Zanskar: a new cycle touring and trekking mecca?

Several decades ago the Zanskar trek, Darcha to Lamayuru, was the ultimate India trek but road building has eaten it away. Soon, though, these roads will link up offering new possibilites. By 2021/22? the new Manali-Zanskar-Kargil highway will become one of the most scenic and adventurous cycle touring and motorbike touring roads there is, with additional trekking advantages too. Exciting possibilities!

Sadly, now there must be a bulldozer track across the banner photo.
Updated May 2020.

Barely connected Zanskar

Reaching Zanskar takes time and is a rough journey. In 2019 Zanskar was two days drive from either Leh or Srinagar, which breaks down to a day on the main road to Kargil and then a rough day's driving on an unsealed road via stunning Rangdum and the Pensi La. Additionally, there is only one way in and out, no loop or through road. This lack of quick access or through access has prevented, some say protected, Zanskar from becoming a real adventure tourism destination, although for locals does allow fresh veg trucks and supplies in oer the Pensi La for four to five months of the year from Srinagar and Delhi 4WD tourers.

The old iconic trek route is now mostly road and only a few operators such as ourselves have updated our itineraries and our Zanskar Spring has been a staple classic of ours and see our 2021/22? Zanskar Canyons longer trek.

Undoubtedly a small (STOL) airport Lukla-style, if built 20 years ago, would have helped the region thrive on foreign tourism however India is not timely with infrastructure.

Now, though, there are two new long distance connecting roads in the works. These roads have come about from the tireless work of Stanzin Lakpa of of Zanskar Trek who managed to shortcut through the monstrous bureaucracy, a story in itself.

The approx route of the new highways, from Darcha to Padum and Zangla to Lamayuru

Connected Zanskar

Some trekkers and trekking companies are instinctively against roads, however, I am not. I feel there should be a goal to preserve major wilderness areas and wildlife corridors but unless wilderness trekking tourism is big business, road access is going to be far more beneficial to the locals, and it is their decision after all. In particular, opening a road from Manali to Zanskar will allow agricultural exports, and they want to emulate Lahaul which has become comparatively wealthy from potato exports.

2019: The Manali-Darcha to Zanskar over the Shingo La (5095m pass) is a work in progress with 4WD jeeps able to drive to the top of the pass however the track through to Kargyak and Purne is still very much in process, only ridden once by some intrepid Enfielders. This road is also going to be sealed to Indian highway status, which means it will become pleasant (or at least bearable) to drive but only perhaps in 2022?? Already with the incomplete road, it is a mountain-bike touring paradise, and once the road is complete, will undoubtedly become one of the very best touring bike routes, especially because there is likely to be little through traffic.

But where do you go once you reach Zanskar? Thankfully, the Padum-Rangdum-Pensi La-Kargil road is also due to be upgraded to a highway, ie tar sealed (at last) although by the end of 2019, only the section from Padum to Panikhar has some smoothness to show.

It is a majestically scenic journey, here is my 2013 album from our drive:

While a jeep safari from Padum to Kargil would be fun, ultimately fast access between Zanskar and Leh by an airport is what will bring tourists. The third road arm also in progress is Lamayuru to Zangla which is partly built, with only the monstrous canyon between Yelchung to Zangla to tackle, currently a bit ambitous to mountain-bike, and that has perhaps a four year timeline. Then with three quality feeder highways into Padum-Zanskar, the possibilities will be amazing.

There is more too; the Rohtang tunnel is now finished, after 25+ years, however only limited, mostly military vehicles are allowed so far. So a far smoother Manali-Darcha-Leh drive is still a dream.

In years to come, Zanskar really starts to look interesting as an adventure destination in its own right, although it will still be a beautiful day's drive from Leh.

The striking Lamayuru Gompa - Jamie

The amazing Darung Drang Glacier near the Pensi La on the Zanskar-Kargil road - Jamie

Trekking

At first thought, the road kills the Darcha-Lamayuru trek route. However, with quicker access road to the Zanskar area, short and sweet treks become the go. Logistically, this will be easier too, with locally based trekking crews working in small loops without expensive horse travel time between treks.

And then there is backpacking... Carrying two weeks of supplies is beyond most people, but four to six days? Ahhhh yes - and the scenery is stunning and varied, with the colourful and dry Zanskar range on one side, and the monumental glaciated Great Himalaya range on the other.

Flame rocks in Zanskar, close to where one of our trekkers, Filip, saw a snow leopard - Jamie

Thriving tourism

Tibet went from being a backwater province to a major tourism Chinese (ie domestic) destination with a staggering 5-15 million tourists a year (depending on how they are counted). India's part of the roof of the world is also a growing destination, popularized by Pangong Lake and the 2009 "3 Idiots" movie, but is only just getting started, and will probably never be that Tibet-busy, their situations are different, especially the road access. However, these Zanskar highways significantly increase the appeal and possibilities (and hopefully will spur some decent hotels in Padum!).

Zanskar memories

With a tear and many memories, I trekked across the Shingo La for one last time with a trek team in 2016. Thank goodness the under construction road was quiet and indeed the only jeep to drive to the top got stuck. Surprisingly, the necessary campsites were still intact.

2016 stuck: calling this a road is being generous, this section of the Shingo La needs concrete - Jamie

Our ever-adapting Zanskar Spring trek traverses remote, wild Zanskar and our favourite villages - join us!

Cycling touring

Currently the Darcha-Padum-Kargil route is only for the hardcore, with single track sections and unsealed, badly corrugated roads. There are basic dhabas (roadside restaurants) and homestays however camping is still required in a couple of spots. The tar sealing of the road will be the biggest, most pleasant development; I can't wait. Neither can the Enfield motorbike tourists.

In summary, the future for Zanskar is looking bright both for agriculture and appealing new tourism opportunities.