Inspiration and memories

Relax with some Trans-Himalayan inspiration. Jamie's carefully selected photos of most previous treks are organized into Flickr collections by region/topic and alternatively simply by albums, more in the works too. Lose yourself!

All Flickr Albums — region/topic collections

Kanchenjunga North-South 6k

Epic! Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal and on this special version of the trek, we walk up Jamie's favourite very high viewpoint of the region.

25 Oct-20 Nov, 27 days — lodge trek — Bire Tamang
status: confirmed

More soon.

Rupina La, Tsum & Manaslu

Opening with the wilderness camping Rupina La route in (avoiding roads) then we'll continue in lodges to delightful Tsum then take our time and get off the beaten track around the classic Manaslu Circuit.

8 Oct-8 Nov, 32 days — camping+lodges — Jamie McGuinness
status: full

Wow, this turned out to be a fab trek. After scouring weather forecasts, I bailed on the camping trek section, so we began with a drive to Barpak and then drove up to the viewpoint. We had a great mountain panorama but soon it clouded in and for the next few days, we could see cloud sitting on the Rupina La, no views even if no rain either, so the decision was the correct one.

En route to the main circuit, we met no other trekkers, and even for the first few days on the circuit, hit a (permit) window with very few other trekkers, at least until we were in the upper section of the Tsum Valley. This area really is a delight, both scenic and cultural. Sadly, where we camped in Chumling in 2023 had been hit by a mudslide from the late Sept 2024 rains but only a wall was knocked down and the tons of mud was being carried out. So, the main structure was not too damaged. The delightful wooden lodge nearest to us in Chokang Paro in 2023 had burned down and the owners had rebuilt using a quick prefab system, which was quite OK.

The whole experience was a highlight, cultural and scenic. From cold, drafty Mu Gompa, we ascended to the lake above, which would make a great camping spot. We made it to Lungdang Gompa this time with a sweaty trek up to be rewarded with an incredible panorama, mountains almost entirely surrounding us. The walk further up the valley is tough though, requiring a guide who knows the way and some camping. The gompa is far enough for most.

Then we split, the porters and most of the team taking the usual trails back to the circuit (although via Ripchet) while Jim, Bali and myself took the adventurous way that I swore twice to never do again. In 2023, Bali, Justin, Bruce and Kaji had a tough trek over but this time Bali knew where to camp. We climbed up to Chumchet and the last lodge/homestay then continued to camp near the cave. The sheerness of the hillsides was staggering, and then the panorama from the Mandala viewpoint even more so. The surprise for Bali was that the trail improvements didn't end there, rather continued down to Dorjan Kharka. While the trail is still steep, it is no longer as treacherous, at least in good weather. 

More thoughts later!

Shey Festival

Every 12 years, there is a colourful festival held at Shey in Upper Dolpo. Thriving villages feature on our adventurous route in and the oh-so-turquoise Phoksundo Lake on the exit.

12 Aug-13 Sept, 33 days — camping
Members: Jim Twiss********, Nadia H, Kevin and Peter
Crew: Bali ...

After date changes, the weather was great and the whole experience wonderful. The small lesson is ambitious treks are best with previous Nepal trek experience. Jim commented that Dolpo is best in this August-early September season, although the proviso is be prepared for possible week of rough weather, if you are unlucky. He loved the crops in the fields and the relative warmth.

I will explain more later.

2024 Zanskar GHT *exploratory

India GHT exploration; we traverse the Zanskar range then cross the Great Himalaya Range to Spiti and road-trip out to Shimla. Our unique route is a medley of striking landscapes, mesmerizing panoramas, remote villages and sublime big sky wilderness.

18 Aug-4 Oct, 48 days — Jamie McGuinness
Members: David W***, Martin Cook**, Greg Babbage, Martin R**, Peter M**
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden and Ram Lal with 13 horses
Logistics: Lobsang

Success in crossing the pass, and oh, that late September weather was perfect. It was a trek not without challenges though ...

