Our expedition history

** After fifteen safe and successful years Jamie has finished guiding 8000m peaks. **

How did we do? You can check here for a brief summary. + means successful.

2011-2015 expeditions | 2000-2010 expeditions | 2004-2010 expedition dispatches

Everest thoughts | Everest North or south? | Everest gear | Expedition history

Safety

Unlike most operators, we believe in full disclosure. Our statistics are all below, no massaging. Luckily we have not had a death on any expedition ever, and no frostbite on full Project Himalaya expeditions (yes, partly this is luck but management is also a big part of this).

PH means a full Project Himalaya expedition; Jamie was fully responsible for the expedition

MT means Mountain Trip lead by Scott Woolums

You can also see our Previous treks, sections in About us and the Photo galleries.

2019

I returned to Everest because of this special project, searching for more clues on what might have happened to Mallory and Irvine. 

+2019 Everest Expedition Projects - Tibet

This was a private team for multiple media projects.

Team: +Renan Ozturk, +Mark Synnott, Thom Pollard, Nick Kalisz, +Matt Irving, Jim Hurst and +Jamie McGuinness
Climbing sherpas: +Bal Bahadur Lopchan (Bali), Ngatemba Sherpa Taktok, +Lakpa Temba Sherpa, +Pasang Kaji Sherpa, +Lhakpa Tenji Sherpa, +Prakash Gurung Kemchay, Sanjay Tamang, Sonam Sherpa Taktok, +Kusang Sherpa ...
Crew: Da Pasang Sherpa, Bire Tamang and Da Gelje Sherpa as cooks
Summit: 30 May 2019

Summit success and storytelling!

We had rather more issues than I would have liked, the plots of which will feature in plenty of media productions about the expedition and a book. Check out Nat Geo for a documentary, a magazine article or two, and also The North Face and Sony. A huge thumbs up to Renan Ozturk for putting the production together and a massive thank you to the team of Mark, Thom, Nick, Matt and Jim. Also, thank you to the awesome sponsors, The North Face and Sony especially.

2015

That earthquake... On the north side of Everest we also certainly felt the Nepal earthquake and aftershocks. The Chinese authorities closed the area in Tibet affected, including Everest BC and so we had to abandon our expeditions. Around 12,000 people were evacuated from border areas close to the quake zone.

~2015 Everest Expedition - Tibet

Guide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to your safety and success.

8 Apr-6 June, 60 days — Jamie McGuinness
Team: Olivier Tran and Felix Tan with the extras Satoshi Tamura and Frank Marchetti
Safety: stopped by earthquake but no injuries

Quake edition... After establishing ABC the Nepal 7.8 earthquake shook us. The news coming out of the south side was hard to believe initially, especially as there wasn't a single injury on the north side (don't ask Jamie about the dog bite). Thank goodness the 1000m rock face glowering over ABC held. However, sensibly the Chinese authorities through the CTMA closed the mountain for the rest of the season and told us to leave.

~North Col with Lhasa - Tibet

First, we experience historic and modern Lhasa, the Potala has to be seen to be believed, then in the shadow of Everest we climb high, seriously high.

23 Apr-16 May, 24 days — jeep safari & expedition-style — local guide — climbing guide Jamie McGuinness — US$12,980
Team: Dave Auricht, Chris Bryce and Dan Gray

Yes, this expedition was also stuck in Lhasa. Additionally other teams we were providing logistics for never got beyond base camp. Bummer.

+Aconcagua Expedition - Argentina

Success on all six previous expeditions! The standard route "features" 2000m of scree - not for me. Instead we climb the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain, and as a triple bonus for Everest aspirants we talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything Everest.

7-27 Feb, 21 days — all trek & mountain services — Jamie McGuinness -- US$3880
Team: Toni Wilson, +Matthias Loeu***, Stephen L, Jeff* and Diane* G

2014

Following is our 7000m and 8000m expedition history; we have a separate page on previous treks and 6000m peaks.

+Aconcagua Expedition

Success on all five previous expeditions! The standard route "features" 2000m of scree - not for me. Instead we climb the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain, and as a triple bonus for Everest aspirants we talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything Everest.

2014: 4-24 Feb, 21 days — all trekking and mountain services -- +Jamie McGuinness -- US$3880
Team: David G**, +Amanda B and Lynda

This was a fun expedition but with plenty of challenges. Although we picked a great weather window, the afternoon "white wind" was still harsh and it is amazing that all the teams slower than us managed to get down without real incident (only JJ's team was ahead). We now stand at 6/6 Aconcagua summits but David had to retire due to severe diarrhoea, source untraceable (and a persistent problem among crew especially), and Lynda reached 6750m but getting the summit safely would have been an issue, leaving Amanda and myself on top.

