now, and nobody else has - yet. The new GHT maps will reflect this route, eventually (and now do).

This is the toughest trek in the world. Really ... ! (Excluding treks requiring ropes and/or crampons etc).

Roger Nix's blog with a route guide to the trek

Roger Nix's Flickr photos

Greg Danforth's photos

Jamie's curated Flickr album below with embeded controls:

The trekkers: Alan Kerr, Marco Camozzi, Jamie McGuinness, Jim Robinson, Greg Danforth, Roger Nix and Celesta Fong
There were also 10 core crew and 24 porters ...

Ladakh Peaks & Passes *

The Markha Valley is a classic Ladakh trek and naturally we climb in the Nyimaling area but there is so much more to the region. Crossing into a surprisingly wild and stunningly scenic area right next door, we succumb to the temptation of exploring an old resupply pass and a peak that has fascinated Jamie for a few years.

18 June-12 July, 25 days — Leh to Leh — expedition style — +Jamie McGuinness — US$2680
Crew: Phuntsok, Bishnu Tamang, Tsewang Gyalson and 7 horses
Team: +Phil Robinson

* This trek-climb replaced the Zanskar Traverse that wasn't possible because of damaged bridges.

During winter a landslide partially blocked the Tsarap River above Phuktal Gompa (affecting our Chadar expedition at the bottom of the page too) and finally that dam broke in May without loss of life thanks to Indian Army intervention but the event still broke virtually every bridge downstream and so affecting all Zanskar treks. So this trek went from 4-5 bookings back to just one, sadly, and I elected to still run it and change the itinerary to the Ladakh Peaks & Passes. I'm glad that I did.

What wildlife! We really saw it all apart from a snow leopard, even if we did see prints of one. So we saw and photographed wolves, marmots, blue sheep who put on a number of extraordinary shows, Tibetan argali, pikas, golden eagles, lammergeiers and more, and a surprising owl even.

We also climbed Dzo Jongo East (6218m) and were almost shocked off in a sudden hail storm. Of course Jamie is an itinerant explorer and we climbed no less than three passes not on the Olizane centre map, although in deference to our Ladakhi horses, we didn't actually cross the 5865m pass as this might have been too much for a couple of them (they have a tough winter leaving them not as strong as their Himachal brothers. I was wishing for Ram Lal's superb strong horse-mule team, but we were not a big enough team for his 17 horses).

Thanks for Phil for enabling the trip (even if it ran at a loss, it was worth it) and thanks to Phuntsok and crew for those delicious Asian meals and wonderful service. I can't wait to return!

Phil says "Great trip, I have lots of photos to sort out!"

See my Flickr album and note it was a period of unusual flooding in Leh and parts of Ladakh:

2015 Markha Peaks & Passes

Back seat: Phil, Bishnu and Phuntsok, with Jamie in the front - Jamie

2014

2014 GHT Mu La exploration - we investigated Lower Dolpo's Mu La as a GHT alternative but were snowed out by Cyclone Hudhud resulting in another adventure.

Dolpo Mu La exploration

All change; with some cancellations, Alan had a great new idea and so we go exploring in Dolpo over a little-known 5700m pass that keeps us in Lower Dolpo despite the fact we finish in Jomsom...

25 Sept-25 Oct, 31 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness -- US$3980
Team: Alan Kerr****, Andy McD***
Crew: Pasang Gyelu, young Mingma, Nima Holmo, Lhakpa and seven porters

There is a first for everything; the first time in over 100 treks I have evacuated a trek team. Thank you, Alan's insurance company (Snow Card). That was Alan and Pasang out, then with some wizardry from the team in Kathmandu and Lhakpa in Chharka, and with the unknowing assistance of a trek team who had already had multiple evacs BEFORE the storm, we managed to pull out the crew too, even all the trek gear, "rescued". It was in reaction to Cyclone Hudhud, of course, and sad to say that the trek crew of a small group only a day or two ahead of us died.

See my thoughts on the sad and unnecessary Hudhud storm disaster.

Cutting again to the chase, our exploration found that the 5700m Mu La is a perfect pass for GHTer's who want to avoid the $500 Upper Dolpo fee. This is despite the fact we couldn't cross the pass due to Hudhud. The pass is not named on any maps yet is suitable for mules, local 5 year olds and grannies according to the locals. We will head back to explore-cross it for real, and climb a peak nearby, get in touch if interested (and did in 2016, with success).

Now the detail. It was a bit of a boyz trek, with Andy's perky "that's what she said," something that I used to play on too, and Alan's Viz Magnafartlet for some evening chuckles. Not to mention copious quantities of the real thing, I am surprised the dining tent didn't take off sometimes.

Given that this was the second itinerary change, and starting during the biggest festival of the year, I kept logistics simple with a driving start and a middle trek in to the high country before heading off the beaten track. Yes, we dripped with sweat occasionally but the green rice paddies and the simple hospitality of remote villages were rewards, even if our views of the big peaks in the first section were mostly obscured.

This middle hills start was a good reminder about how treks are changing with rough vehicle tracks and mule trails pushing in. There are now few middle hills trek starts that start cleanly at a true roadhead. First the road to Darbang was broken so luckily we were able to trek on the other side of the river but later walked along road sections of in various states of driveability for a couple of days. This could have been arduous but wasn't in this case. Second, with trails upgraded (partly by USAID food security) there are now many routes, including most Dolpo treks, that are suitable for mules-ponies, and the age of the heavily burdened porter is fading, even though there is still massive unemployment in the hills.

The middle hills were a delight, almost always shelter nearby when the monsoon let us know it wasn't quite finished, but also brutal. The Darbang-Dolpo route is up and down and up and down and the route not particularly clear, with trails at variance with the maps and even the locals not always giving the best trail advice, surprisingly. We took some shortcuts, and didn't find a couple until too late; extra views!

Dropping in to Tarakot, Lower Dolpo, the hillsides grew to jawdropping scale and a rough dustiness typical of the region. It was only several more days up, once beyond Kakkot, that it seemed less hard work. Terang and Mukot (Mukkutgaon) villages were a delight. From remote Mukot we were leaving villages behind and with the porters loaded up with extra supplies we headed out. A sat phone message from Richard predicted snow and with ugly clouds coming from the wrong direction, I checked for exact info from Esther in Singapore. The forecast was over a metre of snow at Dhaulagiri BC and we were right behind the huge Dhaulagiri II. With that we packed up immediately and headed down. Lhakpa and Mingma, out exploring further up the valley for our next camp returned to two packed loads only and "down" scribbled on a rock, a bit of a surprise for them.

And it snowed, turning to rain and wind later. Andy's tent blew away as the pegs didn't hold in the mud, and his kitbag was lighter than any previously (very porter-friendly!) but luckily although a few terraces away, no harm done, indeed everything still dry. Although the snow cleared quickly on the sun-facing slopes above us, we were dubious about shaded slopes, and were not equipped with mountaineering boots. While we could handle patches of snow, breaking trail in deep snow and camping on snow for days were beyond us. So instead of heading down on the trail we had just come up, we continued to Chharka hoping-thinking that the sunny sides of the valleys the high trail is on would clear quickly, and expecting that the snow would be lighter up there in the Dolpo rain shadow, plus in the days it would take to trek up, somebody would surely punch a trail through and open the gates.

