Summit push?

We are splitting into two teams; one summit push is on.

Security

Pakistan has been in the international headlines. We are completely unaffected by what has happened in Islamabad. We have been welcomed everywhere, and anyone who knows Northern Pakistan will tell you that as a guest you are treated honorably; it is an amazingly friendly and hospitable country. That means, especially where we are, we will never has any security concerns. Please read "Three Cups of Tea"...

16 July

To date Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Nanga Parbat have been summitted in the last week. Gasherbrum II and K2 are still waiting.

Today we discussed the weather and our options. Essentially this season is not going to be kind with a large, obvious, easy summit window - or at least at this stage it seems this way. Also with one bag of gear missing, and everyone having already spent 7 nights on the mountain, resources are slightly limited. So we are going to take a two-pronged strategy, one team heading up tomorrow early morning with the intention of summitting in a less than perfect window, and the other team going up to acclimatize a day or two later and aiming for the next (hopefully good) summit window.

This is the first time I have tried to split a climbing group into two starting from BC, and not normally the approach I would take, but this mountain is presenting more challenges than most. (And to cap it all, our email system has been switched to a newer system but at the moment is less than perfect, a "fail" to web.com.)

It looks as if we had it right on our last long acclimatization trip, if we could have waited another day or two up at Camp 1; however the porters needed to come down to restock, and at least some of the team did as well. The consolation is we are not yet missing a perfect window.

17 July - 1st team up to Camp 1 5900m

Finally we received a comprehensive weather forecast from Michael Fagin that takes into allowance possible computer model flaws and the bigger picture. This is a relief from the more exact charts that change often substantially every 24 hours or so. Thanks, Michael!

Also thanks to Miri who is sending us copies of the three day forecast, and to Duncan of DCXP Mountain Journeys for previous forecast assessments.

The first team was due to set off this morning but awoke to some light snow, and Tia wasn't feeling 100%. So they didn't leave. Once we discussed the forecasts and possibility in detail it still looked best to leave, so Ian, Soren and Kees set off with Merhban and Jahan Beg in support. Luckily the weather is partly cloudy with some wind gusts, so not too hot.

My current thinking is that while the current weather system isn't perfect for summitting, other teams will summit and it certainly is a real opportunity with high potential; probably rather cloudy though. I( Jamie) would like to be going with them, but will stay behind one more day to arrange logistics.

The plan is the rest of the team will head up tomorrow for some sort of acclimatization program over three days, probably as far as Camp 2. Then after a few days rest head up with good timing for then next fine weather spell.

18 July - up to Camp 1

The rest of the team are heading up today, probably for three nights so as to sleep at Camp 2, and then back to BC, then wait for a good summit window.

Jahan Beg and Mehrban, heading up to support the first summit attempt.
Our Pakistan High Altitude Porters have been helpful and supportive, and really acted as a team,
unusual compared with many of the teams who have less co-operative Pakistan support staff.
- Jamie