2024 Zanskar GHT

Our unique adventurous grand traverse of Zanskar to Spiti

The Great Himalaya Trail Ladakh edition! Almost surprisingly, the best, most direct GHT route has yet to be found or mapped despite some otherwise comprehensive mapping of Ladakh trekking trails. There is still a blank across that huge Changtang wilderness that we know and love and there is still one crucial pass we have yet to cross - this time!

We begin at delightful Kanji (above) then cross the formidable Kanji La and a second pass to remote but friendly Dibling village. There's an optional tough backpacking direct route to the heart of Zanskar, while the easier roundabout route with our horses and crew goes via famed Lingshed and takes the same number of days. Descending to the huge main valley of Zanskar, we resupply then head up and across delightful trails to isolated Shade village, a real favourite.

From Shade, we could trek into the wilderness however Phuktal Gompa is still such a highlight that we detour slightly, which also allows us to reach Kargyak, Kunga's home village, once a highlight of the old Zanskar trek.

Leaving villages behind, we ascend the high and rarely trekked Tserichen La (or Phirtse La) onto the crinkly plateau and cross the Leh-Manali Highway with the chance of resupply (or 35 day exit).

We traverse that sublime panoramic wilderness in the dazzling light to our "forgotten pass" that has dropped off maps yet provides a more logical and direct route from Sarchu to the formidable Parang La. We're trekking where nobody else dares and only argali, kiang, wolves and snow leopard roam.

Once over this shortcut pass, we finish with the demanding Parang La, between Changthang grazing plateau and Spiti. It is utterly stunning walking up and over a real glacier, and the rough gorge exit can really only be experienced to understand just how unlikely a route it is.

At the village of Kibber we meet our jeeps for our road trip exit. Showered, we visit the famed Ki Gompa and Kaza then drive over three or four days on the old Tibet Hindustan highway to Shimla (think Kipling) where we take the Himalayan Queen toy train and get back to Delhi in time to avoid it! (If your flight time is early in the morning).

Although a true adventure, our trekking style is surprisingly comfortable with our fully self-contained horse caravan in a rhythm untouched by the internet and the usual daily stresses. After a nourishing breakfast we trek, sometimes in broad valleys, sometimes tight canyons and over high passes, having a simple but delicious lunch and then set up camp when we find that perfect spot. Afternoon tea leads to time to relax or explore, and a tasty Asian cuisine dinner and an evening of chatting and reading then finally fitful sleep.

Ultimately, this is an adventurous trek journey of variety from northwest Zanskar to Spiti that takes in the highlights while also following the Zanskar range to where it merges with the Great Himalaya Range. Exploratory journeys like this are rare - join us!

Highlights

+ gorgeous Zanskar panoramas

+ remote traditional Zanskari villages

+ few other trekkers

+ true wilderness sections

+ sublime landscapes

+ idyllic campsites

+ lots of wildlife

+ 5700m glacier Parang La crossing

+ crossing the Great Himalaya range

+ unmatched healthy Asian trekking cuisine

Grading

max altitude 5700m

max sleeping altitude 5080m

multiple river crossings

strenuous trekking

long drive at trip end

insurance: hiking/trekking <6000m

Travel basics

get e-visa 4+ days before, ~USD50

meet in Leh - easy!

2024 details

12 Aug-28 Sept, 48 days, USD4980

Sarchu end: 12 Aug-15 Sept, 35 days, USD3980

start Leh, end Delhi (/Leh)

