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Our 2005 treks and expeditions

Here is a list of treks and expeditions we have previously advertised.
The links lead to updated versions of the info pages.
It may appear that we spend our entire lives trekking. You would be almost right!

* means these wonderful people have trekked multiple times with us.
+ means summitted the expedition peak.

2005 Classic Nepal Autumn

Everest Gokyo & Kala Pattar Christmas

Join us for Christmas in the Everest region under crisp, blue December skies without the October hordes. We explore the stunning Gokyo lakes, climb Kala Pattar, visit old Sherpa villages and Buddhist gompas and relax with friends in cozy lodges.

4-29 Dec, 26 days -- teahouse trekking -- leader: Kim & Lhakpa -- US$2290
Team: Ben & Maddy, Jim & Irving, James, Sarah, Lowell and Tashi (guest photographer)

Perfectly blue December skies, with just a touch of cloudy weather under over the Nupste wall; December treks don't get much better than this one! Jim, Irv, Sarah, James, Lowell, Maddy & Ben made it up most of the peaks for exceptional mountain panoramas and then luxuriated by the Sherpa stoves. Tashi Ghale, our 'guest' photographer from Manang, awed us with sunset shots of the moon over 8000 meter peaks, Lhakpa took us on a tour of the Khumbu as seen through the windows of his extended family's guest houses and Lowell managed 'Namche Base Camp'. Kim celebrated her birthday under Mount Everest at Kala Pattar, and Xmas Eve in Kyangjuma & Xmas in Monjo were cozy and filled with good food and drink. Special 'thanks' to Dave R for his inspiration throughout the trek. Thanks to all for a wonderful Christmas trek!

Top: Ben, Maddy, Jim; bottom: Lhakpa, James, Sarah; missing: Kim and Lowell

Everest Base Camp trek - Gokyo and Kala Pattar - Nepal

The very best of the Everest region at the very best time, slightly later to avoid the October high season; Gokyo lakes, the Cho La, and of course Everest Base camp and Kala Pattar, with plenty of time to enjoy this once in a life time trip.

3-28 Nov, 26 days -- teahouse trekking -- Joel Schone -- US$2250
Team: Peter Sih

Kanchenjunga Double Magic

Huge rewards for those intrepid enough; unsullied culture and scenery to rival the Everest region. A classic trek, classic expedition style from the middle hills to the base camps where avalanches rumble and glaciers groan on the world's #3.

23 Oct-18 Nov, 27 days -- expedition-style -- leader: Wanda Vivequin (& Jamie) -- US$2250
Team: Rachel, Pik Chun**, Ornella C*, Alphonse, John and Meagan.
Finishing team: Rachel, Pik Chun**, Ornella C*, Alphonse, John and Meagan, Gerardo G, Andrew M, Mike T, Niels and Jerry C**.

Can you all come again!

John and Meagan write:
From the slideshows we've been putting together for friends and family, Nepal always comes out on top. We picked one hell of a trek to go on! Like Niels, we think back on the trek a lot too. Aside from visions of the 'crapper tent' and freezing our asses off, we both really have incredible memories from the trek.

Kanchen Gola Wild *exploratory

This will be our 5th 42 day exploratory trek in the region (!!) and the last area we have yet to explore. We visit both base camps, the show-stealing Jannu BC and attempt a complex of 6000m peaks that we can call Bokta North. Lastly the locals reckon there is a way over from Kanchenjunga to Makalu - we have adventures finding out.

23 Oct-3 Dec, 42 days -- expedition style -- leader: Jamie McGuinness -- US$2850
Team: Natasha D, John SS*, Dallas C, Gerardo G, Andrew M, Mike T, Ken Hummel**, Niels and Jerry C**.
Finishing team: John SS*, Natasha D.

Natasha has written a short and sweet diary.

What a fantastic trip. So how did we end up with only three trekkers for the exploratory section? First on arrival in Kathmandu, Ken found out that his son had just contracted suspected meningitis, and flew back immediately. Very sad to lose him so quickly. Then after Kanchenjunga North side BC and camping at Pangpema most of the herd bolted, saying that they had not expected to be quite as cold as it was. My entreaties of but "it is just a cold snap" did not wash with them, and as soon as they left it warmed again! To be fair Niels was going to stay but twisted his knee, and Dallas also.

We still didn't quite get to the top of Bokta North; another time, but we were very close.

I had my first helicopter evacuation while running my own trips, Dallas stretched his Achilles tendon tripping on the trail and the swelling just would not go down, even with 5 days rest, so he got a very scenic flight out.

