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Our 2010-2000 expedition history

**2013: This page is a historic page frozen in time - see Our current website**


How did we do? You can check here for a brief summary. + means successful.
(We don't massage our figures or hide dissatisfaction - unlike many others).
We have run over two dozen 8000m peak expeditions, from small to large expeditions, and everyone
has been satisfied or more usually very happy with the service, which, thinking back, is a really good record.
We really try!

See the Expedition dispatches section for photos and expedition diaries from 2004 onwards.

Here's our 2011 onwards expedition history.


Unlike most operators, we believe in full disclosure. Our statistics are all below, no massaging. Luckily we have not had a death on any expedition ever, and no frostbite on full Project Himalaya expeditions (yes, partly this is luck but management is also a big part of this).

PH means a full Project Himalaya expedition; Jamie was fully responsible for the expedition
MT means Mountain Trip lead by Scott Woolums
PH-AJ means partnered with Altitude Junkies, lead by Phil Crampton
PH w DCXP means a full P-H expedition with consultative input from DCXP
EH - means Jamie acted as the expedition consultant for Explore Himalaya and helped with the ground handling
private - means it was a private expedition that Jamie joined

2010 Expeditions

**This page is a historic page frozen in time - see Our treks for the current website**

+ 2010 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH

We return with a small team for a full support, guide assisted expedition. We understand and know the north side, have our very own weather forecasting guru and a reliable and strong sherpa team. Follow us!

Tibet: 8 Apr-6 June, 60 days -- all mountain services -- Jamie McGuinness -- US$29,950
Team: +Barry C**, Fernando Davalos, +Eric K, (Bruce G)
Team BC: Melissa
Crew PH team: Dayula, +Nima Griman, +Pasang Kaji
Joint crew: Kami, Dawa Gelje, and the Tibetans Dorje, Karsang, Norbu 1, Norbu 2 and Rinchen
Crew other team: Pasang Gelu1, Pasang Gelu 2, Nawang Geden, Pemba Kitar, Karma, Bali and Tawa
Lhakpa Ri crew: Dayula and Dawa Gelje
Summit: 24 May 2010
Safety: no injuries

Eric and Barry summitted and overall the expedition went well. See the Expedition summary that also covers our other two Everest expeditions.

Barry Cohen, South Africa, Everest summit

Congratulations! Barry Cohen on the summit, 24 May 2010, 3:05am Nepal time

+ 2010 Mountain Trip Everest - Nepal - MT

You want the best expedition on the south side? Mountain Trip...

Team: +Scott Woolums, +Bill Allen, +5 clients
Climbing crew: +Pasang Gombu, +Tarke, +Da'Oangchu, Mindu, +Sange, +Temba, +Chotar, +Pem Chhiri, +Da'Kusang, +Sonam Tsering, +Pasang Tendi
Crew: Dawa Gelje, Sarki, Mingma Lhakpa, Da'Pasang, Da'Finjo, Karma Ongdi, +Karma Geljen

100% summit success! Lucky, yes, in part, but ultimately everyone who was capable of summiting with high flow oxygen, did, which involves substantial logistics. Congratulations, Scott and everyone. See Scott's 2010 dispatches (despite the 2009 tag).

+ Aconcagua 8000m Preparation Expedition - PH

Can't get to Nepal for a prep expedition? We bring it closer to the Americas... We talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything, on the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain!

7-27 Feb, 21 days -- all trekking and mountain services -- +Jamie McGuinness -- US$3650+~$325
Team: Ken Lofhelm, +Malcolm Nicolson and +"Good Times" Tom Kowpak
Summit: 25 Feb 2010
Safety: no injuries

Lets face it, half the reason to climb Aconcagua is to experience the city of Mendoza which Nat Geo rates it as one of the 10 best cities to visit... We did, and also climbed the mountain. See the detailed Aconcagua debrief and see Jamie's Picasa slide show.

the Aconcagua team

The 2010 Aconcagua team in Penitentes, L-R: Ken, Malcolm, Tom and Jamie - Jamie

2009 Expeditions

- Tukuche 8000m Preparation Expedition - EH-PH

We head to a convenient and straightforward ~7000m peak to discuss and develop skills for climbing 8000m peaks and Everest.

26 Oct-28 Nov, 34 days -- all trekking and mountain services included -- US$5750
Additional prep option: 24-27 Oct, 3 mornings actual training -- Nepal mountain guide -- US$250
Team: Daniel N, Barry Cohen*
Crew: Dawa Gelje, Da'Yula, Pasang,
Summit: no
Safety: no injuries

Well, this trip definitely did not go to plan and my sincere apologies for this. First Phil Crampton was unable to lead it and so two people dropped out. Once up in the mountains the weather didn't cooperate either, with around a metre of snow falling. Despite this the crew (and team) didn't bail, instead stuck it out but getting high was not possible.