Wild Yak 6k

In 2023, my passion for the HIGH area between Tso Kar and Tso Moriri was reignited by finding a wild yak graveyard and some straightforward mountains begging to be climbed. And those panoramic landscapes - oh!

17 July-13 Aug, 28 days — ++++Jamie McGuinness
Members: ++Mike Farris****, ++Will Bright**, +Andre Giguere** and +UH
Crew: +Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden and Ram Lal with 12 horses
Logistics: Lobsang

High! Perhaps a little high for a couple of trekkers, however we did summit a bunch of 6000m peaks ...

Markha & Dzo Jongo

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb a 6218m peak. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

2-16 July, 15 days — caravan style — Kunga
Members: Chris G, Bill B, Will D
Crew: Kunga (guide), Dorjee, Chanden and Ram Lal with 12 horses
Logistics: Lobsang

A great trek even if only some people climbed the mountain. More importantly, they will be back!

Ladakh Peaks & Passes

This is our unique take on the classic Markha trek finishing with our delightful wildlife and wilderness route. Bonus, a 6218m straightforward peak!

2-16 July, 15 days — caravan style — Kunga
Member: Jim D with the above

Kanchenjunga North-South

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best alpine trekking in Nepal. We have this group fixed departure and can arrange private trips too - what suits you?

18 Apr-11 May, 24 days — lodge trek — Bire Tamang
Members: Carol Boyle, Gary Jones
Crew: Bire Tamang and 2 porters

... We had wonderful weather – sunny every morning until we got to the passes. The old growth forest was wonderful. Absolutely beautiful views of Kanchenjunga. It did cloud over a bit in the afternoon and on the trip down to Ghunsa it started to snow at 3pm. No wind and it was relatively warm, we all had rain gear on and with the rhododendrons in bloom it was quite pretty. We even had thunder and lightning which is incredibly rare in a snow storm – blew out a cell phone tower so no communication for a number of days. Just before the first pass, we got a glimpse of Everest then it socked in so we didn’t head up to SBC – I had a cough so had planned on not going anyway. The rhododendron forest was magic, low mist and flowers out everywhere. For the last two days it poured rain just after we got to the huts so we escaped the worst.

All in all it was a great trip. Bire, Des and Porba were great, Bire made sure we were moving slowly on the way up which suited me very well as there was always time to take photos and I never felt I was being pushed beyond my limits. No injuries, no blisters. Food was mostly fine, very good in a few places, especially the momo that Bire and Des made for me – delicious. I felt very looked after. There were few people on the trail and I loved wandering through the forests, spotting signs of wildlife – martin, jackal and wild cat we think. Did see blue sheep and a pika but nothing else.

- Carol Boyle

The trek was brilliant despite being a small group! The trek was made so by Bire and the porters who were a pleasure to trek with. Bire is very amiable and professional.

The trek is so different from the Everest area and I enjoyed the remoteness, different scenery and lack of trekkers!

- Gary Jones

Kanchenjunga exploration *private

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal. We can arrange both private trips and group fixed departures - what suits you?

Nov — Bali Lopchan
Team: Luke & Becky, Bali and Kaji

Howdy Jamie - just wanted to say thank you for getting us hooked up with Bali (and getting things arranged through Himalayan trails) for our Kanchenjunga trek. He is a great guide sirdar, and we had an amazing time. It seemed the stars aligned for us at every turn. I should also mention you have a great reputation- whenever your name was mentioned, there were nods of appreciation and praise. We’re grateful for your help.

- Luke H

Kanchenjunga North-South 6k

Epic! Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal and on this special version of the trek, we walk up Jamie's favourite very high viewpoint of the region.