deposit: USD1000

tent single supplement included

max 8 bookings

Preparation

Leader

Jamie McGuinness

Leh hotel

Hotel Omasila, manager: Phuni

Changspa, Leh

tel: +91 1982 252 119, 250 207

Leh office

Stanzin Jorgays

Zanskar Trek

Fort Road, Leh

tel: +91 1982 252 153, 251 673

Our service includes

Leh airport transfer/s

hotels and guesthouses twinshare

group transportation by private vehicle

Leh sightseeing half/full day

Leh group dinner

Expedition-style trek includes

all meals, afternoon tea and hot drinks

roomy single tent / large double for couples

horse porterage

very experienced crew

comfy foam mattress

Nice touches included

filtered drinking water at camp

group first aid kit including altitude meds

Our service excludes

meals in Leh

domestic flights

Delhi airport transfer, hotel, but we can advise

insurance, India visa, international flights, equipment rental, alcohol and soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Tips & extra cash

allow approx $100 for Leh meals

we suggest 5% of the trip cost per trekker for the crew tips pool

Day 0 - optional early arrival Leh

Do plan your Delhi arrival time well, considering your morning flight to Leh tomorrow. We are happy to assist planning and, if you arrive in Leh early, we provide transfer and hotel booking.

Day 1 - Tuesday 13 Aug - arrive Leh 3480m

Look for a Project Himalaya sign and Jamie will meet you at the hotel. Take it easy and drink plenty today.

2 & 3 - Leh sightseeing 3480m

The impressive palaces, gompas and monasteries must be experienced. We have two full days, ie three nights, for altitude acclimatization. Prepare the Inner Line paperwork.

4 - drive Lamayuru 3550m via Alchi

We break the drive with a visit perhaps to Alchi, the oldest and most historic of the region and/or world heritage site Basgo. Lamayuru is also a famed gompa. This is our fourth night at around 3500m, so a sound acclimatization plan.

5 - drive Kanji 3850m

We must walk the stupendous gorge gates just before Kanji! The village is the background banner image and is most scenic and friendly, and a moderate 300m jump in altitude.

6 - trek Kanji river junction 4050m

A short trek for acclimatization purposes although there are valleys to explore (and a future route we should ask the locals about).

7 - trek Kanji La Base Camp 4345m

Another short but scenic day as we take a measured (~300m) altitude gain and set ourselves up for the big day tomorrow.

8 - trek Kanji Sumdo 4300m via Kanji La 5250m

The big day! We climb slowly and steadily over this high pass with glorious panoramas and drop down to a similar sleeping altitude as the night before.

9 - mid camp 4400m / spare

We can walk a couple of hours today, to set ourselves up for tomorrow, or we have a day in hand if we push on.

10 - trek First Camp 4550m via Pitung La 5020m

We camp at the first good camp over the pass however this is still a long day.

11 - trek Dibling 3850m

It is only a couple of hours walk down valley so we have a semi-rest day in this remote, traditional village of Zanskar.

12 - trek Lingshed Sumdo

This is another short day on account of rising afternoon rivers. We now have a route choice. The horses and main crew will go via Lingshed but there is the opportunity to backpack down the wild gorge for a couple of days and meet up with the team in Zingchen.

13 - trek Chakskang/Sumdo 4270m via Barmi La 4640m

Most of the team will take the usual route so we cross the pass to one of two camping spots ideal for tomorrow and the day after.

14 Chakskang/Sumdo 4270m

With a rest day, we can take a day trip to see the village of Lingshed, with its famed monastery and pretty fields.

15 - trek Nyete / Zingchan via Hanuma La 4710m

We are now on the classic Zanskar trek route and cross a not so high pass and descend along the small valley. If anyone backpacked the other route, then we will meet tonight.

16 - trek Hanumil 3600m via Parpi La 3900m

The classic Zanskar trek infamously crossed five passes in as many days, and indeed we have another climb to a pass today, rewarded by seeing the Zanskar River below.

17 - trek-drive Zangla 3600m

After a couple of hours walk we meet the road drive to our peaceful camp.

18 - rest Zangla 3600m

We take a well-deserved rest day while the crew resupply. You could join them to discover Padum or visit the stunningly set Karsha Gompa.

19 - trek Zangla Sumdo 3850m

Canyon trekking adventures with plenty of river crossings, we may have to start early!

