Changthang Passes *exploratory

We traverse a lightly trekked region of the Ladakh Range

Our 2012 exploration (Flickr photos) revealed just how high and unexplored the Changthang and Rong part of the Ladakh Range is, with the local headman telling us that no trekkers had ever crossed the 5850m Gongma La (as of 2012), the pass we were aiming for. We didn't meet a single other trekking group for the entire trip (2012 and 2018), during absolute peak season. Yet it was wonderful trekking and camping, and with plenty of wildlife too.

This time we trek in a logical loop that enables us to extend our trek or alternatively take it more slowly and skip the third segment. So, we aim to explore up to the Gongma La, but perhaps instead of crossing it, we will loop around crossing the slightly less high 5600m Yar La to the wonderful nomad grasslands of Harong, featured in the banner photo above. Ladakh has many of these high altitude grazing plains however few are open to trekkers.

Heading up through more expansive grazing areas, we recross the Ladakh Range via the barely used Gun La 5650m, but with the option of a day trip to the other side of the Gongma La. Descending to Kungyam, we cross the hot Indus River valley and climb again into the cooler regions through the pleasant village of Tiri. There's colourful rock and after a wide pass, we descend towards Tso Kar or possibly Rumtse for a change of scenery, depending on the time available.

This is classic high altitude trekking with meandering streams, moody expansive landscapes, an endless succession of delightful campsites, some rambling exploring, and perhaps some optional peak scrambling. Our itinerary is flexible and we will adapt as needed en route.

Highlights

+ epic, moody landscapes

+ big sky trekking

+ meet nomads

+ peak scrambling

+ unique route

+ no other trekkers

+ idyllic camps

+ sound acclimatization plan

Details

25 June-18 July, 24 days, USD2980

trip deposit USD780

Start and end in Leh, airport code IXL

max 8 bookings

single supplement included

Preparation

trek gear discussion

India visa

getting to Leh

insurance: hiking under 6000m

Leaders

Jamie McGuinness with

Kunga and team

Leh hotel

Hotel Omasila, manager: Phunii

Changspa, Leh

extra nights: single $50, double $60

Leh office

Stanzin Jorgays (Joey)

Zanskar Trek

Our service includes

Leh airport transfers

hotels with breakfast and guesthouses

group transportation by private vehicle

Leh sightseeing

Leh group dinner

Camping trek includes

all meals and hot drinks

roomy single tent/ big double for couples

horse porterage

very experienced crew

comfy backup foam mattress

Nice touches included

compact Himalayan library

cards and Scrabble

filtered drinking water at camp

comprehensive first aid kit

(including altitude medicines & antibiotics)

Our service excludes

lunches and dinners in Leh

domestic flights

Delhi airport transfer, hotel, but we can advise

insurance, India visa, international flights, equipment rental, alcohol and soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Tips & extra cash

allow approx $100 for Leh meals

we suggest 5% of the trip cost per trekker for the crew tips pool

Day 0 - early arrival

Do plan your arrival time well, considering your flight to Leh, see Delhi-Leh travel. We are happy to assist planning, and with early arrival provide transfer and hotel booking.

Day 1 - Wednesday 25 June 2025 - meet in Leh 3500m

We meet you at Leh airport (code IXL) and you can now relax.

**This is the second and last day of the Hemi Tsechu Cham masked dances, so it might be worth arriving a day earlier, perhaps two days earlier, if you want to see the whole performance.**

2-3 - Leh 3500m / 11,400ft

Time to unwind and explore, and the all important time acclimatizing. Leh is a sightseer's and photographer's paradise. Experience the gompas and festivals.

4 - drive Chokdo 3980m

At last we leave Leh, visiting Hemis Gompa before driving to the end of the usual Markha Valley trek. We eat and sleep in a traditional homestay.

5 - trek Lato 4000m via Kichen La 4670m

Stretching the legs, we ascend a scenic pass then descend a colourful valley where we meet Lobsang again and have a short drive to a simple hotel on the Leh-Manali highway.

6 - drive Namchang, short trek to Kagtsa camp 4280m

Driving back to the Indus River valley, we soon duck up the Ligche side valley to the end of the road. We meet the horse team and set up camp at the nearest good camping spot, again, at the perfect altitude for acclimatizing.

7 - explore Kagtsa camp 4280m

We explore from our camp, or perhaps move slightly higher if there is a suitable higher camp suggested by the locals.

8 - trek Junction Camp 4750m

This is only a couple of hours trekking so we explore out of the main valley system en route, or have a relaxing afternoon.

9 - explore Junction camp 4750m

Do you take a rest day or explore far and wide and high? Your choice!

10 - explore Junction camp 4750m to Gongma La

This will be a tougher day trip, however the aim is to explore to the top of the 5850m Gongma La. This is also an area of wolves, snow leopard and other wildlife, let's see what we can spot.

11 - trek good camp ~5000m

We briefly backtrack then shortcut the bend to climb up this delightful valley to a good camp site which makes a base for our pass crossing tomorrow.

12 - trek Bulchen 4800m via Yongma La 5600m

Trekking slowly up, we cross this rough pass, called the Yar La on the Olizane map, then head down the other side to where ever we reach.

13 - trek Chipra-Harong 4370m

Trekking down the valley, we find a campsite by this huge grassy plain dotted with nomads and their grazing animals.

14 - Chipbra-Harong 4370m

We have a rest day, or perhaps instead could take this at Bulchen. We may have a resupply here, with Lobsang bringing in fresh supplies from Leh.

15 - trek Chibra Kargyam or Kargyam Barma 4550m

Trekking up this wide valley, we'll stop where we feel like it!

16 - trek Gun La Base Camp ~5150m

Heading up this side valley, we perhaps camp where the Gongma La route joins into this valley.

17 - Gun La Base Camp ~5150m

Perhaps we take a rest day here to check our route for tomorrow, and also explore up the other side of the Gongma La.

18 - trek Kungyam Chu via Gun La 5650m

It is a rough climb up to the pass then after a short, steep descent, we are in a pleasant valley and we camp where we end up.

19 - trek-drive Tiri / Tirido

Descending the valley, instead of trekking in the hot Indus River valley, we meet Lobsang and drive to the village Tirido, perhaps staying at a camp slightly above Tiri, depending on where the horses can reach.

20 - High Camp

A shorter day, we climb a cute, small pass and see where we can camp afterwards. We last trekked this area in

21 - rest-explore

We are due for another rest day, which can be here or at the Tiri village camp.

22 - trek side valley camp via pass 5130m

Choose where to cross this wide, almost imperceptable pass. There are lots of kiang here.

23 - trek-drive Leh

We trek down valley to meet our jeeps and drive to Leh in time for a shower then a celebratory dinner.

Day 24 - Friday 18 July - trip ends

You are free to fly out today or stay on in this town of yore.