Everest High Passes Trek

The best of the Everest region! We cross the Cho La & Renjo La ( with Kongma La option), visit Everest Base Camp, explore the spectacular Gokyo lakes valley, climb Gokyo Ri, Kala Pattar & Chhukhung Ri and trek the Chhukhung & Thame valleys, relaxing in Sherpa lodges en route.

9 Nov-3 Dec, 25 days — teahouse trekking — Kim & Lhakpa — US$3480
Team: Lorraine***, Wayne, Vernon, Paul D, Tom B***, Andreas, Graham, Tyler, Will, Michelle
Crew: Junar, Suresh, Yam, Maila, Chittra & 2 yakmen

GHT Manaslu Ganesh Himal

Along the GHT, a classic camping trek around Manaslu "in reverse" and under the Ganesh Himal.

Just why is the Ganesh Himal "magical and mysterious"? The few trekkers that have traversed it do rave; however I have yet to find one who didn't get lost... Paul and myself finish the GHT!

Manaslu-Ganesh: 29 Oct-30 Nov, 33 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness — US$3580
Manaslu: 29 Oct-20 Nov, 23 days — expedition style — US$1980
Ganesh: 10-30 Nov, 21 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness — US$1980
Team: Paul Murrill*********
Crew: Da'Gyalgen (cook-sirdar), Lhakpa and porters

This was a trek for Paul and Jamie to finish their Great Himalaya Trail but sadly Jamie (lightly) injured himself on the previous trip, and in the end with no other takers, it was Paul trekking with just the crew. He did succeed though, and achieved a life goal of completing the Great Himalaya Trail extreme route, including our special Darchula to Simikot section that no other trekkers (other than that team) have yet trekked.

I finished the Manaslu and Ganesh sections of my personal GHT with the Tamang Heritage Trail tagged on to the end. All in all it was a short, easy trip with perfect weather every day. I only used my cold [weather] clothing a couple of times as the elevation was low. The trip turned out to be a private one as I was the only person interested and needed to do it to complete my personal GHT. I was accompanied by two Sherpas and four Tamangs. Dawa Geljin #2 (a cousin of the Dawa many of us know, also from Kurima) was in charge, the main cook (everybody pitched in) and my constant companion while walking Dawa is a very wonderful man and very experienced guide always smiling and making sure that I know that I am the boss and decision maker. Every meal was discussed and carried out to my wishes and cooked very well. My only failure was to convince him to put more baking soda in the pancakes. Any time we were not camped inside a tea house compound he and nephew Mingma would stand watches throughout the night alert for possible thieves. I offered to do a shift but was rebuffed.

We started on the Annapurna circuit and left it after two nights headed east for the Larkya La and the Manaslu trek. We had perfect weather and easily crossed the snowy pass but then the long gradual descent to the camp and tea house at the camp and tea house was long and tiring for me, our only long day of the trip. Onward to Sama for two nights which is a very old traditional village of Tibetan culture plus a huge tea house area. My favorite village for old Nepali/Tibetan bhotia culture.

The next stop was in a corn field an hour before the bridge at Tatopani. The next day the Ganesh route left the east bank and headed up through the jungle and nettles on a faint trail that got better the higher we went. Those Himalyan nettles are vicious as many of you know. Next time I am going to try to have baking soda handy to see if they can be neutralized. The next couple of days were a few large villages and another climb through a jungle area to Nauban Kharka and a nice forest camp surrounded by very old fir trees and rhododendrons. Then over some low forested passes into the Ganesh drainages which were very rich agriculturally with the largest number of water buffalo and cows I have seen in Nepal. We averaged about one tourist a day which was a huge contrast to Manaslu with about 100, mostly French. The Ganesh has very friendly locals, when the kids did their namastes you could here the sound of their hands coming together in enthusiasm.

Panzang Pass was a high point with good views of the Ganesh Himal except Ganesh 1. We had about four extra days so I considered going to Paldor Base Camp but after reading the guide book I decided that the Tamang Heritage Trail would fit the time perfectly and be a fitting end to the trip which turned out to be true. So, we arrived at Parvati Kunde just above Gatlang and a day's walk from the road at Syabrubasi.