29 Oct-24 Nov, 27 days — lodge trek — Bire Tamang — full
Members: Phil Willington**, Kelvin Chen**, Andre G, Vicente L & Carolina H, Angel I-R and Herman F
Crew: Bire Tamang and Sona and 5 porters

... Our trip was amazing with a very mixed group in the 59-69 age category and we all got on extremely well. This was an ideal age group for me, since I wasn’t much slower than most of the “youngsters”, and was ahead of C on most days although we had some enjoyable time together bringing up the rear of the pack.

I had a great 70th birthday bash at Kambachen on the way to the north BC with the porters joining in the celebration with a cake, several renditions of Happy Birthday and some wild hybrid mangle Nepalese and western dancing styles in the tiny dining area. The host family joined in the fun to make it a special night for me. It was a great excuse for the porters and our hosts to have a bit of fun in these harsh places.

We missed the 6,000 metre viewpoint since the lodge at the North Base Camp was unexpectedly already closed for the winter, so we went to the BC on a long 9 hour walk from Lonak and back in a day. I wasn’t disappointed since the 6,000 metre outlook wasn’t the main objective for me, which was to just get back to the Himalayas at least one last time when the prospect seemed impossible only 18 months ago. I’m sure it would have been great to see Kanchenjunga from this extra high view point, but what we did see was certainly good enough for me and we had great weather to make it so much better. ...

Bire was a great guide and I have renamed him Mr “No Problem” since he coped amazingly well with all the unexpected twists and turns on a trip of this nature. Sona was a true gentleman and was one of the most polite, courteous, attentive, thoughtful and generous people I have ever had the good fortune to meet. They were both very considerate of my age and knee circumstances and helped provide a great trip for the enjoyment of all of us trekkers, complimented by your perfect acclimatisation plan for the high elevations we got to.

So all in all, the trip was a triumph for me, with Kumbhakarna (phew, no wonder they also call it Jannu) being my new favourite mountain. I could have looked at it for hours.

Thanks for letting me experience the enjoyment of this amazing trip. It was a privilege to get to this place which is so inaccessible and rarely visited to add to the incredible beauty of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.

Phil Willington

First of all, it was a very nice surprise to unexpectedly meet you and Esther in Kathmandu ... I very much enjoyed our various discussions and the opportunity to meet you both in person.

Before I start about the trek itself, I must first thank you for adjusting the originally proposed date of the trek and then considering my request to “spice” it up a bit. ...

The 6k ridge climb that you proposed from Pangpema to get a better view of the north face of Kanchenjunga would have been spectacular (as well as a real fitness test) but unfortunately did not happen for logistical reasons. However, I see that it is now included in the Oct 2024 departure itinerary, so obviously is seen as a worthy add-on to the basic trek route.

Overall the trek was excellent and pretty much exactly what I expected. I really appreciated the lack of crowds / helicopters, the more basic trails, even the more basic lodges. The scenery was exactly what I was after and I found that in some ways the views were even more impressive than in the Everest area. The Jannu viewpoint was an unexpected highlight. Some specific comments:

Leadership (Bire)
 - I found Bire to be an excellent leader, easy to communicate with, and always good company to be around

 - when decisions had to be made (particularly with modifying the itinerary) he listened carefully to everyone before a decision was made, but I never had any doubt that he would not have permitted us to make a poor decision

 - he was very supportive of each trekker (we all had a few individual issues) and I knew he was quietly monitoring our wellbeing at all times

Leadership (Sona)
 - Sona has to be one of the kindest, most gentle people I have ever met

 - he most often led the group and was an excellent pacesetter

 - he worked tirelessly at meal breaks

 - his English will need to improve if he is to eventually step up to be a full guide, although I think he understood a lot more than we realised

Earthquake - we had no idea there was an earthquake in central/western Nepal until 2 days or so after it happened, but appreciated that the Kathmandu office quickly sent an email to our families letting them know we were safe when this was requested through Bire

Trekkers - we were an eclectic but cohesive group, perhaps aided by the closeness in our ages

Philip Willington Birthday
 - early on in the trek I spoke to Bire about Philip’s 70th birthday and he willingly organised a birthday cake (which followed us around due to itinerary modifications)
 - what I did not anticipate was that the lodge owners, guides, porters, etc... would participate in a full on birthday celebration, which made Philip’s birthday very memorable

Acclimatisation
 - in one work -- perfect
 - as far as I know no one had any issues (not even a mild headache)

Accommodation
 - the standard was about what I expected, perhaps even a bit better some nights, but overall no complaints

 - while not luxurious, our yak dung plastered, extremely cold lodge at Ramche will be remembered long after I have forgotten staying in any 5 star accommodation!

