Summit push!

The weather is looking better

Duncan, Julian, Sukhi, Da'Oangchu and Dawa head up; Paul returns

27 May - the summit push begins

After much debate, using free weather forecasts, our paid forecast and just plain looking outside, we came the the conclusion that the weather will probably be better than the forecasts predict and if it isn't, conditions are already better than the 21 May summit window. Now it is much warmer, so much less chance of frostbite, and it is obvious here that the weather system is in a state of change, there are clouds moving in three directions around ABC!

As Duncan pointed out our team is in an amazing position, we have grown by a member; we have nobody sick, in fact everyone is healthy, all the Sherpas are too, we haven't lost any members, and this after two months of expedition. We have coped with replacing all our UK Summit Oxygen systems with Poisk (the Russian system) as it seems the UK systems are having major problems very high on the mountain. So we have done well so far. Now we just have to get to the summit. From the outset I am hopeful that we can get at least four of the six climbers up, and I am really hoping five. If we get six up it will be a miracle. But at least everyone has had their chance.

See Duncan's site and Explorers Web for more discussion.

Sukhi leaving at 9:45 for the North Col

Duncan and Julian, after showing respect to the mountain at our chorten begin the trek thru camp to the North Col after lunch

The plan

Sukhi will stay at North Col tonight, head to 7770m tomorrow with Dawa and Da'Oangchu, then 8300m the next day ready to summit on the 30th of May.

Julian and Duncan are staying at the North Col tonight, and tomorrow, then will move up to 7900m (not 7700m) and from there make a summit bid on the 30th as well. They will be spending less time up high because they can move fast, and all the oxygen etc is in place for them.

We originally checked around and it seemed very few climbers would be going for the summit on the 30th; however I think that once a few teams realised how few, they changed their plans! The Indian Air Force is heading up, half of our team, the KE leaders (some), The last couple of Monterosa survivors and half of the Russian-7 Summits team. Several teams are breaking into two teams.

27 May - Paul back to ABC

Paul spent last night at the North Col, planning to spend a second night there, then 7700m, 8300m, then also summit on the 30th. However with several weather forecasts at his fingertips there he decided to return to ABC for a later summit push, probably aiming to summit 1st June, the same as Namgyal, Jamie and Moe.

This also nicely balances our team out.

So, we have a plan, an adaptable one, lets see how everything goes!

History

Karma from Bhutan summitted Chomolungma on 21 May as part of the Arun group, but not part of the Seattle boys. He became the first Bhutanese to summit and will become famous in his own country. I admire Karma, he showed immense strength especially as he is most definitely not a real mountaineer. He had considerable drama up there - should write a book - and was most definitely very lucky, however you look at it.