Camp 1 waiting

We were on a possible summit push, but are back in BC now

11 July - up to Camp 1 5900m

Our Pakistani high altitude porters set off early for their round trip, carrying a large load of food and my base camp tent, since I am still missing a load or two. We set of later and while it was cool in the morning, it did heat up once the sun hit.

A section of the once flat but crevassed glacier collapsed, obviously rather hollow underneath.
The trail used to be in the center of the picture, part of it is still visible, and to where I took the photo.
Nobody was there when it collapsed - Jamie

13 July - Camp 1 thoughts

Yes, well, probably the greatest danger we Karakoram "mountaineers" face at the moment is bedsores, with a nod to author HW Tilman. We are at Camp 1 (~5900m) waiting for our fourth night, while it snows gently outside.

I have just finished reading "Three Cups of Tea", about Greg Mortenson's dedication to Pakistan's Northern Areas, especially girls' education. I used rather more precious toilet paper than I would care to admit. I absolutely recommend the book, and his purpose. The pride so apparent in the communities also shines thru in the Balti faces of the porters that helped us up to Base Camp (see the dispatches). (Thanks, Ornella the trekker, for the book!)

Several teams originally planning summit pushes have returned frustrated from Camp 2 to Camp 1 today (the 14th) , wading thru perhaps 25cms of fresh snow, although many people say it has snowed more. We will play it safe and wait for the snow to settle before assessing what to do - that is, if it stops soon!

For us, a commercial team, it is definitely a 4 camp mountain, and we need reasonable conditions to give everyone a chance, and to minimize potential problems. The issue is with three day summit windows, it is better to be in Camp 1 ready to head on up, rather than another day away in base camp, and so another day for acclimatization also usually needed.

When it isn’t snowing the other danger is heat exhaustion; I had forgotten just how hot climbing the glaciers here can be. Survival blankets have a survival use - shielding tents. Climbing here is a combination of early (midnight-4am) starts and waiting out the hottest part of the day, and hoping for safe snow conditions.

Ian - Jamie

Adrian - Jamie

Kees - Jamie

Soren - Jamie

Tents with hats on; it is HOT there - Jamie

15 July - back to BC 5100m

It was still snowing in the morning so we headed down to BC. I thought that it would fine up, with one forecast saying that it would clear on the 16th, another saying only on the 17th, but the high altitude porters had had enough and there was no way they were going to stay, regardless of whether we did or not. So that meant only a small summit team was possible, if we carried supplies from C2 to C3 and C4 - which was quite possible. However, Soren, who was 'stuck' at C2 came down and so everyone decided base camp had more appeal!

Coming down, it was snowing, sometimes heavily and many of the smaller crevasses were covered. The skies cleared slightly in the afternoon.

16 July - BC 5100m

It did, of course, dawn fine. There is scattered cloud around, and it does almost look as if it will snow - but it probably won't. Most teams have less time than us, so many people have or are heading up for summit attempts. We will rest a day or two first, then assess the weather so that we aren't waiting around.

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