Inspiration and memories

Relax with some Trans-Himalayan inspiration. Jamie's carefully selected photos of most previous treks are organized into Flickr collections by region/topic and alternatively simply by albums, more in the works too. Lose yourself!

All Flickr Albums — region/topic collections

Kanchenjunga North-South

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal.

20 Oct-12 Nov, 24 days — lodges — Bire Tamang — USD2480/2780
Members: Barbara and Harald*

With perfect weather and Bire as guide, here is what Barbara wrote:

STAFF: Bire was the best guide we ever had. He planned the days according to circumstances and our capacities and wishes. He never rushed and, if the path was clear and safe, let us walk in front to choose the speed and enjoy the privacy. He accompanied us on extra walks and did not let us feel, it was extra work for him. We always followed his friendly advice (wear a hat, if it starts to get cold to avoid headache, no more showers further up with cold water after sunset… ). There was not a single thing he could have done better. We could understand his English well and he ours. We always felt absolutely safe. And on top he is a very friendly, warmhearted humorful person.

And we also liked the friendly porter, Tess. As it was our first trip to Nepal, we had too much stuff, but he never complained. He was very attentive. When we were looking around for something (my husband, gloves, chili sauce on the table, whatever) he almost always guessed, what it was and helped.

Office in Katmandu: well organized and reliable.

THE TRIP was absolutely marvellous. Without relevant technical difficulties (some landslides and rockfall areas, a bit slippery on the last day, but Bire was always there to help), beautiful landscape and mountains also apart from Kanchenjunga. We enjoyed every single day. The treks going up were sometimes just half day for reasons of height acclimatisation, but except for Amjilosa there were always good options for walks in the afternoon. And as a result of the conservative schedule, we did not have any problems with the height, not even headache.

LODGES: A small compartment with two beds and sometimes a shelf. Dining rooms were always nice and heated in Ghunsa and further up. In Lhonak and Ramche toilets were frozen, I could not use them. In Ramche we had mice in the room and they stole a pair of woolen socks, but we did not mind, the owners of the lodge were extremely hospitable and it was our fault to leave a plastic bag with the packaging of protein bars in the room.

FOOD: Food was much better than expected, especially in Phale – I watched the preparation of [delicious] momos in Ghunsa, yak steak in Kangpachen and the best sherpa stew in Selele. They often had only few ingredients, but it was solidly cooked and tasty. And Bire always had a nice desert on top for us, often even fresh fruit.

ALL IN ALL: We will be back soon...

- Barbara

Middle Dolpo *exploratory

We trek the Schaller Trail, a unique, pioneering route named after the noted naturalist who trekked with author of The Snow Leopard, Peter Matthiessen. Our exploratory middle Dolpo route avoids the new high country roads and finishes with the Kagmara La, only repeating a day of our previous Dolpo treks!

10 Oct-10 Nov, 32 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness — USD4880 — full
Members: Mike Farris***, Roger Nix*******, Kees Terhell******, Martin Randell, Greg Danforth***, Natasha D**, Peter M, Jim R**** & Fran*** (and Esther)
Crew: Bali Lopchan, Aiteram, Karma, Keshav, Nawang, Dawa (cook), Sonam, Gelbu, Wangchuk and Pemba
Horsemen: Sandesh, Rajesh and Subash with 15 mules

A many starred group of mostly previous trekkers ... Continuing with the perfect weather theme, we barely saw even a single cloud. However prior, a severe tropical storm (see below) had hammered the region with near record amounts of snow and so all the mountain passes were blanketed. Could we break trail to cross them?

Alas, no. The aftermath was broken roads, trails and bridges, and Bali + crew did a sterling job even getting all our gear through to meet us in Dunai. By comparison, we had an almost effortless couple of flights in. However, it was here that Jamie was struck down by dengue, possibly picked up at Besi Sahar at the end of the below trek, or possibly in Kathmandu. I (Jamie) don't recommend trekking with dengue, or indeed contracting it. Nepal has a real epidemic and we will take more precautions next year.

