Inspiration and memories

Relax with some Trans-Himalayan inspiration. Jamie's carefully selected photos of most previous treks are organized into Flickr collections by region/topic and alternatively simply by albums, more in the works too. Lose yourself!

All Flickr Albums — region/topic collections

Upper Mustang Magic

With colourful crops in the fields, ancient gompas and canyons of awe, we partly jeep unavoidable roads but mostly trek the best trails to Lo Manthang then take an adventurous, appreciative trekking route out on that most scenic of trails.

12-29 Sept, 18 days — lodge trek — Gelu Sherpa

2023 Zanskar Khi *exploratory

An exploratory mystery, probing the valley system from Khi village and a neglected mountaineering pass that might be a new key to crossing the Great Himalayan Range.

22 Aug-25 Sept/2 Oct, 35/42 days — Jamie McGuinness
Members: David K**, Jim Twiss******* with Esther (and Masala the dog)
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Rama Lal and Bishal with 11 horses-mules
Resupply crew: Lobsang

For the exploratory section, the monsoon should have ended and one weather forecast even said so. But back to the start of the exploratory section, after staying in Kargyak and waving off Michelle and Ints and Natalie, we headed into that large valley from Khi/Skhing. We wanted to talk with locals about the old pass however it was harvest time and with everyone working, first on the roads, then after that, harvesting, we were not able to chat. Kunga will investigate later.

Our first camp was slightly dusty but convenient then the next day Ram Lal pushed on to the very last patch of greenery that the horses could access, and by luck, there was a spring and it was a fine camp, as close to the action as we could get. After a probe up the glacier on a drizzly day, we turned back but more daringly Kunga and Ram Lal trekked a fair way up the glacier. Alas, there was a lot of cloud, which is what I feared.

The following day, we had a needed rest day as the predicted fine weather felt even more monsoonal, however the following day was much better and we set off with purpose. After the morning break Jim and David turned back, to my disappointment. We continued up at a faster pace and with good navigation headed up the moraine, lunching at the glacier junctions. We turned right, heading further up mostly on ice, crossing a couple of relatively minor streams in the ice, to a point opposite to where I thought the pass may be, also the lowest point of the wall. We could see that with a lot more ice, the route to where I guessed the pass may be, would be feasible. I scanned the pass top with binoculars but could see no sign of human construction. However, on the glacial ice I did find small bright orange O-ring, likely for a stove. While slightly stiff, rather than supple, it didn't break with my flexing it.

There is another possible place where the pass could be, and that could be straight up the glacier then a slight hook left, perhaps a reverse question mark. The ridge is hidden and higher, perhaps 5500 or 5600m but has a gentle descent on the other side. However, we will only know the answer as to which is the pass once Kunga has asked around at the nearby villages.

2023 Tso Zanskar

From high altitude (Lake) Tsomoriri to colourful Zanskar, we traverse that vast wilderness area we know and love. Wildlife, canyons, panoramic passes and big sky trekking with the comfort of our horse caravan.

22 Aug-15 Sept, 25 days — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness

Remote!

Ladakh Skypacking Plus

Trails less trekked. We backpack and camp out in the most amazing wilderness but our twist is luxury resupplies by Lobsang. Refuel on his Asian fusion cooking and swap dirty for clean, and head out again.

27 July-15 Aug, 20 days — backpacking — Jamie McGuinness
27 July-24 Aug, 29 days — backpacking + caravan
Members: Serge & Hannah*, Jim Twiss******, Lee Ann****, Ryan L (& Esther)
Resupply crew: Lobsang and Phuntsok
Caravan crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Ram Lal and Bishal + 11 horses-mules

This was a most scenic trek of variety but not without incidents.

The variety of scenery was outstanding but it was the wolves that were the surprises. First, one crossed the road right in front of us on one of our connecting drives. Then we saw two a couple of hundred metres along from our camp, causing minor panic with the shepherds also nearby. That wasn't the end as a wolf hopped across a pass within 50 meters of us! Lastly, while Jamie was sleeping out there was a midnight yowling howl and in the early morning the crew spied a wolf sauntering 50 metres above my orange sleeping bag. They laughed because it was well fed and not in need of me as a meal.