+ Monsoon Tukuche Climbing Camp - EH

We have the base camp and permits, you climb how you want.

10 Sept-13 Oct, 34 days -- all trekking and mountain services included -- local guide -- US$5000
Team: +Janne and +Anne-Mari Hyryläinen, Ian Rutherford
Climbing crew: Dawa Gelje, Da'Yula
Kitchen: Kami
Summit: 24 Sept; the north-west summit, not the true summit, but an achievement all the same, given the conditions and the speed they climbed from sea level
Safety: no injuries

An all star crew, even Kami, the cook, has climbed Everest!

+ Manaslu Expedition 8163m - AJ-PH

Manaslu again after our 2008 success! The mountain is only marginally more technical than Cho Oyu but has less reliable weather and other conditions. This is a full guide-assisted expedition with Phil Crampton as guide-manager (bonus, it is $3000 cheaper than Cho Oyu, and free of political troubles too).

30 Aug-23 Oct, 55 days -- all mountain services included -- Phil Crampton -- US$10,500
BC support for small teams: 30 Aug-23 Oct, 55 days -- BC services -- US$ please ask
Team: Brendan Savage, Steve Faluotico, Paul Ilacqua, +Margaret Watroba
Climbing crew: +Pasang Gombu, Tarke, Mindu
Kitchen: Sarki, Da'Pasang, Sherku
BC support: +Samuli Mansikka
Summit: yes, details to come
Safety: no injuries

Follow the Manaslu dispatches!

- Gasherbrum II (and I) Expedition 8035m - Pakistan - AJ-PH

We go to GII and also a back up plan on GI; if conditions are bad on GII then they are likely better on GI.

GII: 6 June-30 July, 55 days -- Phil Crampton -- US$9950
GI-GII: 6 June-13 Aug and 16 June-23 Aug, 69 days -- Phil Crampton -- US$11,950
Team: Mark D, Mark Horrell, Michael O, Ian C, Arian Lemal, Gordon Ferguson***
Crew: Tarke, Pasang Gombu, Temba, Pasang Lama (yes, that is an all-star crew!)
BC-C1 support: Gorgan W (fresh from Cho Oyu)
G1-Broad Peak support: Philippe Gatta**, Sherap Jangbu (climbing #12 and #13...)
Pakistan kitchen crew: Ashed Karim (Head Cook), Ehshan Ullbaig (Assistant Cook), Shezad Alam (Kitchen Assistant), Zakir Hussain (Kitchen Assistant)
Safety: no injuries

No summit, either the wind was howling or it was snowing, see the G2-G1 dispatches page for links and more details.

2009 Gasherbrum Expedition team

L-R: Michael Odell, Arian Lemal, Ian Cartwright, Phil Crampton, Tarke, Mark Horrell, Sherap, Ashad Karim (head cook),
Temba, Shezad Alam, Gorgan, Ehshan Ullbaig (kitchen assistant, with the fingers), Pasang Lama
Philippe Pasang Gomba, Gordon

+ 2009 Everest Expedition - Nepal - PH-AJ

Guide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to safety and success.

Nepal: 9 Apr-5 June, ~58 days -- +Phil Crampton -- US$35,000
Team: Joe Bonner, Valerie Parkinson**, +Pam Westgate, Ian Rogers**
Support crew: Sarki (cook), Dawa Gelje (logistics), Tawa (ABC cook), Pasang Tendi, Da'Pasang, Mingma Lhakpa, +Pasang
Sherpa crew: Pasang Gombu, Tarke, Mindu, +Chewang Palden
Summit: 19 May 2009 Phil Crampton; 21 May Pam Westgate & Chewang Palden
Safety: We could have done better; Valerie has some frostbite on her downhill foot from summit day.
[Joe was evacuated with blood clots in a leg, Pam was evacuated with a possible bleeding ulcer that wasn't and returned to summit]

See the Project Himalaya dispatches link page and also see Phil's dispatches.

+ Everest expedition support

Enjoy quality BC and ABC support with backup built in. This option is only available for teams with previous 8000m experience.

