Inspiration and memories

Relax with some Trans-Himalayan inspiration. Jamie's carefully selected photos of most previous treks are organized into Flickr collections by region/topic and alternatively simply by albums, more in the works too. Lose yourself!

All Flickr Albums — region/topic collections

Manaslu Beyuls *private

The ultimate trek around Manaslu with a Tsum beginning, for a private group.

25 Nov-20 Dec, 26 days — lodges — Bali Lopchan
Member: Damien, Anna, Dorota and Tamara
Crew: Bali, Ang Kami, Sarki and Ram

After two autumn storms, this trek period was fine and dry, if cool. The Larya La crossing was icy but that is microspikes are for. If exploring the middle hills, the late November into December period is great, and I would include the Manaslu trek as mostly middle hills.

[Our] Team ... enjoyed, with quite a bit of suffering at times, a fantastic trek.

Tsum Valley was a great trekking as well cultural experience and prepared us well for the challenges of Manaslu circuit. The Manaslu trek was also unforgettable in its vistas and ethnic experiences. Our most adventurous members, Dorota and Damien ventured high to the Manaslu base camp on their rest day while Tamara and I visited the Berendra Tal and the local Gompa. We all also headed to Ru La with the two reaching the Tibetan border with Bali while Tamara and I turned back at 4500m elevation.

It was heartbreaking to realise that the Dharamsala village closed the day we were supposed to head up for the Pass. We returned to Samagoan bitter that the dream of many trekkers was at the hands of a single person that fell sick and decided to close shop with no back up plan! Some trekkers, like us, turned back or most added 4 extra hours to their attempt over Larkya La pass from Samdo.

While in Samagoan, Dawa Lama, proprietor of Buddhisattva lodge, and Bali took the initiative to contact other Dharmsala lodge owners. One of them agreed to open the shelter for a few more nights. So, we headed back to Samdo😊. The attempt to the pass was eventful as one of our members found the experience overwhelming. With trust on Bali’s judgement and the support of Sarki and Angami everybody made it to the prayer flags of Larkya La. The feeling of being there removed all reservations of spirit. The team was elated around this amazing plateau. ... We thank you and your wonderful Nepali team for an unforgettable trek.

- Anna

A few personal comments from a first-timer in Nepal.

It was a great trek and I thought Bali and the crew were professional and personable.

Bali’s English was adequate for the task. Any lack thereof was certainly made up for by his sense of humour and fun.

The trek provided some personal challenges, which was great - MBC & Rui La.

The cold was manageable and I would always prefer cold over crowds. Even the dining room at Dharmasala was cosy when they got the stove fired up.

- Damien

Kanchenjunga North-South

As the season quietens, trek at what is usually the clearest, driest time of the year for fantastic mountain panoramas.

8 Nov-1 Dec, 24 days — lodge trek — Bire Tamang
Members: David, Zoe, Markus and Marcia

This was an incredible trip, much harder than we expected.

Bire, Des and Depack did an excellent job. Everything went really smoothly. Thanks a lot for setting up such a professional team.

- Markus & Marcia

Thank you for setting up an amazing (although challenging) trek. Your team, Bire, Des and Dipak were fantastic and really helped me through the hard parts. We had great weather and were lucky considering all the landslides and rockfalls.

An exceptional experience. I hope to see you again on another.

- David Maxwell

Kanchenjunga North-South High *private

Epic! Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal and on this special version of the trek, we walk up Jamie's favourite high viewpoint of the region.

29 Oct-24 Nov, 27 days — lodge trek — Bali Lopchan
Members: Sue, Bob, Dyanne, Mark, Kirby, Jean, Donna and Ann
Crew: Bali, Ram, Da Sona ...

Prior to the trek, a tropical storm unloaded on the eastern Himalaya, as happens every few years. This meant at higher altitude there was snow on the ground, making conditions more challenging but also scenic.

Feedback:

Harsher than we expected

Long journey just to begin our trek

Porters were amazing!

Kind and always responsive

Water always available

Bali is a good guide but needs to be fluent in English. Communication was challenging with him

Some rough tea houses

Plenty of food and tea and hot water

Trek on!

- Dyanne

Manaslu Beyul

The ultimate trek around Manaslu with our unique itinerary getting well off the beaten track. Seriously, this is the best Manaslu trek!

13 Oct-5 Nov, 24 days — lodges — Jo Chaffer
Members: Ralph ***, Mike F****, Jim** & Kirstin, Mike & Kate T, Sue L and Alexa

The weather was perfect until it wasn't, and a degenerating severe tropical storm hit the eastern Himalaya with around half a metre of snow in the high country. Jo and the team had real warning and adjusted plans, trekking the scenic day trips prior, then only skipping the pass and instead hightailing it down, although this ended up being messy with packed lodges and muddy trails.

