Middle Dolpo *exploratory

Dho-Tarap - Schaller Trail - Phoksundo - Kagmara La

Dolpo is a dramatic landscape of nature's colours and bedrock textures, water-sculpted gorges of sheer rockfaces and translucent turquoise rapids, steep hillsides of fragrant pine and leafless birch rising to autumnal shrubs and alpine grasses crowned by soaring mountains, and all on a Himalayan scale. Meditatively blended into this are red ochre gompas with chanting incarnate lamas, wandering shepherds based from homely tents, jingling yak caravans driven by jaunty cowboys, snotty ragamuffins and their more circumspect parents living sustainably in once fortified stone villages. Our innovative trek route is an appreciative, adventurous journey off the beaten path where we explore a few geographical mysteries of the area and immerse ourselves in all that is Dolpo.

Why Middle Dolpo? The name relates to exploring an area that is not true Upper Dolpo with its expensive permit as it is just south of the administrative border but is above the normal Lower Dolpo trek routes. It is an area where few trekkers have dared and none have explored comprehensively. Second, why this trek? I simply love Dolpo, the whole experience, reinforced by our 2011, 2016, 2018 & 2019 Upper Dolpo exploratory journeys and given the choice of all of Nepal would rather explore here in Dolpo.

And the Schaller Trail? When the noted naturalist George Schaller and Peter Matheissen of "The Snow Leopard" book fame trekked out of the region they took a more circuitous route around Phoksundo in the hope of seeing more wildlife - as we hope too.

For our previous Dolpo trekkers, this route is new to you, avoiding trails we have previously trekked except for a day around Phuksundo Lake and there is a new lower trekking trail partly around the lake under construction/recently opened there too. The trek is a mix of shorter and moderately long trekking days and plenty of days for wide ranging alpine exploration.

Our journey begins with a spectacular flight along the Himalayan range to Juphal then trek (or partly drive?) to our horsemans' village, passing through the still surprisingly rustic headquarters of Dunai. The next few days to the villages of Dho-Tarap are in a rough and deep gorge that will become a road in a few years, although work has yet to start, and so another reason for this "before it's gone" trek. Then we venture off the beaten trail for our exhilarating exploration of the multiple passes that lead to Upper Dolpo and head the long way around Phoksundo Lake, including a few additional days for exploring. Only briefly back at familiar lake shore camps/on the standard route, we detour to take the traditional winter herding route over the Kagmara La to Kaigaon with some exploration of a mountain ring "Dolpo Sanctuary" and then back to Juphal for our flight out.

All in all, our trek is a unique, fabulous Dolpo camping journey with two or three bouts of trademark exploration.

Highlights

+ timeless Dolpo villages

+ Tibetan Buddhist gompas (monasteries)

+ striking turquoise Phoksundo Lake

+ stunning panoramas, big sky trekking

+ snow capped mountain views

+ peaceful, scenic wilderness camps

+ movie scenes from 'Seven Years in Tibet'

+ movie scenes from 'Himalaya'

+ many exploratory day trips

+ 'before it's gone' Tarap gorge trek

+ possible exploration sleepouts

Grading

max altitude ~5300m

max sleeping altitude ~4900m?

multiple 5000m passes

rough, challenging trails

strenuous trekking

insurance: hiking/trekking

Health

you must be covid-vaccinated

our crew are vaccinated

Covid insurance required

understand your health risks

2022 Dates

10 Oct-10 Nov, 32 days

(suggested: 9 Oct-11 Nov)

Start and end in Kathmandu, airport code KTM

Cost - US$4880

trip deposit USD1000

tent & Kathmandu hotel single supplement included

additional hotel nights: USD50

max 9 bookings

Preparation

trek gear discussion

Nepal visa

trekking intro

Leader

Jamie McGuinness

Mobile: +977 98021 49789

on trek satellite phone: +88 216 21273393

Our service includes

all airport transfers

2/3 star hotel in Kathmandu, single with breakfast

1 night Nepalgunj hotel, twinshare

domestic flights as per the itinerary

group transportation by private vehicle

entrance fees and permits as needed

Kathmandu group dinner

Expedition-style trek includes

all meals, afternoon tea and hot drinks

roomy single tent / large double for couples

horse-mule porterage

very experienced crew

our special comfy dining tent

and more unique Project Himalaya comforts

Nice touches included

fresh filtered coffee for breakfast

filtered drinking water at camp

large thin mat to protect your air mattress

Our service excludes

insurance, Nepal visa, other meals in Kathmandu

additional hotel nights due to delays

international flights, equipment rental, alcohol, bottled water and soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Tips & extra cash

allow approx $50 per day for Kathmandu meals

allow more if you are a shopaholic

we suggest 5% of the trip cost per trekker for the crew tips pool

** Our itinerary has three exploratory sections and mental flexibility is required; we may change the itinerary on local advice and conditions. **

Day 0 - 9 Oct - recommended early arrival

Arrive early to recover from long flights, shop and to sightsee.

Day 1 - Monday 10 October 2022 - arrive Kathmandu by 2pm

Arrive any time before 2pm and hand over your passport for permits. We have a 6pm briefing and dinner.

2 - fly Nepalgunj 150m

The office finishes the permits in the morning ready for an afternoon flight. Double/twin rooms only, dinner at the hotel is included.

3 - fly Juphal 2490m, drive/trek Dunai

After our early morning flight, we trek 3 hrs or drive to Dunai (or further, if can make it). If Dunai, we overnight in rough lodge.

4 - trek Lawan

Our horsemen for all our Dolpo treks live here, so a special experience.

5 - trek Laina Odar 2875m 6-7 hours

A highway to Tibet is planned through this gorge of the next three days walking, however, construction has not yet started.

6 - trek Pibuk Cave 3200m 7 hours

7 - trek Langa Camp

8 - trek Dho-Tarap 3944m 7 hours

9 - Dho-Tarap 3944m

Rest, explore and essential acclimatization.

10-16 - trek the Schaller Trail

We explore various routes and trek around Phoksundo, partly on the Schaller trail wilderness route.

17 - trek Phoksundo Khola camp

A favourite scenic camp under 6000m mountains and with tent door views of Phoksundo.

18 trek Ringmo via Phoksundo Lake

Is the new lower trail following the lake shore open? Again, tent door views of Phoksundo.

19 - trek Pungmo

We are briefly on the pretty but busier trek route then branch off to remote Pungmo village.

20 - trek She Shikar valley

Intriguingly, the Pungmo Khola is the same champagne blue as the Phuksundo Khola so let's find out why. There is a herders camp conveniently located although it could be a longer day.