It has a with a very religious to aspect like most lakes in the Himalayas and a short pleasant Kora around it. Ten minutes above is a cheese factory which was a nice visit with the cheese maker. There is also a Tamang gompa which was in full operation celebrating the full moon. All very interesting and great to see. The next stop was Gonggang and a tea house with three beautiful sisters for our last night with the porters who were headed home the next day. From here we passed Tatopani, not feeling dirty enough to sample the large pools of hot water we went on up to Nagthali so we could hike of an hour to Taruche viewpoint to see Ganesh 1 and the rock formation which gives the range its name. A very perfect end to the Ganesh trek. After a few hours of viewing we headed back to the teahouse and had lunch and then descended to Thuman another very old Tamang village with a very old, dirty but active gompa with a death celebration going on to which I was welcomed and served rakshi. A nice small teahouse served very well for our last night on the trail. We avoided the road to Syabrubesi by continuing on a trail to the east via Briddim and then down to the bridge and the Langtang trail where I crossed  paths with last year's trip and completed my personal GHT.

All in all, it was a good trip although pretty easy and warm in contrast to all my other GHT treks. I really liked having my own trip and Dawa #2 worked on keeping me company at appropriate times.

Thinking about the trip more, now at home, having Dawa as a companion/guide may have been the highlight of the adventure.

Many thanks to Jamie for organizing the trip and to Expedition Himalaya for logistics.

- Paul

Sacred Dolpo to Mustang

Upper Dolpo, a Tibetan border region of hidden villages and monasteries tucked away in remote Himalayan valleys, is Nepal's Shangri-La. Join our explorations to the most far-flung of Dolpo's destinations - Shey, Phoksundo Lake, Panzang valley & the high route to Mustang.

28 Sept-28 Oct, 31 days — expedition style — Kim & Lhakpa — US$5480
Team: Kathy, Mary & Ross McI, Karen & Mark, Sue W***, Baz***, Roger, Barrie, Tom B**, Michael, Leo, Susan L
Crew: Lhakpa, Junar, Suresh, Yam, Maila, Chittra, Pasang, Pemba, Thinle & 4 Dolpo horsemen

Re Cyclone Hudhud and the deaths in the Annapurna region: Kim's team were all 110% fine and only got a little snow where they were. They changed their trek route to avoid snowy passes and finished in Dunai-Juphal instead.

Dolpo Mu La exploration

All change; with some cancellations, Alan had a great new idea and so we go exploring in Dolpo over a little-known 5700m pass that keeps us in Lower Dolpo despite the fact we finish in Jomsom...

25 Sept-25 Oct, 31 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness -- US$3980
Team: Alan Kerr****, Andy McD***
Crew: Pasang Gyelu, young Mingma, Nima Holmo, Lhakpa and seven porters

There is a first for everything; the first time in over 100 treks I have evacuated a trek team. Thank you, Alan's insurance company (Snow Card). That was Alan and Pasang out, then with some wizardry from the team in Kathmandu and Lhakpa in Chharka, and with the unknowing assistance of a trek team who had already had multiple evacs BEFORE the storm, we managed to pull out the crew too, even all the trek gear, "rescued". It was in reaction to Cyclone Hudhud, of course, and sad to say that the trek crew of a small group only a day or two ahead of us died.

See my thoughts on the sad and unnecessary Hudhud storm disaster.

Cutting again to the chase, our exploration found that the 5700m Mu La is a perfect pass for GHTer's who want to avoid the $500 Upper Dolpo fee. This is despite the fact we couldn't cross the pass due to Hudhud. The pass is not named on any maps yet is suitable for mules, local 5 year olds and grannies according to the locals. We will head back to explore-cross it for real, and climb a peak nearby, get in touch if interested (and did in 2016, with success).

Now the detail. It was a bit of a boyz trek, with Andy's perky "that's what she said," something that I used to play on too, and Alan's Viz Magnafartlet for some evening chuckles. Not to mention copious quantities of the real thing, I am surprised the dining tent didn't take off sometimes.