Even if we didn't go clubbing we had plenty of crazy evenings dining out with friends from the mountain, Mendoza living up to it's reputation.

2012 Spring Expeditions

+- North Col - Tibet

In the shadow of Everest we climb high!

24 Apr-17 May, 24 days — jeep safari & expedition-style — Jo Chaffer — US$9950
Team: Debbie and James Suenson-Taylor, +Mike Sibley

Mike came prepared and made it to North Col, and had a fun trip. Climbing is climbing so Debbie and James wisely turned back as they approached their limits...

The North Col team, Mike, Jo (leader), Debbie and James (Sven) - Jamie

- 2012 Shishapangma - Tibet

While all the main companies are on Everest we sneak up Shishapangma!

21 Apr-2 June, 43 days — Luke Smithwick — US$15,950
Team: David W, Laurence V, Rafael G**, Markus Roth** ...
BC-ABC support: Mark Hose*** (again!)
Crew: Gyalzen, Nima Tenzi, Kaji, Karma (cook) and kitchen hands...

The 2012 Shishapangma expedition was an excellent adventure. We didn't manage to make the true summit during this particular good weather season window, as a matter of fact, no one summitted even the "Central summit" of the mountain this season, contrary to several reported successes. Why? Simply because the mountain was bony with hard blue ice pitches, exposed rock that is usually snow covered, and wickedly persistent winds. Teams attempted several different routes on the north side of the mountain with no true success. While Shishapangma is the lowest of the 14x 8000 meter peaks, it remains a wild, untamed, and well-guarded summit that few attain; unlike its lofty neighbors.

See the expeditions dispatches page for links to the dispatches.

Raphael has a set of expedition photos on Flickr and here is excerpt of his summary:

"I really enjoyed this 6-week expedition. I joined a great team of climbers, with a positive attitude and willingness to summit; our Sherpas (Gyalzen, Ngima and Kaji) provided excellent support; and the food was succulent, thanks to our cook, Karma. I was looking for a different experience from my 2010 Everest expedition, and I was not disappointed. First of all, being surrounded by the Tibetan plateau at 5000 meters (16,400 feet), we were able to approach Shishapangma by car right up to Base Camp. That was a real change versus the classic trekking approach in Nepal. Secondly, we were almost alone on the mountain (5 expeditions, altogether). In fact, after May 22, we were the only expedition on Shishapangma. During the summit push, there were only 6 climbers on the mountain (from Advance Base Camp to the summit)! In 2010, on Everest, between Camp 4 and the summit, there were 200 climbers. I felt very lucky to be able to climb an 8000-meter peak almost alone."

+ 2012 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH

Guide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to your safety and success.

9 Apr-7 June, 60 days — +Jamie McGuinness -- US$40,000
Team: +Tom Kowpak**
Crew: +Bal Bahadur Lopchan, Pasang Gyelu, Nawang Geden, Kami, +Da Gelje (2)
Tibetan crew: Kasang, Dorje and Norbu
Summit: 26 May 2012
Safety: no issues

Success!

Tom topped out with Dawa Gyalgen, and myself with Bali - his first summit! Both Tom and myself had horrible chest infections, so doubly well done. That is a long, tough and dangerous summit day. Thanks again to Kami, Dawa Gyalgen and Pasang Gyelu for good, often great, and always hygienic meals.

See the expeditions dispatches page for plenty of links.

Tom Kowpak on the summit of Everest - Jamie

+ 2012 Everest Expedition - Nepal - PH

We are catering for several different teams, with room for more so talk with us!

7 Apr-2 June, 57 days — Chris Klinke -- US$47,980
Team: Raffi Farajian**, Bassam (Sam) Sfair** and +Wasfia Nazreen***
Crew: +Ngima Griman, Sange, +Da Kusang, +Phurba Dorjee, Ngima Gyaljen, Phurba Kami and Lamababu
Sherpa kitchen: Da Lhakpa, Nawang Sange, Pasang Lhakpa and Gyalgen
Summit: 26 May 2012

What a curious expedition, I am sure Chris will agree. Raffi and Sam faced a medical emergency that threw them, and Sam returned to the mountain rather too quickly, having to be evacuated again. Returning together one more time didn't work either but at least they tried.

Serious congratulations to Wasfia, who summitted despite long odds, and has another tick on her seven summits quest. Also a BIG thanks to Chris Klinke whose able leadership ensured everything worked as well as possible, and a big thanks also the sherpa crew. Ngima and team did a fantastic job in the difficult and dangerous conditions of the season.