Standing L-R: Bal Bahadur (porter naike), Pasang (sherpa-cook), Bir Bagh (sherpa), Dawa Gelje (sirdar), John SS, Da'Yula (sherpa-sirdar), Natasha, Niels, Alphonse, Dallas C, Jerry C.
Lower row: Pasang (kitchen), Namgyal (sirdar-leader), Zangbu (sherpa), Pik C, Gerardo, Rachel, Megan, John, Mike, Ornella, Jamie, Andrew

The Lost Worlds of Manaslu & Nar Phu

A true Himalayan journey through the lost worlds of the Nepal Himalaya and a glimpse into old Tibet, both wonderfully cultural and spectacular.

17 Oct-20 Nov, 35 days -- expedition-style -- leader: Kim Bannister -- US$3480
Team: Peter McC, Alan Kerr*

With lots of rain and snow under our belts after the Manaslu trek, we continued on from the start of the Annapurna Circuit, had some chilly nights en route to Phu, and only made it as far as a day trip to Phu after Lhakpa cut two hours worth of steps in icy, cliff-top trails. Nar was wonderfully sunny, the Kang La pass challenged us with snow up to our knees, and the finish of the trek was crossing the Thorung La in gale-force winds down to lower Mustang, where balmy breezes encouraged an over-indulgence in chilled beers. A true journey, challenging most of the time, and worth every day (32 of them) of it! Thanks to Peter & Alan for making this an amazing trek, and we'll see you back in the Himalayas soon!

Manaslu Circuit

Himalayan veterans often vote the Manaslu Circuit as the best trek in Nepal. Spectacular mountain scenery, ethnically Tibetan culture, isolated villages and a high pass to the Annapurna region, Manaslu has it all!

17 Oct-6 Nov, 21 days -- expedition-style -- leader: Kim Bannister -- US$2380
Team: Helen** and Evan**, Sally & Nick with the above

A rainy start in the middle hills forced us to shelter in smoky, Nepali tea-houses and an un-crossable Larkya La (pass) was disappointing. [Jamie says: it was a huge dump in the region, many trekkers were rescued in the region]. Leaving snow-covered villages high up in the mountains it made for some of the best trekking days ever, and we ended the trek with the spectacular high route back down to the palace at Gorkha. Helen & Evan, back for more trekking, set the pace for the rest of us, Sally kept us healthy, Nick entertained us by jumping in icy rivers, Peter awed us with tales of the high seas, and Alan equally with his journeys in the far-reaches of the Himalaya. Kim and Lhakpa kept the staff together and happy (despite detours and changed routes), and the dining tent, food, gear and trekkers dry and warm. Through it all, the Maoists kept careful watch over us, but only vaguely hinted at donations such as cameras and binoculars ... team Canada, eh? Or was it New Zealand?

Remote Nar Phu

Trekking deep into the previously restricted valleys of Nar and Phu, this trek is a glimpse into the 'lost world' of old Tibet. Spectacular snow-peaks, glaciers, isolated villages, gompas, yak pastures, open forests, canyons. Trekked Nepal? Think again!

29 Oct-20 Nov, 23 days -- expedition-style -- leader: Kim Bannister -- US$2380
Team: Richard K*, combined with the two trips above.

2005 Fall expeditions

+ Shishapangma Expedition 8027m

Normal North-east ridge route. Jamie has been there twice before to the Central summit and really wants to get to true summit. We can do it, given good conditions! As an option Cho Oyu afterwards is possible.

4 Sep-18 Oct, 45 days -- Guide manager: ++Jamie McGuinness -- US$9600 + $600 safety deposit
Lhasa option start dates: 30 Aug-18 Oct, 50 days -- $10,500
Team: +Ed Kowalski, +Mike Teger, +Greg Long, Bob Breivogel, +Chris Klinke**, +Warwick Barnes**, +Scott Streett and Simona Pogac
Sherpas: +Dawa Gelje, +Da'Yula, +Nima Tenzi, +Pasang Gyelu. Kitchen: Tawa, Tshering Dorje and Dorje.
Shishapangma summits (Central Summit): 2, 3, 4 Oct 2005
Cho Oyu extension: Chris Klinke**.

Most people summitted, very successful and safe - see the Shishapangma expedition dispatches.

