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Acclimatisation to Camp 2Perfect conditions finally Our acclimatisation goes well with limited tent spots 29 June - Lets taste this mountainThe Austrian guide team fixed the couloir route (below) to C0.5 because a couple of weeks ago the alternative easier route was dangerously loaded with snow ready to avalanche.
Interesting climbing, if you have a helmet
Mike takes the alternative route that doesn't yet have ropes - steep but no rockfall
We set up Camp Half (5350m) with two North Fake tents on a slight ridge. Denis and Pierre-O are skiing down from Camp 1 (just behind the ridge, but no tent space). The next day under a frying sun the slopes above repeatedly avalanched but none coming close to our camp. Now the slopes are safer, even in the hot afternoon. 30 June - to C1 and C2We left early morning while the slopes were still in shade, Mike (hit by an ice cube) dropped a load at C1, Amanda stayed at French C1 and Jamie carried tents and fuel so that Haruki, Malte and Karim could stay at our low C2 - ~6100m.
Pulling out of C0.5 (bottom left); K2 behind is far, far steeper in real life! |
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Taken at 6000m, imagine higher! |
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1 July - teams up and downOur C2 team, Karim, Haruki and Malte returned to BC while Amanda, Gordon, Olivier, Pierre-O and Denis replaced them at C2 and intending to climb higher tomorrow. Jamie continued fixing down from C0.5 on the safer route and returned to BC. The return was an adventure, Jamie stopped a falling Pakistani climber, Mike and Malte pulled a Kiwi woman from a fall in the stream, and Jamie fell in the same nasty stream when the rock bridge collapsed (below in the center of the river that the climber still hasn't stepped on.
Chilli is well again, ready for his first excursion on the mountain.
© Jamie McGuinness - Project-Himalaya.com - 2004 |
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