Given that this was the second itinerary change, and starting during the biggest festival of the year, I kept logistics simple with a driving start and a middle trek in to the high country before heading off the beaten track. Yes, we dripped with sweat occasionally but the green rice paddies and the simple hospitality of remote villages were rewards, even if our views of the big peaks in the first section were mostly obscured.

This middle hills start was a good reminder about how treks are changing with rough vehicle tracks and mule trails pushing in. There are now few middle hills trek starts that start cleanly at a true roadhead. First the road to Darbang was broken so luckily we were able to trek on the other side of the river but later walked along road sections of in various states of driveability for a couple of days. This could have been arduous but wasn't in this case. Second, with trails upgraded (partly by USAID food security) there are now many routes, including most Dolpo treks, that are suitable for mules-ponies, and the age of the heavily burdened porter is fading, even though there is still massive unemployment in the hills.

The middle hills were a delight, almost always shelter nearby when the monsoon let us know it wasn't quite finished, but also brutal. The Darbang-Dolpo route is up and down and up and down and the route not particularly clear, with trails at variance with the maps and even the locals not always giving the best trail advice, surprisingly. We took some shortcuts, and didn't find a couple until too late; extra views!

Dropping in to Tarakot, Lower Dolpo, the hillsides grew to jawdropping scale and a rough dustiness typical of the region. It was only several more days up, once beyond Kakkot, that it seemed less hard work. Terang and Mukot (Mukkutgaon) villages were a delight. From remote Mukot we were leaving villages behind and with the porters loaded up with extra supplies we headed out. A sat phone message from Richard predicted snow and with ugly clouds coming from the wrong direction, I checked for exact info from Esther in Singapore. The forecast was over a metre of snow at Dhaulagiri BC and we were right behind the huge Dhaulagiri II. With that we packed up immediately and headed down. Lhakpa and Mingma, out exploring further up the valley for our next camp returned to two packed loads only and "down" scribbled on a rock, a bit of a surprise for them.

And it snowed, turning to rain and wind later. Andy's tent blew away as the pegs didn't hold in the mud, and his kitbag was lighter than any previously (very porter-friendly!) but luckily although a few terraces away, no harm done, indeed everything still dry. Although the snow cleared quickly on the sun-facing slopes above us, we were dubious about shaded slopes, and were not equipped with mountaineering boots. While we could handle patches of snow, breaking trail in deep snow and camping on snow for days were beyond us. So instead of heading down on the trail we had just come up, we continued to Chharka hoping-thinking that the sunny sides of the valleys the high trail is on would clear quickly, and expecting that the snow would be lighter up there in the Dolpo rain shadow, plus in the days it would take to trek up, somebody would surely punch a trail through and open the gates.

Ha. That didn't happen. The snow was deep and the first local attempt didn't get far, neither was there much optimism and with the knowledge that the trekking group a day ahead of us at Mukot had died we rethought options (it turned out the crew died, perhaps not the trekkers?). At least Kim and her team turned up in Chharka and there was a friendly Tibetan-style teahouse with cheap Lhasa beer.

We now faced perhaps a week backtracking, and with even pushing it, the timeframe wasn't realistic for Alan. Andy turned white and hopped in a kitbag of the multiple trekkers being heli-evac'ed out. I had, for the first time, a slightly swollen tendon from getting my foot caught in between rocks on the trail, and while could trek fine, knew the injury wasn't going to get better until rested. So I couldn't break trail for days through snow. The porters, even though they would get paid, didn't exactly relish the 10+ days it would take them.

Although everyone said just fake an injury, Alan talked with his insurance and simply told the truth (which is my way too), and came through with an OK to save him being late for work and missing international flights. Nobody seemed interested in arranging sharing helicopters or part way hops and once the go ahead was given, despite the fact it clearly wasn't a medical emergency, suddenly Alan and Pasang were gone with minimal notice. His verdict, the snow on the passes was worse than we thought, not a hope. I am not totally sure what happened next, but almost as suddenly there was "rescue" action (strings pulled?) and we were out of there too, positive statistics luckily; thanks friends!