Some cold rain and where Dawa could get accommodation for the team dictated the itinerary and there was further challenge due to still active landslides - sometimes scary. Thank goodness for the truly excellent, supportive leadership by Jo.

Everyone commented that the side trips off the main trail were absolute highlights...

Notes on Manaslu:The changes from 2008 were incredible/sad!

In 2008 our camping trek route was: drive to Arughat-Liding-Korlabesi-Salleri-Deng-Ghap-Lho etc. Samagoan was a shock this year, a veritable metropolis. The ubiquitous electricity and wifi were also surprising.

I really liked your route, which kept us off of the main trail, visited some interesting places, and got the legs tuned up for the pass. Jo did a great job and was fun to travel with. She ran a pretty tight ship, which was good for the inexperienced folks in our group. ...

The decision to retreat was very clearly correct ...

I thought Dawa did a good job and things ran as smoothly as might be expected. The assistant guides (Lhakpa and Tek) were inexperienced and weren’t able to do much; I’m sure Jo has related her thoughts. One of the porters (Milan?) was an assistant guide on Ralf’s first trip and helped a lot. ...

- Mike Farris

The trip was great. The weather and backtracking were disappointing of course, but these things happen. Glad I was with knowledgeable, careful people and got out safe.

- Alexa

Manaslu Beyul *private

The ultimate trek around Manaslu with an Annapurna Circuit finish for a VMTC private group.

11 Oct-8 Nov, 29 days — lodges — Bire Tamang
Members: Murray, Jake, Trish, Marianne, Dave Colin and Pauline

After an incredible run of good weather, their wonderful, ambitious itinerary was thwarted by the cyclonic storm dumping on the Himalaya at exactly the wrong time, 29 Oct. Initial forecasts suggested the team would be able to cross the Larkya La before the storm hit but then it arrived earlier and so they retreated. And that is when you realize just how busy the Manaslu trek is. Lodges were packed with retreating and ascending trekkers. Bire did a great job with reserving spots for them.

Mustang & Saribung Wild

Upper Mustang then a climb of straightforward Saribung 6328m and across the glaciated pass to the Nar-Phu Valley. We finish with the Kang La and Tilicho - easy! Hmmm.

25 Sept-29 Oct, 35 days — lodges+camping — Jamie
status: full
Members: Kees Terhell*******, Lars A**, Tanya-Rob Holmes**, Mick L, Bruce Utsey*****, Thomas G***, Jan, Jim Twiss************
Crew: Bali, Ram, Aiteram, Ang Kami (cook), Sonam, Nima and 16 porters ...

Wow, success and phew!

Upper Mustang was fabulous and despite the worry of ever busier roads, the trekking trails were quiet and our itinerary is still scenic and worthwhile. Konchokling is one of the most stunning day trips on the planet, truly impressive.

Leaving lodges behind, we hiked up slowly towards Damodar and Saribung, plenty of acclimatisation overnight stops along the way. Nights were cold, I wish I had bought my warmest sleeping bag, and others certainly noticed the cold. From Damodar Kund, Bruce, Jim and I took an ambitious day trip with great panoramas of Gaugiri and other peaks, reminding me what a canyon landscape it is up there. With instinctive route finding, we crossed an old pass and found the way down, which hasn't been used in years.

Then for the crossing of the 6050m Saribung La. The weather was perfect, although cold, and we camped on the moraine then crossed in perhaps 15cm of soft snow. Kees broke trail to attempt Saribung peak beside but that soft snow just got worse and he went in up to mid-thigh, so we bailed on the climb. 

However, we crossed the glaciated pass without incident and descended a long way down to a rough camping spot. The following day we camped at a cute spot and then reached the village of Phu. Heading to Naar was as scenic as ever, now with lodges at all possible spots. Since we were camping, we had lunch at Naar then camped higher, making it a slightly less tough climb of the pass.

Oh, the panorama from the Kang La really is impressive and well worth the climb and the long descent to Ngawal. The Ngawal to Manang route is still one of the highlights of an Annapurna trek, and we refueled and cleaned up.

The next highlight pass crossing was of the Meso Kanto La. I was worried by the potential cold, and it was cold, but not unbearably so. The trek up to Tilicho (lake) is justifiably famous, with a wall of fluted snow in your face and leaves everyone in awe. Moreover, crossing the Meso Kanto La continues the theme. We had an exceptionally scenic pass crossing but the descent was our penalty. There was hard snow on the exposed trail, great care needed. Our last camp, using a newish section of trail was also simply awesome underneath the 7000+m Nilgiri, and a spot well worth visiting again.