Nepal: 9 Apr-5 June, ~58 days -- Manager: Phil Crampton, Sarki and Dawa Gelje
BC-ABC support: Mike Farris**
Team support: +Scott Woolums guiding +Brian and +Johnny Strang
Crew: +Namgyal (assistant guide), +Temba, Nawang Geden, Pasang Gyelu, +Da'Oangchu, +Jangbu
[Safety: Mike Farris had an epic, watch for the book!]
[Safety: Scott Woolums once again proved is one of the best Everest guides, no dramas and everyone summitted]

2009 Everest Expedition - Tibet - EH

Primarily we are providing professional support for a number of self-guided teams, and also have a small team of climbers with Jamie. If Tibet opens Chomolungma with restrictions we can handle, then we will climb from the north. If it is closed/too complicated, we go south side.

Tibet: 5 Apr-6 June, ~62 days -- Jamie McGuinness -- US$27,500
Nepal backup: 9 Apr-5 June, ~58 days -- Phil Crampton -- US$35,000

With the uncertainty of Tibet opening several climbers and a self-guided team switched to the south side, others cancelled. One team still planned to go but the last, most difficult permit eluded them so there was no expedition.

Shishapangma Expedition support - Tibet

This is a small expedition for independent climbers, ie BC-ABC support only, although good sherpas are available.

Apr-May, 45 days -- BC-ABC support -- US$ please ask
Team: Andrew Lock, Hector Ponce de Leon, Mark Hose
Crew: Kami, Nima Tenzi

Cancelled by Andrew. Initially we planned entry on 9 April and when this was pushed out to 11 April with some uncertainty, and unsure signals from Tibet, Andrew and Hector bailed. As it happened in the end a couple of expeditions entered Tibet on 14 April.

+ Aconcagua Expedition - PH

Project Himalaya runs their first Aconcagua Expedition in preparation for an 8000m Preparation expedition...

7-27 Feb, 21 days -- all trekking and mountain services -- +Jamie McGuinness -- US$3650+~$325
Team: +Klara Holubova
Summit: 19 Feb 2009
Safety: no injuries

Success! See the Aconcagua galleries on this site and also see Jamie's Picasa Gallery.

2008 Expeditions

- 8000m Preparation Expedition - PH-AJ

We head to Kang Guru, a convenient and straightforward 7000m peak to develop skills for climbing 8000m peaks and Everest.

17 Oct-15 Nov, 30 days -- all trekking and mountain services included -- Phil Crampton and Namgyal -- US$5800
Team: Ana-Mari H, Paula C, Beth W, Damien F, Rusty S, Peter, Robert S
Crew: Tarke, Pasang Gombu, Namgyal, reserve Sherku and Sonam Chhiri. Kitchen: Sarki, Sherku, Sonam Chhiri and a local
Summit: no summit
Safety: no injuries

When we have a trip up and people book, we run it. At first it looked as if this expedition would be small, but even in the days just before leaving, we had more last minute bookings, and ended up with a diverse team. See the dispatches page for a summary, and the dispatches.

+ Manaslu 8163m - Nepal - PH-AJ

Let's try Manaslu! The mountain is only marginally more technical than Cho Oyu but has less reliable weather and other conditions. This is a full guide-assisted expedition with Phil Crampton as guide-manager. See Phil's dispatches (link to come).

1 Sept-20 Oct, 50 days -- all mountain services included -- +Phil Crampton -- US$9950
Team: Guntis B, +Valerie Parkinson* (first British woman to summit Manaslu!), Stuart
Crew: +Tarki, Pasang Gombu. Kitchen: Sarki and Mingma Lhakpa
Summit: 5 Oct 2008
Safety: no injuries

We did well! Phil wrote expedition dispatches, and I have added some thoughts too.

+ 2008 Everest Expedition - Nepal - PH

Guide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to safety and success.

Old: 13 Apr-9 June, 58 days -- Jamie McGuinness -- US$25,000
New: 6 Apr-30 May, 55 days -- Jamie McGuinness -- US$32,000 -- 100% all go
Team, see photo below: +David C, Raphael G, Gineth Soto, +Anselm M, James O'L, +Andy Falgate**
Crew: Dawa Gelje, Sarki, Tawa, +Namgyal, Nima Tenzi, +Pasang Gombu, Tarke, Nawang Geden, +Chewang Palden, +Jangbu, Kami, Da'Oangchu, Mindu, Pasang Gyelu, Sonam Chhiri and Mingma Lhakpa
BC support team: Marty Schmidt, Tim, Giovannina
Summits: 20 May 2008, Namgyal Sherpa, while rope-fixing. 21 May 2008, the rest of us.
Safety: no injuries

We climbed Everest from the south side as the Chinese closed the north side due to the Olympic torch. See the dispatches!

Also see the photo gallery, there are three pages of best photos, of the trek, the icefall and the summit climb.