Standing L-R: Tshering Dorje, Tawa, Jamie, Dorje, Scott Streett, Dawa Gelje, Greg, Ed K, Pasang, Dr Warwick
Below: Mike Teger, Bob B, Simona, Da'Yula, Nima

+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m

Cho Oyu is HIGH and often called 'easy' but there are plenty of significant challenges. Our guided expedition has strong support and good backup; if you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get and we provide it!

30 Aug-13 Oct, 45 days -- guide-assisted -- Guide-manager: + Andrew Lock -- US$10,000
Team: + Iņigo and Billi Bierling. Sherpa: +Dawa Chhiri. Kitchen: Temba and Da'Nuru.
Cho Oyu summit: 25 Sept 2005.
Shishapangma team: +Andrew Lock, +Iņigo.
Shishapangma summit (Central Summit): 8 Oct 2005.

L-R: Dawa Chhiri, Mike Norris, Seba Illingworth, Andrew Lock, Inigo and Billi Bierling
(Temba and Da'Nuru make up the rest of the team)

+ Cho Oyu expedition 8201m - Tibet Fall

Great base camp support. Sure, you can find cheaper but we offer more safety and more flexibility, and once the differences are counted, we are almost comparable in price.

30 Aug-13 Oct, 45 days -- BC-ABC support -- US$5500
Team: Seba Illingworth and +Mike Norris.

They climbed independently but shared base camp with Andrew's team.

2005 Tibet and Indian Summer

Everest ABC trek 6400m - Tibet

We touch Everest on the highest trek in the world!

11 Sept-2 Oct, 22 days -- expedition-style -- leader: our Nepal staff and Tibetan guide -- US$2580

Druk Path Trek & Bumthang Festival - Bhutan

Experience the magic and mysticism of Bhutan, land of the Thunder Dragon; the colorful tsechu (Buddhist cham dance festival) of Thangbi Mani in Bumthang, the 5 day Druk Path trek, the 'dzongs' of Punaka, Thimphu and idyllic Paro.

13-24 Sept, 12 days -- expedition-style -- organizer: Kim, leader: Gelay or Anan -- US$2660

Lhasa & Everest Base Camp Overland - Tibet

The classic overland adventure from Lhasa to Kathmandu including Everest North side base camp.

1-15 Sept, 15 days -- jeep tour -- leader: Jamie to Tingri -- US$1480
Team: Miriam U*, Mark Finney, Robert Durand, Charles Loxton, Keith Parsons** & Edwina Dalziel**, John Kottos**

Lost Worlds of the Jumlam - Ladakh & Zanskar

Ladakh, the 'Crossroads of High Asia', is criss-crossed with both modern and ancient trade routes. The Jumlam or 'middle way' is an incredibly scenic trek which traverses from the Indus valley to the ancient kingdom of Zangla via a network of stunning, precipitous gorges, canyons and remote passes.

12 Sept-3 Oct, 22 days -- expedition-style -- leader: Joel -- US$2080
Team: Scott and Van D

We hardly noticed the Autumn chill in the air (ok, maybe Kim did, but she won't admit it) as we trekked through a magical world of river gorges, over high passes, crossed crystal-clear rivers more than 100 times, passed by herds of blue sheep, and camped under a full moon and starry skies. The enthusiasm of our small group was infectious, and our trek was completed by a wild three-day jeep journey via Rangdum and Kargil back to Leh. Thanks, guys, and we'll expect you back for another trek soon!

Trans-Himalayan Tracks 1 *exploratory

An exotic journey through ochre canyons and luminescent valleys of roses where bears still roam, past remote gompas and white-washed villages. We explore hidden valleys of Zanskar, bring an adventurous spirit!

14 Aug-12 Sept, 30 days -- expedition-style -- leaders: Joel & Kim -- US$2580 -- trek full
Team: Frank & Jessica, Jennelle, Paul, Joy, Tom, Donna, Ken
Shorter trek: Giri, Ronan, Ted & Francoise, Beth, Bruce & Lawrence, Jason & Ruth

A difficult trek with more challenges that we would like to admit. The Guberajon, or 'Gompa Rangjung', the 'self-emanating gompa' which towers over the Zanskar valley, provided our inspiration for a trek dedicated to Jason, Joel's brother.

Kharta Valley *exploratory

Probably the best real trek in Tibet. We start in the idyllic Kharta Valley, trek to the incomparable grandeur of the Kangshung face with time for some serious exploration ala Mallory. A Jamie special.

31 Jul-25 Aug, 26 days -- light expedition-style -- leader: Jamie -- US$2450
Team: Toby Wheeler, Chris Klinke* and Samantha Morgan.

