Heading out
The last of the expedition heads out to Skardu soon
1 Aug - Tia leaves
An expedition usually has a long start, the acclimatization process, the
building up section, ie stocking the mountain and then the climb. The last
section is getting out, often a time for reflection or at the least, relaxation.
Not everyone likes that though. Humphrey left a few days ago, just before we
arrived back in BC with the last of his gear.
Tia also isn't one to relax, and perhaps has another interest in Skardu too,
so she left today, preferring to trek alone out, carrying tent and meals. That
just leaves Søren, David, Mick and myself in BC, plus our crew.
1 Aug - BC life 5100m
Every so often someone reminds me, indirectly, that being expedition leader
is sometimes a stressful job. Mario Merelli has such a mellow voice, you can't
help but relax, and being the perfect host, he makes espresso whenever anyone
stops by, and pulls you into his world. Mario and his climbing partner Mario
Panzeri have all their camps neatly set up are waiting for good weather, they
have time. Some of the Hungarian team were drawn in too, and we ended up at
their camp drinking what isn't allowed in Pakistan till late (actually only
10:30!).
It is good to have mellow friends!
Mario Merelli, 8000m climber and gentleman - Jamie
2 Aug - BC waiting 5100m
Now we are all off the mountain and all our gear is down too (time to pay the
porter bonuses!).
Ali, the ATP manager here, just checked again and the porters are still due
tomorrow evening, even though it is snowing lightly but steadily outside at
dinner time. I have my doubts though, as most of them don't have sunglasses or
warm clothes; why - don't ask!
Here is a little of what we have to look forward to.
Ian's exit
Five of our team left earlier, Ian tells all
It's great to be back in Blighty [back in the UK] I have to say, (via Yummy's
ice cream joint of course) though maybe I do have a soft-spot for Camp 1!
I can't quite get my head around the fact that you're all still there [at
BC]! Our Amical crew on the way out were excellent, especially the cook. He was
only a young lad but he managed to knock up some really good nosh.
The 100km 'route-march' out was pretty brutal, (3 days, plus the 2hrs from
Korophon to Askole), especially the day between Goro II and Paiju. I felt like I
was on SAS Selection!
A final 2hr early morning stagger into Askole saw us jump into the jeeps for
what we thought would be a straightforward journey to Skardu - but of course we
should really have known better and accounted for the two flat tyres and broken
rear suspension along the way! We eventually rolled into Skardu some 10hrs
later!
And I would definitely push for a flight back to Skardu. We were basically
fobbed off by ATP (although Naiknak is very helpful) and we had to endure a
nightmarish bus journey back, whereas Field Touring and the Spaniards all flew
back - arriving the same day as us and looking fresh as daisies after their 50
minute flight!
[One of those teams were on their normal schedule; our five were heading out
early so no flights booked a month in advance]
If you do have to come back by bus then make sure you've got at least 15
copies of a list with all your names/passport no./visa # etc...on it. They like
their lists do the Pakistanis!
We all stayed at the Concordia Motel (after initially playing musical hotels)
which was more basic than the Mashabrum but is actually a more relaxing place -
and the food wasn't bad either.
On the KKH
Well, I'm not too sure what's the more scary - having avalanches crash down
around your ears, or constantly staring into the face of oblivion on the
Karakoram Highway! We arrived back in Islamabad late last night (Sunday) after
another white-knuckle ride down the KKH. Unfortunately I made the mistake of
deciding to sit at the front of our Toyota minibus, which is somewhat akin to
being at the front of a giant roller coaster - you always get the full
fright-factor first!
Initially it's just the prospect of plunging over the abyss that grips you,
and then later it's the sheer manic driving of everyone else that leaves you
silently stricken with horror. It therefore came as no great surprise when we
were forced into what turned out to be a 2hr magical mystery diversion into the
back-country when the main Highway was blocked due to an accident. In the event
it took 15hrs to reach the relative safety of the capital.
In Islamabad be warned, the staff at the Envoy Continental are particularly
useless, especially in the restaurant bit where they're mostly all new. Make
sure you check and double check things several times. The taxi drivers are also
hopeless (deliberately or otherwise) so make sure you don't get mugged up by
letting them take you anywhere via Rawalpindi or something. Oh, and one more
thing, if you want a beer then the American Steak and Grill is the place to go -
highly recommended!
Ian - Jamie |