Food
 - this was my first teahouse trek, so the food arrangements (ordering off a menu) were very different to what I had experienced before (everyone served same food, no choice)

 - overall the food quality was OK (not quite as good as my previous treks) with a lack of fresh vegetables compared to what I had experienced in the past

Improvements a:
Soup at dinner - this may sound minor, but I would have appreciated having a small bowl of soup (along with something else) at every dinner when at an altitude >3500m and would have willingly paid a bit more for this b:

“Marshalling the Troops”

1. We often waited 10-15 minutes in the morning (in the cold) past the time when we were meant to leave

2. Conversely on the trail during breaks we were often not given any notice before the guides put on their packs and started walking

3. I would have appreciated having notice of when we were going to leave (ie at 730 or in 2 minutes) and then stuck to that

The improvements are minor points. Overall I found the trek to have been excellent and it will certainly always be a memorable experience for me.

Andre Giguere

Tsum & Manaslu Wild

Tsum is a sacred beyul, a "hidden valley of happiness" and simply wonderful trekking. We'll explore to the heads of the valley then, after more adventurous trails, continue around the classic Manaslu circuit. Unlike most, this is a full camping trek, woo-hoo!

8 Oct-10 Nov, 34 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness
Members: Paul K*******, Bruce Utsey****, Virginia Hill***, Phil Whitwell*****, Jim R*****, Justin H, Kees Terhell******* (and Esther)
Crew: Bali, Aiteram, Mangal, Dawa (cook), Ang Kami, Kaji (lunch carrier), Abiral, Tara, Tenzing, Samir Lopchan (egg porter) and 4 horsemen and 18-10 mules

Wow, the Tsum Valley impressed as did parts of the Manaslu Circuit however the days camping in this region are coming to a close.

Tsum is a true beyul, or sacred hidden valley, and lives up to its name with charming, mostly self-sufficient locals, picturesque villages and no killing of animals in the valley. It is also stunning, a steep sided valley with shining snow capped mountains towering above and sometimes unexpected mountain views. We had planned to explore the valleys above Mu Gompa (continuing our 2007 exploration) however the locals suggested not going to the top of the passes with Tibet as China has checkposts on the very top, and then we were spared the choice of exploring the valleys as it snowed. This melted quickly at lower elevations but not higher up (as we were later to find on the Larkya La too). Our second planned exploration was thwarted by a landslide so, instead, we headed back to the Manaslu Circuit a few days early.

Paul had had a swollen leg for some of this section, cause unknown, and as it continued to worsen, he was evacuated. Ever philosophical, he took this in his stride.

Bruce and Justin with Bali and Kaji took the "shortcut" from Chumling to Bihi (ie Tsum to Manaslu), and found it tough and hair-raising. The locals mentioned the trail had been improved from our 2001 and 2007 learning experiences, which at that time was truly heinous, only a boot width wide and no actual construction (except a ladder in one delicate spot), and indeed now there is a lightly constructed trail however Bruce was still in awe of the exposure. This is not a route to be taken lightly and absolutely avoid in any conditions other than perfect weather.

The team continued to the Manaslu Circuit and almost immediately left the main trail for peaceful Serang Gompa, a stiff climb but with rewarding views of Shringi Himal. Another scenic detour followed soon after, to Hinang Gompa with Himal Chuli and Ngadi Chuli as the mountain stars. These side trips were highlights and are a real contrast to the almost viewless main forest trail that nearly all trekkers take for this section.

