2027 Rupshu+ *exploratory
Classic adventure trekking and yesteryear exploration
Using knowledge built up over seasons of traversing this forgotten area, this is our unique exploration from the edge of Zanksar across the wildest, most remote part of sublime Rupshu.
"Zanskar, the ‘Land of White Copper’, is a land where fairies congregate. A land of black wolves and blue poppies, ibex and snow leopards, glaciers and tundra, of howling winds and freezing cold. A land populated by spirits and monks, maidens and archers, a land with cave monasteries and fast streams in which gold is found, along with that famous white copper which gave the place its name. Zanskar is a land with two kings who still lord over a feudal peasantry, the highest inhabitants of our planet. This land truly exists, yet one could search a long time to find its name on a map. [and the name 'Rupshu' still!] ... ‘Unexplored’, mentioned the Indian Gazetteer at the beginning of the century, and strangely enough in 1976 one could have written nearly the same thing, for no one has studied the area, which at best gets a passing mention in the work of the few travellers to other Himalayan districts such as Ladakh. Yet the Kingdom of Zanskar was founded in the year AD 930, a hundred and thirty-six years before William conquered England, all this being well recorded in Tibetan texts, as I was to discover."
Michel Peissel's opening in his classic "Zanskar, the Hidden Kingdom", published in 1979 which can be downloaded here.
Paying homage to where the Tsarap Chu merges into the Zanskar river (can we reach that old bridge of memories?), we begin from famed Phuktal Gompa and trek to the most delightful Zanskar village of Shade, familiar to many of our previous trekkers. We continue over the panoramic twin passes as it is briefly impossible to follow the river, to then traverse mostly slightly above the river on a delightful, scenic trail.
At a village barely visited by outsiders (ie less visited than Shade!), we resupply nearby and head into most remote Rupshu, only traversable for a couple of months of the year. It is an area so wild, we will be the first humans that many of the animals have ever seen. Previously, we have watched kiang ponder us, fascinated.
At the headwaters of the Tsarap Chu, there is a mystery. Are there long forgotten passes? Regardless, our exit is over another bygone pass that only we have crossed this millenia. The last barrier is the formidable glaciated Parang La to Spiti.
This is a rare journey at the very best time of the season and regardless of whether exploratory or not, a most impressive trek in its own right.
2027 Pin Bhaba+ *skypacking
The above Rupshu trek finishes at Kibber, which is a (familiar) week-long road trip out to anywhere. So instead, after recovery and a brief drive, we continue trekking on the classic Spiti to Kinnaur Pin Bhaba route, desert to lush forests. Why not?!
And since it is only 4 nights or so, we will probably backpack light (although we may be able to get some porter assistance to the first couple of camps?).
Oh, and then, since we are so close, why not trek to the Garhwal? The Chitkul to Harsil trek is a great nearby option!