Mustang Peaks and Passes

Newly opened peaks (June 2014) dot the area we had already planned to explore. Come join for wonderful trekking and some peak bagging on straightforward peaks.

We start with the striking colours, textures and panoramas of Upper Mustang; then the remarkable ancient gompas in the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang; then cross high passes through a remote, forgotten corner of kiang and wolves and those 6000m peaks, and avoid the peak season crowds. This is Nepal adventure trekking at its very best!

25 Sept-25 Oct, 31 days — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness -- US$3980

With several people pulling out, we changed plans to the trek above...

+ *Exploring the Great Divide

A glorious wilderness trek exploring from famed Tsomoriri across the lower Zanskar range and Himalayan range, over known and unknown passes, and we will find that elusive peak - and kiang, wolves, foxes and more.

24 Aug-19 Sept, 27 days — Leh to Leh (Leh-Manali option) — expedition style — +Jamie McGuinness — US$2980
Short: 24 Aug-13 Sept, 21 days — US$2680 — full
Team: +Len Glassner***, +Demet** & +Luca*, +David K*****, +Tod B, +Jussi & +Helena, +Arabella S****
Crew: +Lobsang, Phuntsok, Ram Lal, Yamphel, Nawang, Sonam, Roshan, Bridge Lal and Beli Ram and 23 horses

Again, what a trek and will live on in great memories for a long time. Satisfying 100% peak success, and personal best altitudes for all the team (except Arabella) and some serious exploratory adventure. We did get to that elusive peak and explored the particularly wild end of the Zanskar range, utterly huge, high valleys; only a single night lower than 4500m on the whole trek!

It is definitely an area with secrets and little water - knowing the springs is critical (only one 6pm trek). Leaving that vast system behind, we successfully crossed the Pangpo La (another group failed this year, and that is probably the sum total that tried), and what an incredible route, with several spots looking less than likely but gloriously photogenic. My personal aim was to find another way over what is written as the Great Himalayan range, but in reality is an in between range, perhaps best called the transition Himalaya. In the event we found several routes, a forgotten pass (5252m) and another disused pass to the high plateau with a rough route to the Baralacha La (Paralatse La) region - and those peaks to the east - they were the real Himalaya. Jussi and Helena were so taken, they continued to Chandra Tal.

With the knowledge gained, we now know we have two more possible routes across that transition Himalaya, which we will explore next year or two, so probably "CROSSING the Great Divide" rather than "Exploring the Great Divide". At a guess I would think one of those will be the best trekking route across the region to link the Tso Moriri-Mentoks area with Spiti and the Great Himalayan Range. Let's see!

In part it was such a delightful trek because of the company - thank you everyone for joining - and also because of the star crew. Lobsang kept everything running smoothly (and those comfortable outdoor chairs) while Phuntsok and Yamphel turned out delicious meal after delicious, nutritious meal. Ram Lal and the other horsemen were utterly professional, never losing mules-ponies (if you have trekked in Ladakh you will realize how rare that is) and taking their (lightly loaded) animals on some rather rough trails near the end. All in all, a wonderful Ladakh season.

Most people made a photo album of the trip, you are spoilt for choice:

Jamie's 2014 Great Divide Flickr album

David Koelle's Flickr pix, including his bike trip afterwards

Luca's Flickr album, including compelling wide shots

Tod's Flickr album snapshots

Len's Smugmug album Len didn't seem to take a lot of shots, but he really nails the vast wilderness

Jussi's album - proving what a good photographer he is

Back from holidays I was 2kg heavier but 2,2% leaner! great job of the chefs! and allowed me to have a great time in my first trail run..34km with 1400m of positive elevation gain during the track..easy after our trek in India!
Miss the mountains and the good time.

- Luca

Ladakh & Zanskar Traverse: The Wild Route

From northern Ladakh to Zanskar via the fantastic river canyons, high passes and remote villages of the Zangla gorges, we camp at remote Shade village, marvel at cliff-side Phuktal monastery and exit along the spectacular Phirtse La route. Real adventure, real trekking & spectacular scenery!