Ha. That didn't happen. The snow was deep and the first local attempt didn't get far, neither was there much optimism and with the knowledge that the trekking group a day ahead of us at Mukot had died we rethought options (it turned out the crew died, perhaps not the trekkers?). At least Kim and her team turned up in Chharka and there was a friendly Tibetan-style teahouse with cheap Lhasa beer.

We now faced perhaps a week backtracking, and with even pushing it, the timeframe wasn't realistic for Alan. Andy turned white and hopped in a kitbag of the multiple trekkers being heli-evac'ed out. I had, for the first time, a slightly swollen tendon from getting my foot caught in between rocks on the trail, and while could trek fine, knew the injury wasn't going to get better until rested. So I couldn't break trail for days through snow. The porters, even though they would get paid, didn't exactly relish the 10+ days it would take them.

Although everyone said just fake an injury, Alan talked with his insurance and simply told the truth (which is my way too), and came through with an OK to save him being late for work and missing international flights. Nobody seemed interested in arranging sharing helicopters or part way hops and once the go ahead was given, despite the fact it clearly wasn't a medical emergency, suddenly Alan and Pasang were gone with minimal notice. His verdict, the snow on the passes was worse than we thought, not a hope. I am not totally sure what happened next, but almost as suddenly there was "rescue" action (strings pulled?) and we were out of there too, positive statistics luckily; thanks friends!

Exploring the Great Divide

A glorious wilderness trek exploring from famed Tsomoriri across the lower Zanskar range and Himalayan range, over known and unknown passes, and we will find that elusive peak - and kiang, wolves, foxes and more.

24 Aug-19 Sept, 27 days — Leh to Leh (Leh-Manali option) — expedition style — +Jamie McGuinness — US$2980
Short: 24 Aug-13 Sept, 21 days — US$2680 — full
Team: +Len Glassner***, +Demet** & +Luca*, +David K*****, +Tod B, +Jussi & +Helena, +Arabella S****
Crew: +Lobsang, Phuntsok, Ram Lal, Yamphel, Nawang, Sonam, Roshan, Bridge Lal and Beli Ram and 23 horses

Again, what a trek and will live on in great memories for a long time. Satisfying 100% peak success, and personal best altitudes for all the team (except Arabella) and some serious exploratory adventure. We did get to that elusive peak and explored the particularly wild end of the Zanskar range, utterly huge, high valleys; only a single night lower than 4500m on the whole trek!

It is definitely an area with secrets and little water - knowing the springs is critical (only one 6pm trek). Leaving that vast system behind, we successfully crossed the Pangpo La (another group failed this year, and that is probably the sum total that tried), and what an incredible route, with several spots looking less than likely but gloriously photogenic. My personal aim was to find another way over what is written as the Great Himalayan range, but in reality is an in between range, perhaps best called the transition Himalaya. In the event we found several routes, a forgotten pass (5252m) and another disused pass to the high plateau with a rough route to the Baralacha La (Paralatse La) region - and those peaks to the east - they were the real Himalaya. Jussi and Helena were so taken, they continued to Chandra Tal.

With the knowledge gained, we now know we have two more possible routes across that transition Himalaya, which we will explore next year or two, so probably "CROSSING the Great Divide" rather than "Exploring the Great Divide". At a guess I would think one of those will be the best trekking route across the region to link the Tso Moriri-Mentoks area with Spiti and the Great Himalayan Range. Let's see!

In part it was such a delightful trek because of the company - thank you everyone for joining - and also because of the star crew. Lobsang kept everything running smoothly (and those comfortable outdoor chairs) while Phuntsok and Yamphel turned out delicious meal after delicious, nutritious meal. Ram Lal and the other horsemen were utterly professional, never losing mules-ponies (if you have trekked in Ladakh you will realize how rare that is) and taking their (lightly loaded) animals on some rather rough trails near the end. All in all, a wonderful Ladakh season.

Most people made a photo album of the trip, you are spoilt for choice:

Jamie's 2014 Great Divide Flickr album

David Koelle's Flickr pix, including his bike trip afterwards

Luca's Flickr album, including compelling wide shots

Tod's Flickr album snapshots

Len's Smugmug album Len didn't seem to take a lot of shots, but he really nails the vast wilderness

Jussi's album - proving what a good photographer he is

Back from holidays I was 2kg heavier but 2,2% leaner! great job of the chefs! and allowed me to have a great time in my first trail run..34km with 1400m of positive elevation gain during the track..easy after our trek in India!
Miss the mountains and the good time.

- Luca

The Great Divide team atop the remote Pangpo La, a real achievement.
Lobsang, Luca, Tod (hidden) Demet, David, Arabella, Len, Helena, Jussi and Jamie

2013

2013 GHT Tilman's and Tashi Labtsa Wild - we found the hard way the map+guide book are wrong on Tilman's; and had great conditions for the Tashi Labtsa.

GHT: Tilman's & Tashi Labtsa Wild

Another 42 day special, a quarter of the Nepal GHT. Langtang to the Rolwaling and Khumbu, delightfully cultural with some serious, high passes. What are you waiting for?

21 Oct-1 Dec, 42 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness -- US$4980
Tilman's: 21 Oct-8 Nov, 19 days — US$2480 — full
Team: Esther****, Ole, Henning, John - and Tom and Emma
Crew: Dawa (sirdar), Samden (climbing sherpa), Wangchu & Aiteram (sherpa), Kami (cook), Pasang "shiny pots", Pirkay, Dhirendra (kitchenhands), Dawa (porter cook), Lhakpa (porter leader) and 22 porters

Tashi Labtsa: 6 Nov-1 Dec, 26 days — US$2980
Team: Paul******, Celesta******, David Lue (Tom and Emma switched to the above)
Crew: Pasang Gombu (sirdar), Samden (climbing sherpa), Tawa (cook), Pasang "shiny pots", Pirkay, Dhirendra (kitchenhands)
Lhakpa (porter leader) and 11 star porters

In case you didn't already know, Tilman's Pass and the Tashi Labtsa are serious mountaineering passes and, together with Paul and Celesta, having crossed all of the "high" route GHT passes we can say definitively it is definitely better labelled the "Extreme" route. We were certainly reminded of that. Luckily for Tilman's snow conditions were good, the weather perfect and the crew competent, and the 300+m of rope was almost enough. Surprisingly it wasn't the pass that gave us grief, but route-finding after Panch Pokhari. The Extreme GHT route goes to The Last Resort, rather than the more popular route down, and we got lost with an steep bush bash with a bit of bamboo abseiling to get down to the bottom of a valley. With unclear directions and a wrong map and guide book, it turned epic as we descended down on a non-existent trail, our very first midnight trek. I saw the eyes of a bear and thank goodness nobody was injured over the ridiculous terrain, even if Paul did fall off the first bridge (!). Thanks also to Dhirendra and Lhakpa, especially, for superstar efforts.

The adventures continued with another afternoon getting lost session. Somehow all 40 of us missed the main trail, if there was one, and we couldn't find a guide on the main day of Dasain (the biggest holiday of the year). So we camped in a kharka to the surprise of the crone there then found a good trail the next morning. We still arrived for our rest at the Last Resort on schedule.

