Detailed itinerary
We plan to follow the itinerary however roads wash out, or are extended, occasionally people get sick, logistical challenges arise, or we hear of a better campsite, and so we will adapt it as needed.
(Day 0 - arrive Delhi / early Leh arrival)
We spend three nights in Leh, so reasonable acclimatization to the
3480m/11,415ft altitude and our first night is a at a similar altitude too, prior to sleeping higher.
Included in all our Ladakh trips are a couple of sightseeing trips, with or
without a cultural guide (your choice) and it is your choice of where to go;
many people joining us are previous trekkers so have seen some places previously.
If you are more ambitious we can also arrange a day or overnight trip
to Alchi (~3100m), Likir and Basgo Gompas or further afield Lamayuru (~3500m), a day rafting trip on the Zanskar River or hammer down the Khardung La on a mountain bike (best a few days into your Leh
sojourn). If you have several days, we recommend a Nubra jeep safari or overnighting at Panggong Lake. The cost for all of these adventures are reasonable, and paid directly to the drivers in Leh.
If you have been working flat out you are welcome to just relax, kick back and de-stress too.
Sophie admires a mural at Basgo - Jamie
Day 1 - meet in Leh 3480m
Phew, after a long series of flights, you are here! Look for a Project Himalaya sign or a simple sign with your
name on it at the airport, and our wonderful drivers Lobsang or Ang Chuk will pick you up.
Jamie meets you at the hotel on your arrival and we discuss altitude health (and the time zone change for North Americans) over
tea/coffee or breakfast then introduce Leh and show you the better places
to eat. Most people crash out for a few hours and spend the day relaxing and recovering. Do drink
plenty of fluids, which helps the acclimatization process, and do also pop some multi-vitamins to help in a small way to ward off colds from the plane or being rundown from the travel.
We normally go out to
dinner together so let's meet in the peaceful hotel garden by 6:30pm; arrive earlier to soak in the view. We eat at some of our favourite clean (very important!) restaurants: Chopsticks, Bon Appetit and Tibet Kitchen.
Day 2 & 3 - Leh 3480m
These are days for experiencing the revered gompas, monasteries and palaces of the Indus Valley, ie a short drive from Leh. We arrange a jeep or two (and a local
culture guide if you like, included). Usually, we arrange as a morning trip with a late lunch out of Leh then
you can relax in the afternoon although we can easily arrange a full day trip as an alternative.
Choosing what to see is the biggest
challenge, there are so many special places to visit. Close by are Spituk Gompa and Stok Palace. To the east is Shey Palace, and the gompas Thikse, Hemis, Chemde, Thagthok, Stakna and Matho, although don't plan on visiting all of them in one day. Thikse also has a good restaurant for lunch.
Heading west out of Leh are Spituk, Phyang, Nyemo where the Indus meets the Zanskar River, and further afield are Basgo, Likir and Alchi.
We also go on a walking experience around Leh, often lead by Esther.
Visiting a gompa is atmospheric and a timeless experience engendering respect for their philosophy.
By chance on a sightseeing trip to Matho we watched this ceremony - Jamie
Day 4 - drive Skyu 3300m, trek Harmochen 3480m 13.5km
Time to stretch the legs, we pack for some hot weather trekking today with a hat, sunscreen, snacks and plenty of water.
After breakfast, we drive an hour or so to delightful, historic Alchi, the oldest intact gompa in the region. After an early lunch, we drive to Chiling and across the new road bridge to Skyu, where our crew are waiting for us. We trek for a couple of hours to our camp where there is shade and a wonderful afternoon tea awaits. We introduce our crew and the camp, and your tent; your home for the following 10 or so days. In the warmth, we usually eat dinner and breakfast outside for tonight and the next couple of days.
Afternoon tea is ready! And a handwashing set up - Jamie
Day 5 - trek Markha 3700m 14km
The walking is straightforward, mostly just above the valley floor but it can be quite a hot walk, do drink plenty today. There are several crystal clear water springs along the way where we can top up, not needing to filter the water.
We pass the remains of old hermitage caves high on the opposite cliffs. Inside are the remains of tiny caves where lamas once sat in meditation,
platforms carved in rock. Look also at the chortens - inside are piles of tiny 'tsatsas', the remains of ashes of the departed formed into tiny clay figurines.
As the valley widens we spot the old fort on
the hill above Markha village. Long ago invaders from what is now Pakistan coveted the high grazing and livestock of Nyimaling, thus the need for the fortifications all along the Markha valley.
