Robin's unknown Ganesh trek

Robin and team finally manage to explore the Ganesh Himal

G'day all,

With our plans disrupted by street protests we changed our trek plans, see our Gosainkund adventure.

Kathmandu

A rest day in Kathmandu is rarely as advertised. Our dear friend Mr Puru had generously asked if we would like to take Geoff to meet his children (something we always do on a Saturday when we're in town) and of course he jumped at the chance. Judy wasn't up for anything much and only just managed to cope with breakfast so Geoff and I set off together. During the previous trek Geoff had bought a travel version of Connect 4 and Battleships which he now donated to the Dhakal household and the kids loved the games. After 3 hours of constant playing I didn't have the anticipated headache! That evening the 3 of us went out for dinner and then I asked Geoff if he'd like to come to Sam's Bar, he surprised me by agreeing! Not only that but we became so engrossed in conversation at the bar that it was 1am before we left!

The next day was much more like a rest day with a slow breakfast and the gradual process of packing up gear for the trek Pema and Chanda had everything ready and it was easy to just let them handle all the details.

Day 1

As we had left all the crew we would need in Dhunche, except for Chanda and Pema I decided to save time by taking a 4WD back up the road. Although faster this is a much more uncomfortable option than a bus and we all arrived feeling battered and bruised in Syabru Besi, the next and last town on the road after Dhunche. A hot shower and a Chanda feast soon had us sleeping like babies.

Day 2

The walk from Syabru Besi up to Briddim takes about 4 hours along a very pleasant forested trail. As this was meant to be a relaxing trek for Geoff I saw no reason to be in any rush, which Judy was thankful for as her knees were being recalcitrant the whole way.

I love the village of Briddim, it is clean, tidy, friendly, and has a welcoming atmosphere. The villagers soon turned out to see who had arrived and some of them remembered us from our previous visit. As tourism is still so undeveloped in this region it was no surprise that we were the only camping group to have stayed since we came in December 2004.

During the afternoon I took Geoff, Pema and Boss (one of our sherpas) around the village and retold the folk-tales that the headman had told me last time. Pema loves such stories and instead of a party that night, he retold them to the entire crew.

Day 3

Before breakfast the next morning a bunch of local women turned up with handicrafts to sell. Their demeanour was friendly and they adopted a fixed price system which I prefer to endless haggling, especially so early in the day. The trail further up the Rasuwa valley descends to the river and then is 'Nepali flat' (same amount of up and down) until you reach a great campsite where we spread out our gear in the sun. Somehow Judy's sleeping bag managed to find a flea here and for the next few days she was bitten mercilessly.

Day 4

Sun, river and no rush caused a spontaneous desire to have a rest day. We just lay about and enjoyed some precious peace and quiet for the day. Pema and Geoff went to the nearby village of Timure where Pema was able to buy a goat. I had wanted to buy a goat on the previous trek as the boys had expressed an interest in watching it being dispatched so now I took the opportunity to video all the most gory parts with Geoff's camera – I apologize now to anyone who unwittingly sees the movie! Judy was occupied with her bites and avoiding the kitchen tent whenever bits of the goat appeared.

Day 5

Just before the campsite is a small suspension bridge that leads to a steep switchback trail that rises to a small village called Dahal Phedi. By 11am we'd climbed the trail and were relaxing in the front yard of a primary school with a small crowd of children watching our every move. Geoff was of course enamoured with them all and had a great time taking pictures of the kids.

The trail climbs a little more before another Nepali flat section as you arrive in perhaps one of the dirtiest villages of the entire Himalaya - Tungmen. It was sad to see that nothing had improved since our last visit, and it is such a stark contrast to Briddim (which can be seen across the valley) that Pema felt obliged to chastise every local he met!

The old caretaker of the gompa (monastery) remembered me from our last visit when I fixed an infected finger so the locals where more open and responsive to us than before. We made an effort to have a party and try and encourage the locals to join in but they are still very shy here.