Did we say we run only in the best seasons? Wet, wet, wet! We won't trek here again in the monsoon. But between the clouds what panoramas! Although we didn't get up anything high it was a surprisingly successful trek in that we did get to stay two night at the base camp area and explore; very few groups manage this. It is an area we must return to.

L-R: yak driver, Samantha, Tashi. Toby, Dawa Norbu (another yak drivers' son),
Da'Nuru (front), unknown behind, Temba, Chris K and Jamie
Temba and Da'Nuru will be on the Cho Oyu expedition above.

Zanskar, the Land Beyond

The ancient kingdoms of Ladakh and Zanskar are some of the more exotic on earth, and we continue our love affair with this magical place - its diverse people, landscape, religion, villages - by crossing the high, remote lands via a route rarely trekked.

15 July-9 August, 26 days -- expedition-style -- leaders: Kim & Joel -- US$2280
Team: Marv, June, John C*, Steven Williams, Rein Grabbi**, Harry L, Bengt.

Trekking groups don't get much better than this one, and fields of wild-flowers (all documented by June) blanketed the way through the spectacular and magical valleys of Zanskar & Ladakh. June, Marv & Rein proved that 70 is THE age for a three week trek, Bengt dreamed of becoming a dad, John taught us, Stephen paid our gompa entrance fees by Visa, Harry Louw spoke in strange Afrikaners tongues, June kept us laughing, Marv taught us the ways of the American Indians (but we refused to learn the rain dance) and Rein presided over the tent in a god-fatherly manner. Thank you all so much for a wonderful, wonderful trek!

Picture taken by Lhakpa: back row: Rein (Estonia), Bengt (Norway), Stephen & John (UK), Marv (USA), Harry (SA).
In the front: Lobsang, Kim, Joel, Tenpa, June (USA) and Punsok.

Markha Valley

Private trek joining the Land Beyond.

Team: Mattias*** and Helen***.

Back to Ladakh for their third year in a row. Again we managed to link two of our favorite trekkers into a trek already happening. We got back from our nomads trek to find them in Leh with thoughts on the bad weather...but it cleared up the day they started! As I write they are about to pick up some fresh supplies and we join them with 'The Land beyond' group later this week.

Markha valley Beyond

A trek through a valley of ancient hilltop gompas and villages in motion, joining the 'Nomads of Changthang' group at the start of their journey. A perfect holiday for those with less time.

11-23 June, 13 days -- expedition-style -- leaders: Kim & Joel -- US$1450
Team: Willie and Eric.

Combined with the trek below.

Nomads of the Changthang

Following ancient caravan trails, this is a 'best of Ladakh' trek - open grasslands, jagged peaks, turquoise lakes, picturesque villages, Buddhist gompas, incredible passes and of course the Tibetan nomads that roam the high plateau.

11 June-10 July, 30 days -- expedition-style -- leaders: Joel & Kim -- US$2580
Team: Max**, Dagmar, Seth and Steve.

Joel says: 'Comings and goings' and the 'summer is not here yet' as the Ladakhis keep saying. Nomads Steve (UK), Dagmar (UK) amd Seth (USA) were joined for the first section by surf instructor Eric (it is true, NOLS have surfing courses!), and a friend of Kim's living in Kathmandu, Willi. Through sun and sleet to Nimaling, with Dagmar entertaining village kids with her guitar.

Climbing the Chokspa la we found that the horses could not get through the deep snow so we rewrote the itinerary; over the Kongmaru La so Willi and Eric could get back to Leh, then on to Kharnak via our classic route, picking up Max Sadler, one of Joel's fellow teachers in the Khumbu in 2000, and a veteran of the first Caravan in 2000, en route to the "Valley of the Kiangs" and Tso Moriri.

We had rain, snow, heat, and difficult conditions, from Dagmar's blisters to Seth's awesome singing to beach parties a la British seaside resorts (rain, drizzle and fog). We had rivers in flood that Lobsang got us over and Lhakpa swam in (accidentally), but thanks to our great crew and our logistical expertise, we had an awesome adventure!

[Almost the entire Indian state of Gujarat was flooded at this time].

L-R: Joel, Kim, Max, Steve, Seth and Dagmar.

2005 Tibetan Spring

Simikot Trek Saga Dawa Kailash

The breath-taking kora of Mount Kailash is the ultimate pilgrimage for Tibetans and Hindus alike. Add a wild trek into Tibet from Humla in far west Nepal, the Saga Dawa festival, Tibetan nomads, Buddhist lamas and a jeep safari to Lhasa for the journey of a lifetime!