So, we successfully crossed all three major passes without incident and returned to Kathmandu. Then a cyclonic storm dumped on Eastern Nepal, messing with all the other teams in the mountains. That makes several years in a row we have lucked out with timely dodges.

The crew was fantastic, and the porters really worked as a supportive team, so thank you to everyone!

Upper Mustang

With colourful crops in the fields, ancient gompas and canyons of awe, we partly jeep unavoidable roads but mostly trek the best trails to Lo Manthang then take an adventurous, appreciative trekking route out on that most scenic of trails.

24 Sept-10 Oct, 17 days — lodges — Bire Tamang
Members: Kelvin Chen****, H**, Ralph**, Ewan, Lorraine & Dale

Everyone had a great trek. Wait for Kelvin's videos ...

Dolpo Crystal Mountain

Across old Dolpo before it's gone. The oh-so-turquoise Phoksundo Lake, Shey Gompa and thriving villages feature on our adventurous route to Jomsom.

25 Aug-28 Sept, 35 days — camping
Members: Kelvin Chen***, Tanya-Rob Holmes*
Crew: Bali, Ram, Dolma, Ang Kami (cook), Sandesh x2 and ?? mules

At the request of the trekkers joining the next treks of the season, I put this together. While I had planned for the team to bus in with the crew, to avoid the often cancelled flight, the Kathmandu office could see a break and so the team left Kathmandu a day early and flew in, a bonus, and had an additional day at Juphal while the crew prepared the supplies.

As alluded to in the season summary above, the good weather soon turned cloudy and rainy for the first days of trekking. most of the rest of the trek.

Kelvin (Eco Odysseys) has some soothing videos of the trek:

Journey start to Dolpa with Teej festival

Ep 1 to Phuksundo

Ep 2 to Shey

Ep 3 Bhijer to Saldang

Ep 4 Saldang to Tokyu

Ep 5 Dho-Tarap to Chharka

The Dolpo trip has been absolutely fabulous, with every day different and full of surprises! The crew have been outstanding. Bali is a wonderful guide. Ram and Dolma great assistant guides and Am Kame a wizard in the cook tent (with Bali too!). Sandesh and his brother and mules so cheerful, with incredible surefootedness over some ‘challenging’ terrain!

- Tanya Holmes

Markha High *Singapore

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek then explore the wild high country for a wonderfully balanced adventure!

Lunar eclipse bonus!

30 Aug-14 Sept, 16 days — Jamie-Esther
Members: Ching Hong, Edwin, Jo, Jolanda, Doris, Siok Fun & Christine
Crew: Lobsang, Kunga, Dorjee, Kaji and Ram Lal + Madi with 12 horses, Pema with 9 horses

So much for Ladakh's famed glorious trekking weather, but what a fun team and trek despite the rough weather. A few days prior to our trek, Ladakh had light but steady rain for 60 hours and so plenty of landslides and road closures. Could we even get to our trek start? Yes, but it was a muddy drive!

Despite rain on and off for the next nine days (our longest semi-wet weather period ever, so far), we mostly dodged getting wet while trekking and found a couple of good, new-to-us campsites. We adapted our itinerary on the fly as a few trails had been damaged. Cards, Singapore snacks and banter ruled the camps.

And the eclipse? Not visible through the thick cloud that night, oh well.

At last, the monsoon cleared and the oh-so-fine days began, with slightly chilly nights. We finished with glorious panoramas over the Lalung La and Chaksang La, then an adventurous exit to Lato on our adapted itinerary.

Zanskar Skypacking

Trails less trekked. Backpacking is carrying all your own gear and camping out in the most amazing wilderness but our twist is resupplies by Lobsang. Swap dirty for clean so rough it yet treat yourself!

20 July-20 Aug, 16/32 days — backpacking — Jamie
status: full
Ryan, Jenn, Carolyn**, Jim Twiss***********, Serge** & Hannah*** with Bali
Resupplies: Lobsang and Dorjee
Spiti driver: Sanju Vikas

The endless sublime panoramas were beyond awesome, really truly some of the best trekking on the planet, and great camping too. Each of the four sections was special in its own right and the homestay resupplies were also cultural, stepping back in time to a period where you could not book online. Instead, simply wing it by turning up...

We were lucky with the weather, some showers, some cloud but also many fine periods. This is typical of the season. With the warmth, we could pack light making for light loads for some of us. This was my first true UL (ultralight) backpacking experience (thanks in a large part to Jim Twiss) and it won't be my last.

This itinerary was basically the best possible and would suit a private group with Bali (and/or perhaps Kunga?) helping out.

