Shishapangma Base Camp

BC merriment, life is good

9 Sept - arrive at BC

Rounding a bend, our colourful tent camp was lit up by the smiles of the sherpa crew, Tibetan crew and overland members. Arriving to a fully set up camp, lines of tents, dual kitchens, even the solar chargers set up and working, is a real luxury (that we usually enjoy).

It is good to be here, and while the Chinese meals have been fantastic (bar one), our climbers are showing their roots and love the mostly western BC food. The baking course Serke and Tawa just attended had immediate results, the best trekking cake we have ever had, Mark and Francis had three pieces each, even after a huge meal. There was none left for the crew.

Speaking of Mark and Francis, we met them here, and also Tristan and Paul, the first overland team. They made it to BC one day earlier than planned, on the 7th, due to the sherpa's logistical skills, managing to get our three truck loads of equipment across the border in a day, rather than the allowed two. Just in time too, it is rumored a landslide has blocked the road between Zhangmu and Nyalam, unsurprising given the amount of rain. Luckily the rain stopped as we arrived and now we have glorious fine days.

The border road is also being worked on, part of the build up to the Olympics and also to increase border trade, and so is closed during most of the day for blasting. The overland team waited and drove thru in the evening, arriving in Nyalam around 2:30am. The crew for the DCXP Lhakpa Ri expedition were not quite as lucky, and had to sleep in their Landcruiser, but did make it thru the next day just before the landslide fell.

Sunset on one of the many mountains visible from BC (this is not Shishapangma) - Jamie

10 Sept - the second overland team MIA?

Gordon has been labelled a mythical figure by all who don't believe the leader, and unlikely to turn up (fly Nepal Airlines and you might not!). So when Jamie announced that Gordon, along with Andrew and Julie, are probably delayed by the landslide, there were howls of "I told you so, he doesn't really exist". Fortunately I (Jamie) has warned Gordon and he is bringing alcohol and gifts to smooth over any shock the team might have.

While I am not a fan of large expeditions, and our two teams have separate dining tents, cooks and kitchen tents, BC life is social and fun, the more the merrier. And it is definitely merry with (bad) jokes, barbs, insults flying, and country rivalries. With England, Scotland and Ireland represented, it doesn't pay to lump them all together under "Great Britain", and with Kiwis, and Aussie and an indeterminate number of South Africans (Mark, plus two more born there), you have to be more accurate than Antipodean. Even though the Americans are each from different states, they are proving more patriotic. And nobody has objected to our George Bush insults.

11 Sept - obsessions

Never mind soothing comments from loved ones, it seems currently their main use (and we are talking several people, not just one), is to send the rugby world cup results. With Kiwis, an Aussie, an English, Scottish and Irish, even South Africans, there is plenty of interest and rivalry. Surprisingly the Americans are also in the world cup, probably soon be knocked out, but the difference is they don't seem to care.

Some of the Americans are having other issues with loved ones, one can't get their latest's email address right, and another hasn't yet received an email - perhaps unsurprising as they haven't sent one. I guess they are taking the holiday seriously.