2008 Project himalaya Everest team photo

Our team L-R: Sarki (cook, BC manager), Sonam (new kitchen crew) Dawa (sirdar), Jangbu, Pasang Gombu, Kami, Da'Ongchhu, Tawa (C2 cook), Jamie, Raphael, Nima Tenzi, Andy, Gina, Anselm, James

And on the other side of the chotar: Nawang Geden, David, Pasang Gyelu, Mindu, Tarke, Mingma Lhakpa (kitchen) and Chewang Palden, missing Namgyal

Photo by Gombu with Jamie's camera on a tripod

2007 Expeditions

- Shishapangma - Tibet - PH

We know the mountain and it makes a great alternative to the crowded Cho Oyu in this season. Seriously, in the 2006 Fall season there were 550+ climbers and sherpas on Cho Oyu — think about that! We will be posting dispatches.

1 Sept-16 Oct, 46 days -- includes Lhasa -- Jamie McGuinness -- US$10,500
Partner trek option: BC or ABC option $2750-3150
Team: Janet L, Joe C, Martin D**, Clive Jones**, Alan Arnette, Francis St P, Joe F, Gordon F**
Trekker: Peggy C
Climbing sherpas: Dawa Gyalgen, Da'Yula, Nima Tenzi, Namgyal, Pasang Gombu, Dawa Gyalgen, Nawang Geden and Zangbu
Cooks: Sarki and Tawa
Tibetan kitchen hands: Dorje, Lotto, Karsang, Norbu and Nawang Tseri
Safety: no injuries

See our dispatches from the mountain!

Yuck, seriously windy weather lasted the whole expedition and so nobody summitted Shishapangma this season (and very few teams even summitted Cho Oyu). We tried, really tried, but the winds just did not stop. We had a really fun expedition all the same.

- Shishapangma Skills Expedition - Tibet - PH

This is our training trip for Everest 2008. Sure, we attempt Shishapangma with good support, and we also discuss everything Everest and get you familiar with everything you need for Everest.

1 Sept-16 Oct, 46 days -- includes Lhasa -- Eric Remza with Namgyal -- US$10,500
Team: Paul A, James N, Anne P, Tristan B, Ursula M
Doctor: Jenny H
Crew: above
Safety: no injuries

Everyone was included in the fun - and the bad winds. Building up to Everest showed some weaknesses with several climbers, but also Shishapangma didn't let us truly test everyone to 8000m.

- Shishapangma BC-ABC services

We provide support you can trust with backup built it.

2 Sept-16 Oct, 45 days -- ask for details
Team: Andrew L**, Julie A, Mark Hose**.
(The overland team was: Mark, Andrew, Julie, Tristan, Francis and Paul, and the sherpa crew)
[Safety: no injuries]

I really feel for Andrew Lock, who is back after several previous attempts on the mountain. As several others have written while sometimes Shishapangma's central summit is considered straightforward (and Andrew has climbed that), there really is only one true summit, the main, and that has challenged the best climbers time and time again.

I also feel for Mark Hose, on his second attempt. Logistics proved tough on his first expedition last year. This time he seemed to have these sorted out, only to be thwarted at the same height by that weather.

- Gasherbrum II Expedition 8035m - Pakistan - PH

We also have a support trek. Follow us live, see the dispatches...

18 June-11 Aug, 55 days -- Jamie McGuinness -- US$8500
Team: Clive*** and Catherine*** C, Ian Rogers*, Kees Terhell*, Tia Tracey, David B, Adrian H and Soren G
Climbing crew: Jehan Baig/Beg, Merhban, Ibrahim and Wolam Nabi
Kitchen crew: Mehdi, Ashraf, Hameed and another Ibrahim
Safety: no injuries

See the expedition dispatches. This was a difficult expedition. The weather was extremely unkind with snow roughly every three days, and it takes two-three days for the avalanche danger to clear so we never had a chance even to get high on the mountain. With part of the team wanting to push harder, they arrived at Camp 2 but a team one day ahead set an avalanche off that killed two climbers. A couple of people had permits for Gasherbrum I as backup but here again we helped bury one person (not from our team) and with other complications we ended the expedition.

The Gasherbrum II expedition team and crew
Standing L-R: Clive, Humphrey (climbing partially independently), Ian, Ashraf, Hameed, Ibrahim, Tia, Jahan Beg, David, Jamie and Merhban
Squatting, L-R: Catherine, Mah Di, Adrian, Soren (front), Kees, Mehdi and Wolam Nabi - photo by Jamie

+ 2007 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH w DCXP

Guide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, comprehensive and reliable with rescue planned for, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to safety and success.

Follow our dispatches live from the mountain!

