Detailed itinerary
We plan to follow the itinerary however roads wash out, or are extended, occasionally people get sick, logistical challenges arise, or we hear of a better campsite, and so we will adapt it as needed.
** This detailed itinerary is a work in progress. **
(Day 0 - arrive Delhi / early Leh arrival)
We spend three nights in Leh, so reasonable acclimatization to the
3480m/11,415ft altitude and our first night trekking is a at a similar altitude too, prior to sleeping higher.
Included in all our Ladakh trips are a couple of sightseeing trips, with or
without a cultural guide (your choice) and it is your choice of where to go;
many people joining us are previous trekkers so have seen some places previously.
If you are more ambitious we can also arrange a day or overnight trip
to Alchi (~3100m), Likir and Basgo Gompas or further afield Lamayuru (~3500m), a day rafting trip on the Zanskar River or hammer down the Khardung La on a mountain bike (best a few days into your Leh
sojourn). If you have several days, we recommend a Nubra jeep safari or overnighting at Panggong Lake. The cost for all of these adventures are reasonable, and paid directly to the drivers in Leh.
If you have been working flat out you are welcome to just relax, kick back and de-stress too.
Sophie admires a mural at Basgo - Jamie
Day 1 - meet in Leh 3480m
Phew, after a long series of flights, you are here! Look for a Project Himalaya sign or a simple sign with your
name on it at the airport, and our wonderful drivers Lobsang or Ang Chuk will pick you up.
Jamie meets you at the hotel on your arrival and we discuss altitude health (and the time zone change for North Americans) over
tea/coffee or breakfast then introduce Leh and show you the better places
to eat. Most people crash out for a few hours and spend the day relaxing and recovering. Do drink
plenty of fluids, which helps the acclimatization process, and do also pop some multi-vitamins to help in a small way to ward off colds from the plane or being rundown from the travel.
We normally go out to
dinner together so let's meet in the peaceful hotel garden by 6:30pm; arrive earlier to soak in the view. We eat at some of our favourite clean (very important!) restaurants: Chopsticks, Bon Appetit and Tibet Kitchen.
Day 2 & 3 - Leh 3480m
These are days for experiencing the revered gompas, monasteries and palaces of the Indus Valley, ie a short drive from Leh. We arrange a jeep or two (and a local
culture guide if you like, included). Usually, we arrange as a morning trip with a late lunch out of Leh then
you can relax in the afternoon although we can easily arrange a full day trip as an alternative.
Choosing what to see is the biggest
challenge, there are so many special places to visit. Close by are Spituk Gompa and Stok Palace. To the east is Shey Palace, and the gompas Thikse, Hemis, Chemde, Thagthok, Stakna and Matho, although don't plan on visiting all of them in one day. Thikse also has a good restaurant for lunch.
Heading west out of Leh are Spituk, Phyang, Nyemo where the Indus meets the Zanskar River, and further afield are Basgo, Likir and Alchi.
We also go on a walking experience around Leh, often lead by Esther.
Visiting a gompa is atmospheric and a timeless experience engendering respect for their philosophy.
By chance on a sightseeing trip to Matho we watched this ceremony - Jamie
Day 4 - drive Skyu 3300m, trek Harmochen 3480m 13.5km
Time to stretch the legs, we pack for some hot weather trekking today with a hat, sunscreen, snacks and plenty of water.
After breakfast, we drive an hour or so to delightful, historic Alchi, the oldest intact gompa in the region. After an early lunch, we drive to Chiling and across the new road bridge to Skyu, where our crew are waiting for us. We trek for a couple of hours to our camp where there is shade and a wonderful afternoon tea awaits. We introduce our crew and the camp, and your tent; your home for the following 10 or so days. In the warmth, we usually eat dinner and breakfast outside for tonight and the next couple of days.
Afternoon tea is ready! And a handwashing set up - Jamie
Day 5 - trek Markha 3700m 14km
The walking is straightforward, mostly just above the valley floor but it can be quite a hot walk, do drink plenty today. There are several crystal clear water springs along the way where we can top up, not needing to filter the water.
