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Tukuche Climbing Camp

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6000m+ play time!

Tukuche is a 6920m peak that is easy to access with a safe route up to 6800m, and close by are a 6000m and 6300m peak perfect for playing around on. What a mountain paradise!


We start with the trek around Dhaulagiri to get us up to Hidden Valley. This is a classic but it it tough and should not be underestimated. We trek in an ultra-light style, staying in local houses and lodges and you carry your own trek clothing for this section as we don't take porters. In the higher sections we camp and the sherpas will carry the shared tents and meals. Climbing gear etc will go in to BC via a different route.

Day 1 - arrive Kathmandu 1350m

2 - in Kathmandu

3 - fly Pokhara, drive Darbang, trek Bima Khara

4 - trek Bogahara

5 - trek Doban 2450m

6 - trek Italian Base Camp 3620m

7 - rest Italian Base Camp 3620m

8 - trek Japanese Base Camp 4220m

9 - trek Dhaulagiri Base Camp 4650m

10 - rest Dhaulagiri Base Camp 4650m

11 - trek French Col to Hidden Valley 5100m

12 - Hidden Valley Base Camp 5100m

13 - Hidden Valley Base Camp 5100m

14-29 climbing

30 - trek Yak Kharka/Marpha

31 - trek Jomsom

32 - fly Jomsom-Pokhara-Kathmandu

33 - Kathmandu

Day 34 - depart


Almost 7000m peak

Classic trekking region

Small team


Jamie McGuinness

Mobile: (+977) 98021 49789


Sherpa leader/(Jamie McGuinness)?

Arrival hotel

? Hotel Shakti, Thamel

tel: 441 0121, 442 9508

Local office contact

Expedition Himalaya

Tel: +9771 400 1066

Nabin Trital: +977 98510 04278

Pasang Nuru: +977 98130 91051

Our service includes

Airport transfers

5 nights hotel in Kathmandu, single w breakfast, in Thamel

All group transportation by private vehicle

All expedition fees (climbing royalty, liaison officer costs, garbage deposit etc)

Other entrance fees and permits as needed

on expedition:

BC and mountain services

walkie talkies, all meals, all tents

solar charging for cameras etc

Our service excludes

Insurance, Nepal visa, meals in Kathmandu

in Kathmandu

Personal climbing equipment

Emergency evacuation

International flights to Kathmandu, equipment rental, alcohol and soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Tukuche Peak 6920m

Tukuche Peak with Dhaulagiri behind, we climb the right ridge - Jamie

Dhaulagiri trail

A section of the trail to the last village; wide but check that exposure! - Jamie

adventurous bridge

A rustic, adventurous bridge - Jamie

Salla Ghadi cooks

Our cooks at Salla Ghadi, the dal bhaat was delicious - Jamie

Detailed itinerary

Day 1 - arrive Kathmandu 1350m

We meet you at the airport, look for a Project Himalaya sign with your name on it.

2 - in Kathmandu

Meet the team! This is a last minute preparation and shopping day. You can leave any gear which you don't need during the expedition at the hotel.

3 - fly Pokhara, drive Darbang, trek Bima Khara

We take a morning flight to Pokhara, hop on a bus from the airport and drive to the end of the road, Darbang (which is past Beni), then in the late afternoon we see if we can trek to the first village, and there is a simple lodge here that has surprisingly good dal bhaat.

4 - trek Bogahara

This is classic middle hills trekking and will be hot today. We take the shortcut route to the village, a small and sometimes exposed trail. There may be one section where ropes are required. This is not the normal, longer trekking route via Takum.

5 - trek Doban 2450m

We leave the last village behind and trek to a grazing kharka with a couple of simple lodges.

6 - trek Italian Base Camp 3620m

We leave early as this is a relatively long day and we are getting to real altitude.

7 - rest Italian Base Camp 3620m

We have gained some altitude and tomorrow will gain more so we have a rest day here. We will inspect the route on to the glacier and fix a rope.

8 - trek Japanese Base Camp 4220m

We leave the simple teahouses behind and descend the rope to cross the glacier, then climb up the other side. It is a spectacular trail, but there are some dangerous sections, BEWARE of rock fall in a couple of sections. We camp, sharing tents, on the glacier. Or perhaps you want to sleep outside? Consider taking Diamox here, talk over with Phil.

9 - trek Dhaulagiri Base Camp 4650m

Route-finding is critical today, and beware of crevasses if off route. We camp at the base camp used to climb Dhaulagiri via the normal route.

10 - rest Dhaulagiri Base Camp 4650m

We acclimatize to lessen the pain for tomorrow. Enjoy the massive mountain scenes!

11 - trek French Col to Hidden Valley 5100m

Again ensure you are on the right route. We cross the 5370m French Col for new vistas, and trek down to our base camp in Hidden Valley. This will already be set up and Sarki and the crew will be waiting for us with some good food!

At BC you get your own tent.

12-13 - Base Camp 5100m

We acclimatize further and have a puja, a ceremony to show respect for the mountain. The puja is held on an auspicious day decided by the sherpas.

14-29 climbing

We will set up several camps on the mountain, and spend time acclimatizing, building up to a summit attempt. The summit attempt will be somewhat weather-dependent, as all big peaks are. It will be cold, probably down suit conditions for summit day...

If we summit early there are a number of other peaks around worth looking at.

30 - trek Yak Kharka/Marpha

The beauty of Tukuche is we can get back to Kathmandu quickly, and today we trek to Yak Kharka, although it is possible to get to Marpha if you push it (hard on the knees, a 2585m/8500ft descent).

31 - trek Jomsom

We trek via Marpha and its good restaurants to Jomsom, the district headquarters here. Hot showers (do you have any clean clothes?)!

32 - fly Jomsom-Pokhara-Kathmandu

We take a morning flight out. The flights are reasonably reliable here but if it is postponed then we can bus to Pokhara in a long, tough day.

33 - Kathmandu

This is a free recovery day. (If we didn't fly yesterday then we fly from Pokhara to Kathmandu today).

Day 34 - depart


We are climbing a 7000m mountain later than normal and it will be COLD (but hopefully gloriously fine). Trekking and at BC, and even lower on the mountain should be pleasant enough but the high camps and summit will be savagely cold, perhaps like a reasonable summit day on Cho Oyu. So these are good conditions to use your 8000m gear. Do review our Cho Oyu-Shishapangma gear list and basically the only changes are

- one sleeping bag only

- down suit is optional but if you don't have then you need a thick down jacket and warm primaloft or similar pants

- one set of mattresses

- small summit pack not necessary

- either trek with your expedition pack or bring an additional 35-45 litre trek pack

Gear will be packed in kit bags rather than drums, crampons and ice axe separately (we will handle). Pack your climbing gear separately from trekking gear. The climbing gear will not necessarily be accessible during the trek in. Do consider how to pack and how to keep your gear to a reasonable quantity. Also consider whether you will trek in with a large day pack and a porter carrying a kitbag or carry most or all of your trekking gear yourself, either way is OK.


We have run many successful and safe expeditions however you must understand this is as real as it gets. We try our best with safety and gear within the limits of the expedition budget but this is 7000m and anything can happen. Even with good gear, good everything, the risk of death is small but real. As with most mountains there is UNAVOIDABLE avalanche danger, although the probability is low.

We try our best and we are very responsible, caring people however we are not liable for anything, full stop.

The trekking pole and longer ice axe combo is often more appropriate than fancy dual technical tools - Jamie

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