14 Apr-9 June, 57 days, includes Lhasa -- +Jamie McGuinness with +Namgyal Sherpa -- US$24,500
Team: +Philippe G, +Kirsti Samson, +Kevin C, Gavin Attwood, Johan
Climbing sherpas: +Namgyal, Pasang Gombu, ++Ngima Chhiri, Kami, +Mindu, Nawang Geden, Dawa Gyalgen
Cooks: Sarki and Tawa
Tibetan kitchen hands: Dorje, Chudim, Lotto and Da'Nuru
Summits: 24 May, 2007, Ngima Chhiri and Namgyal. Then 5 June, Ngima Chhiri again, and the rest of us
Safety: no injuries

5 June 2007, Kevin on the summit of Everest - photo by Ngima Chhiri

- Lhakpa Ri 7045m & North Col 7010m - Tibet - PH

In the shadow of Everest we climb high!

15 Apr-6 or 9 May, 22 days -- expedition-style -- Jamie McGuinness and Namgyal Sherpa -- US$4950
Team: Marlon Saldin, Shehan Cooray, Phil G
Safety: Phil tripped and fractured his shin bone just before Interim Camp, but being the tough soldier he is, hobbled out thinking it was shin splits!

2006 Expeditions

- Shishapangma Expedition 8027m - PH

Our 2005 expedition was very successful with 6 out of 8 members up to the Central summit, and our Cho Oyu plus Shishapangma team also succeeding on both peaks. This season we want to climb the central summit and also some of us get to the main summit. Last year we were very close, this year we will succeed! Shishapangma is a straightforward mountain, with an exciting semi-technical summit day.

Lhasa start: 30 Aug-15 Oct, 47 days -- Guide manager: Jamie McGuinness -- US$10,500 + $600 safety deposit
Team: Clive Jones*, Walter S, Hans Hurvig.
Sherpas: Dawa Gelje and Namgyal. Kitchen: Sarki, Dorje and Da'Nuru.
Safety: no injuries

Read the dispatches and see the photos. We didn't summit due to avalanche danger on summit day.

+ Shishapangma BC-ABC services

We provide support you can trust with backup built it.

2 Sept-15 Oct, 44 days -- ask for details
Team 1: +Inaki Ochoa de Olza, Corinne Keller**, Bob Jen.
Team 2: Mark Hose*.
[Safety: no injuries]

Read the dispatches and see the photos. Inaki climbed the Main summit by a new route in difficult conditions, making it his 11th 8000m summit, only three more to go. It was quite a climbing feat by any standards, and all the more so because he climbed in atrocious conditions.

+ 2006 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH w DCXP

This year our service will be guided with full support, comprehensive and reliable with rescue planned for, plenty of oxygen, email and many other services too. We begin with a trek on the south side of Everest then head to Tibet 'late', but can still summit as early as 13 May - or as late as 6 June.

3 Apr-10 June, 69 days -- full support -- Guide-manager: +Scott Woolums with assistance from +Jamie -- US$22,000 -- expedition full
Team: +Fredrik Strang (hoping for 7 summits on 7 continents in 7 months), Marnie Pearsall, +Laurie Bagley, Mike Rapoport
Mike Kodas, +Anne Parmenter, Bill Driggs, I�igo de Pineda**, +Chris Klinke***, Kevin Moore, Hugo Searle** and +Johan F.
ABC support: Carolyn Moreau.
Sherpas: +Dawa Gelje, +Tarke, +Pasang Gomba, +Pasang Gelu, +Chewang Palden, +Kami Dorje, +Mindu and +Nim Chiri;
not allowed to summit but capable: Nima Tenzi, Pura Gyelu, Pemba Chiri and Pemba Gomba. Pasang Dorje returned early sick with a stomach ulcer
Kitchen crew: Temba, Sarki, Norbu, Tsering Dorje, Da'Nuru, Namgya, Da'Chungda.
Safety: no injuries on our team. It was a bad year for many other expeditions with nine deaths and many, many cases of frostbite on the north side.

What an expedition - we had a great team of people, see our expedition dispatches. Our expedition had no injuries while there were nine deaths on the North Side. Our sherpa team helped with rescues but otherwise steered clear of trouble.

+ 2006 Everest Peace Expedition - EH and independent

Spreading peace and religious tolerance around the world, sponsored by Panasonic Toughbooks and others. Yes, this will be a high profile expedition! Jamie is the climbing director, and the Atheist climber. We have a Palestinian climber, Ali Bushnaq and two Israelis, Dudu and Mica. Gautam, the Hindu on the team, hopes to become the first Indian to complete the seven summits.