And the Spiti road trip? See below...

Zanskar Jeep Safari

Accompanying our backpacking trip but without the trekking, instead taking you to the highlight villages by comfortable jeep.

20 July-20 Aug, 32 days — Lobsang with Esther
Phil Whitwell*******, Chris Straw and Esther

Accompanying the backpacking, this was a travel trip harking back to the 1980s, prior to internet booking and the pressure of good reviews (although these pressures have increased standards, of course). The homestays were simple and authentic, a bit of roughing it, sometimes dormitory-style, without attached bathrooms throughout Ladakh.

Oh, Wanla Gompa and others were a surprise. Freshly painted on the outside but still the millenia year old authentic interior. Priceless. 

Lobsang handled the varied logistics and roads under construction with aplomb while Esther kept "her Maj" and Phil sharp playing bananagram.

While the homestays were basic, this was a great adventure and there is lots to see and do in Zanskar, and I still recommend...

And the Spiti road trip? This started well, stunningly scenic, but landslides meant a few nervous days as we passed one cleared slide to another. We received little rain, the weather was OK where we were but areas near us were hammered. The alternatives (via Manali, or back to Leh to full flights) were is worse shape with greater risks so we persevered. We reached Shimla with half a day to spare however the changes were not over yet though as the toy train was suddenly delayed and so we took one last taxi ride to Kalka and caught the Delhi express train from there.

In hindsight, we were rather lucky. August was particularly wet, far wetter than usual and Manali plus Spiti were really hammered and continued to get hammered until early Sept, I really feel for the locals who lost cash crops and some even their homes. It was a convergence of several weather systems that stalled, and so will not be the new August normal, although the convergence could well happen again...

Phil Whitwell became our oldest trekker although I won't let the secret out, yet still joined us for one night of a backpacking section and was keen enough to be guided around Singapore by Esther too!

Markha Passes private

Two trekker friends trek the best Markha Valley itinerary with the wilderness end.

21 July-11 Aug, 22 days — Kunga

Changthang Passes *exploratory

New temptations and classic camping in a surprisingly remote part of the Ladakh Range.

25 June-18 July, 24 days — +Jamie and +Esther
Members: Jim Twiss**********, Ian** & Deborah, Sam, +Yoko (and ...)
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden, Bali and Ram Lal + Madi with 12 horses
Logistics: Lobsang with Tashi, Ang Chuk and Tsering

Just to say thank you from both of us for such a memorable trek. Going over my journal I've been struck by how often I noted days as being both "tough" / "hard" and also "v good walking". Which is about right, I think. Plus spectacular, remote landscapes.

- Ian

The trek of unlikely passes. I've longed to return to the region since my 2013 explorations and climbs, and it didn't disappoint. The first surprise after our (rather tough) warm up trek was an unexpected altitude gain because rough roads have been pushed further in. Thank goodness nobody suffered, so we explored around to catch up on acclimatisation.

The second surprise was far more interesting. I have long wanted to cross the high Gongma La (Mike Farris and co did in 2018; I missed that trip because of an aging mother), but what made more sense after some exploring, was the fact there are two separate passes heading into different valley systems, yet only a couple of hundred metres apart. The Gongma La marked on maps is more likely called the Babdo La. The Gongma La (higher pass) and the Yogma La (lower pass)/Yar La/Thugla La both lead to Chibra, which makes more sense.

It was a satisfying day for Yoko, Sam, Jim and myself. The day after this exploration, we tackled a peak and rather than following my longer but more gentle route, we took the Bali direct route which was somewhat punishing. Only Yoko (her personal best!) plus myself and Esther topped out. But what a glorious panorama!

After a resupply, next up was the Yar La, as on maps, but the most common name used was the Tugla La/Thugla La. A hidden trail lead to the top, less rocky than 2013, and this opened to a truly martian landscape with snow mountains around. Another satisfying pass and incredible panorama.

At the grassy plains, we rested and watched cute voles from the breakfast table. No milking yaks this time but watching life from the camp and feeding the camp dog was fun enough.

Heading around for the recrossing of the Ladakh range, a toughish day in the arid Trans-Himalaya suddenly turned to a green oasis doksa for camping. Similarly, the following day. From a distance the Gun La looked steep and particularly unlikely but once I rubbed noses with it, a small but rock-cleared path opened up, and less steep than it first appeared. It was ~5700m high though, a breathtaking scene unfolded at the top, with multiple glaciers and a turquoise lake. Satisfying! Heading down, the route appeared unlikely and steep was still very doable. Our rest day afterwards was showery and cold, but perhaps better than walking in that. Thank goodness Deborah skipped this pass, but she soon joined us again.