9 May-4 June, 27 days -- expedition-style -- leader: Kim Bannister -- US$3880
Team: Peter Santos, Samuel G***, Jim D, Harshad P, Ivan B.

Ivan writes:
"so here I am again sat at a desk in the corporate world working away as though nothing happened it will take me a few weeks to fully absorb the experience we all shared but I really feel that it was significant, wonderful, inspirational and much much more... and once again a BIG THANKS for all the organizing that made this trip possible and thanks to you for being you!"

Samuel writes:
"Kim this trek was special. Different and better than any other I did before. Somehow the group became a "band of brothers". The spiritual content of the trip produce a calm warm friendship between all of us. That is unique in a trek. And you where the one that made all this good things happened. Thank you."

Kim says:
Simikot/Humla is an amazing region of Nepal, very Tibetan in character but with a twist; men smoking hookas, women adorned in colorful strands of glass beads, a mix of Buddhist and Hindus and a strong sense of independence and uniqueness. Crossing into Tibet, honestly, in all my years trekking I’ve never been on a pass which, on the northern side, is so exposed, the trail covered with snow and ice leading down a few thousand meters to a small, rocky river far below. Barely there, and our horses couldn’t pass, so we hired 17 or so local Tibetan / Humla porters for the day. Truly an epic trekking day in the Himalaya! And we made it to Tibet, Kailash, and the Saga Dawa (full moon on the 4th month) festival, which – although windy, cold, bumpy and hard – was wonderful! My trekkers turned out to be closet shoppers, and even put me to shame!

L-R: Tibetan guide Phubu, Samuel G, Jim Daniels, Peter Santos (Kim below), sirdar Wangchuu, Harshad Patel, Ivan Bunner

Everest ABC 6400m

We touch Everest on the highest trek in the world! We visit Jamie's Everest Expedition around the time they might be summitting.

8-29 May, 22 days -- expedition-style -- leader: Kim in Kathmandu, Tibetan guide in Tibet -- US$2580
Team: Belinda, Paul, Mike and Liz, the two Danes. Crew: Kipa, Tawa, Nima and Nawang Tashi.

Belinda writes: The trek was totally fantastic – everything I had hoped for and more. It was tough, mainly because I had a nasty bout of gastro early on, then was affected by the altitude somewhat. However, I wouldn’t have changed a thing about the trek, it was really well organized and run and the guys did a fabulous job of everything.

It was just so exciting to see Tibet – what an amazing country, the people were great fun and everything ran so smoothly. Seeing Everest and coming up to ABC was a dream come true...

Everest ABC 6400m

Private trip.

10 Apr-6 May, 22 days -- expedition-style
Team: Alberto** and Elizabet**. Crew: Kipa, Tawa, Nima and Nawang Tashi.

+ Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH

We are offering comprehensive and reliable BC-ABC services with rescue planned for, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services too. See the dispatches for this expedition.

3/4 Apr-7 June, 65 days -- BC-ABC support-- Manager: Jamie McGuinness -- US$10,000+oxygen+sherpa
Team: +Dr Julian, Moe Memon**, Sukhwinder Sukhi and +Paul Boslooper.
Crew: Jamie McGuinness, Duncan Chessell, +Dawa Gelje, Temba, +Namgyal, +Da'Wangchu, Dorje and Da'Nuru
Summits: Julian, Dawa and Da'Wangchu 30 May, Paul and Namgyal 4 June.
Safety: no injuries although there was some drama when Sukhi said she would summit or die. Luckily she did neither. In the media she claimed frostbite but instead it was crushed toes due to her boots being too small.

Success! And more importantly, we lost no members to sickness, we had no frostbite, and were the only expedition to finish with one more member than we started with! Special thanks to Doctor Julian, who did such a great and much appreciated job both with our and for other teams.

Julian elated on the summit.

Lhasa & Everest Base Camp overland

The classic overland adventure by Landcruiser from Lhasa to the lush Kathmandu Valley, visiting Shigatse, Gyantse and Everest Base Camp for stunning views of the north side of Everest (Chomolungma) en route. Ties in with Everest High Passes.

27 Mar-10 April, 15 days -- jeep tour -- leader: Jamie in Kathmandu, Tibetan guide in Tibet -- US$1480
Team: Colin* & Jo* Martin.