It is from Lho (and Hinang) that the awe-inspiring mountains views restart and continue all the way to Bimtang. We also struck harvest gold in the middle villages but in Sama and Samdo, it was already cold although gloriously fine. We can confirm the lake that mysteriously appeared on the latest GHT map does not exist and that it is really tough to reach the various Tibet border pillars from Samdo, probably not worth attempting again (in 2007 we camped almost a week up there).

This trek was the end of an era in a couple of ways. This was probably the last semi-exploratory full camping trip we will run in Nepal. While the mules carried with unvoiced complaints, it is now too much to ask of porters for our wildest explorations now. In the Manaslu region, the lodges are better than ever and with some offering "cottages", these are essentially better than tents, and were not completely full everywhere either (my biggest worry). I have a discussion and list of our exploratory treks.

Additionally, three people said they have had great adventures trekking many times with us but are retiring from trekking holidays. I offer a sincere thank you to these people that have partook in so many previous adventures.

Upper Mustang Magic

With colourful crops in the fields, ancient gompas and canyons of awe, we partly jeep unavoidable roads but mostly trek the best trails to Lo Manthang then take an adventurous, appreciative trekking route out on that most scenic of trails.

12-29 Sept, 18 days — lodge trek — Gelu Sherpa
Members: Fred M******, Sandi B**, Margaret L**

The trek was great and met all my expectations. Gelu did an excellent job leading the group and managing logistics. It was a luxury having a single room and en-suite bathroom.

It felt good to get out trekking again after COVID hiatus. A nice way to begin my retirement.

I think that Upper Mustang will increasingly become a jeep trek as more roads are put in place.

Fred M

... what an amazing and well thought out trek. ...

Sandi B

The trek was great. Different scenery from what I had experienced with Jim in Dolpo and Kanchenjunga on our long camping trips into more remote areas. Lots of roads as you know in Mustang so some jeep here and there worked well. Weather was perfect. (Once in Lukla I got stuck for days so I know what can happen with weather).

... Gelu, Mingma and Amar are excellent. Gelu is a great communicator. Boys really fun also. That's about all. Thanks for organising.

Margaret L

2023 Zanskar Khi *exploratory

An exploratory mystery, probing the valley system from Khi village and a neglected mountaineering pass that might be a new key to crossing the Great Himalayan Range.

22 Aug-25 Sept/2 Oct, 35/42 days — Jamie McGuinness
Members: David K**, Jim Twiss******* with Esther (and Masala the dog)
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Ram Lal and Bishal with 11 horses-mules
Resupply: Lobsang (and the other dog Cheese)

This was a trek from Zanskar villages and the colourful Zanskar rock into the real Great Himalaya Range with hanging glaciers, sheer rock and still raging rivers, so a real contrast in a couple of days walking.

For the exploratory section, the monsoon should have ended and several weather forecasts plus the Indian Meteorological Dept even said so but ...

After staying in Kargyak and waving off Michelle, Ints and Natalie, we headed into that large valley from Khi/sKhing. We wanted to talk with locals about the old pass however it was harvest time and with everyone working, first on the roads, then after that, harvesting, we were not able to extract more info.

Our first camp was slightly dusty but convenient then the next day Ram Lal pushed on to the very last patch of greenery that the horses could access and, by luck, there was a spring and it was a fine camp, as close to the action as we could get. After a probe up the glacier on a drizzly day, we turned back but more daringly Kunga and Ram Lal trekked a fair way up the glacier. Alas, there was a lot of cloud and not the visibility needed, which is what I had feared.

