Turn up and go backpacking - all the research and most preparation already taken care of!
Above: the view from 6000+m.
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What, there is no teahouse/lodge trekking like Nepal? Nope. There are a couple of good homestay trekking routes, but the main Markha Valley is packed with domestic Indian trekkers so if you want to really get out there, either take a fully supported trek (ie with kitchen and horses) or go backpacking. But backpacking solo is seriously intimidating, there are no marked trails, no trails or bridges at all in some regions yet seasonal fast-flowing rivers complicate planning; in other words, it is only for experts in the region. That is where we come in, having trekked and explored the region for more than a dozen years.
Our Skypacking treks are backpacking in Ladakh carrying your own gear, including shelter/tent and meal supplies, mostly on trails less trekked under that expansive sky. Previously, trekking caravan-style with horses and kitchen crew really made sense, and is still best on longer remote routes. However, with new roads crisscrossing the region, backpacking with recovery and resupply every three to five days becomes comfortable and fun.
Each trip is a true adventure encompassing the local Buddhist culture with a little trekking through traditional local villages however we spend the bulk of the time trekking in Ladakh's captivating alpine desert wilderness. Every trek with Jamie has an exploratory section, routes that Jamie has dreamed of. Private treks are on routes we have previously backpacked. We handle most of the preparation so that you can just turn up and enjoy.
Ladakh is simply glorious trekking and we have thoroughly explored the region and feel privileged to share this unique place with you.
The theory of UL (ultralight) fastpacking is easy to grasp and if you are interested, do check out Manav's inspiring series of YouTube videos. However, with the starting altitudes in Ladakh, you need DAYS at intermediate altitudes before heading higher, and so it makes sense for many backpackers to spend time going more slowly, covering less distance while acclimatizing, rather than waiting in Leh so as to move faster once on the trail.
But for more standard backpacking, the best option for most people, there is little info and no poster backpacker yet we traverse some of the most amazing wilderness on the planet that should be world-famous.
Basic format
Our trek itineraries are unique and so original that we don't publicly publish them just yet. Here is an overview of the basic format though. All trips start in Leh with a couple of days for acclimatization to the altitude.
If you have been training, put in your last hard training session just before you leave as you have many days ahead to recover.
Delhi airport transfer and hotel, but we can advise
equipment rental
donations, tipping and other items of a personal nature
Tips & extra cash
allow approx $150 for Leh meals
we suggest $50-100 per trekker for the local crew tips pool
(Day 0 - arrive Delhi / early Leh arrival)
Do plan your arrival time well, considering your flight to Leh, see Delhi-Leh travel.
We are happy to assist planning, and with early arrival provide transfer and
hotel booking.
Sample itinerary
This is an example 21 day itinerary with a 6000m peak.
Day 1 - meet in Leh 3480m
We meet you at Leh airport (code IXL) and now you can relax after the long flights to get here. During the day we show you around and start the preparation. We assemble at 6pm for a team briefing and then dinner together.
2 - Leh 3480m
Today and tomorrow are for sightseeing, acclimatization and further preparation. These couple of days in Leh really allow for winding down and adapting to the timezone change.
3 - Leh 3480m
By now you should be feeling better at altitude and we will take a hike up to the Peace Stupa and perhaps further. On some trips that start at a similar or lower altitude to Leh, or if people are well acclimatized already, we may drive to the trek start today and camp at the road end.
4 - leave Leh and trek
After a hearty breakfast, we drive to the trek start with some sightseeing en route, then leave the road behind and shoulder our packs, moving at a moderate pace with plenty of micro stops to our first camp, often only a couple of hours away. Our first section is only a couple of days to the next resupply so that our loads are not too heavy, and also we keep at moderate altitudes while we get fitter and more altitude-acclimatized.
5-6 - trekking
There are few flat, moderate altitude trails in Ladakh so we will cross an approx 4600m trekking pass as part of our initial warm up section, but sleeping at graduated altitudes.
7 - resupply
We meet a road and our wonderful resupply crew. We could be camping and so the crew cook a delicious big meal and perhaps break open some beers. We swap dirty for clean clothes and can swap out gear, eg shelters for tents.
We could be staying in a simple homestay (back to 1980's time travel!) when Lobsang helps with the cooking and brings fresh fruit...
8-11 - trekking
Now recovered and acclimatized, we can really get out there for 3-4 days or possibly more. We revel in remote wilderness camps, putting in decent trekking days but not overly long. With a longer section, we must carry more supplies, and I am mindful of this.
12 - resupply
We meet our crew again for a feast and clean up.
13 - rest day
A cooked breakfast - luxury! We refuel, having a rest day to aid recovery while driving.
14-19 trekking
Over a five or six day trek on some itineraries we can get 6000m high as well. Or just revel in yet another differently scenic area. Those panoramas!
20 - trek to roadhead and drive Leh
Its a morning drive back to the hotel where we can shave and scrub clean with endless hot water. Cafes and coffee shops beckon. We have a farewell dinner together.
21 onwards - jeep safari?
We can rinse and repeat but an alternative is a road trip out through Spiti, a fave of ours.
Day 21/24/28/35? - trip ends
You are free to leave or hang around longer to clean up.
Esther jumping for joy atop a pass - Jamie McGuinness
Saving data; use your phone in landscape to see the detailed itinerary and more photos.
Inspiration
Here is an album of our 2017 trek (and yes, I took my big camera but a single lens).
And in the video below is one of the trails I most want to backpack. I have dreamed about this for a decade or more but there was a trick I didn't realise. Thanks to Saravana Kumar, here hiking in winter. We were told by locals that in high water, this trail is not possible in summer, and indeed once met some trekkers who tried and they really got into trouble, nearly drowned. But now I learn that a low water trek WOULD be possible, perhaps at the end of the summer season or perhaps just in a lucky period (or go in winter, ha). This gorge must be SO spectacular!
Exploring
Perhaps surprisingly, we will do some real exploration on some of our backpacking treks, see our Previous Exploratory Treks page.