And the incidents. The first was Jim's 2 metre firehose squirts (luckily I wasn't witness). This was probably the result of a roadside restaurant in Upshi. In Jim fashion, after recovering, he met us as we were finishing the second section, and warning of the intimidating river crossings near Lato, which he had just crossed several times. Just after suggesting we stick close and watch for each other, Serge was swept of his feet and Hannah immediately yanked him out. In the process, the one croc club has a new member as Serge lost a croc. (Jim is another member having lost a croc in 2022). That is a mean river section near Lato if there is a little more water than usual in it and there are no easy crossing points.

Lee Ann had been sensitive to the altitude from the start (whereas she had trekked to extreme altitude previously without trouble). She could still hump a heavy pack well though. But as we slept higher one camp have her real grief and we (myself and her) should have descended but then Serge dived for a bowl floating down the stream and dislocated his shoulder. Thank goodness, the medically new but effective "three man sandwich" technique and then a gentle twist by me returned it to its socket without real issue, and relatively little pain even.

The rest of the trek was less eventful although no less impressive - more later!

Ladakh Peaks & Passes

This is our unique take on the classic Markha trek finishing with our delightful wildlife and wilderness route. Bonus, a 6218m straightforward peak!

12 June-1 July, 20 days — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — full
Members: Ian MacDonald, Jim Twiss *****, Will Bright
Team: Kunga, Chanden and Ram Lal & Bishal + 11 horses-mules

Combined with below, and I must say that the wilderness end is so scenic with bouts of wildlife too, and is a must if you have the time.

Thank you, everyone, for the wonderful, appreciative company.

Markha & Dzo Jongo

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb a 6218m peak. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

12-26 June, 15 days — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — full
Members: Paul G and Peter, Brad & Jade
Team: Lobsang, Tenzin Dorjee, Pema with 8 horses

Combined with the above trip, this made a total of seven (plus a last minute cancellation).

Winter/spring finished late this year and so instead of perfect conditions, it was still a little cool (no problem!) but also with melting snow higher up and the snow on Dzo Jongo looked problematic to me, too much of it starting rather lower on the mountain than usual. I made a call to "climb" the dome of Konka Ri/Konga Ri 5740m, which is not high but is reputed to have an impressive view. Thank goodness I made this call!

It proved to be a tougher than expected outing. The snow started low and we put on plastic/mountaineering boots and ascended to the summit fairly easily. From the summit there was a 360 degree panorama of mountains and way in the distance we could clearly see K2, GI & GII plus Broad Peak, so four of the five 8000'ers in Pakistan, more than 250kms away! However after our leisurely admiration of the view in the warm sun, we postholed down, often frustratingly falling through the snow crust, immensely tiring with plenty of bruised shins too.  Thank goodness we did not attempt Dzo Jongo first, it would have been a true ordeal - or failure.

All in all it was a great trek and I must emphasize that although shorter than all our other treks, every day was satisfying with some real highlights including a Nat Geo-worthy display of blue sheep cliff dancing from our breakfast table (!), an exploration in awe of the Hangkar fort and unexpected hospitality from locals and a lama in the Markha and Tacha Gompas. Thank you, everyone - crew and members!

Markha Tso High *private family

For sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek then head remote and higher for real adventure.

10 July-17 Aug — caravan style

Esther and I helped introduce the Markha Valley to Mike and family, however in truth, the family are real trekkers and so it was as a catch up as much as anything. We then ducked out and they continued with the able crew. The brief highlight was 3x 5800+m passes and 2x 6000+m peaks in five days!

More to come sometime.

ATC Nar-Phu *private

Variety! A warm up on the Annapurna Circuit then Phu, with its fortress-like village, some base camp exploration and the finale is the Kang La with in-your-face mountains.