It was a pity our plan of using the staff who would have crossed with Philippe Gatta (running the GHT) didn't work due to ex-cyclone Phailin and the huge dump of snow. But this is Nepal, and this is the extreme route...

Sadly Ole, Henning, John and Esther had to leave, and Tom and Emma also bailed, finding the trekking tough and emotionally tough but wouldn't you know, it suddenly got easier. Our bridging section between The Last Resort and Jagat was a series of comfortable half days, and even the day we did two days in one was easy enough.

From Jagat we decided to take the more adventurous and more scenic upper route, avoiding the road, and had three pleasant camps before Beding. Instead of spending two nights there, we spent three at Na, the sun lasts much longer. After dropping loads higher, the porters returned (only three days back to their village!) and the sherpas and kitchen crew humped big loads. Luckily the trail was in surprisingly good condition and the weather - PERFECT, for weeks on end. We ended up crossing a few days early and Paul and David lounged around, luxuriating in Namche. Celesta had other ideas though and we slept on top of the Renjo La (yes, to everyone's surprise, on the very top, no tent) for a wonderful moonrise (ummm, having missed the sunset) and also on the very top of Gokyo Ri, where we did catch sunset and sunrise.

Congratulations - basically Paul, Celesta and Jamie have trekked the entire GHT Nepal section extreme route!

Second row: Dawa (porter cook), Esther Tan, Tom, John, Ole, Paul
Third row: Emma, Henning, Celesta, Aiteram, Samden, Pasang
Sitting: Dawa Gelje, a porter, Jamie, Mingma Lhakpa
Missing, minding the camp: Kami (cook), Dhirendra

Tawa, Jamie, David, Celesta and Paul recovering in Namche - Jamie

Upper Mustang Peaks *exploratory

Stunning! We are opening up new trekking peaks, one at a time. Be part of the fun as we trek through the most gorgeous, sculpted rock panoramas and remarkable ancient gompas, and climb a hopefully straightforward 6000m peak or two, real peak exploring.

22 Apr-19 May, 28 days — expedition style and tea-house trekking — Jamie McGuinness — US$3980
Team: Sole LT**, Helena Swinkels, Mick Le P
Crew: Karma (local guide), Rakesh (horseman), Nima (cook), Pasang Tamang and Jangbu (kitchen), Lhakpa (extra with the horses)

See Jamie's Flickr photo album 2013 Upper Mustang Exploration.

I felt like we were deciphering a treasure map so exploring around Upper Mustang turned out to be a frustrating experience for some, but fun for others. Essentially we could not easily get to the peak, and on a backup area we bailed just as it started to get interesting (or frustrating, depending on your point of view). We have added a few more trails to the maps (literally) to an area that is surprisingly under-explored, at the very least.

In detail, first we trekked the Tiri high route via Tshumpag to Samar which was physically tough and had one tricky section for the mules, Karma and Rakesh has to rebuild a section of the trail. Acclimatization on this quick jaunt to ~3800m will likely also be an issue for some trekkers, although wasn’t for us. After a series of pleasant camps and lodges we explored Lo Manthang then the exploration began.

We found the legendary Cho Dzong Gompa, and what a trek there, too, and was a real highlight of the trek. The gompa is in a sad state though.

Heading to Gaugiri we found trails not on the map but also multiple difficulties. We could have risked taking the mules through a canyon still filled with spring ice but above was a 5700m pass, definitely not possible for the mules and might have been a challenge for a couple of members. The mules would have had to cross into Tibet and back again, something we didn't want to risk, and finally our exit was still rumoured to be blocked with snow, as indeed it was, we found later, so rerouting was the best option.

The eastern side of the Kali Gandaki is rough camping with little water and plenty of up and down between its altitude range. We spied another area worthy of exploration but closer up a couple of wrong turns disheartened people and we turned back, to have 3 days perfect weather. Another highlight of the trip though, was the semi-fabled section from Tangge to Chhusang, one of the most beautiful day’s trekking in the Himalaya...

2012

2012 GHT Wild West exploration - Major; we broke trail to be the first trekkers ever to trek Darchula to Simikot between Api and Saipal, staying completely in Nepal ... !

GHT Wild West *exploratory

The missing link, we aim to be the first to complete the route north of Saipal that has eluded even hardcore GHT trekkers, hopefully solving one trail mystery. Real exploration in a month, or join for a continuing bout of exploration as we find a new way all the way to Mugu on our 10th (!) 42 day exploratory trek, and is a quarter of the Nepal GHT.

20 Sept-20 Oct, 31 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness -- US$3980* — full
Team Simikot: Peter Sih*******, Arabella***, Jeff S**** and Bengt E**
Team Jumla: Paul Murrill*****, LeeAnn**
Crew: Bali (sirdar), Tawa (cook), Kaji and Aiteram (sherpas), Pasang shiny pots, Nima (Kaji's brother), Pasang... (kitchen hands) and 17 tough porters

Wow, we were the VERY FIRST trekkers to successfully traverse from Darchula to Simikot, staying in Nepal!

Currently the Great Himalaya Trail (GHT) Nepal section fancifully heads to Simikot and Kailash then back into India, which isn't going to be possible any time soon. There should be a way though, to traverse from Simikot to Darchula, staying high amid the mountains. Several sets of friends failed to find a route, some multiple times, due to weather or ending up in Tibet. Locals don't traverse the area, at least not in entirety, so what we accomplished really was a real exploration first - and it felt like it!

Darchula to Ghajir was surprisingly enjoyable, sometimes sweaty trekking, but steep, green and scenic country. From Ghajir to Simikot ended up being 12+ days without villages (a record in Nepal?), and through wild country with delightful remote area camping. Without local guides for part of it, we found the route but there are a couple of passes where, after looking back, there are less difficult ways through.

A huge thanks to the superhero porters and to the all star crew, and second to the team and especially to Jeff and Peter who soldiered on with blisters and a broken finger. It will be a trek that lingers in everyone's memories :)

See Jamie's Flickr album 2012 GHT Wild West.

Peter, Jamie, Jeff, Arabella, LeeAnn, Bengt, Kaji, Aiteram, Tawa and Paul - Jamie

GHT Mugu Wild *exploratory

More wonderful high route GHT exploration, we find an alternative high route from Simikot through to historic Mugu village. It is a remote route, through little-visited villages, peaceful high altitude yak grazing areas and with expansive mountain panoramas. And real exploration!

GHT Double Wild West: 20 Sept-3 Nov Oct, 45 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness — US$5500*
Team: Paul Murrill*****, LeeAnn**

More exploratory adventures!

Paul, LeeAnn and I continued with the crew to break trail from Simikot to Mugu. Despite asking the locals, route-finding turned rather interesting when we got to the top of a pass and couldn't find the correct way down, and in retrospect, we were perhaps lucky we didn't as it didn't look too good when we traversed the area again in 2015.

So, we descended, meeting a good small trail that simply kept taking us further away from our goal. Imagine our surprise when we descended into the first village and they implored us to stay for tea and have a look around - we were the first ever trekkers/foreigners to visit them!

Feeling the burn of the long trek, we took an easier route to Gamghadi, with a detour to ask Nepka locals where we might have gone wrong for our 2015 trek. Then we trekked around Rara Lake and were perhaps the last trekkers to walk from there to Jumla; the road opened a few days later. There is an album on Flickr.