We began our planned route up to Dho-Tarap, hoping against hope that we might still be able to cross the one crucial pass. But could we even get to the villages? There was a broken bridge that had turned around some trekkers while there was rumour it was being fixed. We arrived to find a repair team in action who let us cross a couple of temporary planks and our crew energetically passed all the luggage across while the mules and mule drivers took a "can do" attitude and forced the mules to swim the fast flowing river, despite the ford being less than ideal. I'm relieved to report they all made it. 

From the villages of Dho and Tarap, we made a base camp to see if we could cross to trek the Schaller Trail but we could not even break trail to the top of the crucial pass. So, we tried our best and were satisfied that we must backtrack. So we did, back to Dunai staying at different camps, then journeyed to up, taking the scenic route eventually to Phoksundo.

The highlight has to be the side valley up the Phuphu Khola towards Shey Shikar. While Jamie attempted to break trail solo over the Kagmara La, the team explored the lakes here. Alas, the snow was far too deep and treacherous to cross teh Kagmara La so we backtracked back to Juphal. At least our flight out was smooth.

While the major storm and snowfall just prior to the trek start was the issue, I still regret that we were unable to poke around the areas we had planned as there are some great alternative trekking routes still to explore.

Upper Mustang Magic

With colourful crops in the fields, ancient gompas and canyons of beauty, we partly jeep, mostly trek the best trails to Lo Manthang then take an adventurous, appreciative trekking route out on that most scenic of trails.

We finish with a jaunt over the Thorung La...

14 Sept-7 Oct, 24 days — jeep & lodge trek — Jamie McGuinness — USD3880
Members: Jim Twiss***, Bruce Utsey****, Johnny Emberson & Tai Federico
Crew: Gelu Sherpa (guide), Bali Lopchan (assistant guide), Mingmar, Nima and Lakpa

What an entertaining trek! Starting in the monsoon means the Pokhara-Jomsom flight is often cancelled, and it was. However, the road journey only took a day compared to our 2019 epic two days ...

Our logistics choices were good. Staying in the lodges was convenient, and in the main places, they are well set up. Off the main route they are more basic but still serviceable (and still preferable to using tents). Using jeeps on a few sections of road was also convenient and logical, and we were appreciative of the walking trails where there are no roads. The porters along with us had very little work for much of the trek, then were rather heavily loaded for the couple of sections where we really needed them. This was mostly a function of carrying some additional sleep out camping gear though, not usual on most Mustang treks.

There were so many highlights, Upper Mustang really is one of the best treks on the planet, but perhaps our most special section was an overnight backpack to sleep in the abandoned Khampa guerilla headquarters of Makar.

The last section of this trek was over the Thorung La "backwards" from Muktinath-Ranipauwa to Manang. We aced the pass, surviving the cold wind, and ended up trekking to Ledar rather than staying at chaotic Thorung Phedi. It was at Ledar that we said goodbye to Jim and Bruce who met their climbing guides for a Chulu West expedition.

The rest of us hightailed our way to Manang and after a strenuous day trip Khicho (lake), then left a day early as bad weather was predicted. Even before the storm, the drive to Dharapani was heinous requiring plenty of 4WD low gear. At Besi Sahar, we waited out the rain and ducked back to Kathmandu in a brief respite.

Jim and Bruce were not so lucky though and rain plus snow destroyed their chance of even stepping foot on the mountain and their exit was rather more harrowing than ours, the road was partially destroyed and so they trekked out in the rain. The guides were an additional complication. Pema (Da'Gelje cook's brother) was fantastic (and Jim has adventured with him again) however Lhakpa (a relative of Namgyal's) was demotivated with the lack of climbing and got blind drunk for days (in what was once a relatively frequent occurance but now is rare). He no longer works in the trekking industry.

After such a good run with the weather in September, this October sting in the tail storm was truely nasty and while I missed it, Kim (ex-business partner) was at Phoksundo Lake and were stuck there with continuous rain for no less than a worrying week.

Lastly, a big thank you to some of the most entertaining trekkers ever, Tai and Johnny, and along with Jim and Bruce it was a really appreciative team. Gelu was a great guide, so good that I hope he can lead all our Upper Mustang treks.