The following day, we had a needed rest day as the predicted fine weather instead felt even more monsoonal, however the day after was much better and we set off with purpose. After the morning break Jim and David turned back, to my disappointment. Esther and I continued up at a faster pace and with good navigation headed up the moraine. We turned right, heading further up mostly on ice, crossing a couple of relatively minor streams in the ice, to a point opposite to where I thought the pass may be. We could see that with a lot more ice, the route to where I guessed the pass may be, would be feasible. I scanned the pass top with binoculars but could see no sign of human construction. However, on the glacial ice I did find small bright orange O-ring, likely for a stove. While slightly stiff, rather than supple, it didn't break with my flexing it. I am guessing this was discarded by a mountaineering group.

During winter, Kunga talked with locals who have a memory of the pass and indeed, I was looking at the correct spot. While mountaineers may still be able to cross, there is no possibility of animals crossing as they once did, nor of traders. So, this idea of mine is now dead.

2023 Tso Zanskar

From high altitude (Lake) Tsomoriri to colourful Zanskar, we traverse that vast wilderness area we know and love. Wildlife, canyons, panoramic passes and big sky trekking with the comfort of our horse caravan.

22 Aug-15 Sept, 25 days — caravan style — +Jamie McGuinness
Members: +Ints M, Nataly, Michelle Norgate, +Jim Twiss******* with +Esther (and +Masala the dog) plus David K** for the last section
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Ram Lal and Bishal with 11 horses-mules
Resupply crew: Lobsang

we are very happy with the trek and the whole trip. ... I sincerely thank you and your team for the perfectly organized and realized Ladakh exploration.

Ints M

Traversing some of India's most incredible, scenic wilderness, this was a trek in four parts.

First, we started from Tsomoriri with a couple of windy days and nights (it is usually windy at Kiangdam) and then from the lightly trodden Phirtse Valley headed off trail for the second part to explore that huge remote untracked wilderness area. At our first camp a curious wolf eyed us from a distance. We headed to the base camp for the peak and climbed the steep, sharp scree in a slog that doesn't seem worth it until the summit, where the panorama is extensive and left us in awe of how many peaks near, middle distance and far, we could see. Of note, Masala the dog (who adopted us on the trail) was almost certainly the highest dog on the planet that day, also summitting with us. She is one tough if gentle dog!

The third part of this trek was the crossing of the formidable Pangpo La into another wilderness area. This is a one way pass that begins easily enough up a slightly rough stream to the top of a pass marked with a few old cairns. The descent down the other side is the challenge though, and one that Ram Lal and his excellent memory excels at. This savage route was slightly tamed once there was a mule trail to follow (kudos to the lead horse!), however there was still some real exposure. It is a route that demands respect and astute route finding. Apparently, decades ago it was sometimes used by nomads with yaks and horses, although never by goats and sheep, who often push each other off a narrow path.

The Upper Tsarap Chu is a wild area and it was here that we were in awe of the remoteness again. There are no kiang in this valley and so Ram Lal could divine from the rare disintegrating horse poop that the last camping group through here must have been at least 4+ years ago, ie pre-covid, and similarly for the last group to cross the Pangpo La, which could have even been us in 2017. We trekked for nine days cross country without trails - not even animal trails!!!

Jim coined the second section "the accursed land" (the title of an Antarctic book) and while the desert is panoramic trekking at this time of year, it should be avoided at most other times. Over the other side of the pass (third section), the phrase "bare rock savagery" from John Keay's Himalaya perfectly describes the Zanskar Range.

For the last section from Sarchu to Kargyak, David K joined us after a cycling warm up. This is familiar territory to myself, Esther, Jim and the crew, however we took the less used Tserichen (Surichen) La rather than the longer Phirtse La as this drops into Stanzin Kunga's pleasant home village. Oh, the panorama from the pass top!

Each of the four sections has its own distinct character and so despite only trekking through one village, it was a trek of variety, and the remote wilderness left us all in awe.

Sadly, with the Chinese senselessly poking India in the eye on the line of control, India is forced to build a road on the edge of this wilderness. I'll write more about that for the 2024 Zanskar GHT, however suffice to say that India has been happy with the old line of control status quo without wishing to expand or change the peace in any way; it is entirely the Chinese PLA that are agressive for no fathomable logic and thereby necessitating this destructive road construction.