See the expeditions dispatches page for links to the dispatches.

+ Mountain Trip Everest Expedition - MT

Expedition Himalaya and myself provide support for Mountain Trip's very successful Everest expeditions. Here is the crew list only, for our public records.

Climbing sherpas: Pasang Gombu, Sonam Tsering, Karma Gelje, Da Ongchu, Samden, Da Kusang, Temba, Pasang Karma, Kaji, Da Finjo
Lhotse climbing sherpa: Tarke
ABC kitchen: Tawa, Ongdi, Da Nuru, Kaji, Tille
BC member kitchen: Sarki, Mingma Lhakpa, Lhakpa Tenji, Bire Tamang
Manager: Dawa Gelje

+ Aconcagua Expedition - PH

The last Aconcagua expedition, 100% success! The standard route "features" 2000m of scree - not for me! Instead we climb the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain, and as a triple bonus for Everest aspirants we talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything Everest.

5-25 Feb, 21 days — all trekking and mountain services — +Jamie McGuinness -- US$3650
Team: +Arabella**, +Peter G
Summit: 21 Feb 2012
Safety: no issues

Summit success! That makes five out of five times on Aconcagua. We all topped out on what I was hoping would be a perfect day, instead it was probably the best day of the period, but still some wind in the morning (a cold Caneletta). A gorgeous panorama from the top though - wish I had a camera with me.

More than a summit though we had a good, low key trip with a few nights under the bright stars. While our team was definitely on the small side, the issues experienced by some of the large teams were quite surprising. I think we have the right setup.

Arabella, Peter and Jamie on the summit of Aconcagua - Jamie

2011 Expeditions

+ Aconcagua Expedition - PH

The standard route "features" 2000m of scree - not for me! Instead we climb the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain, and as a triple bonus for Everest aspirants we talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything Everest.

2011: 3-23 Dec, 21 days — all trekking and mountain services -- +Jamie McGuinness -- US$3650
Team: +Dan Fredinburg, +Michele Battelli, +Wasfia Nazreen** (first person from Bangladesh!), +Shane and +Amy
Summit: 16 Dec
Safety: frost-nipped toes in one person

100% summit success! It was a chilly day though and tempered by Dan's frost nip partly due to close-fitting boots, and a few burnt noses-lips. It was a tough expedition in other ways too, believe it or not, from lots of fine weather. While we had rain on the way in, once on the mountain it was continuously fine with a good forecast for our earliest possible summit day, and so we hauled loads continuously, and even with a little portering from myself, still meant that we were carrying extra supplies for an extended trip. So in the end the team paid for some extra porters rather than wear themselves out.

Our 100% success wasn't unique, among teams on a similar timeframe, well done Papa Smurf's Swiss team of three, but the bird people as Dan labelled them (most had beaks, or nose protectors) didn't fare well, with only eight of the 20+ climbers-guides summitting, and proving that the no Diamox regime that Argentinean guides seem to be so fond of, definitely leads to lower success rates, even if Michele did get dehydrated with us (thanks, Dr Amy for the diagnosis).

Success comes with rewards too. Wasfia was the first Bangladeshi to summit Aconcagua - heartfelt congratulations. With Michele's finicky knee, Dan's toes and Markus only in plastic boots, a BC to Horcones chopper ride was more than a joyride, medically useful too, and with everyone a little lighter, four squeezed in for a heart-stopping adrenaline ride down, starting lots more BC enquiries as it really was good value.

Dan Fredinburg, Amy, Shane, Jamie, Markus, Wasfia and Michele at the park entrance - photo by Wasfia

+- 2011 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH

Guide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to your safety and success.

10 Apr-8 June, ~60 days — Jamie McGuinness -- US$35,000
Team: +Kenneth Koh, Jim Morrow, Esther Tan, Grant Rawlinson and Ismail Askerov and Luke Smithwick
Climbing crew: Bal Bahadur (Bali), Pasang Gelu, Nawang Geden, +Tawa, Pasang Kaji, Nima Griman, +Jamling Bhote, +Phujung Bhote
ABC kitchen-climbing: Dawa Gelje; BC kitchen: Kami and Norbu
Tibetan general hands: Karsang, Dorje, Sanu Karsang, Pasang
Summit: 27 May 2011
Safety: frost-nipped faces and one person with frostbitten finger tips that luckily recovered; conditions were very bad

Our expedition went so well, except for the most important day, summit day. Earlier weather forecasts indicated a fine period of some days and we picked what we thought was the best, and one day different from a large team. The forecast was updated by a professional forecaster while we didn't have internet access. However instead of the wind dropping at 3am, it increased and by 7am it was obvious that it wasn't going to stop so we had to abort the summit push and most people turned back. Unfortunately this was the right decision, and snow conditions on the route were also difficult. Only Kenneth Koh continued with three sherpas, and summitted with a lenticular cloud (wind cloud) over the summit. Ken became the second Singaporean to summit on the north side. We were not alone is misjudging the weather, the Mountain Trip team on the south side spent two nights at South Col, Russell Brice aborted his team's first summit push at C3 and quite a number of other teams summitted in rather different conditions from expected. In La Nina years it seems the computer models might be less accurate? Or perhaps the Iceland volcano eruption messed the models up? See our dispatches.

