Inspiration and memories

Relax with some Trans-Himalayan inspiration. Jamie's carefully selected photos of most previous treks are organized into Flickr collections by region/topic and alternatively simply by albums, more in the works too. Lose yourself!

All Flickr Albums — region/topic collections

Kanchenjunga North-South

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal.

20 Oct-12 Nov, 24 days — lodges — Bire Tamang — USD2480/2780
Members: Barbara and Harald

With perfect weather and Bire as guide, here is what Barbara wrote:

STAFF: Bire was the best guide we ever had. He planned the days according to circumstances and our capacities and wishes. He never rushed and, if the path was clear and safe, let us walk in front to choose the speed and enjoy the privacy. He accompanied us on extra walks and did not let us feel, it was extra work for him. We always followed his friendly advice (wear a hat, if it starts to get cold to avoid headache, no more showers further up with cold water after sunset… ). There was not a single thing he could have done better. We could understand his English well and he ours. We always felt absolutely safe. And on top he is a very friendly, warmhearted humorful person.

And we also liked the friendly porter, Tess. As it was our first trip to Nepal, we had too much stuff, but he never complained. He was very attentive. When we were looking around for something (my husband, gloves, chili sauce on the table, whatever) he almost always guessed, what it was and helped.

Office in Katmandu: well organized and reliable.

THE TRIP was absolutely marvellous. Without relevant technical difficulties (some landslides and rockfall areas, a bit slippery on the last day, but Bire was always there to help), beautiful landscape and mountains also apart from Kanchenjunga. We enjoyed every single day. The treks going up were sometimes just half day for reasons of height acclimatisation, but except for Amjilosa there were always good options for walks in the afternoon. And as a result of the conservative schedule, we did not have any problems with the height, not even headache.

LODGES: A small compartment with two beds and sometimes a shelf. Dining rooms were always nice and heated in Ghunsa and further up. In Lhonak and Ramche toilets were frozen, I could not use them. In Ramche we had mice in the room and they stole a pair of woolen socks, but we did not mind, the owners of the lodge were extremely hospitable and it was our fault to leave a plastic bag with the packaging of protein bars in the room.

FOOD: Food was much better than expected, especially in Phale – I watched the preparation of [delicious] momos in Ghunsa, yak steak in Kangpachen and the best sherpa stew in Selele. They often had only few ingredients, but it was solidly cooked and tasty. And Bire always had a nice desert on top for us, often even fresh fruit.

ALL IN ALL: We will be back soon...

- Barbara

Middle Dolpo *exploratory

We trek the Schaller Trail, a unique, pioneering route named after the noted naturalist who trekked with author of The Snow Leopard, Peter Matthiessen. Our exploratory middle Dolpo route avoids the new high country roads and finishes with the Kagmara La, only repeating a day of our previous Dolpo treks!

10 Oct-10 Nov, 32 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness — USD4880 — full
Members: Mike Farris***, Roger Nix*******, Kees Terhell******, Martin Randell, Greg Danforth***, Natasha D**, Peter M, Jim**** & Fran*** (and Esther)
Crew: Bali Lopchan, Aiteram, Karma, Keshav, Nawang, Dawa (cook), Sonam, Gelbu, Wangchuk and Pemba
Horsemen: Sandesh, Rajesh and Subash with 15 mules

A many starred group of mostly previous trekkers ... Continuing with the perfect weather theme, we barely saw even a single cloud. However prior, a severe tropical storm had hammered the region with near record amounts of snow and so all the mountain passes were blanketed. Could we break trail to cross them?

Alas, no. The aftermath was broken roads, trails and bridges, and Bali + crew did a sterling job even getting all our gear to meet us in Dunai. By comparison, we had an almost effortless couple of flights in. However, it was here that Jamie was struck down by dengue, possibly picked up at Besi Sahar at the end of the below trek, or possibly in Kathmandu. I (Jamie) don't recommend trekking with dengue, or indeed contracting it. Nepal has a real epidemic and we will take more precautions next year.

We began our planned route up to Dho-Tarap, hoping against hope that we might still be able to cross the one crucial pass. But could we even get to the villages? There was a broken bridge that had turned around some trekkers while there was rumour it was being fixed. We arrived to find a repair team in action who let us cross a couple of temporary planks and our crew energetically passed all the luggage across while the mules and mule drivers took a "can do" attitude and forced the mules to swim the fast flowing river, despite the spot being less than ideal. I'm relieved to report they all made it. 

More to come ...

Upper Mustang Magic

With colourful crops in the fields, ancient gompas and canyons of beauty, we partly jeep, mostly trek the best trails to Lo Manthang then take an adventurous, appreciative trekking route out on that most scenic of trails.

We finish with a jaunt over the Thorung La...

14 Sept-7 Oct, 24 days — jeep & lodge trek — Jamie McGuinness — USD3880
Members: Jim Twiss***, Bruce Utsey****, Johnny Emberson & Tai Federico
Crew: Gelu Sherpa (guide), Bali Lopchan (assistant guide), Mingmar, Nima and Lakpa

What an entertaining trek! Starting in the monsoon means the Pokhara-Jomsom flight is often cancelled, and it was. However, the road journey only took a day compared to our 2019 epic two days ...

Our logistics choices were good. Staying in the lodges was convenient, and in the main places, they are well set up. Off the main route they are more basic but still serviceable (and preferable to using tents). Using jeeps on a few sections of road was also convenient and logical, and we were appreciative of the walking trails where there are no roads. The porters along with us had very little work for much of the trek, then were rather heavily loaded for the couple of sections where we really needed them. This was mostly a function of carrying some additional sleep out camping gear though, not usual on most Mustang treks.