Ladakh Peaks & Passes *private

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb several 6000+m peaks with our unique wilderness exit. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

28 Aug-16 Sept, 20 days — caravan style
Members: Mark** & Edita Horrell**
Crew: (the incredible) Santosh Karki, Tukten and Imran

Arranged through Zanskar Trek, this was Mark and Edita's first overseas holiday after the covid lockdowns. Read about Mark's experience on his own popular blog:

markhorrell.com/blog/2022/markha-valley-trek-a-perfect-reintroduction-to-trekking-in-ladakh

markhorrell.com/blog/2022/dzo-jongo-east-a-6000m-peak-so-easy-you-can-just-walk-up-it

markhorrell.com/blog/2022/dzo-jongo-west-the-worlds-shortest-6000m-peak-summit-day/

https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2022/wham-bam-langtang-chang-four-days-of-trekking-joy/

2022 Zanskar GHT

Traversing Zanskar through to Spiti, this is indeed a Great Himalaya Trail, and our unique route is a medley of striking landscapes. Mesmerizing panoramas, remote villages, famous Phuktal Monastery and sublime big sky wilderness. Join us!

6 Aug-10 Sept, 36 days — Leh to Leh/Delhi — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — USD3980
Members: Sandi B*, Jim Twiss**, Mike Farris**, Stan Adam, Kelvin Chen* (and Esther)
Crew: Lobsang, Stanzin Kunga, Chanden (cook)
Horsemen: Ram Lal & Som Lal (the kid) and 11 horses-mules, Pemba and 9 horses

A GHT trekker prompted me to look into this traverse of the Zanskar Range, and so off we went. The opening trails were fairly tough so we adapted our route but it was also particularly satisfying and deliciously scenic too. I'll open with a few choice tongue-in-cheek quotes.

"I trekked with Jamie through Zanskar and didn't die" said Mike after another high consequence "technical dirt" scree traverse. This is the second Zanskar trek he has survived; good going!

"I might try something easy after this like Mt Everest"

(and there is a story there too, if you meet Mike in person) ...

"Merciless, relentless, dangerous, brutal, savage, ferocious"
- Jim's descriptive word salad.

The jaw-dropping canyons started early, the last few kilometres of the drive to Kanji are through the most spectacular gorge and next time we must walk the best section. Although we acclimatized soundly prior, opening with the Kanji La is brutal, a long day on a rocky and rough trail but spectacular and looking over to the Great Himalayan Range. The day after, we crossed our second 5000m pass, also rough and relatively long. The remote village of Dibling was a highlight and we discussed some possible future (backpacking) exploration options too.

Then, as we began a dodgy, remote section of trail, we found out Sandi had covid, probably the reason she had been struggling. Rather than attempt a less than sure heli evac, she elected to continue to the nearest road, still a couple of narrow trail days away. Sandi is one hardy lady to have trekked this particularly tough first section with covid. From Padum, she returned to recover in Leh.

Our next section was dependent on low rivers however the dry winter and spring meant these canyons and the multiple river crossings were more straightforward than expected (while there was much less grass for the horses). I do love this region, and Shade village is always a highlight. While there is an alternative more straightline route, it is hard to skip Phuktal (Phuktar) Gompa, and the bonus is we could then visit Kargyak, Kunga's home, and see the changes to what was the first village on so many of our treks a decade before.

With local advice, we crossed the Tserichen La (Surichun La) rather than the more usual Phirtse La, and indeed it is slightly shorter and very scenic.

And the adapted route? We had hoped to finish with the Parang La however that was too far away given that we didn't want to further exhaust ourselves. So, from Sarchu we decided on a little exploration up a valley that I thought would link up. But was it possible for the horses? A shepherd said maybe, although he had not been to the top of the valley. Some Zanksari horsemen said no. Actually, it was great trekking and no problem for the horses after some excellent route-finding by Ram Lal. This lead over to an area we already know. I had forgotten what a grind it is down the valley with limited views until close to Chandra Tal. However, approaching, suddenly it was all worth it.

