Gasherbrum II rescue credits

Now I have a clearer picture of where credit is due for the rescue of Hirotaka Takeuchi.
Hiro has climbed nine 8000m peaks, starting with Everest and K2 in 1996.
Note, the avalanche hit the Amical team, not our team.

20 July - Hiro is helicoptered out

It was with great relief and some tears that we watched Hiro being airlifted out from Camp 1. It had been an agonizing 42 hours, both for Hiro, and the people rescuing him.

18 July - avalanche

Climbing up to Camp 3, perhaps half way from Camp 2, the avalanche happened when Dirk, the Amical guide, was pulling fixed lines out of deep snow for his team following, and this triggered the slab avalanche - apparently. Three of the four climbers caught stopped only around 200m from the upper Camp 2, luckily at the same level. Michi Nellen, leader of the Kobler & Partner expedition, and Merhban and Jahan Beg (Project Himalaya high altitude porters) immediately grabbed shovels and "ran" along, over crevasses and pulled out Hiro, whose torso and head was covered by around half a meter of snow and would have suffocated quickly if he hadn't been rescued. Others soon roped up and headed over. One other person was pulled out with a dislocated hip, and Dirk was mostly on the surface, just an arm stuck in the snow. The fourth person apparently slid further down. Phil Crampton and two Italians climbing up but below lower Camp 2, dug themselves into the slope, watched helplessly as someone careened over them, to land in a bowl that filled with debris. They think they saw a person, but were not 100% sure. Phil down-climbed and tried to search the area, directed by Ryan and found a sleeping bag and jacket before he was persuaded the region he was standing in was still dangerous, and very deep in debris (and the next day a serac collapse filled it with more debris).

It was the Swiss Kobler & Partner team of Guide Michi Nellen, the team doctor, Walo, and climber clients who came in for huge praise from everyone there; they supported from start to finish, handling the emergency with professionalism.

The Swiss Doctor, Walo, who was completely equipped - Jamie

First the injured were moved from the danger zone, then moved from the upper Camp 2 to the lower Camp 2, hoping for a helicopter rescue, and this was carried out by many teams, including high altitude porters. Amical had one bottle of oxygen available and Walo had a huge medical kit there. Despite intensive treatment, one of the climbers pulled from the avalanche died at lower Camp 2.

Later Ryan Waters at Camp 2 communicated with Dave Elmore (RMI guides) at Base Camp and acted as go-betweens with the liaison officer who arranged the heli rescue with the Pakistan Army. FTA provided a very useful Skedco plastic stretcher.

The Camp 2 heli pad site - Soren Gudmann

Everyone really hoped that the heli rescue on the 18th of July would work, and the Pakistan Army pilots circled and tried for an hour or more, giving up only at 7pm when they would be flying into the evening on the return journey. It was a shame that rescue didn't work. Probably the air temperature was too high; cold air is denser, therefore more lift?

Helmut from the private German team dropped from C2 to C1 thru the still fresh debris and climbed back up to Camp 2 so that Hiro had oxygen for the night.

19 July - despair

The thought of having to be lowered to Camp 1 probably absolutely horrified Hiro, as much as it did everyone else. He obviously had internal injuries that while he had stabilized a little, still needed oxygen and was is horrible pain when moved, even on strong drugs. The rescue team persevered and did get him to the flat area before Camp 1, where they hoped it was possible to land a helicopter. It was a long and hot wait in the fierce sun, under two small shades, until finally they were told there would be no rescue that evening.

Therefore Hiro was moved to Camp 1 proper, with every jolt in intense pain. Other teams also partly cared for him there, and oxygen was provided by the Japanese and one other team.

The German climber who died was buried in the afternoon, amid many tears, as he was lowered into a crevasse. It was very sad; however also a courageous decision by the family not to risk more lives in the moving of a dead body.

Ryan waiting in vain for the helicopter - Jamie

Ryan elated just after the chopper had lifted off - Jamie

19 July

Dirk in despair; Gasherbrum II in his goggles - Jamie

jdesign -- all rights reserved --  2008