2005 Everest Spring

Classic Everest treks in Nepal and Tibet, all in safe regions!

Everest Base Camp trek - Gokyo and Kala Pattar - Nepal

Experience the Sherpa high country and the incredible mountains. This trek has it all: Gokyo lakes, the Cho la pass, and of course Everest Base camp and Kala Pattar, with plenty of time to enjoy this once in a life time trip.

23 Apr-16 May, 24 days -- teahouse trekking -- leader: Joel Schone -- US$2250
Team: Sonia Basso, David O'Leary, Andy & Katherine Ody.

Joel writes:
Trekking is beautiful, exhausting, exhilarating. And hard! And our spring Everest trek was all those things; terrible weather, but clear on both Gokyo and Kala Pattar. The trek, kick started by Andy and Katherine Ody by asking us to move the dates of our departure, was joined by David in Irish strip, and then Sonia from Argentina asked about Tibet, ended up coming to only the first part of the trek, then all of it, after I had spent half an hour reassuring her mother on the phone about how safe Everest was; "How safe is Nepal and where is it?"

So a Scotsman and his Greek wife, an Irishman, an Argentinean and an American. Thank you for your company and for getting through all that bad weather without 'Buns of steel'.

Everest High Passes trek - Nepal

The best - indeed virtually all - of the Everest region; we cross the Cho La and the Renjo La, explore the stunning Gokyo lakes region, climb Gokyo Ri and Kala Pattar, visit Everest Base Camp and more, relaxing in cozy Sherpa lodges along the way.

12 Apr-5 May, 24 days -- teahouse trekking -- leader: Kim Bannister -- US$2250
Team: Colin** & Jo Martin**, Mike Schumaker, Stephen & Nicoletta.

Kim writes: So, a slightly belated THANK YOU to you all for making the High Passes trip such a wonderful one for me, for being so enthusiastic about every day, for helping me and each other and for being such great company throughout the trek and our extended time in Kathmandu. I miss you all!

Mera expedition 6476m - Nepal

Mountains so big, you fall over backwards looking at them! Although the route is heavily crevassed there are no other major obstacles, most people fail on this peak only because of acclimatization. We do it smart with a couple of extra days.

4-26 Apr, 23 days -- expedition-style -- leader: Billi Bierling -- US$2480
Team: Dr Sam, Dr Marwan, Rosanna.

Rosanna writes: our trek was wonderful, all of us summitted, with Pasang, Zangbu and Nahua, and I'm extremely happy about the whole adventure. Billi is fantastic, and she has been a perfect leader, not only from the "mountain" point of view, but also as team-mate, tent-mate and friend!!

On top of Mera Peak! Marwan, Billi and Sam; Rosanna lower - Rosanna

2005 Zanskar ice

Chadar Zanskar - India

The summer way into Zanskar crosses many passes, in winter the locals simply walk the frozen Zanskar River, and we will follow into the Kingdom of Zangla, perhaps with some exploring.

Dates: 30 Jan-26 Feb 2005, 28 days. Services: light expedition-style. Leader: Joel Schone. Cost: US$2220.
team: Ben** and Diana**, Tad Hardee and Peter.

Snowstorms, avalanches, and very bad ice conditions means that few of the trekking groups that set out to walk the Chadar in early February made it to the kingdom of Zangla, and if they did, they flew out by rescue helicopter, one experience of the frozen Zanskar being enough. We made Zangla in time for Tibetan New Year, and a good chang party, before returning the way we came; even Lobsang, Eskimo extraordinaire on ice, said we were lucky to do it in such conditions. [The news was filled with the 175 people in Kashmir who died in avalanches and under 4 metres of snow at this very time].

Thanks to Tad, Ben, Diana, and Peter (the Dane) for being such good company as we had cocktail parties in caves, sat out long afternoons in Pidmo and Neraks, breaking trails, and above all, sharing the adventure!

Chadar Zanskar - India

The summer way into Zanskar crosses many passes, in winter the locals simply walk the frozen Zanskar River... We build on Joel's Feb 2002 trek, which he is still raving about.

Dates: 6-26 Jan, 21 days. Services: light expedition-style. Leader: Joel Schone. Cost: US$1980.
Team: Markus* and Christine*.

When the seasons 'ad its day
And you're countin' up your pay
You can keep your fancy haunts
(and I'll ignore your taunts)
Because there is a place I know I'd rather be
Where the Indus starts to freeze
And frost smoke wreathes the trees
We took the Chadar route
To where Zanskar lay....

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