Mike made a GPS track of the trek for Google Maps. We walked around 325km /200 miles and ascended 16,300m, and the same descend, which is close to twice the height of Everest! *However, I found an error that roughly doubled Mike's track for another area, and so I am now dubious about the statistic. I have yet to research though...

The one issue with finishing to the south like this is the long drive out, there is no airport town nearby. We drove over two days back to Leh, and I am pleased to note there has been so much simple development along the roads with cash cropping. These regions seem noticeably more properous than years ago.

Check out my two Flickr albums 2022 Zanskar GHT and the 2022 Zanskar GHT part II.

Ladakh Skypacking - Tso High & Wild

Trails less trekked. Backpacking is carrying all your own gear and camping out in the most amazing wilderness but our twist is luxury resupplies by Lobsang. Refuel on his Asian fusion cooking and swap dirty for clean, far more satisfying and rewarding. Rough it and treat yourself!

mid-July-6 Aug — Leh to Leh — backpacking — Jamie McGuinness

Unusually, this trip didn't work out, ie didn't run. For various good reasons the trekkers couldn't take holidays at the last minute. Not to worry, I planned on a personal trek to spot snow leopards and other wildlife but Esther had other ideas. Instead, we drove Iceland's ring road which was a fantastically scenic road trip!

Markha & Dzo Jongo Ri 6218m *private

With sound acclimatization, we experience the classic Markha Valley trek and climb a 6000+m peak. A wonderfully balanced adventure!

20 June-4 July 15 days — Leh to Leh — caravan style — +Jamie & +Esther
Members: +Nick B**, Charlie B, +Sophie B & +Jan M
Crew: Lobsang in Leh; Phuntsok Dorjee (cook), +Tenzin Dorjee, +Stanzin Kunga
Horsemen: Ram Lal & Som Lal (the kid) and 11 horses-mules
Summit: 2 July 2022

This was our first trek after the covid lockdown years.

We had a fantastic trek in Ladakh with Jamie and Esther. Jamie’s meticulous planning meant that everything went smoothly and Esther’s delight in spotting wildlife, with binoculars always at the ready, meant we saw loads. The wonderful team provided delicious hearty meals, great company and support. Spectacular scenery, quality outdoor living, and a 6,250m peak to boot. We would thoroughly recommend!!

Nick Badman, private Markha & Dzo Jongo 2022

Perfect weather! Two weeks of warmth and sun made for fun, easy trekking and climbing. The 4-wheel-drive road to Markha has made inroads but in truth doesn't impact the trek much as is is only little-improved over the previous tractor track. The first couple of days has always been slightly monotonous but with bursts of fields and hamlets but is a gentle intro to build trekking legs. We loved exploring the high country.

As well as great trekking, some of us were successful on Dzo Jongo Ri East too. Conditions were great and we walked up most of the way, only putting on plastic mountaineering boots and crampons near the summit. However, despite the care we took with acclimatization Charlie still struggled, which was a shame.

And the wildlife tally? First time to Ladakh, Som, the kid horseman, saw a snow leopard while collecting the horses on our wildlife detour. Charlie fleetingly saw what was probably a wolf from our Nyimaling camp, and a fox cheekily checked out our base camp, which the crew saw but we didn't. All in all, it was a successful post-covid start!

Cancelled Tsum & Manaslu Wild

Tsum is a sacred beyul, a "hidden valley of happiness" and simply wonderful trekking. We'll explore to the head of the valley then, after more adventurous trails, continue around the scenic Manaslu circuit taking a few special detours.

30 Sept-3 Nov, 35 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness — US$3480?
30 Sept-16 Nov, 48 days with Annapurna extension

Cancelled Kanchenjunga North-South

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal. We can arrange both private trips and a group trek - what suits you?

Mid Oct- early Nov, 24 days — lodges — Bire Tamang — US$2780

Cancelled Zanskar Canyons

Join our unique Zanskar affair for mesmerizing views, adventurous canyons, stunning wild camping and pretty villages. Rugged, colourful rock contrasts with the azure rivers and green village oases, ancient monasteries cling to rock faces and Buddhist chortens dot the immense landscape on a trek where each and every day is scenically surprisingly different.