Sometimes we camp by the school, sometimes 10 minutes before the actual village, in a spot that also suitable for the horses.
After afternoon tea do wander up to the local gompa, the view is satisfying while inside is dark and chang-smelling. Look, and look
again, the more you look, the more you will see.
Markha village - Jamie
Day 6 - trek Hangkar 4000m 14km
This is another day of ambling along the trails used by countless shepherds
and traders over the centuries, passing impressive cliffs, where blue sheep frolic An imposing rock spire to the right marks the entrance to the valley leading to the Rabrang La, which we explored on our wildlife trek in 2017, and is also the Jumlam route to Zanskar. Legend says that the Dogra army that conquered Ladakh in the early 19th century was led this way to their prize, the Indus valley and Leh, by a renegade Zanskari.
Around the next bend is the spectacularly set hilltop monastery of Tetsa/Tacha, well worth the climbing detour, providing we are moving well. We might lunch in front of the impressively sited centuries old crumbling fort above or shade in Hankar village, the last village of the valley.
Esther crossing the steam above Markha - Jamie
Day 7-8 trek Langtang Chen 4300m/4400m
Blue sheep horns and skull en route to the Konka Nongpo - Jamie
Day 9 - trek Nyimaling 4840m ~10km
It is a grind up to the pass, with widening views as recompense. Cresting the pass, the views really open out to a huge panorama including the snow slopes of Kang Yatse II, popular with Indian climbers.
With some ups and downs passing Kang Yatse Base Camp, we then drop to the long Nyimaling plain where villagers from the
Markha Valley graze their sheep in summer and make curd and cheese from the milk of their livestock. We camp in a convenient spot and drink in the views.
What a backdrop, near Nyimaling - Jamie
Day 10-11 - rest-explore Nyimaling ~4840m
Here at not far off 5000m we take a break to acclimatize,
wash clothes and explore this wonderful, panoramic valley.
There is a choice of day trips with the most ambitous to the top of the Konmaru La.
If the team is feeling good, alternatively we can camp two nights at Nyimaling and then pop over the 5320m Chhaksang La / Lhalung La to a scenic and isolated campsite there. Then, the next day we would pop back over near the Lhalung La to our base camp.
Collecting fuel; the traditional lifestyle is still alive at Nyimaling - Jamie
Day 12 - trek Dzo Jongo Camp 5100m ~6.6km including Lhalung La
Less than two hours along the valley, this is also partly an acclimatization day, and a day for exploring. The panorama is inspiring from the Chhaksang La/Lhalung La, a little-used alternative exit for the Markha trek while further up the valley are a series of lakes. Its also possible to climb up towards Reponi Mallai and some of the ridge shoulders nearby.
Pikaboo! A pika playing hide and seek - Jamie
Day 13 - Dzo Jongo Camp 5100m
There is plenty to explore from here, and the highlight is perhaps the glacial lakes near the head of the valley. Or relax and read. today. If you didn't already check the panoramic view of the peak from the Chhaksang La/Lhalung La, then that is a good, less energetic alternative.
Colours ... I love the contrasting reds and greens, fading into the distance
The view from the Lhalung La - Jamie
Day 14 - Konka Ri viewpoint 5700m
Perhaps this hill is best called baldy, as it is such a smooth dome. The ascent will involve a bit of puff, but the rewards are surprising and immense. We are surrounded by mountains near and far, and by far, I mean as far as 250km with K2 and other Karakoram peaks way in the distance!
Views across to some peaks - Jamie
Day 15 - trek Chokdo ~20km via Konmaru La 5260m, drive Leh
This is another particularly satisfying trek day. After hopping across the stream without getting wet, we traverse and ascend the red Konmaru La, fluttering prayer flags on top. The descend starts on a good trail with open views then descends into that burnt magenta rock gorge, sometimes amid the boulders on the rough floor, sometimes a traverse out to skip an impassable section. We meet the jeeps at 2-4pm at the village of Chokdo which is several hours before the old end point of Shang Sumdo and it is only a couple of hours drive to Leh where we deserve a cold beer and a celebratory
meal. Chopsticks, Tibet Kitchen or Bon Appetit?
Esther (with a bigger than usual backpack) descending the formidable gorge to Chokdo - Jamie
Day 16 - trip ends
You are free to take the morning flight to Delhi, or just enjoy more time in this central Asian town of yore.
Julley!
