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Heading out

The last of the expedition heads out to Skardu soon

1 Aug - Tia leaves

An expedition usually has a long start, the acclimatization process, the building up section, ie stocking the mountain and then the climb. The last section is getting out, often a time for reflection or at the least, relaxation. Not everyone likes that though. Humphrey left a few days ago, just before we arrived back in BC with the last of his gear.

Tia also isn't one to relax, and perhaps has another interest in Skardu too, so she left today, preferring to trek alone out, carrying tent and meals. That just leaves Søren, David, Mick and myself in BC, plus our crew.

1 Aug - BC life 5100m

Every so often someone reminds me, indirectly, that being expedition leader is sometimes a stressful job. Mario Merelli has such a mellow voice, you can't help but relax, and being the perfect host, he makes espresso whenever anyone stops by, and pulls you into his world. Mario and his climbing partner Mario Panzeri have all their camps neatly set up are waiting for good weather, they have time. Some of the Hungarian team were drawn in too, and we ended up at their camp drinking what isn't allowed in Pakistan till late (actually only 10:30!).

It is good to have mellow friends!

Mario Merelli, 8000m climber and gentleman - Jamie

2 Aug - BC waiting 5100m

Now we are all off the mountain and all our gear is down too (time to pay the porter bonuses!).

Ali, the ATP manager here, just checked again and the porters are still due tomorrow evening, even though it is snowing lightly but steadily outside at dinner time. I have my doubts though, as most of them don't have sunglasses or warm clothes; why - don't ask!

Here is a little of what we have to look forward to.

Ian's exit

Five of our team left earlier, Ian tells all


It's great to be back in Blighty [back in the UK] I have to say, (via Yummy's ice cream joint of course) though maybe I do have a soft-spot for Camp 1!

I can't quite get my head around the fact that you're all still there [at BC]! Our Amical crew on the way out were excellent, especially the cook. He was only a young lad but he managed to knock up some really good nosh.

The 100km 'route-march' out was pretty brutal, (3 days, plus the 2hrs from Korophon to Askole), especially the day between Goro II and Paiju. I felt like I was on SAS Selection!

A final 2hr early morning stagger into Askole saw us jump into the jeeps for what we thought would be a straightforward journey to Skardu - but of course we should really have known better and accounted for the two flat tyres and broken rear suspension along the way! We eventually rolled into Skardu some 10hrs later!

And I would definitely push for a flight back to Skardu. We were basically fobbed off by ATP (although Naiknak is very helpful) and we had to endure a nightmarish bus journey back, whereas Field Touring and the Spaniards all flew back - arriving the same day as us and looking fresh as daisies after their 50 minute flight!

[One of those teams were on their normal schedule; our five were heading out early so no flights booked a month in advance]

If you do have to come back by bus then make sure you've got at least 15 copies of a list with all your names/passport no./visa # etc...on it. They like their lists do the Pakistanis!

We all stayed at the Concordia Motel (after initially playing musical hotels) which was more basic than the Mashabrum but is actually a more relaxing place - and the food wasn't bad either.

On the KKH

Well, I'm not too sure what's the more scary - having avalanches crash down around your ears, or constantly staring into the face of oblivion on the Karakoram Highway! We arrived back in Islamabad late last night (Sunday) after another white-knuckle ride down the KKH. Unfortunately I made the mistake of deciding to sit at the front of our Toyota minibus, which is somewhat akin to being at the front of a giant roller coaster - you always get the full fright-factor first!

Initially it's just the prospect of plunging over the abyss that grips you, and then later it's the sheer manic driving of everyone else that leaves you silently stricken with horror. It therefore came as no great surprise when we were forced into what turned out to be a 2hr magical mystery diversion into the back-country when the main Highway was blocked due to an accident. In the event it took 15hrs to reach the relative safety of the capital.

In Islamabad be warned, the staff at the Envoy Continental are particularly useless, especially in the restaurant bit where they're mostly all new. Make sure you check and double check things several times. The taxi drivers are also hopeless (deliberately or otherwise) so make sure you don't get mugged up by letting them take you anywhere via Rawalpindi or something. Oh, and one more thing, if you want a beer then the American Steak and Grill is the place to go - highly recommended!

Ian - Jamie

The salad turns interesting - Jamie

Last dispatch for a while

It is likely that this is the last dispatch until we get to Islamabad, ie until around 11 Aug.

Catch you then? Jamie

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