30 Aug-26 Sept, 28 days — Leh to Leh — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — US$3480

Cancelled Ladakh Skypacking - Tso High & Wild

Trails less trekked. Backpacking is trekking, carrying all your own gear and camping out in the most amazing wilderness camps but our twist is luxury resupplies by Lobsang. Refuel on his Asian fusion cooking and swap dirty for clean, far more satisfying and rewarding. Treat yourself!

5-31 July, 27 days — Leh to Leh — backpacking — Jamie McGuinness

Cancelled 2020 Zanskar Canyons

Join our unique end of season Zanskar affair for mesmerizing views, adventurous canyons, stunning wild camping and pretty villages. Rugged, colourful rock contrasts with the azure rivers and green village oases, ancient monasteries cling to rock faces and Buddhist chortens dot the immense landscape on a trek where each and every day is scenically surprisingly different.

30 Aug-26 Sept, 28 days — Leh to Leh — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — US$3480
Chandra Tal extension: 30 Aug-3 Oct, 35 days — Leh to Manali — US$3980

Cancelled Middle Dolpo *exploratory

We trek the Schaller Trail, a unique, pioneering route named after the noted naturalist who trekked with author of The Snow Leopard, Peter Matthiessen. Our exploratory middle Dolpo route avoids the new high country roads and finishes with the Kagmara La, only repeating a day of our previous Dolpo treks!

9 Oct-8 Nov, 31 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness

Custom Dolpo

Our flexibility ... the initial Kanchenjunga plan suddenly couldn't work for Christian and Jo so we arranged a unique Dolpo trek to suit. Thank you to Norbu (the guide) plus trek team and last but definitely not least, Jo & Christian.

I (Jamie) didn't lead the trip but did meet them part way through.

Jo, Norbu, Jamie and Christian

Kanchenjunga North-South *private

Unspoilt and cultural, the Kanchenjunga region offers some of the best trekking in Nepal.

2-26 Nov, 25 days — lodges — Bire Tamang — US$2780
Team: Mike Timpson**, Mike C, Randy D and Stu B
Crew: Bire Tamang and four porters

The trek was GREAT! Bire and the team of porters were outstanding. I would/will trek with Bire again! ...

The lodges along the route were pretty decent (some much better than others - Gyabala, Ghunsa, Kambachen), and there are more being built/improved. It's still necessary to carry air mattresses/Thermarests as not all the beds had reasonable mattresses - some were like sleeping on concrete.

The food was pretty repetitive (as advertised), but there was plenty of it, and no one had any food-related health issues on trek. Bire and Tez kept an eye on the kitchens and sometimes helped with cooking when a lodge owner/cook was overwhelmed by the number of trekkers ordering dinner.

We had a bit of excitement at Sellele. Sometime in the night, a snow leopard attacked the yak herd that was up in the high pastures east of the lodge site. Apparently the leopard got a small yak, and also tore up an adult. That poor adult yak landed outside our lodge rooms at 01:30 clanging it's bell most of the rest of the night. We of course were cursing the yak for being so loud, until morning when Bire told us about the attack, and we could see the copious amounts of blood on the ground outside the lodge. We don't know if the adult survived its wounds.

...

The trek from Ghunsa to Cheram was probably the prettiest part of the trek. I added prayer flags at each of the pass crossings. The lodge we stayed in at Sellele was OK (rooms were a bit small), but the new dining room was very nice, and the lodge owner knows how to run a wood/dung stove - NO smoke! There is a new lodge being constructed about 15 minutes past the older one. We spoke with some trekkers who stayed there and they said it's still a work in progress, but should be a good option when actually complete. The place we stayed was totally adequate, but the rooms could be improved a bit (a bit more room and better insulation). Very photogenic location (see sunset with prayer flags and night shot with prayer flags).

...

