Himlung Expedition 7126m

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A remote,7000 meter peak climb

This is a trip of stunning scenery, traditional villages, and a focused climb of Himlung peak. You must have mountaineering experience prior to joining this climb, and a good level of overall fitness. Our expedition begins in the lower Marshyangdi river valley, with views up valley hinting that something massive lies around the corner. We'll trek through evergreen forests, home of the black-faced langur monkey; and move through Gurung villages en route to the Nar valley; where traditional Tibetan villages huddle in ochre valleys with white snow capped peaks rising above. Harvest time mostly completed, we'll visit with villagers as they ready for winter to lay its white cloak over the Himalaya. Higher we trek, finally reaching the Phu valley and our base camp; where our climb begins..

Outline itinerary

We'll trek into Base Camp in 9 days (allowing for acclimatization), and descend to Syanje and Kathmandu in 5 days which gives 17 days for climbing on Himlung. Trekking out guarantees you catch your international flight home; the alternative to trekking out is the unreliable flight from Manang.

Detailed itinerary

Early arrival

Arriving early can be a great way to begin unwinding, we will arrange airport transfer and hotel, no problem.

Day 1

Our experience begins in cultural Kathmandu, where we'll have a relaxed dinner after a long travel day (optional). If you're missing any expedition items, this is a good time to bring this up to Luke.

Day 2

Today you'll have time to pick up any last minute items and perhaps do some sightseeing in the Kathmandu valley. That evening, we'll have a trip briefing and discuss the expedition and its intricacies in detail.

Day 3

Morning, we depart at 7am and drive down the wide Trisuli river and then up the Marshyangdi River, where our trek to base camp begins in the village of Syanje. The expedition begins..

Day 4 - 11

We trek up the Marshyangdi valley, then to the Nar valley, and on into the Phu valley where Himlung Base Camp lies.

Day 12

We rest in BC (Base Camp) and make gear preparations for the mountain. The Sherpa guides climb ahead and set up camp 1, as ABC was already set up previously. We go over what to keep in Base Camp, what needs to go to ABC, and what will come with you up the mountain on this first push up the mountain.

Day 13

We trek to ABC (Advanced Base Camp) and rest for the afternoon. Above this point is where the climbing begins, so we'll get our climbing boots out and make sure our packs are dialed to move higher. Luke will go over what to have in your pack for higher on the mountain, and what you can keep here at the base.

Day 14

We have an active rest day in ABC. Those that feel strong will go for an acclimatization climb on the mountain. The key is to exercise at each elevation while we move up. You don't get stronger at altitude sitting around camp.

day 15

We climb to Camp 1 (5619m), probably really feeling the altitude. We'll climb slowly and methodically, the guide setting the pace in front. It's best we start early for a number of reasons, including sun exposure, snow stability, and timing our day properly. The sun's reflection (albedo) can cause quite a sunburn on snow, so we want to avoid the warmest part of the day.

Day 16

We have an active rest day in Camp 1, those that are feeling strong climb higher with gear, and then we move up the following day with lighter loads.

Day 17

We climb to Camp 2, maintaining our rhythm using the "rest step", and climbing efficiently. We'll stop every hour to drink fluids and have some energy food. It's important to constantly hydrate and eat food while climbing so you don't "crash". We'll discuss this in detail before leaving Kathmandu or en route to the trailhead.

Day 18

We have an active rest day in Camp 2, those that feel strong moving higher on the mountain with a load. We are much stronger as an team, so we'll work together to climb the mountain, looking out for each other, and communicating clearly any objective hazards the guide points out (crevasses, rock fall, etc.) .

Day 19

We climb to Camp 3, have lunch and take in the view, and then descend to Camp 2 for the night. This will be our highest point (6317m) on the mountain during the acclimatization phase. You should feel the altitude, and find it tough going. The idea behind acclimatization is that when you return to this altitude on our summit push, it won't necessarily be easier but your body will be physiologically more tolerant of the altitude.

Day 20

We descend to BC, and rest for the evening, enjoying the relatively thick air. For the following two days, we will rest well and eat good recovery meals.

Day 21-22

We rest in base camp and prepare our minds and bodies for the summit push. If all climbers are feeling strong, we may move to ABC to make our day shorter tomorrow.

Day 23

We climb to Camp 1, taking most of the day.

Day 24

We climb to Camp 2.

Day 25

We climb to Camp 3

Day 26

We climb to Camp 4

Day 27

We climb to the summit of Himlung (!) , and return to Camp 1.

Day 28

We descend to BC and breathe thicker air again.

Day 29-32

We trek to Junam Goth. Our goal is to move is quickly and as far as we can down to thicker air and hot showers and beer in Kathmandu. You'll be ready!

Day 33

We drive through the steep river gorges of Nepal, the greenery and extra oxygen a welcome experience. Upon reaching Kathmandu, we'll get settled in our hotel rooms to wash up; Luke can show climbers a place for a haircut and shave, and then we'll go for a celebratory dinner.

Day 34

This day is for "just in case " on the mountain. If you or one of your fellow climbing members doesn't feel well, or if the weather turns bad, we'll be glad to have this day.

Day 35

Today you are free to travel home, or remain on in Kathmandu.

Trip Philosophy and Detail

Every experience in the mountains is dynamic. We build an specific itinerary for our trip, but it will certainly evolve. This evolution hinges upon a variety of factors. Chiefly; health of your fellow climbers, mountain weather, road conditions, and reasons unforeseen will change the day to day goings-on of the trip. It is important that you come to the trip with an attitude that things can and will change. We do our best to ensure your comfort and safety from the day you arrive in Nepal, to the day you step foot back on the plane for home.

We are not a summit service, we are mountain guides that make decisions based on facts, and nothing else. If we did reach the summit and someone was injured (frostbite, etc.), I take it personally and consider it a small failure. A team that comes back from the mountains uninjured is a successful one, summit or not. This is the philosophy that will ensure you have a long and positive career in mountaineering.

We will have one Sherpa guide for every three climbers, so expect to be helping with making camps, and carrying your personal gear on the climb. Our Sherpa guides are very experienced, most with a summit (or three) of Everest under their belt. They are strong, patient, and caring. High altitude mountaineering is not only their job, but also their passion.

Preparations

You need to be very fit for this expedition. You should begin training several months in advance. Climbing to 7000 meters requires high cardiovascular health. Do visit our expedition preparation page for important detail, and also our gear discussion page.

Our Attitude

We approach an expedition with a serious and focused intent to help you accomplish your goal. We strive to maximize your potential enjoyment, without comprising safety.

Interested? Contact us.

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