4 Apr-10 June, 68 days -- Leader: Lance Trumbull -- Climbing leader: + Jamie McGuinness
Team: Gautam Patil, Ali Bushnaq, +David "Dudu" Yifrah (2nd Israeli to summit), +Mica Yaniv (3rd Israeli to summit), +Tonya Riggs, +Selebelo Selamolela (2nd black African to summit), +Brad Clement and +Namgyal Sherpa.
Summit: 18 May, 2006
Sherpas: +Dawa G, +Da'Yula, +Lhakpa, Da'Wangchu, Pur Tenji, Sange, Nuri Jangbu (returned early) and +Namgyal above.
Crew: Merman, Tawa, Dorje, Norbu, Norbu, Karsang and Nawang Tseri.
Safety: Selebelo received some frostbite. I (Jamie) should not have let him climb, so my mistake. However he did summit, the 2nd black African to summit Everest. Micha also got frostbitten toes, but his own fault as in Kathmandu I clearly told him that his boots were not warm enough.

See the Everest Peace Project website. Also see Jamie's dispatches relating to both expeditions, and great summit photos.

**The DVD is out and it is inspiring, amazingly professional and a great tale - worth watching! See the EPP site.

Dawa (centre) and a happy team on top.
L-R: Chewang Palden, Pasang Gomba, Kami Dorje, behind standing Anne Parmenter, Dawa Gelje, Mindu Tsheri, Tarke,
five out of the eight sherpas that summitted

2005 Expeditions

+ Shishapangma Expedition 8027m - PH

Normal North-east ridge route. Jamie has been there twice before to the Central summit and really wants to get to true summit. We can do it, given good conditions! As an option Cho Oyu afterwards is possible.

4 Sep-18 Oct, 45 days -- Guide manager: ++Jamie McGuinness -- US$9600 + $600 safety deposit
Lhasa option start dates: 30 Aug-18 Oct, 50 days -- $10,500
Team: +Ed Kowalski, +Mike Teger, +Greg Long, Bob Breivogel, +Chris Klinke**, +Warwick Barnes**, +Scott Streett and Simona Pogac
Sherpas: +Dawa Gelje, +Da'Yula, +Nima Tenzi, +Pasang Gyelu
Kitchen: Tawa, Tshering Dorje and Dorje
Shishapangma summits (Central Summit): 2 Oct 2005, Jamie, Scott, Ed, Mike, Chris, Da'Yula, Dawa Gelje
3 Oct 2005: Jamie, Greg, Nima Tenzi
4 Oct 2005: Warwick, Pasang Gyelu
Cho Oyu extension: Chris Klinke**
Safety: no injuries

Most people summitted, very successful and safe - see the Shishapangma expedition dispatches.

Standing L-R: Tshering Dorje, Tawa, Jamie, Dorje, Scott Streett, Dawa Gelje, Greg, Ed K, Pasang, Dr Warwick
Below: Mike Teger, Bob B, Simona, Da'Yula, Nima

+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PH

Cho Oyu is HIGH and often called 'easy' but there are plenty of significant challenges. Our guided expedition has strong support and good backup; if you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get and we provide it!

30 Aug-13 Oct, 45 days -- guide-assisted -- Guide-manager: + Andrew Lock -- US$10,000
Team: +Inigo and Billi Bierling
Crew: +Dawa Chhiri
Kitchen: Temba and Da'Nuru
Cho Oyu summit: 25 Sept 2005
Shishapangma team: +Andrew Lock, +I�igo de P*
Shishapangma summit (Central Summit): 8 Oct 2005
Safety: no injuries

L-R: Dawa Chhiri, Mike Norris, Seba Illingworth, Andrew Lock, Inigo and Billi Bierling
(Temba and Da'Nuru make up the rest of the team)

+ Cho Oyu expedition 8201m - Tibet

Great base camp support. Sure, you can find cheaper but we offer more safety and more flexibility, and once the differences are counted, we are almost comparable in price.

30 Aug-13 Oct, 45 days -- BC-ABC support -- US$5500
Team: Seba Illingworth and +Mike Norris
Crew: above
[Safety: no injuries however Seba broke his ankle six? weeks before the expedition and once on the mountain found this was an issue and returned early]

They climbed independently but shared base camp with Andrew Lock's team.

+ Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH

We are offering comprehensive and reliable BC-ABC services with rescue planned for, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services too.

3/4 Apr-7 June, 65 days -- Jamie McGuinness -- US$10,000 + oxygen + sherpa
Team: +Dr Julian, Moe Memon**, Sukhwinder Sukhi and +Paul Boslooper
Crew: Duncan Chessell, +Dawa Gelje, +Namgyal, +Da'Wangchu
Kitchen: Temba, Dorje and Da'Nuru
Summits: 30 May 2005 Julian, Dawa and Da'Wangchu, 4 June 2005 Paul and Namgyal
Safety: no injuries although there was some drama when Sukhi said she would "summit or die". Luckily she did neither. In the media she claimed frostbite but instead it was crushed toes due to her boots being too small.