- Mike Timpson, Kanchenjunga North-South 2019

Upper Mustang-Dolpo Wild

Epic, powerful beauty on a route few dare, we link Nepal's two trekking Shangri-las over breathless mountain passes and along meandering alpine valleys for a visual feast of gorgeous trans-Himalayan panoramas and some trademark mountaineering exploration. This is a journey through flat-roofed villages and sacred monasteries including Shyamling and Bhijer, Shey and the enchanting, oh-so-turquoise Phoksundo.

15 Sept-26 Oct, 42 days — camping — Jamie McGuinness — US$5680 — full
Team: +Bruce Utsey***, +Holly and +Brad M, +David Wright**, Mary W, Paul K***** and +Jim Twiss*
Crew: Bal Bahadur Lopchan, Aiteram, Sanjay Tamang, Dawa (Da Gelje; cook), Tashi, Ang (Phura) Kami, Pasang and Dorje
Horsemen: Bhim Bahadur Roka, Amar Bahadur Magar and Raju Rana with 2 horses and 14 incredible mules

With half a dozen deeply appreciative trekkers, we savoured Upper Mustang and Upper Dolpo spending time chatting with locals and taking in the endless vistas.

Beyond a simply incredible experience, this was a memorable farewell to Upper Dolpo's Panzang Valley as we knew it as motorbike and tractor roads are changing the region forever. The locals will certainly appreciate cheaper supplies and more variety and the trekking impact, in truth, is fairly limited. However, the contrast between walking motobike roads and some of the smaller trails was striking, and small rougher trails are much more appealing, if slower trekking.

With Lo Manthang's no climbing before the buckwheat harvest edict now nullified in Upper Mustang, we started almost two weeks earlier and so the trek was far warmer and more comfortable than previous journeys and we pitied all the late October into November trekkers heading into very cold Upper Dolpo. When debating which trek is the best in Nepal, Upper Mustang must be top of the landscapes list for its stark, raw beauty, driven home by the number of photos to sort out.

A few stats from David:
approx distance walked including group day trips: 425km
approx ascent (vertical gain, and descent is the same +300m): 17,000m !
days above 3650m/12,000ft: 31 days

Paul Krijnen has a beautifully composed set of photos on Flickr

Jamie has two albums covering the trek on Flickr:

2019 Upper Mustang 1

2019 Mustang to Dolpo 2

Markha & Dzo Jongo Ri 6218m *private

Elaine and friend's private group.

18-31 Aug, 14 days — Leh to Leh — +Jamie McGuinness — full
Team: Elaine & Antonia, +Doug & Lavendar, Denvy, +Carina, +Maytinee, PY and Esther
Crew: Lobsang (cook and guide), +Stanzin Kungha, Stanzin Chombel, Pema with 8 horses; Ram Lal and Ajay with 10 horses-mules

A trek with sparkling, outsized personalities, this was a high energy team and a more intense experience packed into this shorter timeframe than our usual relaxed longer journeys. The August warmth was a delight (eating dinner outside!), even though the trek was cooler than in previous years. Snow lingered on Dzo Jongo Ri but didn't cause problems. Rather, everyone acclimatizes at a different pace and on a tight itinerary, that is the trade off.

New on this trip, we made two fantastic detours from the main Markha trek route proving it is still possible to get of the beaten track even on Ladakh's most popular trail (but still not busy compared with Nepal). These detours really enhanced the trek and we didn't meet a soul on either. The first was a wildlife delight, blue sheep coming up to graze near our camp while the second was oh-so scenic and added to our acclimatization with little additional effort.

When our cook couldn't get to Leh on account of the broken Manali-Leh highway, Lobsang stepped in and again proved himself as an excellent cook.

Ladakh Peaks & Passes

The Markha Valley is a classic trek yet homestay trekkers have to skip the highlights. We know and love the area so explore and scramble Dzo Jongo Ri 6218m (!), in the domain of blue sheep, which we have seen on every trip, and wolves which we have seen on some. We end with a dramatic pass which drops us into an enchanting valley with sparkling streams for a refreshing wilderness end.

