Kathmandu - the beginning

Kathmandu

Strikes, riots, delays - they didn't affect us, just some food poisoning.

Arrival by Warwick

Warwick arrived early and trekked the Everest region with his family.

Arriving in Kathmandu is a huge culture shock to first time Asia visitors. You become accustomed to the armed police and road blocks, but the traffic?

At the airport our transport vehicle was surrounded by irate car park workers as our driver had not tipped them for walking beside us to the car empty handed. This soon involved the police and after 10 minutes of heated debate we finally left. The short journey from the airport to the hotel by car was enough to convince us that L.A. drivers are courteous as it resembled dodgem a car ride, where jostling for a place is measured in millimeters. Being a predominantly Hindu nation, you are safer being a cow than a pedestrian. The continual noise, crowds, street venders and honking horns to warn of impending hit and run are enough to tarnish the joy of bargain hunting shopping for even the most rabid shop-a-holic. The chaotic traffic presents more health hazards than potential multi-trauma - the air is pungent and a few days in Kathmandu is a good way to get your trekkers cough off to an accelerated start. The food is always suspect, and a guide book recommendation is no guarantee that you will have an uninterrupted night.

Trekking was escape from Kathmandu. After 3 weeks of trekking lodges, the Kathmandu 3 star hotels are like a palace and a hot shower and flushing toilet the epitome of luxury. We were, however, unprepared and a little surprised to be asked for how much we wished to sell our daughter into marriage to the boot shiner's son. Welcome to Nepal.

Shopping for down gear in Kathmandu

Kathmandu

Many of the team arrived early in Kathmandu; Jamie didn't count on full Easter flights, but that gave plenty of time for getting sick and recovering. We ate at the best restaurants, Indian, Thai, pizza... great food but at this time of year the bugs are prolific.

Photo: the phoenix of death for Warwick, Chicken Kiev, that resulted in a night's food poisoning.

Thomas booked locally after the Annapurna Circuit and climbing instruction on Island Peak bringing our team to nine.

Sightseeing

Mountain-biking revealed the real Kathmandu Valley, only one spill, a wonderful day and a chance to stretch the legs.

We left Kathmandu via Bodhanath and Bhaktapur, below, for some traditional sightseeing.

Matriya Buddha, the coming Buddha, at Bodhanath

Wandering Bhaktapur, a pleasant afternoon

Background

Politically, Nepal is a mess, a Maoist insurgency, strikes and riots; sand bags with armed soldiers, burning tyres and road blocks greet travelers, all unsettling for what was considered a trekking Shangri La.

See the Trailblazer Guide book updates section for a more in depth discussion.

© Jamie McGuinness - Project-Himalaya.com -  2004