Success! See the dispatches for this expedition. And more importantly, we lost no members to sickness, we had no frostbite, and were the only expedition to finish with one more member than we started with! Special thanks to Doctor Julian, who did such a great and much appreciated job both with our and for other teams.

Julian on top of the world - photo by Dawa

2004 Expeditions

 + Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PH and support only

Wanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our Fall climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort, but with more freedom than any other foreign company gives. We think innovatively and differently from most other companies and have the energy to get you there. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get.

5 Sep-19 Oct, 45 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $9900
Team: Arnauld DF
Crew: +Dawa Gelje
Kitchen: Tawa, Da'Nuru and Dorje
BC-ABC support: +Andrew Lock, Evan E*, +Zac Z, Chris, George, Mick, Nic.
Jamie summit: 30 September 2004.
Safety: no injuries among the PH team, although Arnauld was evacuated with pulmonary odema, I (Jamie) carried oxygen everywhere once he mentioned he had had HAPE no less than three times previously!?!.

See the dispatches for some great photos of the expedition.

Gurla Mandhata 7728m - Tibet

Real exploration! We acclimatize with a kora of Kailash, said to cleanse the sins of a lifetime, then head to the mountain. Apparently it is 'straightforward' but we don't know much else.

6 Sep-16 Oct -- Jamie McGuinness -- $7728
Status: expedition cancelled due to demand for Cho Oyu.

+ Broad Peak 8046m - Pakistan - for another company

Jamie guided Field Touring Alpine's Broad Peak Expedition.

16 June-5 Aug, 51 days. Service: professionally lead by Jamie McGuinness. Cost: $6150 - budget price, budget service.
Team: +Pierre-O W, +Olivier D, +Denis C, Fabian A, Yannick, Amanda, Haruki, Mike Farris*, Malte Hagge, +Gordon Ferguson*, Chilly C.
Summit: 27 June 2004
Safety: no frostbite injuries but we had a major, successful rescue of Fabian and Yannick. Field Touring did not provide oxygen or a PAC bag.

Success! See the dispatches for a diary of the expedition, also see their Karakorum8000 website.

*Jamie was the first kiwi (New Zealander) to climb the true summit of Broad Peak!

+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PH

Wanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our spring climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort, but with more freedom than any other foreign company gives. We think innovatively and differently from most other companies and have the energy to get you there. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get.

11 Apr-25 May, 45 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $9900
Climbing sherpas: +Dawa Gelje, +Namgyal
Kitchen: Temba, Topke, Da'Nuru and Karsang
Team: +Catherine Pye*, Clive Carlyle*, Mary Adams*, Warwick Barnes*, Thomas Gygax, Patrick Hoss, Jerry Clayton*, Georgia Briscoe, Moe Memon*
Summit: 14 May 2004
Safety: no injuries.

See dispatches for a diary of the expedition. This expedition was frustrated by sickness, Cryptosporidium (or Cyclospora, I forget which) from the Tingri water, and we worked out the cure a little late, despite the fact we had two doctors with us. Looking back on the expedition, while there were some strong members, it was a more diverse team than we were used to.

Dawa, Namgyal and Jamie on the summit of Cho Oyu - Photo by Catherine?

2003 Expeditions

+ Shishapangma Expedition 8012m - PH

Jamie has been there before and this time is serious about getting to the true summit. We can do it!

31 Aug-11 Oct, 42 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $8800
Team: +Richard Pattison, +Nigel Finnerty**, +Nicola Tsang*, Phil Mansbridge, Kyle Richardson and David Kisler
Crew: +Dawa Gelje, +P Pasang
Kitchen: +Temba, Topke and Karsang
Summit: 6 Oct 2003 (Central summit)
Safety: no injuries.

Success! And we were the only commercial group that made it to the top. Naturally we were aiming for the true (Main) summit, but only made the 8008m Central summit, as did a bunch of notable mountaineers who REALLY, REALLY wanted to get that true summit. Conditions were too tough. Shishapangma is still waiting its first Australian summit.

See the Shishapangma Expedition photo galleries of this trip.

click for photo gallery. L-R: Richard, Temba, Dawa, Jamie, Pasang, Nicola, Phil, Nigel

With the summit cake: Richard, Temba, Dawa, Jamie (bearded), Pasang, Nicola, Phil (yellow jacket), Nigel (red jacket)

+ Everest Expedition 8848m - EH

See www.NIEverest.com - Success! And we have a photo gallery too.