7-24 July, 18 days — Leh to Leh — caravan style — +Jamie McGuinness
with Tso Kar extension: 7-26 July, 20 days
Team: +Fred M*****, +Mike Timpson*, Kat White**; Laura and +Ahmed (short itinerary) and Esther
Crew: Lobsang, Surkie (cook), Stanzin Kunga, Stanzin Chombel, Pema with 8 horses; Ram Lal and Ajay with 10 horses-mules

Oh, the joys of warm trekking and camping; eating under the open skies, that natural change from day to twilight, no phone distractions, and so sleeping early and long. The winter theme reoccurred though with the weather changing at Nyimaling with monsoon squalls throwing rain, hail, grapel and snow at us. Diaries and Scrabble came out, with hair washing executed during the sunny periods.

This really is a wildlife trek, the highlight was wolves seen from our Nyimaling camp! Yes, busy Nyimaling and not for the first time either. Marmots and pikas were less in abundance than previous years probably from the particularly harsh winter; plenty still to be seen though.

At Nyimaling it was distressing to see that every other group had at least one person with real altitude sickness, at least four groups. Skipping even one day of our itinerary has real consequences and it is surprising that agencies will arrange however, it seems it comes down to $ and time, and clients really want to compromise.

Having said that though, Kat suddenly had altitude issues and headed down to Nyimaling with Lobsang, then returned a day later, feeling better.

The snowy theme continued on our climb of Dzo Jongo Ri East where a squall peppered us briefly, giving us a snowy backdrop, but luckily the threatening weather held off for our summit. The photos are dramatic though. For Mike this was his first real 6000m summit, for Fred it was an achievement to be proud of as he nears retirement age and Ahmed's first time trekking in the Himalaya the summit was particularly satisfying.

The continuing snow building up on the passes did prevent us from trekking our special Dat finish, which was a shame, especially as that route normally features more wildlife. Instead, we has a wild canyon finish down to Chokdo/Shang Sumdo, an afternoon of river crossings to remember (adding to Fred's memories with Luke and Lobsang in 2010 when the main trail was completely washed away in the damaging floods). All in all, it was a wonderfully memorable experience.

After the trek and a day's clean up in Leh, we headed to Tso Kar for some luxe jeep camping (which is actually the same as our trekking setup). Wildlife was significantly less than in previous years, the man collecting the camping fees said that many older kiang died over the harsh winter, however we still saw a variety of birds and animals, and had a real nomad experience with friends of Tashi's up at Rajan Karu. All in all, this was a most wonderful adventure holiday.

+Dzo Jongo Ri 6218m extension

With a shorter 21 day Zanskar trek, a few people stayed on to climb Dzo Jongo Ri East in less than a week.

5 days — Leh to Leh — caravan style — +Jamie McGuinness
Team: +Greg Weston***, Phil Whitwell**** and +Esther (and Cheryl who had to cancel)
Crew: Raj, Stanzin Kungha, Sagar Sherpa, Pema with 8 horses

With a week between trips, three of the Zanskar trekkers were keen on a mountaineering extension so, acclimatized, we took the quick route up the spectacular gorge up to the Konmaru La and to base camp of Dzo Jongo Ri then broke trail through the late spring snow to the summit. This proved to be a real bonus climb and we were almost certainly the first of the season, and perhaps the first 6000'er summit of the season in Ladakh as Stok Kangri had yet to be climbed (!! deep snow) at that time.

Sadly, Raj our cook found the altitude too much at the base camp and after self-evacuating and some recovery time plus doctor's visits he still didn't feel well enough to come on the next trek. He now has small restaurant in Manali that we msut visit. His ready smile, dedication and superb cooking will be missed. He really has worked so hard for Project Himalaya over there last few years - a sincere thank you.

Zanskar Spring

Across Zanskar has always been the classic trek; we avoid the new roads with an adventurous variation that few dare for mesmerizing views, epic canyons, stunning wild camping and pretty villages. Rugged, colourful rock contrasts with the azure rivers and green village oases. Ancient monasteries cling to rock faces and Buddhist chortens dot the immense landscape. This is our updated classic and still one of the very best adventure treks there is.