GHT Kanji Canyons *exploratory

We revel in the canyons, gorges, formations and high passes of the stunningly colourful Zanskar range and check out an alternative route for the India Great Himalaya Trail.

21 Aug-9 Sept, 20 days — expedition style — Leh-Leh — Jamie McGuinness -- US$2680
Team: Esther, Sophie G
Crew: Lobsang (sirdar-cook), Tenzin (general help), Rithar (Sitar: horseman) and seven horses

Can we do the whole trek again?! And a big thanks to Sophie who sacrificed plenty to join and who said:

"Firstly, thank you so much for an amazing, unforgettable trip. What a truly extraordinary part of the world. I am typing outside, coffee in hand, despite pretty horrible weather (rain threatening); it just doesn't feel right being indoors... Anyway, I sincerely appreciate all that you did. Really, thank you."

The more I reflect upon this exploratory trekking journey, the more I realise its truly an adventure of a lifetime to be out there in the wilderness, and armed only with what local knowledge we can glean to get us through the routes. There are so many adventurous memories of this trekking experience to be imprinted into my mind to last me my lifetime!!

- Esther

L-R: Jamie, Sitar (Rithar), Lobsang, Sophie, Esther, Tenzin and our six horses plus the tough mule

Changthang Peaks *exploratory

New temptations and real exploration! We explore remote Rong and Changthang, a newly opened area and bag some newly opened non-technical 6000m peaks too, and all in three weeks.

29 July-17 Aug, 20 days — expedition style — Leh-Leh — Jamie McGuinness -- US$2680
Team: Jamie Acutt, Fiona and Trevor, Murray Rudd, Ryuseki x4
Crew: Lobsang (sirdar), Dorje, Rithar and Paljor (horsemen) with 17 or so horses, Chanden (cook), Hira and Sitaram as kitchen hands

Exploring! We were the first group this year of a handful in the last couple the locals had seen, and we could have been the first foreigners ever to cross the 5850m Gongma La, but bailed on this with some altitude issues, despite a reasonably cautious ascent. Instead we took the lower Yongma La at 5600m, so the region really is very high. It was a trip of surprisingly grassy camp sites, surprise nomad camps and the horses finished healthier than they started, and with one extra, a surprise foal born at 5180m (in addition to the 2 other foals that trekked with us from the start). Many surprises.

We also explored a couple of shapely mountains and further bumps on the ridges and eyed quite a few more too. Quail Peak is so named because Trevor invaded a pair's space at over 5900m. It is a region with lots more potential, providing you can handle the altitude. Did we find an alternative to Stok Kangri? Unfortunately permitting is the issue so further investigation-exploration might be required.

Chanden cooked up a storm (with Hira and Sitaram in assistance) and Lobsang ably handled everything, including Ryuseki's team within a team. Sadly Murray had to finish the trek early with the slow onset of AMS.

2011

2011 GHT Dolpo Wild exploration - we were the first commercial trek team across the Lakyap/Kekyap passes (thank you, Paulo Grobel), rerouted the GHT near Bhijer saving a 5368m pass crossing and crossed the tough high route between Dolpo and Mugu without incident.

(Peter Aufschnaiter of Seven/Eight Years in Tibet fame, trekked this route in reverse in 1965 and so did Paulo Grobel, in 2010? much to the annoyance of the locals too.)

GHT Dolpo Wild *exploratory

As wild and exploratory as it gets; Upper Mustang and across Dolpo via a new route with a 6000m peak scramble thrown in!

25 Sept-5 Nov, 42 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness -- US$5550 — full
Team: Celesta*****, Paul Murrill****, Kees Terhell****, Lori C*, Lindsay Petrie, Renee G (and Helen G)
Crew: Bali Lopchan, Nawang Geden, Da'Kusang, Pasang Gyelu (cook), Kaji, Pasang Meme and 15 superhuman, superstar porters

Delightfully heinous! What a great trip! A BIG thank you to everyone for making it so successful and fun. So how did we end up all sleeping outside on a small island in a river? And why that second word?

First, a little intro. Ambitiously we set out to walk a quarter of the Great Himalaya Trail, Nepal section, to see if a never commercially trekked route was viable and to check out the mountaineering potential was around there. Would this be a shortcut for the GHT? Plus I wanted to complete the most challenging, remote trekking "high route" across Dolpo to Mugu. Success with all was the result, thanks to a star crew and a great team of trekkers.

After leaving Lo Monthang we met only one more group for the rest of the trek - and that was Kim's Upper Dolpo to Jomsom trip!

A trek is not about statistics but here are a few: 29 days continuously over 3800m/12,500ft including 4 nights sleeping over 5000m/16,400ft. We crossed three passes over 5500m/18,000ft with three more between 5000m and 5500m, and another handful around 4500m/15,000ft.

The tough GHT team less one porter and the horse team - Jamie

* Historical note: Chharka to Lo Manthang was first trekked by foreigners in 1962 by Peter Aufschnaiter (of Seven Years in Tibet fame) and Robert Jenny (Switzerland) with a couple of locals and three yaks. Then, a couple of years prior to our trek, Paulo Grobel also crossed in that direction just with one or two local staff as his group took a different, easier route. The Lo locals were not particularly happy about this but Paulo has done a lot for the mapping of the region.

In 2010, we asked nomads near Lo Manthang about various trails and they were forthcoming except about the Kekyap La route, where they clammed up. Intrigued, in Lo we asked and they suggested if we came next year, we could trek the route (after the buckwheat harvest was finished) and so we did. The reason for the restriction on the route was that it was the royal family's grazing area and only their animals could go up there.

2010

2010 GHT Mustang & Saribung Wild - we traversed from Upper Mustang to Nar-Phu and climbed Saribung 6328m with 100% team success, then traversed around Manaslu as well.

Perhaps five different groups raced to cross the Saribung La over the previous year - and all failed. We got it right, partially because Bali was on one of the failed attempts as a sherpa and knew what their mistakes were. 

+ GHT Mustang and Saribung Wild

We start with Upper Mustang to fabled Lo Manthang, the last functioning walled city in the world, then climb Saribung, a straightforward 6328m peak, and cross a glaciated pass to the Nar-Phu Valley with some exploring in between. And add on around Manaslu at the end, if you like for a real GHT experience!

18 Sept-21 Oct, 34 days -- expedition style -- +Jamie McGuinness -- US$3950
Team: +Paul Murrill***, +Matthias Loeu (and Richard B and Jon as guests)
Manaslu end option: 18 Sept-1 Nov, 45 days -- US$4980
Team: +Celesta****, +Lee Ann IS (and Shoshana for Manaslu only)
Crew: +Bali (sirdar), Birey, Pasang Gyelu (cook), Wangchu, Kaji, Pasang Meme, Iteram ...

The best. Wow, the most amazing trek, trekkers and logistics - thanks to everyone involved!

And everyone summitted the 6328m Saribung too! Here are some random thoughts.

Lee Ann's sharp wit delighted us, eg about a few bloody bits on a rock after we witnessed with slight horror a trail side yak castration, "Those are his brains." And she should know, her husband is a vet.

Celesta entertained us with comments easily misconstrued - or does she have a Freudian tongue? And even with 42 days trekking she didn't get the perfect night shot so might have to return?