28 Mar-18 Apr, 22 days
Members: Jim Morrow**** and five/six others

This trip had a bumpy start, with one person taking a hiking fall a few weeks prior and then another came down with covid after a few days in Kathmandu. Oh dear.

However, the trek itself went well - more info soon!

Kanchenjunga North-South *private

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal. We can arrange both private trips and group fixed departures - what suits you?

26 Mar — lodge trek — Bire Tamang
Members: Tim & Jen

A wonderful experience ...

Kanchenjunga North-South

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal.

20 Oct-12 Nov, 24 days — lodges — Bire Tamang — USD2480/2780
Members: Barbara and Harald

With perfect weather and Bire as guide, here is what Barbara wrote:

STAFF: Bire was the best guide we ever had. He planned the days according to circumstances and our capacities and wishes. He never rushed and, if the path was clear and safe, let us walk in front to choose the speed and enjoy the privacy. He accompanied us on extra walks and did not let us feel, it was extra work for him. We always followed his friendly advice (wear a hat, if it starts to get cold to avoid headache, no more showers further up with cold water after sunset… ). There was not a single thing he could have done better. We could understand his English well and he ours. We always felt absolutely safe. And on top he is a very friendly, warmhearted humorful person.

And we also liked the friendly porter, Tess. As it was our first trip to Nepal, we had too much stuff, but he never complained. He was very attentive. When we were looking around for something (my husband, gloves, chili sauce on the table, whatever) he almost always guessed, what it was and helped.

Office in Katmandu: well organized and reliable.

THE TRIP was absolutely marvellous. Without relevant technical difficulties (some landslides and rockfall areas, a bit slippery on the last day, but Bire was always there to help), beautiful landscape and mountains also apart from Kanchenjunga. We enjoyed every single day. The treks going up were sometimes just half day for reasons of height acclimatisation, but except for Amjilosa there were always good options for walks in the afternoon. And as a result of the conservative schedule, we did not have any problems with the height, not even headache.

LODGES: A small compartment with two beds and sometimes a shelf. Dining rooms were always nice and heated in Ghunsa and further up. In Lhonak and Ramche toilets were frozen, I could not use them. In Ramche we had mice in the room and they stole a pair of woolen socks, but we did not mind, the owners of the lodge were extremely hospitable and it was our fault to leave a plastic bag with the packaging of protein bars in the room.

FOOD: Food was much better than expected, especially in Phale – I watched the preparation of [delicious] momos in Ghunsa, yak steak in Kangpachen and the best sherpa stew in Selele. They often had only few ingredients, but it was solidly cooked and tasty. And Bire always had a nice desert on top for us, often even fresh fruit.

ALL IN ALL: We will be back soon...

- Barbara

Middle Dolpo *exploratory

We trek the Schaller Trail, a unique, pioneering route named after the noted naturalist who trekked with author of The Snow Leopard, Peter Matthiessen. Our exploratory middle Dolpo route avoids the new high country roads and finishes with the Kagmara La, only repeating a day of our previous Dolpo treks!

10 Oct-10 Nov, 32 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness — USD4880 — full
Members: Mike Farris***, Roger Nix*******, Kees Terhell******, Martin Randell, Greg Danforth***, Natasha D**, Peter M, Jim Twiss**** & Fran*** (and Esther)
Crew: Bali Lopchan, Aiteram, Karma, Keshav, Nawang, Dawa (cook), Sonam, Gelbu, Wangchuk and Pemba
Horsemen: Sandesh, Rajesh and Subash with 15 mules

A many starred group of mostly previous trekkers ... Continuing with the perfect weather theme, we barely saw even a single cloud. However prior, a severe tropical storm had hammered the region with near record amounts of snow and so all the mountain passes were blanketed. Could we break trail to cross them?

Alas, no. The aftermath was broken roads, trails and bridges, and Bali + crew did a sterling job even getting all our gear through to meet us in Dunai. By comparison, we had an almost effortless couple of flights in. However, it was here that Jamie was struck down by dengue, possibly picked up at Besi Sahar at the end of the below trek, or possibly in Kathmandu. I (Jamie) don't recommend trekking with dengue, or indeed contracting it. Nepal has a real epidemic and we will take more precautions next year.