9-29 June, 21 days — Leh to Leh — caravan style — Jamie McGuinness — USD2780 — full
Team: Pete C & Karen McC, Nick N & Philippa W, Greg Weston**, Phil Whitwell***, Mike P** and Esther (and Cheryl who had to cancel at the last minute)
Crew: Raj (cook), Stanzin Kunga, Sagar Sherpa, Nima; Jai Deb and Roshan Lal and 14 mules-horses; Ram Lal and Ajay with 10 mules-horses

Everything turned up to 11

- Pete C

That is 11 for the huge scale, the scenery, the trail adventures, the canyon descents, the great camp sites ... and even the meals and the crew. Everything - we were treated rather well!

With the late, heavy snow and cool weather, this could almost have been called Zanskar Winter, although it was just as scenic as always. The first challenge was the Leh-Manali highway was still not open when we arrived in Leh, so the crew less Lobsang came via Srinagar. Fewer Leh shops were open and Changspa was quiet, the newly paved sometimes one way road appreciated.

Our trek challenges were the multiple snowy pass crossings, no problem for us but very real for the horses and it was touch and go whether we might have to reroute. With the first pass, the Gotunda La, Ram Lal was not going to be stopped even after my words of caution so the crew unloaded the horses for the trickiest section and we trampled a trail for them, then they were reloaded lower down, quite an effort, but this got us over without endangering the horses. The Pangdang La in the middle of the trek also required creative thinking and and some minor trail rerouting. The locals at Shade didn't know if we could get through but said if we meet yaks on the way, they must have come from Zangla and so the crossing might be possible with horses. We did meet them and for the most challenging section followed their route. The main canyon was a memorable and photogenic as ever, I never tire of trekking through here. With the late snow we opted for the Lingshed trek end rather than what would have been a snow-blocked Bear Valley route. I wonder if we will ever traverse that valley again?

It was memorable in other ways too. Kudos to Karen who partly overcame her fear of exposed trails, which was lucky as we were the first and probably only June trekkers and the already narrow trails had been washed away in sections. Some of Raj's curries made my all time favorite list and quite simply, every meal was a delight. And that fresh, perfect watermelon x11, whaa. When can we do this again?!

+2019 Everest Expedition - Tibet

This was a private expedition for National Geographic and other several media projects.

Team: +Renan Ozturk, +Mark Synnott, Thom Pollard, Nick Kalisz, +Matt Irving, Jim Hurst and +Jamie McGuinness
Climbing sherpas: +Bal Bahadur Lopchan (Bali), Ngatemba Sherpa Taktok, +Lakpa Temba Sherpa, +Pasang Kaji Sherpa, +Lhakpa Tenji Sherpa, +Prakash Gurung Kemchay, Sanjay Tamang, Sonam Sherpa Taktok, +Kusang Sherpa ...
Crew: Da Pasang Sherpa, Bire Tamang and Da Gelje Sherpa as cooks
Summit: 30 May 2019

Summit success and storytelling!

We had rather more issues than I would have liked, however there are two outstanding documentaries out now, Lost on Everest which shows on the National Geographic channel and Sony Alpha's The Ghosts Above free on YouTube.

Check out the July 2020 National Geographic yellow border magazine for the magazine article and the internet version features another incredible interactive photo.

A huge thank you to Renan Ozturk for putting the production together and a massive thumbs up to the incredible, talented team of Mark, Thom, Nick, Matt and Jim. Also, thank you to the awesome sponsors, The North Face, National Geographic and Sony Alpha especially.

In 2021, Mark Synnott's book came out, partly an Everest skeptic's expedition tale and the other part, our additions to the fascinating Mallory and Irvine mystery.

Dharma Peak trek

I was privileged to be a fly on the wall on a Dzi Foundation management brain storming trek thru the area they work in. Listening to the front line workers and understanding their professionalism was inspiring, and I have to give a huge shout out for the organization as it lives up to the ideas of how a development organization should work. No over-the-top Landcruisers, no managers getting fat in Kathmandu. Everyone is a front line manager/worker. And it was a pleasure to really connect with Ben Ayers again on a personal level but also to see that philosophical approach hasn't been dulled by his time in Nepal. He is still curious about everything we saw.

See my 2019 Dharma Peak trek Flickr album.