Matt showed the girls that Jamie is not quite the most sexist, insensitive, immature male on the planet. But seriously, this was an ambitious first trek, well done!

I am not quite sure what the crew thought; Shosh got us all groaning, moaning and ooh-ing, in dining tent orgies of stretching and massage, and after working out the hard way that flipflops and cow dung don't mix, enjoyed the expedition-style trek.

And appreciative Paul, Saribung was his first Himalayan peak after beginning to trek here over 30 years ago. At at 71 years old, a tough trekker. As for the rest of the team... Never mind that Paul was the fittest of us all, it was further humbling to realize the barefoot 80 year old man with one good eye did beat us on the 100m? (vertical) descent and ascent from Singlha to Laprak. If we had taken less photo breaks we might - might - have been able to keep up!

2009

2009 GHT Makalu Wild - straightening the GHT, we were the first trekkers to cross Chyangtang to Makalu Base Camp the direct way.

GHT (Kanchen Gola) Wild *Exploratory - Nepal

The 7th (!) and probably last 42 day Kanchenjunga special; we trek the Milke Danda to Topke Gola and then go Great Himalaya Trail exploring to Makalu and Mera Peak and then via our sherpa crew's villages. Wild!

19 Oct-29 Nov, 42 days -- expedition style -- Jamie McGuinness -- US$2950 -- Mera Peak climb option US$3500 -- full
Team: Celesta Fong****, Richard Keidan***, Chris K, Ben*** & Diana***, Paul Murrill**, Carolyn G* and Bengt E*
Crew: Pasang (from Tori Bari), Tawa, Namgyal, Phurba Wangchu (Dawa's brother), Karma, Nawang Geden, ?? and ??

Wow, what a trek but tougher than anyone expected, including me. Essentially the trek was in three parts, an exploration along the Milke Danda-Jaljale to Topke Gola and Thudam, the two remotest villages in Eastern Nepal, then exploratory trail breaking on the direct route from the Arun river to Makalu Base Camp, then after Mera Peak instead of a quick exit, more exploration down to Lamidanda airport via four of the villages our sherpa team originate from.

It was another classic pioneering trek and the first section was our first time up the Milke Danda Jaljale ridge between Kanchenjunga and Makalu, and still barely trekked. Inauspiciously, I started the trek a few days too early over Dashain (In those days, the government only decided the dates of Dasain at Nepal New Year, ie 14 April, for an October trek, I had guessed slightly wrong) and so we could either wait a couple of days in the hills until our strong Trisuli porters were available or find local porters - which Namgyal did. We kitted them out with warm jacket and pants, socks, sleeping tents etc for the cold but after a couple of days we were alpine and they decided to run away early in the morning. Namgyal was horrified and ran after them, threatening them with the police for taking the jacket and pants and persuaded them to return. Phew!

We continued along for a couple of days and this is where our three local guides, separate from the porters, told us they hadn't been further along the ridge than this. We assured them the route later lead down and they could get back home along the Arun River. The porters were also antsy, and Namgyal worked out that the local guide-porters had told them that the world ended here and we would all trek off to our deaths (seriously!), so no wonder they were grumbling. Luckily, Namgyal and I were able to persuade everyone we knew the trail ahead and how they would get home, and how much money they would be returning with, and we continued on our merry way.

More to come.

Carolyn has a (large) public Flickr photo collection.

I have four albums on Flickr:

2009 GHT1 Milke Danda

2009 GHT2 to Makalu

2009 GHT3 Sherpani-Mera

2009 GHT4 Bung-Kurima

2008

2008 Limi-Saipal - Jamie discovered the crucial pass near Saipal for the 2012 GHT Wild West trek after guiding James Vlahos writing for Nat Geo; thanks Nepal Trust.

Saipal Summit for Health *exploratory with Nepal Trust

We research the northern aspects of Saipal for Nepal Trust's 2010 "Summit for Health", an expedition to Saipal, the iconic peak of the region, to raise awareness and money for their programs out there.

7-16 Nov, 10 days -- expedition style -- Rinchen Lama
Team: Jamie McGuinness, Jeroen V
Nepal Trust crew: Rinchen Lama, Ungur, Ganesh, Ram Bahadur, J, Sitar and ?

We explored! Rinchen put together a team far bigger and stronger than I originally envisaged but was the better for it. Sitar, the Yhulwang (Yulbang) Nepal Trust health post worker, had climbed on Saipal 12 years ago, and another porter was from the nearest village, and had trekked with an expedition to base camp previously too.

From Yhulwang (Yulbang) we dropped to the Karnali, then climbed out of the other side to the pass over to Chala, a village spectacularly set on a steep hillside. It was a tough day to Saipal base camp (better split in two for normal treks and expeditions) but the next day we accomplished the "work" there, climbing up to view as much of the route as possible. Jamie (alone) decided to take the tough route out and crossed a snowy pass for the "Nepali" route back to Simikot.

Jamie sleeping out at Saipal Base Camp - photo by Jamie

2007

2007 Manaslu Wild - we explored the Tsum Valley to the Tibet border, and also explored above Samdo to several Tibet border passes and up a nearly 6000m peak.

Manaslu Wild *exploratory

A 35 day Jamie special, we explore the remote Tsum valley to the Tibetan border twice and climb Larkya Peak 6010m. Wild!

21 Oct-24 Nov, 35 days -- expedition style -- Jamie McGuinness -- US$2650 -- full
Team: Jeff Splitgaber***, Bridget H, Mike S**, Larry W*, Bob Carney**, Gerald M, Rick T, Owen C (and Ron S who swapped trips)
Crew: Dawa Gelje (sirdar), Tawa (sherpa), Jangbu (sherpa), Sarki (cook), and kitchen hands: Prem, Kaji, Chhiri, Norbu and Sar

The Manaslu Circuit brought back 2000 memories. This time, however, we did get up to Mu Gompa and explore to the top of the trading pass with Tibet (no border pillar), and discovered there is still more temptation up that valley. Getting out was another matter and the "shortcut" was even more adventurous than I remembered, perhaps my mind forgets nightmares. The trail was laughably thin and steep, rather challenging, thank goodness the grass wasn't wet, but the real surprise was in the forest where it was truly horrible and even included a ladder. We did eventually all arrive at a small camp, tears and a few mercifully small falls later, no real injuries though. You could die or get hurt badly on that trail; even the Tamang porters complained, it was that bad.

The ruggedness and the lack of development were surprises as we continued around the circuit. From Samdo we headed off again and after a snap decision stayed in this delightful valley for five days, bagging a couple of passes (pillars 34 and 35) and "Larkya IV" peak. We always have a mission on the exploratory trips but we weren't expecting one crossing the straightforward Larkya La - it was icy on the other side! This time the porters did laugh, even if two loads did tumble down the moraine (one had the rope in it). Bimthang was beautiful and the descent into the warm country pleasant, although that road to Chame has pushed up to Syangje now, on the opposite side of the river.

The hearts (cards) team fell sick on the last day or two, two of them with flu, and Rick managed to trip over on the road of all places, the mountain views were that good, and Bridget's knees were trying to tell her something, but other than these minor details we had a relaxed and good trek.

The crew were superstars. Sarki and the kitchen's cooking pleased us day after day after day, Jangbu's quiet dedication and Dawa's mild laugh about anything and everything kept us going. Thanks!

