Lobsang and team
Our India crew
"... the crew was unbelievable and Brody and I are now ruined
for life when it comes to trekking elsewhere!"
- Kim and Brody Wilcox, Stok Kangri and Markha
Lobsang has been the mainstay of our India treks since 2000, usually organizing and guiding but often also cooking for small groups, and also guiding our private groups. We like to work with the same regular crew although we have cycled through a few cooks. Ram Lal and his horse-mule team are simply the best in the land and the reason we can run the wildest exploratory treks.
Glorious 2001 memories; Lobsang (still works with us), Tenpa (Temba; after many years with us is now in Switzerland), Sherap (Tsarap who still comes along, and works with Kim) and Punchok (Phuntsok now working with Luke and occasionally for us too)
Kim was a Project Himalaya partner from 2002-2015, and Luke partnered from 2010-12 - photo by the one and only Joel Schone
Trekkers say
we are very happy with the trek and the whole trip. ... I sincerely thank you and your team for the perfectly organized and realized Ladakh exploration.
Ints M, 2023 Tso Zanskar
Thank you for a truly brilliant trek – we all absolutely loved the whole experience – the wonderful team, the remoteness, the passes and peaks, the wildlife and the support and company of you and Esther.
Mike Grocott and family, 2023 private month-long trek
We had a fantastic trek in Ladakh with Jamie and Esther. Jamie’s meticulous planning meant that everything went smoothly and Esther’s delight in spotting wildlife, with binoculars always at the ready, meant we saw loads. The wonderful team provided delicious hearty meals, great company and support. Spectacular scenery, quality outdoor living, and a 6,250m peak to boot. We would thoroughly recommend!!
Nick Badman, private Markha & Dzo Jongo 2022
There is no one like Lobsang in the mountains. I would trust him with my life. NOTHING passes him by at any level - from people's strength on the trail, what they like to eat/drink, and whether there's any tent-hopping going on!! He is without peer in the mountains - the strongest and safest pair of hands.
Alison Tucker
I would like to thank you all for your invaluable contributions to this unique experience. I think I speak for all my friends when I say that the trek was great, the itinerary very well chosen (I particularly enjoyed the segment after Nimaling and the Changthang valley), Lobsang was the bestest of all guides and his team was also quite competent and attentive. Regarding Lobsang, I was impressed by his special gift to read our needs and offer solutions even before we had a chance to verbalize anything. He also knows all the best camp sites and trails and is quite resourceful. Raj was our cook and he did an excellent job. The helpers were quite attentive and always ready to make themselves useful to us. I was also impressed with how gently Ram Lal and Sirouch treated the horses, unlike other parties that we crossed paths with on this trip.
Thanks again, Adriana
... - thanks for a wonderful trip!!!
Eileen and I had a enjoyed everything and appreciate all the planning and advice. Felt we were very well prepared.
Lobsang was a terrific guide. He is very professional and organized - I appreciated his sense of humor (glad he put up with
mine)!Very impressed when Lobsang divided our tips openly and equally among the crew. He also included the two drivers with a smaller share. Such a strong display of leadership - guessing each of the crew would love to work with him again!
Appreciative of the strong and very competent supportive crew - they worked!
And the food was delicious!
The pace of the hiking up the Markha Valley was very good for the group. Although some might go faster or further, the pace throughout was good for the group.
Felt that Lobsang read the group VERY well.
...
John & Eileen
The crew
We have worked with the same core crew for for years, and in a couple of cases for two decades and these people are the reason we can run ambitious treks. Between us, we have huge experience and it is not an exaggeration to say we know the backwaters of Ladakh and Zanskar better than anyone else. Additionally, being brought up as Changpa (herders) and in a Zanskar village, they have unrivalled local knowledge too.
Ram Lal
With a trekking judgement second to none, Ram Lal and his team of strong mules and horses is one of the reasons we can run our remote, tough treks. Few horsemen would dare, while Ram Lal positively enjoys exploring and helping out around camp, and has been working with us for close to two decades now.
Ram Lal is from near Manali, which is where his mules and horses spend the winter. It takes them more than a week to trek up to meet us at the beginning of the season. The reason we work with Ram Lal and his Manali animals is that only horses (not mules) can survive Ladakh's winters and finish skinny and relatively weak, not ready at the beginning of the season for tough treks or very high passes. They need to fatten up first, and this was a factor for a couple of treks years ago, the reason we could not cross the passes we planned to. In contrast, Manali mules arrive strong and ready for anything (and don't get pregnant either). You will not believe the strength, endurance and their surefootedness ...