Ladakh Skypacking Plus

Trails less trekked. We backpack and camp out in the most amazing wilderness but our twist is luxury resupplies by Lobsang. Refuel on his Asian fusion cooking and swap dirty for clean, and head out again.

27 July-15 Aug, 20 days — backpacking — Jamie McGuinness
27 July-24 Aug, 29 days — backpacking + caravan
Members: Serge & Hannah**, Jim Twiss******, Lee Ann****, Ryan L (& Esther)
Resupply crew: Lobsang and Phuntsok
Caravan crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Ram Lal and Bishal + 11 horses-mules

This was a great adventure but not without incidents.

The variety of scenery was outstanding but it was the wolves that were the surprises. First, one crossed the road right in front of us on one of our connecting drives. Then we saw two a couple of hundred metres along from our camp, causing minor panic with the shepherds also nearby. That wasn't the end though, as a wolf hopped across a pass within 20 meters of us! Lastly, while Jamie was sleeping out there was a midnight yowling howl and in the early morning the crew spied a wolf sauntering 50 metres above my orange sleeping bag. They laughed rather than alerting me because it looked well fed and not in need of a meal.

And the incidents. The first was Jim's 2 metre firehose squirts (luckily I wasn't witness), probably the result of a roadside restaurant in Upshi. In Jim fashion, after recovering, he met us as we were finishing the second section, warning of the intimidating river crossings near Lato, which he had just crossed several times. Just after suggesting we stick close and watch for each other, Serge was swept of his feet and Hannah immediately yanked him out. In the process, the one croc club has a new member as Serge lost a croc. (Jim is another member having lost a croc in 2022). That is a mean river section near Lato if there is a little more water than usual in it and there are no easy crossing points.

Lee Ann had been sensitive to the altitude from the start (whereas she had trekked to extreme altitude previously without trouble). She could still hump a heavy pack well but as we slept higher one camp gave her real grief and we (myself and her) should have descended immediately but then Serge dived for a bowl floating down the stream and dislocated his shoulder. Thank goodness, the medically new but effective "three man sandwich" technique and then a gentle twist by me returned it to its socket without issue.

I might have been a little down but certainly not broken! Sadly, the trip did not end the way I wanted but I am grateful I was safe and eventually made a full recovery (though skinny- losing 11 pounds made for quite a show as I lost my swim suit bottoms in my Delhi hotel pool! Whoopsie!). ...

I owe you a heartfelt thankyou for all your kindness and making sure I was safe and out of the mountains. I really appreciate your skills, knowledge and compassion when it came to my quick exit. Things really got complicated quickly.....I certainly owe you more than a bag of discarded snacks! (I am glad they saw some use!)

LeeAnn

The rest of the trek was less eventful although no less impressive. Backpacking is tough though, the additional weight means passes are a real slog, if satisfying. The camping was a pleasure and in particular, carrying freshly cooked meals as we did after a resupply meant good food. The main comment for us was backpacking trips should focus on areas that horses cannot go.

And UL - true ultralight trekking? While Jim aspires to it, Ryan showed us how it is done and was gracious enough to carry heavy supplies when needed. However, true UL trekking involves so many compromises that it is not the right choice for most backpackers, nor for the longer ranging trips here.

The last section (Hannah's birthday treat, and Serge rejoined for this, phew) was with our usual horse caravan and so luxurious by comparison, and was simply great trekking in that "Tso High" area between the high altitude lakes.

Markha Tso High *private family

For sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek then head remote and higher for real adventure.

10 July-17 Aug — caravan style
Members: Mike and family
Crew: Kunga, Chanden and Ram Lal & Bishal + 11 horses-mules

Thank you for a truly brilliant trek – we all absolutely loved the whole experience – the wonderful team, the remoteness, the passes and peaks, the wildlife and the support and company of you and Esther.