More to come ...

Ladakh Peaks & Passes *private

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb several 6000+m peaks with our unique wilderness exit. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

28 Aug-16 Sept, 20 days — caravan style
Members: Mark** & Edita Horrell**
Crew: (the incredible) Santosh Karki, Tukten and Imran

Arranged through Zanskar Trek, this was Mark and Edita's first overseas holiday after the covid lockdowns. Read about Mark's experience on his own popular blog:

markhorrell.com/blog/2022/markha-valley-trek-a-perfect-reintroduction-to-trekking-in-ladakh

markhorrell.com/blog/2022/dzo-jongo-east-a-6000m-peak-so-easy-you-can-just-walk-up-it

markhorrell.com/blog/2022/dzo-jongo-west-the-worlds-shortest-6000m-peak-summit-day/

https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2022/wham-bam-langtang-chang-four-days-of-trekking-joy/

2022 Zanskar GHT

Traversing Zanskar through to Spiti, this is indeed a Great Himalaya Trail, and our unique route is a medley of striking landscapes. Mesmerizing panoramas, remote villages, famous Phuktal Monastery and sublime big sky wilderness. Join us!

6 Aug-10 Sept, 36 days — Leh to Leh/Delhi — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — USD3980
Members: Sandi B, Jim Twiss**, Mike Farris**, Stan Adam, Kelvin Chen (and Esther)
Crew: Lobsang, Stanzin Kunga, Chanden (cook)
Horsemen: Ram Lal & Som Lal (the kid) and 11 horses-mules, Pemba and 9 horses

A GHT trekker prompted me to look into this traverse of the Zanskar Range, and so off we went. The opening trails were fairly tough so we adapted our route but it was also particularly satisfying. I'll open with a few choice tongue-in-cheek quotes.

"I trekked with Jamie through Zanskar and didn't die" said Mike after another high consequence "technical dirt" scree traverse This is the second Zanskar trek he has survived; good going! "I might try something easy after this like Mt Everest" (and there is a story there too, if you meet Mike in person) ...

"Merciless, relentless, dangerous, brutal, savage, ferocious"
- Jim's descriptive word salad.

The jaw-dropping canyons started early, the last few kilometres of the drive to Kanji are through the most spectacular gorge and next time we must walk the best section. Although we acclimatized soundly prior, opening with the Kanji La is brutal, a long day on a rocky and rough trail. The day after, we crossed our second 5000m pass, also rough and relatively long. The remote village of Dibling was a highlight and we discussed some possible future (backpacking) exploration options too.

Then, as we began a dodgy, remote section of trail, we found out Sandi had covid, probably the reason she had been struggling. Rather than attempt a heli evac, she elected to continue to the nearest road, still a couple of narrow trail days away. Sandi is one hardy lady to have trekked this particularly tough first section with covid. From Padum, she returned to recover in Leh.

Our next section was dependent on low rivers however the dry winter and spring meant these canyons and the multiple river crossings were more straightforward than expected (while there was much less grass for the horses).

To be continued ...

Ladakh Skypacking - Tso High & Wild

Trails less trekked. Backpacking is carrying all your own gear and camping out in the most amazing wilderness but our twist is luxury resupplies by Lobsang. Refuel on his Asian fusion cooking and swap dirty for clean, far more satisfying and rewarding. Rough it and treat yourself!

mid-July-6 Aug — Leh to Leh — backpacking — Jamie McGuinness

Unusually, this trip didn't work out, ie didn't run. For various good reasons the trekkers couldn't take holidays at the last minute. Not to worry, I planned on a personal trek to spot snow leopards and other wildlife but Esther had other ideas. Instead, we drove Iceland's ring road which was a fantastically scenic road trip!

Markha & Dzo Jongo Ri 6218m *private

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb a 6000+m peak. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

20 June-4 July 15 days — Leh to Leh — caravan style — +Jamie & +Esther
Members: +Nick B**, Charlie B, +Sophie B & +Jan M
Crew: Lobsang in Leh; Phuntsok Dorjee (cook), +Tenzin Dorjee, +Stanzin Kunga
Horsemen: Ram Lal & Som Lal (the kid) and 11 horses-mules
Summit: 2 July 2022

This was our first trek after the covid lockdown years.

We had a fantastic trek in Ladakh with Jamie and Esther. Jamie’s meticulous planning meant that everything went smoothly and Esther’s delight in spotting wildlife, with binoculars always at the ready, meant we saw loads. The wonderful team provided delicious hearty meals, great company and support. Spectacular scenery, quality outdoor living, and a 6,250m peak to boot. We would thoroughly recommend!!

Nick Badman, private Markha & Dzo Jongo 2022

Perfect weather! Two weeks of warmth and sun made for fun, easy trekking and climbing. The 4-wheel-drive road to Markha has made inroads but in truth doesn't impact the trek much as is is only little-improved over the previous tractor track. The first couple of days has always been slightly monotonous but with bursts of fields and hamlets but is a gentle intro to build trekking legs. We loved exploring the high country.

As well as great trekking, some of us were successful on Dzo Jongo Ri East too. Conditions were great and we walked up most of the way, only putting on plastic mountaineering boots and crampons near the summit. However, despite the care we took with acclimatization Charlie still struggled, which was a shame.

And the wildlife tally? First time to Ladakh, Som, the kid horseman, saw a snow leopard while collecting the horses on our wildlife detour. Charlie fleetingly saw what was probably a wolf from our Nyimaling camp, and a fox cheekily checked out our base camp, which the crew saw but we didn't. All in all, it was a successful post-covid start!