2006

2006 Kanchen Gola Wild - we were the first trekkers to the top the Umbak La to Tibet.

Kanchen Gola Wild *exploratory

Jamie's 6th 42 day exploratory trek in the region!! We visit the north base camp, the show-stealing Jannu BC and attempt a complex of 6000m peaks, lastly we take the most remote high route over from Kanchenjunga to Makalu.

17 Oct-27 Nov, 42 days -- expedition style -- leader: Jamie McGuinness -- US$2950 -- trip full
Team: Clive C** and Catherine P**, Falko* and Mieke*, Paul Murrill* (Simona twisted her ankle just prior).

"Once in a lifetime experience." Pick a rural house in remote Nepal and stay the night, observe the life just as it is, chang and all; Meike and Falko wanted to and we did. And had plenty of other once-in-a-lifetime experiences, including seeing a Yellow-throated Marten loping along and being the first? trekking group to make the Umbak La, Border Post 78 (as we were with three other passes in the region).

The weather wasn't kind and so we couldn't make Topke Gola (so still one 'Gola' to go), but we did make Thudam again and take that extreme high route again, and follow the Arun out. The crew, porters and and sherpas and kitchen were total superstars, nothing ran out and even bed tea was not a minute early or late, ever. I can't say enough to praise the hard work put in.

Our 2006 Kanchen Gola Exploratory trek team at the end

2005

2005 Kanchen Gola Wild - first trekkers to cross the Lumba Samba, ie Kanchenjunga to the Makalu region, crucial for the GHT.

Kanchen Gola Wild *exploratory

This will be our 5th 42 day exploratory trek in the region (!!) and the last area we have yet to explore. We visit both base camps, the show-stealing Jannu BC and attempt a complex of 6000m peaks that we can call Bokta North. Lastly the locals reckon there is a way over from Kanchenjunga to Makalu - we have adventures finding out.

23 Oct-3 Dec, 42 days -- expedition style -- leader: Jamie McGuinness -- US$2850
Team: Natasha D*, John SS*, Dallas C, Gerardo G, Andrew M, Mike T, Ken Hummel**, Niels and Jerry C**
Finishing team: John SS*, Natasha D*

Natasha has written a short and sweet diary.

What a fantastic trip. So how did we end up with only three trekkers for the exploratory section? First on arrival in Kathmandu, Ken found out that his son had just contracted suspected meningitis, and flew back immediately. Very sad to lose him so quickly. Then after Kanchenjunga North side BC and camping at Pangpema most of the herd bolted, saying that they had not expected to be quite as cold as it was. My entreaties of but "it is just a cold snap" did not wash with them, and as soon as they left it warmed again! To be fair Niels was going to stay but twisted his knee, and Dallas also.

We still didn't quite get to the top of Bokta North; another time, but we were very close.

I had my first helicopter evacuation while running my own trips, Dallas stretched his Achilles tendon tripping on the trail and the swelling just would not go down, even with 5 days rest, so he got a very scenic flight out.

Standing L-R: Bal Bahadur (porter naike), Pasang (sherpa-cook), Bir Bagh (sherpa), Dawa Gelje (sirdar), John SS, Da'Yula (sherpa-sirdar), Natasha, Niels, Alphonse, Dallas C, Jerry C.
Lower row: Pasang (kitchen), Namgyal (sirdar-leader), Zangbu (sherpa), Pik C, Gerardo, Rachel, Megan, John, Mike, Ornella, Jamie, Andrew

2004

2004 Nangpa La exploratory - trekking to the Tibet border in the Everest region for the guide book Trekking in the Everest Region.

Nangpa La *exploratory

A last minute trip planned on the back of an envelope.

Dates: 26 Nov-13 Dec. Services: teahouse and light expedition. Cost: shared.
Team: L-R Baba, Billi, the stray Dr Mike, Namgya who pulled the cans of juice out of nowhere and Pemba; photo by Jamie..

Everyone else was probably grateful they didn't have to sleep out on top of the Nangpa La. Jamie did for the third time, and was charged by a yak for his pains, imagine dancing around in -10C in just socks and longjohns for half an hour while the yak tossed his gear. We also crossed an unmarked pass into the Gokyo valley, quite an achievement, and even bagged a research peak, but perhaps the most satisfying was camping out lots of beautiful nights then relaxing at one of the most beautiful spots, Gokyo.

Caravan 6000 *exploratory

WILD. We continue our exploration series and hope to reach the mysterious "Rupshu Icecap" as pilots call it. A 6000+m mountain or two beckon, and a few little-used mountain passes.

Dates: 10 Aug-4 Sep, 26 days. Services: expedition-style. Leader: Jamie McGuinness. Cost: US$2480.
Team: Eric Schneider**, Brian and Andriya.

Classic exploration, and someone said you have to suffer to enjoy. We did suffer cold river crossings, freezing rain occasionally and a few tummy bugs but also thoroughly enjoyed it. Yes, we climbed a 6000m mountain, not the one intended, and crossed the mysterious Rupshu Ice Field--we know its secrets--and left the region using two passes that few trekkers have ever crossed. Jamie explored two other passes and we will explore this area further next year. With a slightly early finish that gave them time to explore Dharmasala as well.

Clockwise: Lobsang, Eric, Andriya, Brian and Rana (cook); Jamie took the photo.

2003

2003 Kanchen Gola Wild - for our 4th 42 day trek in the Kanchenjunga region, we were the first trekkers to the top of Olangchung Gola's Tipta La after Joseph Hooker in 1848, and in 2017, we found out no other trekkers ever went there after us; now there is a road across it.

Kanchen Gola Wild - exploratory

High and Wild, Wild, Wild! The region offers the best high altitude exploration anywhere in Nepal - no bull, just yaks - and many peaks begging for bagging. We will further explore the outrageous Olangchung-Yangmak region, ie the valley system just to the west of Kanchenjunga, which was opened just last year.

Dates: 20 Oct-30 Nov, 42 days. Services: Mixed expedition and light expedition style.
Leaders: Jamie & Nicola*** - Cost: US$2780/€2480
Team: Andy Falgate*, Sharon Taylor, Tremaine Dickenson and Carsten Nebel****

Our guide reckoned that no trekkers had ever been up to the pass to Tibet we explored; Carsten had a read and found that Hooker was first in 1848(!), so second is hardly second best. An untimely snowfall prevented rampant climbing in the areas we had planned, but we trekked the whole region and got up a 6000m hill and almost got up Bokta.

See Carsten's wonderful diary.

Jamie, Sharon, Andy, an errant Sherpani, Tremaine, Nicola, Temba and Carsten

2002

2002 Kanchen Gola Wild - our 3rd 42 day Kanch trek, we were the first trekkers to Yangma's 5746m Kang La/Ghari La.

Kanchen Gola Wild - *exploratory

High and Wild, Wild, Wild! The Olangchung-Topke Gola region, ie the valley system just to the west of Kanchenjunga, was opened this year and we will explore it. Properly.