Day 6

The trail just goes up to Nag Thali, first across pastures and then thru dense forest. At least the locals had spent some time improving the track – it made it easier to get out of town. I like Nag Thali and the view of the surrounding valleys. It is easy to see why a gompa has been built here, the place is so peaceful – apart from the barking dogs of some local herders that kept us awake all night!

Day 7

The previous evening had been heavily clouded and we were unsure if there would be any views, but the dawn was clear and Geoff was able to indulge his photographic habit a little more. The last time we trekked up from Nag Thali was in December, a cold month when the locals don't allow their animals to graze the higher pastures, and we were extremely lucky to see Red Pandas in the forest and have a visit from a Black Bear in the camp at night. However, this time the locals had been busy chopping firewood and their animals had scared away any wildlife. So although we had high hopes, all we saw was wood chips and the occasional bird, oh, and more and more mountains!

By the time we got to high camp there was just enough time to appreciate the amazing view of the Langtang, Ganesh Himal and numerous Tibetan mountain ranges around us. But by early afternoon the cloud had again descended and all we could do was wander around and admire the rhododendrons. Geoff found a snare at one point and we all enjoyed a self-righteous moment while destroying it – perhaps another wild chicken will live a little longer!

Day 8

A very slow breakfast was an ideal way to sit and admire the view again the following morning. I can't imagine a better spot to sip a cup of tea or coffee. Packing up the camp as the clouds came down at 11am was a good idea as it meant a cool walk back to Nag Thali where we arrived a few hours later. This time we camped away from the dogs.

Day 9

I had expected that Judy's knees would take exception to the mornings descent but she flew along the trail and with a couple of hours we had arrived at Tatopani – the biggest hot springs in the Nepal Himalaya. The crew were overjoyed to be here, now everyone could enjoy a bath, apart from Judy that is, as modesty is justified even in these remote areas. Pema was immediately in for a quick 2 hour soak and as each person finished their chores we all ended up having a dip.

That evening the crew were relaxed and in a fun mood so I suggested a small party, that if all went well, the locals girls would come too. They didn't believe that there were any local girls to be seen, but by 8pm a small crowd of 3 to 80 year old women had gathered to admire the crew's gyrations. Even Geoff indulged in some outlandish moves on the dirt dance floor as everyone munched on yet another Chanda cake.

Day 10

It is all downhill to Syabru Besi, and passed another dirty village – Chilime. But this joint has some of the prettiest little girls I have ever seen and it was no surprise that Geoff spent an hour taking pictures of them all. A brief lunch and chat with the local head honcho's wife in Thanget and then we were trying to beat the rain back to Syabru Besi and our last night party. Geoff was in charge of handing out the tips and Pema danced his socks off, it was a great time for all.

The following morning meant another trip down the Dhunche road and I must admit to being a bit tired of the four hour section to Trisuli. And so was the bus as it needed some major suspension work by the time we had got to the tarmac. The heavens opened and the road was awash, which made motorcycling a real hazard – as one driver found our when he landed in a tree rather than taking a corner. A bad truck accident reminded us that this is a perilous road in bad weather. So back in Kathmandu I felt the best way to forget the road trip was to have a party, and there is no place better for a Nepali knees-up than a Dohori bar. I'll let Geoff try to explain…

Geoff stunned us by working out that he had taken 8,000 photos over the month! The poor guys at the internet café across from Hotel Karma were flat out burning CD's all day! That night we went to dinner at Pema's house, and Chanda was on hand to produce another monster meal. Pema's children, Jongbu and Aungmo, admired a selection of photos that Geoff had had printed.

The following morning I felt a little tender from too much food and beer from the previous couple of days so Judy and Puru got to see Geoff off at the airport. It felt like a sudden and disjointed end to a month of trekking and laughs. I hope that everyone involved looks back on their time with fond memories of the mountains and people of Nepal, and that plans are already afoot for a return someday.

Life returns to normal – Sam's at 6, dinner, gossip and planning for Mustang!