20 - trek high camp

There are few places to camp however there is one unlikely spot with a spring that sets us up well for tomorrow.

21 - trek Yarichun 4220m via Pangdang La 5150m

A day with magnificent panoramas - and those flame rocks too.

22 - trek Ningri/via Lar La 4680m

We splash along the river and share the trail with yaks.

23- trek Shade 4220m via Rotang La 4900m

Shade is another most remote, scenic village and we watch the sheep flocks being brought back at the end of the day.

24 - rest Shade 4220m

We enjoy a break at our favourite village and watch baby yaks being fed.

25 - trek hidden camp ~4000m

Tucked a little way up a side valley, this hidden camp breaks what is otherwise a long day.

26 - trek Phuktal 3830m

This is the inset, iconic and vibrant monastery of Zanskar.

27 - trek Purne / Testa / Trangtse 4000m

We look around this active monastery then down valley meet the new rough road and we will likely stay at Purne or jeep the rest of the way to another camp.

28 - drive-rest Kargyak 4120m

Although on the road, there is a neat camp by the river and we can explore the village with Kunga, and meet his family.

29 - trek Tserichen (Surichan) La BC ~5000m

We climb out of the main valley leaving the road and villages behind with the mountain views opening out.

30 - trek Chumik Marpo via Tserichen La 5620m

A breathless high pass with Himalayan panoramas.

31 - trek Kham Krap Sumdo or further 4500m

Perhaps a shorter day, we descend along the valley as it broadens and changes in character and camp at one of the many good spots along the way.

32 - trek Sarchu 4300m

There are trails on both sides but the south side is better and we cover some distance to camp at a spring well below and out of sight from the road.

33 - trek Tsarap Chu via Tingting Khurd ~4300m

After a resupply, we drive to Whiskey Bridge and head off the road to camp a short way along the Tsarap Chu.

34 - Pangpo La junction 4550m

Oh so remote - scan for wildlife!

35 - 2014 camp ~5000m

The valley system is breathtaking (and begs to be explored another time).

36 - 2014 camp ~5000m

Can we explore up a side valley?

37 - trek Takling via forgotten pass 5252m

This pass discovered by Jamie doesn't exist correctly on any maps and does not appear to have been crossed by anyone other than wild animals. I have been up both sides but not crossed it.

38 - trek Tharang Yogma 4750m

Still in large unvisited by people valley systems, only kiang and other wild animals roam.

39 - trek Parang La high camp 5080m

Now back on this known route, we trek up the valley to the rough high camp to put us in the best position for tomorrow.

40 - trek Jugtha/Thaltak via Parang La 5700m

Yes, the horses must also cross the glacier and it is a relief to cross, although the day is far from over with the brutal gorge and climb out to finish.

41 - trek Kibber 4200m (drive Kaza??)

We farewell the mules and trek crew and settle into a lodge here, hopefully with a hot shower, or perhaps we begin the drive.

42 - drive Tabo via Key Gompa

We need an Inner Line permit obtained in Kaza to drive down the Tibet Hindustan Highway then we continue on to impressive Tabo. (The office is closed Sundays)!

43 - drive Reckong Peo

We are very close to the Tibet border.

44 - drive Shimla

A good days driving down into greener hills brings us to this still pleasant if busy hill station.

45 - explore Shimla

After several days of driving we have a day to wander around.

Day 46 - - toy train and train to Delhi

We take the 10.30 Himalayan Queen 'toy train' to Kalka and connect with a fast train to Delhi arriving 22:40 which would suit a night flight out from early morning.

Day 47 - Saturday 28 Sept - depart Delhi from 2am onwards

You can take a flight out from 2am onwards (assuming a 2.5 hour check-in time at 23:30 although from 3am might be safer.

Sarchu finish option

With less time, finishing in Sarchu avoids the road trip. For previous Great Divide trekkers, finishing the trek at Sarchu avoids the section you already partly know.