Dates: 21 Oct-1 Dec, 42 days. Services: Mixed expedition and light expedition style.
Leaders: Jamie & Joel (and we aren't gay!). Cost: US$2680/€2680. Status: full.
Team: Bob R***, Brian F**, Jeff S, Andrea & Jonas, Peter & David Wood, Filip VS, Heidi K, Andy L, Richard N* and Nicola*.
Crew: Sirdar: Keepa. Cooks: Mehk B Tamang, Temba & Dawa. Climbing sherpa: Nawang. Sherpa: Lhakpa.

Off the map literally! Really out there too, absolute classic with a wonderful bunch of people.

See Kanchen Gola '02 photo series.

Caravan Explorer 6000

Our classic Caravan route, with a bit of high altitude "exploration", of course.

Dates: 26 Sep-20 Oct, 25 days. Service: expedition-style. Leaders: Joel and Jamie. Cost: US$1600.
Team members: Bob R**, Carsten***, Lance T, Nicole***, Malk**.

Yep, four out of five have trekked with us before. Four out of five don't drink rum either!?

The second section turned out to be one of the highest altitude treks anywhere, we crossed a 5800m pass, explored up a 5950m one and trekked up a few 6000m hills - and failed on the peak we really wanted, due to weather. God it was cold!

See Carsten's diary and photos.

Zanskar the Hard Way - Ladakh, India *exploratory

WILD. Since '99 we have had some unfinished business, the high and glaciated Kang La. But we don't stop there, the wild Jumlam calls, with the option of a peak...

Dates: 5 Sep-5 Oct, 31 days. Service: expedition-style. Leaders: Joel and Jamie. Cost: US$1980/€1980.
Team: Eric* and Charlene*, Nicole**

From emails it is so hard to guess what people are like. Eric and Charlene were a delight! Eric, with witty comments to match Joel's, Charlotte with knowing looks and sly digs, and a fondness for rum, roll on Happy Hours! Nicole improved her Tibetan with the crew and had to put up with lots of French jokes - every French group we met turned back, we even met one of them twice, but Nicole didn't. In fact she joined the next trek as well - tougher than all the rest of the French put together!

The trek - we called off the Kang La section because conditions just didn't seem right, and lucky we did too. We crossed the more normal Shingo La while it was snowing for two days, and was nearly knee deep. As usual our team performed heroically, and with good judgement. Lobsang and myself broke trail until the horses caught us, and then they showed what they were made of, easily breaking trail faster than we could, strong as strong. Other horsemen-groups turned back.

I just love the upper Zanskar valley! So beautiful and great trekking. Again we slightly adapted our route because of broken trails, instead of trekking via Shade we resupplied in Padum then off into the Jumlam. God, those gorges! Lobsang said 108 river crossings, and this number gives you a clue... This is a journey of penance - especially as Jamie didn't bring any other boots, and when he couldn't jump, took his boots off. Joel more sensibly had old boots, Nicole a pair of running shoes, and Eric and C, Tevas. The Jumlam is a classic! We will be back. See the Jumlam photo gallery.

Back on the main trail at the Zalung Karpo La, the trek up to Nimaling and then over the Kongmaru La has to be some of the best couple of days trekking anywhere, the huge feeling of space, the delicate colours, the panoramas. Then that final gorge, unlike the others but also utterly captivating. The peak? conditions were a bit tough so we opted for a lower hill and were rewarded with savage winds but a good view. Another memorable trek, even if nobody could draw.

2001

2001 Kanchenjunga Wild - we were the first trekkers to the Chabuk La, climbed a virgin peak and climbed Tengkoma peak - and saw snow leopards, see Wanda's diary!

Kanchenjunga Wild - *exploratory

High and Wild, Wild, Wild! The region offers the best high altitude exploration anywhere in Nepal - no bull, just yaks - and many peaks begging for bagging and then there's that west valley. This will be our 'third time lucky' trip, the first two were great but suffered unseasonal snow.

Dates: 15 Oct -25 Nov, 42 days. Services: Mixed expedition and light expedition style. Leaders: Jamie and Joel. Cost: US$2680.
Team members: Wendy, Wanda, Robin and Kirstine. Sirdar: Ram Kaji.

Here is an article by Wanda and her photos. This was a second 42 day Kanchenjunga trek.

We didn't suffer unseasonal snow, in fact conditions were virtually perfect, but the health of our trekkers wasn't. Due to no fault of their own, unusually a few people found altitude didn't particularly agree with them. So after Lobsang and I had climbed a 6000m peak, then a bunch of us climbed Tengkoma, and Wanda and I saw a snow leopard, we headed out to Taplejung early and completely changed the itinerary. We are probably the most adaptable trekking company... We trekked out the wonderful middle hills route to Tumlingtar, a route that will soon have a road along it.

Ladakh Himalayan Caravan 6666 - India *exploratory

Across the main Indian Himalayan chain lies the enchanting moonscape of Ladakh. Share tea with Tibetan nomads in the captivatingly beautiful mountain desert-scapes. Rugged colourful rock contrast with the azure rivers and green village oases. Monasteries cling to rock faces and Buddhist chortens dot the immense landscape. In contrast to Zanskar our wild route is virtually unknown and untouched, seven (!) 5000m passes but is a true classic. For the not so superstitious we attempt peak 6666m near Tso Moriri (the superstitious or non-climbers are welcome too).

Dates: 23 Jul-30 Aug, 39 days. Service: expedition-style. Leaders: Joel and Jamie. Cost: US$1980.
Team members: Retta, Beau**, Catherine**, Don**, Angela and Edwin. Guests: Rinchen and Caroline.

Man, what a classic! The company, trek, crew - everything...

It was one of the most memorable trips, a memory of 'Those were the days, my friend, we thought they'd never end...'

Perhaps Retta's memories were a little different - see lower down for the Indian Curry Rhapsody...

And Edwin has a more mature diary.

2000

2000 Manaslu High - we explored Manaslu's Tsum valley prior to Tsum being opened (!) and climbed Chulu Far East.

Classic Manaslu High *GHT

Imagine the Annapurna Circuit before it became popular - adventurous and even a little tough, that's the circuit of Manaslu. Beginning in picturesque Gurung villages we trek up to Tibetan settlements near the border then, with glaciers groaning nearby, cross the 5115m Larkya La. This trek around the 8th highest peak on the planet is a true classic, and naturally we sneak five extra days for exploring. We do the region justice, after all, you are not likely to be returning. A 6000m peak included too...

Dates: 25 Oct - 25 Nov, 32 days. Services: Expedition style. Leader: Jamie McGuinness. Cost: US$2260.
Team members: Tom, Dana**, Dagmar, Carsten*, Tracey, Jon and Lizzie

When will Jon and Lizzie return? Jon's sense of humour and equimanity were well appreciated. We had a few adventures, in Tsum Valley (not actually open to trekkers) the toilet tent was stolen despite Jamie sleeping outside less than 10 metres away! We didn't make it up the Nubri Valley, but had one of the best day's trekking finding out why groups don't take the obvious shortcut on the map. There is no campsite with water for about 12 hours walking. Dana and Dagmar slept on the trail (but with tent and food) while the rest of us made it - just. The panoramas were incredible though. And the keen all summitted Chulu Far East 6060m.

Tom's diary

Kanchenjunga NSW *exploratory

Is it co-incidence that the trip is 42 days or is there a deeper meaning? Yep, meaning enough time for the north and south base camps and the west. West? We explore west to the base of the 'Chewbacca La' (for Starwars fans), a valley begging for exploration.