11 Aug-7 Sept, 28 days --Leh to Leh — expedition-style — Kim & Lhakpa--US$3880
Team: Elizabeth**, Lana***, Alexandra**, Anne** & Hop**, Rita**, Kathy & David, Tom B
Crew: Lhakpa, Junar, Suresh, Yam, Sampel, Sherap, Haridhel & Karma

+ Mentok II (Lungser Kangri 6666m)

For the not so superstitious, climb Ladakh's highest easily accessible peak. We have the best Lungser Kangri itinerary, glorious trekking on a route that makes sense, a balance of sound acclimatization, plus a confidence-building warm up 6000m peak. Join us!

 1-22 Aug, 22 days — Leh to Leh — expedition style — ++++Jamie McGuinness — US$3480
Team: +++Veronica R, +++Ranjan***, +Denio**** & Raquel****, +++Hanna and +++H
Crew: +Lobsang, Phuntsok, Ram Lal, Yamphel, Nawang, Roshan, Bridge Lal and 17 horses

With the Indian army closing Lungser Kangri, we adapted our itinerary and went exploring in the near vicinity, having an absolutely amazing trek. Our first camp had a vulture chick above us, young Tibetan Argali sheep, and the next day close encounters with a kiang and carefree river crossings. Each day was a delight, and the view from the peak by our first pass was glorious, a satisfying walking to the top, even if the descent was longer than expected. It was familiar territory for Ranjan, who came last year also, but amazingly we didn't actually cross or repeat our route, so it was still fresh country. Sadly an unusual (viral?) infection took out Raquel so they returned early, logistically smoothly.

Continuing, we can say categorically the Olizane Swiss map is wrong, the main "Lanyar La" pass is a valley over. The 6000m "hill" beside was also particularly satisfying as was watching real Changtang cowboys herding yak a day later, and we had some fine curd from the nomads (whose existence is slowly dying out). Re predators, Veronica with Lobsang saw a wolf, and we all saw plenty of wolf sign, and Jamie saw a fox. After a quick 6000m scout, our Mentok II route looked good but a morning snow dusting meant quieter adventures. The next day though we summitted after a surprisingly long climb (just where is that summit?!) and we descended to a new camp in the next valley, an area without real trails, which is rather game but worked. To move camps in an unknown valley in a new area, with a whole caravan, while we are climbing takes a good crew...

Moving cross country to save descending Jamie was intrigued by the highest regularly used pass in the region, at 5960m, which is not marked on any map, although is crossed by the local nomads with sheep, yaks and horses and would save us a couple of longer days trekking. Unsurprisingly it proved rough, as we were warned, however it was not the brief snow nor the rocky patches that upset the horses, but perhaps some poisonous plants the evening before or the altitude (athough that is difficult to believe after 2x 5850m passes already, and many very high camps) and very sadly one previously strong and healthy horse went into convulsions and died, Jamie stroking his neck (and a first on our treks).

In summary our concentrated peaks and passes exploring was productive and the scenery stunning; however it was the team that really made the trek so special. We were entertained by a hilariously unashamed bodily functions expert; the shock from another; a fount of stories balanced by the quieter one, both geeks; and our perfect gentleman and lady who didn't stay long enough. We run special treks, and this was really very special - thanks to all for an incredible experience. And is there a better trek crew in the land? I think not.

See Jamie's Mentok II Flickr album

Nomads & Salt Lakes of the Changthang

Following ancient salt trading routes we trek through a spectacular region of high lakes and rare wild life and birds, fording sparkling rivers and camping with Tibetan and Ladakhi nomads. From turquoise Tsomoriri Lake we journey to Tso Kar Lake, crossing remote passes to reach far-flung Himalayan villages. We end with two idyllic days at Pangong Lake.

