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Trek out IIWe power it out and miss the floods. The trek outIt is amazing that we got porters at all for the trek out, it was harvest time in Shigar (where many of the porters come from) and the major Shia festival of the year. This is where devotees pierce themselves and parade around, showing their dedication to Allah. Combine this with bad weather (which, luckily, despite their thin clothing, doesn't seem to bother them) and a jeep breakdown, and our porters arrived only a day late. The fact that there were not enough to carry the tables and chairs didn't matter in the least. We barely had time to sit down anyway! 5 Aug - trek Goro IWe were hoping for a more leisurely walk out than the "SAS" mission that Ian and team had, however in the event the porters only turned up on the afternoon of the 4th, tired from walking from Urdukas that day. So we set out in light snow, and managed Goro I, further than Goro II, so that the next day would be less long. 6 Aug - PaiyuWe made good time and even so the last set of small ups and downs that crosses numerous gullies was still hell, luck that we made Goro I yesterday. We met Roland from The Mountain Company on the trail. Mick was on expedition with him in 2004, and I met them both on Broad Peak then. 7 Aug - KorofonBy now we were getting into the pace, and this was not such a long day. I was surprised that the camping place was rather full with at least three other groups there, mostly trekking teams. 8 Aug - trek to Askhole then to SkarduAfter a couple of hours on the trail in the morning we arrived at Skardu. Our porters, despite the tough walk with 25kgs each, didn't plan to stay, instead immediately trek part of the way up again for more work. Amazing stamina!
The rivers, even this small one, are savage, and awe-inspiring - Jamie
The porters reaching Askhole, the road.
The jeep drive is a rollercoaster ride on a narrow road with a raging river beside - Jamie Once in Skardu, no rest for the wicked, with some rushing around, tracking gear and trying to sort details out. 9 Aug - Fly?We hoped to fly but alas the weather was bad for flying around Nanga Parbat, at least that was PIA's excuse. The flights to Pakistan's Northern areas are always unreliable, mainly because they are subsidized and with fares artificially cheap, there is a huge demand, after all a one hour flight or two days by bus? But the airline loses money so has no incentive to run reliably. The joys of an unresponsive bureaucracy. Across the border Jet Airways has proved that is no barrier, and their Delhi to Leh flight at more than twice the price runs twice a day with a 737 and I am sure turns them a very good profit. So we hopped in a good Toyota Hiace for the drive. The Indus and the gorges can only be marvelled at, marvelled for the 8-9 hour drive. Chilas is not chilled, instead an oven but the meat for dinner was good. PIA's international service for climbers is much better with a 30 or even 50kg baggage allowance if your PNR number (on the ticket) is given to your trekking company in Islamabad. 10 Aug - arrive IslamabadThere is no getting around the fact that is one windy road, with spectacular drop offs, and later dangerous traffic. We arrived at last but cold beers were elusive. Luckily we all escaped Islamabad quickly. The day after I left nearly 4 inches of rain (actually 86 mm) fell in just over an hour! For my overnight stay in Karachi it didn't rain, and the large scale flooding drained off, but returned with vengeance the day I left. As I write this though, it is now raining in Kathmandu... 12 Aug - postscriptFinally a team of Swiss guides plus Mike Horn climbed GII on a route variation, deeming the normal route too dangerous. In fact they planned a fast summit push like on GI (30 hours from BC?) but difficult snow conditions meant it took them 3 days instead. The Marios, hoping for GI gave up after watching 3 avalanches on the route they were on happen while climbing for a few hours. |
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