Dates: 26 Mar-6 May, 42 days. Services: Mixed expedition and light expedition style.
Leaders: Joel & Dave E Haun. Cost: US$2680. Status: full.
Team members: Emma, Dave**, Eric*, Nicole* and Bonnie. Sirdar: Ram Kaji.

Although most people enjoyed the trek, and several have trekked with us again, I still have regrets - we could have done better with this very diverse group. It didn't help that Dave was sick for the first part of the trek or that the weather was shite - no Tengkoma summit. But they did see snow leopard prints and have many enjoyable evenings. Note that Jamie went to Cho Oyu on short notice.

1999

1999 Kanchenjunga-Makalu - 42/75 day trek (!) and when we couldn't cross Sherpani-West Col, we returned to Tumlingtar in plastic boots.

Kanchenjunga Magic & Tengkoma climb 6215m

Huge rewards for those intrepid enough; an ancient culture and scenery to rival the Everest region. A classic trek, classic expedition style from the middle hills to the north base camp where avalanches rumble and glaciers groan on the world's #3. But wait - there have been several special peaks announced for the Kanchenjunga region, so we also attempt the most straightforward, Tengkoma.

Dates: 11 Oct - 4 Nov 99, 26 days. Service: expedition style. Leaders: Jamie McGuinness and William Davidson. Cost: US$1980.
Team members: Dave E*, Joel Schone, Martin*, Gary*, Sam*, ... Sirdar: Ram Kaji.

Combined with the Kanchenjunga Wild trip below, this was a full trip with 12 members! Soon it became obvious that William, the co-leader, was not the right person to lead a trek (see the newsletter) and he ditched himself. After that we had someone for the butt of all our jokes and it was a very social and fun trek. An untimely fall of snow delayed us so people for the Tengkoma climb had to forgo it, leaving it to the expedition team.

Kanchenjunga Wild Climbs - *exploratory

High and Wild, Wild, Wild! The region offers the best high altitude exploration anywhere in Nepal - no bull, just yaks - and many valleys begging for exploration. And many peaks. For 1999 only, for those with the know-how Tengkoma 6215m, Ramtang 6601m and Dromo 6855m can be climbed with the minimum bureaucracy. In addition to some rampant exploring to get acclimatized, we aim to get up Tengkoma and at least one of the others...

Dates: 11 Oct - 17 Nov 99, 38/42 days. Services: Mixed expedition style and light expedition style, max 8 climbers. Leaders: Jamie McGuinness and William Davidson. Cost: US$2480.

So it was left to us to climb Tengkoma, and 8 out of 8 did! Ramthang and the main peak of Dromo were scary mountains and the previous huge fall of snow made conditions difficult, so 5 of us attempted what we will call "Dromo North" but after 3 days on a glacier we were still not even at the base of it. In better conditions it would be a fine 6400m peak. Meanwhile a few people explored up a long valley but the still deep snow stopped them. So Dave, Joel and Jamie are more determined than ever to thoroughly explore the region - join us in April 2001!

Makalu High - *exploratory

More of the wild stuff, two 6100m passes followed by a 5700m pass.

Team members: Jamie, Joel Schone, Martin*, Gary*, Sam*. Sirdar-cook: Ang Dami.

The hardcore from the Kanchenjunga Wild Climbs were hard - five of us trekked together for 10 weeks! After some classic middle hills trekking it was back it the snow again. Conditions were too challenging to make the crossing safe so we returned, perhaps the only trekkers to have trekked Makalu Base Camp to Tumlingtar in plastic boots. I told you we were hard.

1998

1998 Churen Surprise - an exploratory trek to Churen Himal base camp above Gurjagoan, a trek/area that still few people have ever heard of.

Churen Surprise *exploratory

Never heard of Churen Himal Base Camp? Neither had I but arriving, it blew my mind! Starting in Tansen and finishing near Pokhara, the 15 day trek is similar but infinitely superior to the Annapurna Base Camp trek. Pleasant untouristed villages en route and the odd inspiring mountain snapshot then a jaw-dropping 360 I can touch 'em high mountain panorama.

Dates: 29/30 Oct - 23 Nov 98. 15-16 days trekking. Service: expedition style. Leader: Jamie McGuinness. Cost: US$1090.

Some people wonder whether we actually run these sorts of treks, or merely advertise them. After this trek we know we should run more! It was a classic in every sense. What villages on the way in and out! picturesque, friendly and untouristed. The mountain region was also spectacular, although it must be said that a little sickness at this point prevented everyone from enjoying the high regions to the full. Jamie explored a new better trail out (most suitable for trekking into the region) and even found snow leopard mother and cub footprints.

1997

Khumbu 6000m exploring - *exploratory trek

Midnight blue skies, crunchy snow, 5700m high passes and a peak or two are waiting just for us. December is the finest and driest month.

Dates: Early Dec 97. Service: Light expedition style. Leader: Jamie McGuinness. Cost: US$cheap.
Team: Reid T**, Andy**, Wayne Fowler*, Leighton

Wayne (NZ) and Leighton (Wales) who had just trekked to Gokyo joined myself, Reid and Andy for an attempt of Parcharmo, crossing the Tashi Labtsa and the climb of Ramdung-Go.

We camped virtually on top of the Tashi Labtsa to try Parcharmo 6318m. A -12C wind and no sun eventually turned us back at approx 6150m. Reid's nose was beginning to freeze, and he felt rather attached to it... Over the pass we camped in an ice fall and awoke to snow (8 Dec). We were in absolutely the worst place to be when a huge dump of snow hit us (2-4 metres, seriously!). What should have been a two or three day walk across glaciers and moraine turned into a VERY TOUGH 5 day slog thru horrendously deep snow. We arrived at the nearest village completely out of fuel and food but alive. December certainly wasn't the finest and driest month.

What a memorable and formative trek this turned out to be.

More than 2 metres of snow fell, perhaps as much as 4 metres.
Reid on a convenient big rock, Andy in orange where there is no rock,
Wayne behind standing on a rock, Leighton sitting on one. Photo by Jamie.

1997 Wild Kanchenjunga - the trek that started the Kanchenjunga exploration series; we didn't meet any other trekkers.

Wild Kanchenjunga - *exploratory trek

Winter Adventure to Kanchenjunga base camp. You gotta be crazy! Yep. Kanchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world and the trek there is tough but very rewarding. This is a super-budget trek.

Dates: 7 Feb - 14 Mar 97. Service: Light expedition style. Leader: Jamie McGuinness. Cost: US$1390.
Team: Rodney.

And WILD it was! The weather was kind, fine every day and no snow up there. The wind only flattened our tent once. Quite simply the north side of Kanchenjunga offers some of the best high altitude exploring anywhere. Jannu North Base Camp and its north face has to be see to be believed; this alone was worth the whole trek, but it just kept on going and going. Endless valleys, and try as we might in five weeks we only had time to explore a few. There are many more left. Kanchenjunga's north face is also spectacular, and we managed to find a 6000m viewpoint not far from Pangpema. We also crossed Sallale to visit the south base camp region. Scenic, but the north side is better... Rodney and myself were completely blown away at what a fantastic experience the whole thing was.

And believe it or not, there are further gems in our Previous treks 19XX page!

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