Crew reference letters

Recommendation letters are important in Pakistan; I appreciated our crew's hard work.

The kitchen crew

In all our kitchen team worked well together, and certainly worked hard, when needed. If people arrived late then they would prepare more, and we never had to wait for meals, in fact many were ready earlier than the time we expected. The meals were mostly standard Pakistani trekking style, nutritious and easy to eat, if slightly monotonous.

I would be happy to have the same crew again. Combined, their English was passable, with some care.

Hameed – table waiter

Quiet but surprisingly attentive. Nothing was too much trouble, and he excelled at our table waiter, also passing feedback to the kitchen.

Mehdi – chapatti maker and dish washer

Hard working and quiet; thanks for thousands of chapattis!

Medhi - kitchen hand

Hard working, would complement a good cook. He also carried the biggest pack out of anyone. Certainly has the energy to be trekking crew, not just expedition crew.

Ashraf – cook

The base camp pizza was just what we needed, Ashraf was helpful and worked in our interests, finding good deals around base camp. His other meals were certainly filling but I have the feeling that ATP didn’t provide enough variety in the supplies for him to show his full talents (or he didn't buy enough supplies); we only had a few excellent Chinese dishes, not full meals. with encouragement, he could be a top cook.

Back row L-R: young Mehdi, Ashraf and Hameed (both after using an electric razor)
Seated: Ibrahim, older Medhi (the Chapatti maker) and Wolam Nabi.

The High Altitude Porters (HAPs)

I learnt the common issues with HAPs on Broad Peak in 2004 so started with some clear directives and aims when I met the team in Skardu. We had a good team discussion and they immediately understood and cooperated right from the beginning. It may also be that the Pakistan Alpine Club training played a positive role too. The team carried all the loads we needed, and as soon as they were able, and worked together well. It was unfortunate that the weather was so bad; they were unable to show how strong they could be at real altitude.

Our team spoke just enough English for everything to work. They made some good safety calls, but didn't use them as an excuse at all.

I would be happy to have the same team again. We had no HAP problems but most other expeditions did.

Mehrban Shah - from Shimshal

Having summitted K2 previously, and now assisting with some mountaineering training programs, he was by default the leader of the HAPs. Even with some minor eye trouble -- get that simple operation performed! -- he didn't use that as an excuse. With Jahan Beg, he climbed to Camp 2 on GII in less than ideal conditions to retrieve our Camp 2 gear. He also was one of the first to start rescuing climbers caught in an avalanche.

Jahan Beg - from Shimshal

Has climbed Gasherbrum II and perhaps Gasherbrum I, or at least high on the mountain, and worked on many other mountains. Working with Mehrban, they formed a good team and he aslo carried and retrieved loads from Camp 2 on Gasherbrum II and on Gasherbrum I. Would probably work well in any team of HAPs, and could lead them too.

Mr Wolam Nabi - from Skardu

Widely known and respected by all the Baltis we met on the Baltoro, he has a pleasant and relaxed demeanor and we good at sorting problems. Despite his bulk he moved to Camp 1 very fast. I am not sure that he is a real summit HAP but is definitely useful to have on a larger expedition.

Ibrahim - from near Hushe

He was hoping to summit but didn't get the chance. He was quiet for much of the expedition but carried his share. It was only after carrying one last heavy load that the HAPs told me he was sick; quite sick, possibly with a bleeding ulcer was my guess. I hope he returns to full health; I think he will, and should continue climbing.

I wish all the crew, kitchen staff and HAPS, the best of luck and fortune for the future.