We began our planned route up to Dho-Tarap, hoping against hope that we might still be able to cross the one crucial pass. But could we even get to the villages? There was a broken bridge that had turned around some trekkers while there was rumour it was being fixed. We arrived to find a repair team in action who let us cross a couple of temporary planks and our crew energetically passed all the luggage across while the mules and mule drivers took a "can do" attitude and forced the mules to swim the fast flowing river, despite the spot being less than ideal. I'm relieved to report they all made it. 

From the villages of Dho and Tarap, we made a base camp to see if we could cross to trek the Schaller Trail but we could not even break trail to the top of the crucial pass. So, we tried our best and were satisfied that we must backtrack. So we did, back to Dunai staying at different camps, then journeyed to up, taking the scenic route eventually to Phoksundo. More to come ...

Upper Mustang Magic

With colourful crops in the fields, ancient gompas and canyons of beauty, we partly jeep, mostly trek the best trails to Lo Manthang then take an adventurous, appreciative trekking route out on that most scenic of trails.

We finish with a jaunt over the Thorung La...

14 Sept-7 Oct, 24 days — jeep & lodge trek — Jamie McGuinness — USD3880
Members: Jim Twiss***, Bruce Utsey****, Johnny Emberson & Tai Federico
Crew: Gelu Sherpa (guide), Bali Lopchan (assistant guide), Mingmar, Nima and Lakpa

What an entertaining trek! Starting in the monsoon means the Pokhara-Jomsom flight is often cancelled, and it was. However, the road journey only took a day compared to our 2019 epic two days ...

Our logistics choices were good. Staying in the lodges was convenient, and in the main places, they are well set up. Off the main route they are more basic but still serviceable (and preferable to using tents). Using jeeps on a few sections of road was also convenient and logical, and we were appreciative of the walking trails where there are no roads. The porters along with us had very little work for much of the trek, then were rather heavily loaded for the couple of sections where we really needed them. This was mostly a function of carrying some additional sleep out camping gear though, not usual on most Mustang treks.

There were so many highlights, Upper Mustang really is one of the best treks on the planet, but perhaps our most special section was an overnight backpack to sleep in the abandoned Khampa guerilla headquarters of Makar. More to come ...

Ladakh Peaks & Passes *private

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb several 6000+m peaks with our unique wilderness exit. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

28 Aug-16 Sept, 20 days — caravan style
Members: Mark** & Edita Horrell**
Crew: (the incredible) Santosh Karki, Tukten and Imran

Arranged through Zanskar Trek, this was Mark and Edita's first overseas holiday after the covid lockdowns. Read about Mark's experience on his own popular blog:

markhorrell.com/blog/2022/markha-valley-trek-a-perfect-reintroduction-to-trekking-in-ladakh

markhorrell.com/blog/2022/dzo-jongo-east-a-6000m-peak-so-easy-you-can-just-walk-up-it

markhorrell.com/blog/2022/dzo-jongo-west-the-worlds-shortest-6000m-peak-summit-day/

https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2022/wham-bam-langtang-chang-four-days-of-trekking-joy/

2022 Zanskar GHT

Traversing Zanskar through to Spiti, this is indeed a Great Himalaya Trail, and our unique route is a medley of striking landscapes. Mesmerizing panoramas, remote villages, famous Phuktal Monastery and sublime big sky wilderness. Join us!

6 Aug-10 Sept, 36 days — Leh to Leh/Delhi — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — USD3980
Members: Sandi B, Jim Twiss**, Mike Farris**, Stan Adam, Kelvin Chen (and Esther)
Crew: Lobsang, Stanzin Kunga, Chanden (cook)
Horsemen: Ram Lal & Som Lal (the kid) and 11 horses-mules, Pemba and 9 horses

A GHT trekker prompted me to look into this traverse of the Zanskar Range, and so off we went. The opening trails were fairly tough so we adapted our route but it was also particularly satisfying. I'll open with a few choice tongue-in-cheek quotes.