Stanzin Kunga
From Kargyak in Zanskar, his father was a horseman on some of our treks years ago and asked if we could take his son trekking. After helping out since 2016, Kunga is now guide if Lobsang stays back to manage the logistics of a trek.
Fluent in English (and studied English literature) Kunga has a Masters degree in political science and economics and is hoping to become a teacher.
We usually call Kunga by his last name as we have another Stanzin working for us, and Stanzin Dorjee is usually just called Dorjee, which is perfectly fine with everyone, strange though it may seem to us.
Stanzin Kunga - Jamie
Stanzin Dorjee
Now a regular, Dorjee was brought up a nomad around Korzok then educated in Leh. We often meet his shepherd friends when trekking in nomad country, and of course they are always invited in to the kitchen tent.
Lobsang Chomphel
Born in the Hanle area of the Changthang, he served 7 years in the military. On leaving he worked as a drivers’ mate before getting into the trekking business, portering and acting as kitchen assistant. He and Joel met on a trek to Tsomoriri in 1998. He is incredibly strong, sensitive to the needs of trekkers, and when the chips are down and things go awry, is always there, whether dealing with bears, rivers in flood, ‘impossible’ routes, or lost trekkers.
As well as an accomplished guide and organizer, he is an excellent cook (and itinerant trader) and so we can run small groups without taking excessive staff. Post-covid, Lobsang has lead some treks and provided logistics for others as Stanzin Kunga, after years of working with us, guides some treks instead.
2017: Lobsang helping Raj in the kitchen - Jamie
Lobsang serves a delicious meal of assorted flavourful but non-spicy curries - Jamie
Ram Lal, horse whisperer - Jamie
Ram Lal, the best horseman there is - Jamie
Memories
A selection of memories of our trekking days.
Recent previous treks | 2018
2017 | 2016 |2015 | 2014 | 2013 | 2012
2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006
2005 | 2004 | 2002-03 | 2000-01 | pre-2000
2023 Lobsang, Jamie, Esther, David, Jim and Chanden in Manali
2023 Chanden (cook), Tashi (pickup driver), Stanzin Dorjee, stanzin Kunga, Jim Twiss and Lobsang
2022 Dorjee, Kunga, Esther and Jamie atop Dzo Jongo
2019 Ladakh Peaks & Passes: Lobsang, Ahmed, Mike T, Laura, Jamie, Kat, Esther, Fred
2018 Markha & Dzo Jongo Ri: Raj, Kungha, Pema, Ram Lal, Lobsang, Mandi, Kunsang, Stanzin, Bernard, Yuen, Dave, Kristina, Catie, Zoltan, Esther and Jamie
2017 star crew: Lobsang, Sunoj, Tenzin, Jamie, Kunga, Tej and Raj - missing Ram Lal
2014 Great Divide team atop the remote Pangpo La, a real achievement.
Lobsang, Luca, Tod (hidden) Demet, David, Arabella, Len, Helena, Jussi and Jamie
The team at the end: H, Lobsang, Hanna, Ram Lal, Roshan, Bridge Lal, Jamie, Nawang, Yamphel, Punsok, Ranjan and Veronica
Above leads to the Flickr link and do hit the slideshow button for a full screen experience.
