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Cho Oyu
Autumn 2004

the team

the beginning

Base Camp

trek to ABC

ABC Puja

Arnauld quits

Jamie summits

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Heading out


8000m history

Cho Oyu summit

Jamie McGuinness summits Cho Oyu for the fifth time

29 Sept - Camp 2

I fueled up on pasta with French pork salami, and rested.

30 Sept - Summit!

I woke up - well, barely slept - at 11:15pm and left at 0:15am or so, warm and fueled.

As I approached Camp 3 LED torches lit the tents, worth a picture that I didn't try. It was 2am exactly as I spoke with Olaf and his snowboard. There were 4 climbers moving slowly, I regretted not rudely passing them as they approached the rockband. Instead I snacked but still had to wait far too long for them to climb up, but had the satisfaction of passing them while they gasped. Near the summit plateau I passed a Scandinavian with skis, quite a load at 8000+m. On the edge of the plateau I hung my crampons on my axe, just going to the summit with a trekking pole.

I arrived alone at the summit prayer flags exactly on sunrise just before 6am (Nepali time). It was COLD, and the sun didn't burn thru the cloud. There was a gentle breeze.

Curious, I walked to the highest point, and just to make sure descended until I could see the Gokyo Lakes, only the "6 lakes" were visible, what series of photos. Climbing back up I was breathing hard and used the GPS (Garmin GPSmap 60CS) on the two highest bumps, with 12 satellites showing the GPS took 50 readings to make it more accurate still only 5 metre HORIZONTAL accuracy; both altitudes were 8203m, at the top of my head level..

Finally the Scandinavian arrived and we took a few photos of each other. I headed down before anyone else arrived, having spent around 40 minutes on the summit.

I arrived at the summit flags just as the sun rose

Cho Oyu throws a big shadow


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It was cold on the summit; me with a fleece mask on, Everest behind unseen

On the way down at camp 3 there was a Brazilian woman with at least 8 fingers frostbitten. I packed her gear up and got her down to Camp 2 and radioed for help. I stayed at Camp 1.

1 Oct - summit cake at ABC

the summitteers; Dawa (Da'Gelje), Andrew Lock and Jamie

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© Jamie McGuinness - Project-Himalaya.com -  2004