After a quick but useful transfer by vehicle from road beginning to road end, and an impressive marathon by ponies and Ram Lal + Mudhi, we were in position to tackle a less demanding pass. What followed from Tiri/Teri was a gorge of death, skeleton valley, with bones seemingly everywhere - and wolf poo. Huge heavy argali horns still attached to a complete spine was a highlight find. No wonder the animals in the valley seemed wary.

Ascending the Kyamri La, we were surrounded by a magical landscape of subtle colours and textures with ever shifting light. Most hilariously, on top of the pass, a darting pika almost ran up Esther's trouser leg, rushing from a pika cave to the piled pass stones. A drama with a horse was solved to end on a good note, and an easy drive to Leh.

*This was Jim Twiss' tenth trek with us, and he isn't finished yet!

Ladakh Passes

The Markha Valley is a classic yet homestay trekkers have to skip the highlights. We know and love the area so explore in the domain of blue sheep, which we have seen on every trip, and wolves which we have seen on some. We end with a dramatic pass which drops us into an enchanting valley with sparkling streams for a refreshing wilderness end.

6-26 June, 21 days — Jamie & Esther
Members: Virginia***, Flo & Ashim and ...
Crew: Kunga, Dorjee, Chanden and Ram Lal+ Mudhi with 12 horses
Logistics: Lobsang and Tashi

With the Pakistan-India spat prior, Leh was almost empty when we arrived, for a change.

After long flights, people often arrive in Leh looking/feeling a little rough. I don't worry about this but for one member this didn't improve over two days and they ended up in hospital where I took care of them until they were recovered enough to fly home. For a busy public hospital in India, the service was efficient and very good and I must thank the professional staff. The moral for me, is if someone has one clear-cut issue, be it diarrhoea or low sats, then we try to fix. However when their symptoms are more varied, less simply attributable, then it is time to visit medical professionals.

Esther and the team headed out without me, and I was unable to catch up due to the altitude jumps required, so instead Jamie stayed in Leh working on other projects.

Virginia, Esther, Flo and Ashim had a great time and saw lots of wildlife, including argali and urial, which are less often seen, and the usual plentiful blue sheep. After, Flo and Ashim went exploring in Zanskar with Kunga, planning adventures for 2026.

Tsum & Manaslu *private

A private group trek beginning with timeless Tsum then the classic Manaslu Circuit with a few additional days - no rush!

30 Apr-25 May, 26 days — lodges
Crew: Bire Tamang - Bali Lopchan
status: full

Well, wow!! Many thanks to you and the team for an absolutely awesome trek!

... loved every minute of it! What I felt really made it was the side trips, the main trail is great no doubt, but the side trips were not to be missed. We were passed by several groups racing along, and I just thought, you won’t be seeing what we do.

Bali and Bire are classic leaders, I would recommend them highly, they helped me with my Nepali language, went out of their way to help others.

I think I was the only one not to suffer some sort of sickness, I guess the bugs don’t like me. Two felt the altitude over the pass a bit hard, but ok, I put that down to the fact they both had colds. The last highlight was the stop at Bandipur, even though we did not see the sunrise, thick fog!

Ritesh did a great job of communications in Kathmandu.

When we arrived at Hinang Gompa there was traditional dancing in progress, costumes and masks, we didn’t expect to see that. ... is a professor of dance, that will live with her forever.

...

- Jim Morrow

Just wanted to say I was very happy with your company and how well run the trek was. I have been in small business most my working life and really appreciate when I observe the effort put into a business with the result of such a well run enterprise such as our trek. The variables needing to be met day to day and logistics behind the scenes in such a remote environment due to weather, accommodation and food availability, trek members ability/health etc are clearly considerable and I was impressed with how well our group was managed You (project himalaya) are awesome and so are your team... who I note most have been with you a very long time.

- R Clark

The trek was incredible. It was full of surprises, from gompas to high passes! It was stunning and I learned so much. Our guides and porters were excellent in all respects. Additionally, the activities and cultural immersion in Kathmandu were exceptional, impactful learning experiences for me. Thanks a million for everything you did to make it happen. When’s the next trip?

- Betsy

Everest Spirit *private

We revel in the Khumbu with no fixed itinerary while Jamie finishes updating his guidebook.

Late Mar-Apr — lodges — Jamie McGuinness

And, yes, we found a good trek route into the region to avoid flights. Details in the coming new edition of the book!

For me, trekking in the Khumbu in April is out, after two years in a row of disgusting air pollution. Also, the region is at or over holding capacity in a number of ways, and so I hope my guidebook update will slightly assist with this. Let's see!