"I trekked with Jamie through Zanskar and didn't die" said Mike after another high consequence "technical dirt" scree traverse. This is the second Zanskar trek he has survived; good going!

"I might try something easy after this like Mt Everest"

(and there is a story there too, if you meet Mike in person) ...

"Merciless, relentless, dangerous, brutal, savage, ferocious"
- Jim's descriptive word salad.

The jaw-dropping canyons started early, the last few kilometres of the drive to Kanji are through the most spectacular gorge and next time we must walk the best section. Although we acclimatized soundly prior, opening with the Kanji La is brutal, a long day on a rocky and rough trail. The day after, we crossed our second 5000m pass, also rough and relatively long. The remote village of Dibling was a highlight and we discussed some possible future (backpacking) exploration options too.

Then, as we began a dodgy, remote section of trail, we found out Sandi had covid, probably the reason she had been struggling. Rather than attempt a heli evac, she elected to continue to the nearest road, still a couple of narrow trail days away. Sandi is one hardy lady to have trekked this particularly tough first section with covid. From Padum, she returned to recover in Leh.

Our next section was dependent on low rivers however the dry winter and spring meant these canyons and the multiple river crossings were more straightforward than expected (while there was much less grass for the horses).

Mike made a GPS track of the trek for Google Maps. We walked around 325km /200 miles and ascended 16,300m, and the same descend, which is close to twice the height of Everest!

To be continued ...

Ladakh Skypacking - Tso High & Wild

Trails less trekked. Backpacking is carrying all your own gear and camping out in the most amazing wilderness but our twist is luxury resupplies by Lobsang. Refuel on his Asian fusion cooking and swap dirty for clean, far more satisfying and rewarding. Rough it and treat yourself!

mid-July-6 Aug — Leh to Leh — backpacking — Jamie McGuinness

Unusually, this trip didn't work out, ie didn't run. For various good reasons the trekkers couldn't take holidays at the last minute. Not to worry, I planned on a personal trek to spot snow leopards and other wildlife but Esther had other ideas. Instead, we drove Iceland's ring road which was a fantastically scenic road trip!

Markha & Dzo Jongo Ri 6218m *private

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb a 6000+m peak. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

20 June-4 July 15 days — Leh to Leh — caravan style — +Jamie & +Esther
Members: +Nick B**, Charlie B, +Sophie B & +Jan M
Crew: Lobsang in Leh; Phuntsok Dorjee (cook), +Tenzin Dorjee, +Stanzin Kunga
Horsemen: Ram Lal & Som Lal (the kid) and 11 horses-mules
Summit: 2 July 2022

This was our first trek after the covid lockdown years.

We had a fantastic trek in Ladakh with Jamie and Esther. Jamie’s meticulous planning meant that everything went smoothly and Esther’s delight in spotting wildlife, with binoculars always at the ready, meant we saw loads. The wonderful team provided delicious hearty meals, great company and support. Spectacular scenery, quality outdoor living, and a 6,250m peak to boot. We would thoroughly recommend!!

Nick Badman, private Markha & Dzo Jongo 2022

Perfect weather! Two weeks of warmth and sun made for fun, easy trekking and climbing. The 4-wheel-drive road to Markha has made inroads but in truth doesn't impact the trek much as is is only little-improved over the previous tractor track. The first couple of days has always been slightly monotonous but with bursts of fields and hamlets but is a gentle intro to build trekking legs. We loved exploring the high country.

As well as great trekking, some of us were successful on Dzo Jongo Ri East too. Conditions were great and we walked up most of the way, only putting on plastic mountaineering boots and crampons near the summit. However, despite the care we took with acclimatization Charlie still struggled, which was a shame.

And the wildlife tally? First time to Ladakh, Som, the kid horseman, saw a snow leopard while collecting the horses on our wildlife detour. Charlie fleetingly saw what was probably a wolf from our Nyimaling camp, and a fox cheekily checked out our base camp, which the crew saw but we didn't. All in all, it was a successful post-covid start!