Mike Grocott and family, 2023 private month-long trek

Esther and I helped introduce the Markha Valley to Mike and family, however in truth, the family are experienced trekkers and so it was a catch up as much as anything. We then ducked out and they continued with the able crew. A brief highlight of theirs with their 11-14 year olds was climbing 3x 5800+m passes and 2x 6000+m peaks in five days!

Ladakh Peaks & Passes

This is our unique take on the classic Markha trek finishing with our delightful wildlife and wilderness route. Bonus, a 6218m straightforward peak!

12 June-1 July, 20 days — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — full
Members: Ian MacDonald, Jim Twiss *****, Will Bright
Team: Kunga, Chanden and Ram Lal & Bishal + 11 horses-mules

Thanks for a memorable trek. Even the bits of suffering were all part of the great funscape in retrospect!

Ian MacDonald

Combined with below, and I must say that the wilderness end is so scenic with bouts of wildlife too, that it is a must do route if you have the time.

It was on this section that I began to have doubts about my usual line, wolves have so much food available in summer that they have no need to attack humans. Will preferred to trek ahead of us at his own faster pace and we were around half an hour behind him ascending the Zarlung Karpo La. We had all seen the wolf prints on the trail but I became a little alarmed when Esther pointed out one that seemingly showed a wolf print on top of Will's. Was the animal stalking Will??

Thank goodness, there he was waiting at the top of the pass for us. He had seen the fresh prints ahead of him and that one we had seen was probably not what we assumed.

Thank you, everyone, for the wonderful, appreciative company.

Markha & Dzo Jongo

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb a 6218m peak. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

12-26 June, 15 days — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — full
Members: Paul G and Peter, Brad & Jade
Team: Lobsang, Tenzin Dorjee, Pema with 8 horses

Combined with the above trip, this made a total of seven (plus a last minute cancellation).

Winter/spring finished late this year and so instead of perfect conditions, it was still a little cool (no problem!) but also with melting snow higher up and the snow on Dzo Jongo Ri looked problematic to me, too much of it starting rather lower on the mountain than usual. I made a call to "climb" the dome of Konka Ri/Konga Ri 5740m instead, which is not high but is reputed to have an impressive view. Thank goodness I made this call!

Climbing "baldy" proved to be a tougher than expected outing. The snow started low and we put on mountaineering boots then ascended to the summit fairly easily. From the summit there was a 360 degree panorama of mountains and way in the distance we could clearly see K2, GI & GII plus Broad Peak, so four of the five 8000'ers in Pakistan, more than 250kms distant! So far, so good, however after our leisurely admiration of the view in the warm sun, we postholed down, often frustratingly falling through the snow crust, immensely tiring with bruised shins too. Thank goodness we did not attempt Dzo Jongo first, it would have been a true ordeal.

All in all it was a great trek and I must emphasize that although shorter than all our other treks, every single day was satisfying with some real highlights including a Nat Geo-worthy display of blue sheep cliff dancing from our breakfast table (!), an exploration in awe of the Hangkar fort and unexpected hospitality from locals plus lama in the Markha and Tacha Gompas. Thank you, everyone - crew and members!

ATC Nar-Phu *private

Variety! A warm up on the Annapurna Circuit then Phu, with its fortress-like village, some base camp exploration and the finale is the Kang La with in-your-face mountains.

28 Mar-18 Apr, 22 days
Members: Jim Morrow**** and five/six others

This trip had a bumpy start, with one person taking a hiking fall a few weeks prior and then another came down with covid after a few days in Kathmandu. Oh dear.

However, the trek itself went well and at least some of the team will be returning in a couple of years.

Kanchenjunga North-South *private

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal. We can arrange both private trips and group fixed departures - what suits you?

26 Mar — lodge trek — Bire Tamang
Members: Tim & Jen

The trip went fantastically.

- Tim C