Paul summits!

Paul and Namgyal summitted Mt Everest 4 June 2005,
their second attempt

We finish the expedition safely

1 June - first attempt failed

Paul, Namgyal and Jamie set off around 1:30am in strong winds. They got stronger as we climbed and we turned back at around 8500m (base of the First Step) at 4:30am rather than get frostbite.

Horribly windy and also snowing, we turned around at the First Step.
See the "Nearly summit" dispatch. Photo by Paul Boslooper.

Back at our 8300m camp Paul took several hours and some oxygen to decide to have another summit attempt. Jamie descended to North Col via Sukhi at 7700m, Paul and Namgyal stayed at 7700m with Sukhi.

2 June - 7800m

Abandoning the 7700m tent and Sukhi, Paul and Namgyal quickly climbed back up to Tshering's tent at 7800m, one of the few that looked OK at Camp 2. It was small and well-pitched, also very well stocked.

Dawa and Temba climbed up to clear the 7700m camp and brought Sukhi down, having to short-rope her, front and back because she was weak. She could only make it back to North Col.

Squatters leaving Tshering's tent, by Paul Boslooper

3 June - back to 8300m

Sukhi finally made it back to ABC, arriving around lunchtime and physically so tired that she could not speak for nearly an hour. She was absolutely finished but now safe.

Sukhi back at ABC, lips dry and swollen, nose and face peeling, and utterly exhausted, but OK.

4 June - summit! and to ABC

Paul and Namgyal set off around 2am, summitting around 9am, Nepali Time.

The Second Step, with the old and new ladders, Paul Boslooper's classic shot.

The climbers are just above the Third Step on the snow slope, still having to swing sharp right around the rock. The true summit isn't visible. Photo by Paul Boslooper.

9am, Paul on top! (Self portrait).

Namgyal on top! With the Nepal flag. By Paul Boslooper.

Paul says "Thanks, ISA Sport!"

Paul and Namgyal pushed down to ABC after the summit!

For Julian and myself it was an interesting early morning; Dan and Greg arrived at ABC at around 11pm not in the best of shape. We spent several hours with them, which was much appreciated, and they gave a wonderful present in return. THANKS!

Sukhi set off before sunrise for BC (making BC in surprisingly good time), the rest of us beginning once Paul and Namgyal had summitted. The last radio contact I had was with them at the 8300m, where they were feeling good, and ready to head further down. We were worried about leaving them without any real support, but knew they would be OK - and they were. Thanks Di and Jake for putting them up for the night.

The visa shared between Moe, Julian and myself expired on 5 June so Sanduk arranged a jeep in the late afternoon and we (plus Duncan, on his own visa) drove to Tingri on the 4wd track.

Sukhi and sherpas shared a visa so waited at BC for the second Landcruiser and truck.

5 June

In a marathon effort, Paul and Namgyal trekked to BC.

Moe, Julian, myself and Duncan made it to BK's chips, first stop!

6 June

Paul and Namgyal arrived a day earlier than planned in Kathmandu, the crew and Sukhi arrived separately.

7 June - Moe and Sukhi leave Kathmandu

If that wasn't a major monsoon deluge in the morning, what was it?

Sukhi left early without saying goodbye to anyone in Kathmandu. "Little" Moe left on the Thai flight.

8 June - Julian leaves Kathmandu

Julian left this morning, clearly happy - happy with everything.