+ 2011 Mountain Trip Everest - Nepal - MT

You want the best expedition on the south side? Mountain Trip... 100% success for this expedition.

Team: +Scott Woolums, +Bill Allen, +6 clients
Climbing crew: +Pasang Gomba, +Tarke, +Da'Oangchu, Mindu, +Sange, +Temba, +Pem Chhiri, +Da'Kusang, +Sonam Tsering, +Pasang Tendi and more
Crew: Dawa Gelje, Sarki, Mingma Lhakpa, Da'Pasang, Da'Finjo, Karma Ongdi, Bire Tamang

100% success rate again!

+ Aconcagua 8000m Preparation Expedition

We talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything Everest, on the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain!

7-27 Feb, 21 days — all trekking and mountain services — +Jamie McGuinness -- US$3650+~$325/660 — full
Team: +Ben Wighton, +Kenneth Koh, +David Wermuth, +Esther Tan*, Matt Wilson, Ian Tucker, Bassam Sfair* and Rafi Farajian*
Trek team: Miriam U***, Demet Guzey*
Summit: 21 Feb 2011
Safety: one person lightly frost-nipped fingers

Success and what a wonderful expedition experience. For the third year in a row Jamie picked the best day of our summit window, a great summit day, breezy as we set off but no wind on top, and Mendoza lived up to its lofty reputation.

Thanks to the trekker girls for joining and enlivening the trek in, it was sad to see them go, and we never quite managed to choose Malbecs as well afterwards. It was also a shame that Matt with supportive tent mate Ian returned early with a worsening pre-existing condition. So that left a team of seven of us for the climb, carrying our own loads and eating David's roadrunner dust.

Probably because of the La Nina system, it was a damp trek in, eating steak and salad in drizzle, rather than the t-shirt heat of the seasons before. It was also snowy on the mountain, with mountain boots needed above Camp 1. Luckily the single skin tents held up even if they were not as suitable for the conditions as in years previous, although they were still the lightest and strongest of tents, important when we are carrying our own loads and when the mountain is as windy as Aconcagua can be.

I am not a fan of the Argentinean way of simply camping higher until you summit or are turned back by the winds, I much prefer to pick a summit window and in contrast to the last two times, there was no waiting, rather we pushed up sticking close to the ideal itinerary, summiting on the 20th of Feb. Due to a worsening cough picked up at home prior, Sam as personal guide to Rafi was not able to prepare logistically as well as needed for the summit and with them leaving later than the rest of the team, and unfortunately this stopped Rafi's summit attempt very close to the summit. With a snowy squall coming in and the real risk of lightning strikes, I was forced to turn Rafi around above 6900m only 20 heartbreaking minutes from the summit. Rafi, in addition to being camp jester (entertainer) proved to be tough too, waiting with myself and Esther an additional two days to claim a true summit (and double summits for myself and Esther). However it was not to be, with windy, snowy conditions that stopped all but the most hardcore summiting. Luckily we bailed when we did as it snowed heavily as we walked out. Another disappointment and surprise was David's lightly frost-nipped finger ends, probably from fixing crampons in the cold, luckily they will recover quickly. It was a tough season for other climbers though, with perhaps 6-7 deaths on the mountain and some nasty frostbite cases.

Afterwards Mendoza didn't disappoint with its glorious climate, fireworks, a beauty contest and the finding of two great restaurants. We even hit the wine festival for the third year in a row. And thanks from everyone to Rafi for hospitality above and beyond the call of duty, and several of us will most definitely be visiting his home base, another one of the world's major party cities, Beirut (Lebanon)!

Yep, it really was a fun an successful expedition!

See Kenneth Koh's brief blog entry and his Flickr photo set.

2011 Aconcagua team: Sam, Ben, Jamie, Matt, Demet, Miriam, Raffi, Ian, Esther and David in front - Photo © Kenneth Koh/Adventure Nomad

2010-2000 expedition history

See our 2010-2000 expedition history...