We pass the remains of old hermitage caves high on the opposite cliffs. Inside are the remains of tiny caves where lamas once sat in meditation,
platforms carved in rock. Look also at the chortens - inside are piles of tiny 'tsatsas', the remains of ashes of the departed formed into tiny clay figurines.
As the valley widens we spot the old fort on
the hill above Markha village. Long ago invaders from what is now Pakistan coveted the high grazing and livestock of Nyimaling, thus the need for the fortifications all along the Markha valley.
Sometimes we camp by the school, sometimes 10 minutes before the actual village, in a spot that also suitable for the horses.
After afternoon tea do wander up to the local gompa, the view is satisfying while inside is dark and chang-smelling. Look, and look
again, the more you look, the more you will see.
Markha village - Jamie
Day 6 - trek Hangkar 4000m 14km
This is another day of ambling along the trails used by countless shepherds
and traders over the centuries, passing impressive cliffs, where blue sheep frolic An imposing rock spire to the right marks the entrance to the valley leading to the Rabrang La, which we explored on our wildlife trek in 2017, and is also the Jumlam route to Zanskar. Legend says that the Dogra army that conquered Ladakh in the early 19th century was led this way to their prize, the Indus valley and Leh, by a renegade Zanskari.
Around the next bend is the spectacularly set hilltop monastery of Tetsa/Tacha, well worth the climbing detour, providing we are moving well. We might lunch in front of the impressively sited centuries old crumbling fort above or shade in Hankar village, the last village of the valley.
Esther crossing the steam above Markha - Jamie
Day 7-8 trek Langtang Chen 4300m/4400m
Blue sheep horns and skull en route to the Konka Nongpo - Jamie
** This itinerary is a work in progress from this point. **
9 - trek Hidden Camp 4785m via Konka Nongpo La 5080m
It is a grind up to the pass, with widening views as recompense. Cresting the pass, the views really open out to a huge panorama including the snow slopes of Kang Yatse II, popular with Indian climbers.
What a backdrop, near Nyimaling - Jamie
10 - trek Lhalung La BC 4982m / Konka Ri BC
With some ups and downs passing Kang Yatse Base Camp, we then drop to the long Nyimaling plain where villagers from the
Markha Valley graze their sheep in summer and make curd and cheese from the milk of their livestock. We pass through and camp a little higher up the valley and drink in the views.
11 - explore Lhalung BC 4982m
There is a choice of day trips with the most ambitous to the top of the Konmaru La.
Collecting fuel; the traditional lifestyle is still alive at Nyimaling - Jamie
12 - explore Lhalung BC 4982m
For our second day here, we head to the glacial lakes surrounded by mountains and glaciers - spectacular. Its also possible to climb up towards Reponi Mallai-Dzo Jongo Ri and some of the ridge shoulders nearby.
Pikaboo! A pika playing hide and seek - Jamie
13 - trek Chaksang La high camp 4970m via Lhalung La 5340m
There is plenty to explore from here, and the highlight is perhaps the glacial lakes near the head of the valley. Or relax and read. today.
Colours ... I love the contrasting reds and greens, fading into the distance
The view from the Lhalung La - Jamie
14 - trek Sumdo via Chaksang La 5200m
Day 14 - Konka Ri viewpoint 5700m
Perhaps this hill is best called baldy, as it is such a smooth dome. The ascent will involve a bit of puff, but the rewards are surprising and immense. We are surrounded by mountains near and far, and by far, I mean as far as 250km with K2 and other Karakoram peaks way in the distance!
Views across to some peaks - Jamie
15 - trek Lato, drive Leh
It is only a few hours drive to Leh where we deserve a cold beer and a celebratory
meal. Chopsticks, Tibet Kitchen or Bon Appetit?
Esther (with a bigger than usual backpack) descending the formidable gorge to Chokdo - Jamie
Day 16 - trip ends
You are free to take the morning flight to Delhi, or just enjoy more time in this central Asian town of yore.
Julley!