12 July-6 Aug, 26 days--Leh to Leh — expedition-style --Kim & Lhakpa--US$3680
Team: Anita & Dietmar, Joyce & Vicki
Crew: Lhakpa, Junar, Suresh, Yam, Sampel, Sherap, Haridhel & Karma

+Kang Yatse II 6175m with Markha

The classic Markha trek and a neat 6000m climb with proper acclimatization, and a satisfying trek exit, especially suitable as a Ladakh trek and trekking peak introduction.

11-26 July, 16 days-- Leh to Leh — expedition style — +Jamie McGuinness — US$1980
Team: +Esther Tan****, Clint W** and Ethan L
Crew: Phuntsok, Gyalson, Ram Lal and Roshan and 13 horses

A warm start turned into a wet and even snowy middle section and unable to test ourselves on an easy peak first, we went direct for Kang Yatze II on our last possible day. With Ethan and Clint sensibly stopping on the snowline, it was up to Esther and myself to salvage some team glory. Thank goodness we had the full gear as even in near perfect snow conditions we needed the rope and some ice screws for a 100+m section was steep enough that we witnessed the four Austrians with three guides on the same rope sliding alarmingly in slow motion, catching themselves with ice axe self-arrests; not a snow bar or ice screw among them. Surprisingly to us, we also put a leg into three or four crevasses on the way back in the lower section. I am guessing these crevasses are well bridged and don't show when the snow surface is hard. We certainly didn't see them on the way up.

This was my first success on Kang Yatze II but sadly in reality it is a sham "peak", a pimple on the ridge of Kang Yatze I; not a real peak at all (even if the view from the bump is satisfying), and with some surprisingly awkward angles too, so I can't recommend it as a "trekking" peak. Kang Yatze I is most definitely a worthy peak - worthy of true alpinists that is, not standard commercial groups.

Luckily our Zalung Karpo La to Dadgo exit was a real delight (those wildflowers!) and it is also certainly an area worthy of additional exploration; I spied a few peaks that we should follow up on too, peaks that should be more suitable as trekking peaks...

Zanskar Traverse

Across Zanskar has always been the classic trek; we avoid the new roads with two adventurous variations that few dare for mesmerizing views, adventurous canyons, stunning wild camping and pretty villages. Its the updated classic and still one of the very best treks there is.

15 June-8 July, 24 days — Leh to Leh (Manali-Leh option) — expedition style — Jamie McGuinness — US$2680
Team: Len Glassner**
Crew: Phuntsok, Ram Lal and Roshan and 13 (!) horses

Luckily Len was fine with being on his own, as the several other people booking at the last minute couldn't find good value flights. He enjoyed it so much he will be back for another couple of treks this season...

This really is amazing trek, as everyone who has traversed on a special route agrees.

See Len's Smugmug photos of the trip, lots of landscapes and flowers...

Kharta Valley & Everest Kangshung Face trek - Tibet

Our wonderful alternative to a closed Kailash; contact for details.

A feast of Himalayan snow peaks and sublime Tibetan panoramas, peppered with Tibetans and their yaks, flowering high-altitude pastures, glaciers tumbling down from 8000+ meters and traditional Tibetan villages.

28 May-27 Jun, 31 days — expedition style — Kim & Lhakpa
Team: Roz**** & Richard, Rosie** & Mark**, Lyanne, Paul K*****, Leslie*** & Sam R
Crew: Lhakpa, Junar, Suresh, Yam, Tashi (Tibet) & 4 yakmen/women

Nar Phu, Sky Caves & the Last Nomads of Mustang - Nepal

A wild trek to Mustang from the fortified village of Nar Phu. The Tibetan Buddhist kingdom of Mustang is home to the last Tibetan nomads of Nepal, a land of walled cities, fortresses, traditional villages, sculpted canyons, Neolithic caves, fossils, and Himalayan peaks soaring above the Kali Gandaki River gorge.

20 Apr-19 May, 30 days — expedition style — Kim & Lhakpa — US$4680
Team: Anne** & Stan**, Roz**, Toni** & Pirapar
Crew: Lhakpa, Junar, Suresh, Yam, Maila, Chittra, Pasang & porters