2013 Zanskar Traverse
Punsok, Ram Lal, Harish, Lobsang, Filip and Laura; Jamie took the photo
2013 Lungsur Kangri expedition
Paul, Marischka, Garry, Lobsang, Ranjan and Olivier; Jamie took the photo, and Ashby was on walkabout
2012 GHT Kanji Canyons exploratory
L-R: Jamie, Sitar (Rithar), Lobsang, Sophie, Esther, Tenzin and our six horses plus the tough mule
2011 Zanskar Tribute for Joel
L-R: Lois, Jamie, Lobsang, Steve, Ram Lal, Peter Sih, Kunsang, Sonam, Sam Palsmeier, Punsok
L-R: Louise Dunlop, Peter Sih, John Soos, Nakul, Lois, Steve, Catherine, Christine, Robin Boustead, Sam Palsmeier, Luke Smithwick (red, back), Richard Nacin
And on the right:
Lobsang in white t-shirt, Yangzon, Nima Lhamu
The puja to remember Joel, and to send his spirit off, in Manali - Jamie
Harish, horseman helper
2008 from the left: Champ behind Nina, Leigh, Loren, John, Robert, Emma, Pema, Murray, Ali, Lobsang, Corrine, Paul, Tenpa, Kunsang, Guido - Joel Schone
2008 Traverse team on the Pin Parvati, L-R: Ben Schone, Katherine, Stanzin, Curt, Lobsang, Alan, Carolyn & Greg (in front) Alfredo and Doriana
2008: Prasad, Tenpa, Tsampel, Kunsang, Singge, Norbu, Sander and Corrin - Joel Schone
2008: Susanah, Mallory, Marylene, Genevieve, Stanzin, Francesca
Front row: Singge, Lobsang, Audrey, Ezia, Jess and Mike
2008 on the Kang La, L-R: Wilson, Paul, Lucy, Adam, (Lobsang front) Peter, Alan, Marta, Dave, Stanzin, John, Sonam
And in the Jumlam: Lobsang, Lucy sitting, Stanzin, John, Paul, Alan, Dave, Peter, Wilson, Marta sitting
L-R: Scarlett, Lobsang, Kit, Susan and Paul
2007: David, Dan, Amy, Lobsang, Leigh & Tom, Singge in front (check his story out - you will cry, I promise) - photo by Joel
2007 L-R, back row: Ley, Megan, John and Glen
Middle row: Norbu, Tenpa, Kunsang, Phunsok, and in front Stanzin and Lobsang
2007 Lobsang, Sunil and Martin - photo by Joel
2007: Nick, Daniel, Gaye*, Lobsang, Peter, Martin (behind) and Romany - Joel
2006 back row: Rein, Bengt, Stephen & John, Marv, Harry.
In the front: Lobsang, Kim, Joel, Tenpa, June and Punsok.
2005
2004: Lobsang, Eric, Andriya, Brian and Rana (cook)
2001 in Kathmandu
2000
2000 on top of Tengkoma in Nepal; Lobsang, Joel and Jamie
Recent previous treks | 2022 | 2019-21| 2018
2017 | 2016 |2015 | 2014 | 2013 | 2012
2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006
2005 | 2004 | 2002-03 | 2000-01 | pre-2000
2011-2015 expeditions | 2000-2010 expeditions | 2004-2010 expedition dispatches
What others have said
With over 30 years in the hospitality and hotel business, I know having the right team is all important; you have that team, and their work is a reflection of your [Joel's] leadership.
Richard Chapman, GM, Sheraton Bangkok
I have done a lot of expeditions throughout the world, and this is hands down the best trekking food I've ever had.
Arabella Slinger
Thanks again for a great trip. You are the "best in class operator" for the Indian Himalaya and your trips have a high "value quotient". ... Your trips are worth it.
Fred M, Caravan; a Mountain Passage
[Peter's camera] fell on the path, slipped on the icy snow and started to bounce down the mountainside. There was nothing we could do. We could only watch it as it bounced about 10 times or more down the 150m or so to the bottom where we could not see it any more. This bouncing camera case kept replaying in my mind for the rest of the day as we climbed to the pass (2.5 hrs of puffing and resting and puffing again)...
When we arrived [at camp] Lobsang, the Ladakhi/Tibetan guide came up to us and opened his rucksack and pulled out....Peter’s camera case with camera and lens intact and all still in working order. We have never been so flabbergasted in our lives. It took us a full minute before we came to our senses and thanked him and then we sat for the next half an hour just looking at it and trying it out and looking at it again and asking Lobsang how he found it. Joel had told him below the pass (on the other side to the camera) about the incident and Lobsang had returned up over the pass, down the other side on his own route through the snow, following the line of the gulley into which the camera fell and found it. In effect he had climbed the pass twice that day and still arrived at the camp before us! We really had an amazing team.
We walked an average of 6-7 hours a day and when we arrived at the campsite the horses and mules had usually already arrived, the kitchen tent was set up and the cook (Tenpa, a real genius) would have tea, or any other hot drink you liked, ready and snacks.
Susan, Zanskar Spring
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