Team: Richard Dougan (leader), +Terence 'Banjo' Bannon and David Sharp**.
Crew: Ang Furi Sherpa and +Jamie McG
Kitchen: Temba Sherpa, Karsang, Topke and Dorje
Summit: 31 May 2003
Safety: Jamie worked as a climbing sherpa so had no say in the major decisions. David Sharp lost a third of a toe to frostbite and Richard Dougan's superficial frostbite recovered.

Jamie organized the Nepal-Tibet side of things for Richard Dougan, Jamie also came along as climbing sherpa.

Dave and Richard made an attempt on 22 May without sherpas and were turned back around the second step by frostbite. It was a nasty day to try to summit.

Banjo and myself waited until the very last moment for some perfect weather and summitted 31 May 2003.

See the Everest Expedition photo gallery series.

click for the Everest Expedition photo gallery


+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PH

Wanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our spring climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort, but with more freedom than any other foreign company gives. We think innovatively and differently from most other companies and have the energy to get you there. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get...

14 Apr-28 May, 45 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $8800/€10,000
Team: Tony Bragg, +David Sharp*
BC-ABC support: Caroline and Allain, David Lim
Crew: +Tshering Bhote and Topke? and Dorje?
Summit: 14 May 2002
Safety: no injuries

On the guided trip Tony came down with an unexpected but recurring problem and quickly decided when feeling sick there are better, more comfortable things to do in life. Myself and Dave summitted on 14 May, as did Tshering, our cook (who has also climbed Everest).

We said we would run a guided expedition no matter how many bookings we got. We ran this expedition with only two bookings. If we say we are going, we will!

We also provided BC-ABC support for a few people: David Lim tried Shishapangma, getting to approx 7700m in deep snow and on Cho Oyu, climbing on a difficult day, got to approx 7800m before the steep fixed ropes took their toll, a great effort by someone who only has power equivalent to one and a half legs. Allain and Caroline suffered some bad luck, first Caroline's face swelled badly after some sun and then Allain found it difficult to acclimatize. So while none of our ABC service clients summitted, we provided good, flexible service that everyone appreciated.


- Arun Treks & Expeditions USA Cho Oyu 8201m - PH

A private group partly sponsored and writing for National Geographic Adventure magazine. The article appeared in the Oct-Nov 2002 issue, a story of Mike getting to know his sister - or rather not really getting to know her.

Dates: Sept-early Oct. Guide-manager: Jamie McGuinness. Route: standard.
Team: Mike Finkel, Diana Finkel*, Ben Woodbeck* and Beth Wald.
Crew: P Pasang
Cook: Bagh Bir
Safety: no injuries.

We tried, and tried, but the continuous high winds conspired against us (and AAI, Adventure Consultants, Mark and Kathy's team etc). So after eight nights at Camp 2 or so we descended for the best ABC party ever, read the article...

- Noshaq Expedition 7492m - Pakistan - private

Afghanistan's highest mountain, but ours was one of the first serious attempts from the Pakistan side.

Dates: late June-mid Aug. organized by Martin and Karl, I simply joined the trip.
Team members: Jamie, Murray, Karl, Martin** and Sam**.
Safety: no injuries.

We didn't summit. The account is is the Trip diaries section and there's a day by day itinerary too.

+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PH

Wanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our spring climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get... All staff have worked/summitted on the mountain previously.

Dates: 15 Apr - 29 May. Service: guide-assisted. Guide-manager: +Jamie McGuinness. Cost: $8500.
Team members: Bill Miller, +Bill Lhotta, Bengt, +Hugo Searle* and +Steve Lipsher
Trekking: Betsy
Crew: +P Pasang, +Dendi, +Namgyal (as cook!)
Summit: 14 May 2001
Safety: no injuries

Success in challenging conditions! And no injuries. See the account... and some pictures.


+ Shishapangma 8012m

Although we had plenty of expeditions on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma (successful and without injury), none required a western-managed service so Jamie climbed Shishapangma unsupported and alone.

Dates: end of Aug - early Oct. +Jamie McGuinness.
Summit: 29 Sept 2000 (Central summit only).
Safety: no injuries.

See the diary and there is also a quick day by day itinerary.


+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m

Wanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as big mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our expedition is for climbers who don't want a their hands held by a mountain guide the whole way.

Dates: end of Aug - early Oct. +Jamie McGuinness.
Summit: 26 Sept 1999.
Safety: no injuries.

Amazingly enough we had several groups amounting to around 16 climbers. All expeditions summitted with at least several members. Jamie summited without sherpa support or kitchen. See the Controversy clouds diary.

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