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Everest 2005

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to ABC

at ABC

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North Col loads

North Col 2

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North Col aborted

Paul joins us

All OK at ABC

Back to BC

Paul joins us

Paul and Namgyal join us after climbing Lhakpa Ri

We do a North Col carry and also say goodbye to Alberto and Elizabet

30 April - North Col carry

We woke to less wind, high cloud coming over and it looking like it was going to snow. We set off before 8am and had great weather for load-carrying, no wind and little sun.

Dawa, old hand at the south side ladders, which have up to nine ladders tied together, crosses two ladders tied just before North Col

 This was Julian's first trip to the North Col and, together with Jamie, Dawa, Temba and Da'Oangchu, and all carrying loads, we made it is a very respectable 3.5 hours up, 5.25 hours return trip. Julian was feeling good. He is fully recovered from the tooth episode.

At North Col 3 tents had been blown away, including the Brazilian couple's shown, which had two extra tents and supplies inside. Apparently a whirlwind sucked it away, dropping their gear onto the mountain hardwear tents to the right.


In the afternoon we still had the energy to organize supplies and:

Julian shaves every few days, and Sukhi puts cream on her slightly sunburned face.

Alberto and Elizabet arrive

This Spanish couple who previously trekked with Kim (Project Himalaya) arrived today on their Tibet ABC trek, swapping peace and tranquility for an insight in to expedition life, for a day.

About to leave, on 1 May


Paul is a director of the above company and had a team of 15 for an ambitious Nepal-side and Tibet-side journey. Lhakpa Ri was the high point literally:

Approaching the summit of Lhakpa Ri; not a great view of Everest, unfortunately

1 May - Paul and Namgyal arrive at ABC

Paul's group headed down, he headed up a short way to join us. He has been working hard for more than a month and is looking forward to a few days relaxation at ABC.

Today we sorted the Summit oxygen, having trouble with fitting the pulse-dose meter on the tanks; they do go on, but not always easily, annoying in such a high-priced system. We discussed various strategies but most involve only one tank for a summit push and so this fitting shouldn't be a problem. Paul, Julian and Moe are using the Summit Oxygen system; Sukhi and the sherpas are using Poisk, and Jamie is in the middle.

We also have radios charged and gear sorted.

Tomorrow we will have an early puja for Paul, Namgyal, Temba and Julian, then Julian and Jamie and the sherpas will head up to North Col. The plan is, weather depending, Jamie and Julian will stay at North Col two nights, then probably at Camp 2, around 7600m. The sherpas will carry a load to North Col, then rest, and then come up with Jamie and Julian to fix Camp 2.

We will not be sending dispatches for at least three days. The weather forecast is for low winds and only minor amounts of snow, please don't worry!!!

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© Jamie McGuinness - Project-Himalaya.com -  2005