Jamie McGuinness

 

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Everest from Base Camp - Jamie McGuinness

Our trekkers say

I just wanted to follow up and say thank you to all who helped with our wonderful trip.  It is a life event that Carol and I am glad we had the opportunity to partake in.

Bo and Carol, Everest ABC 2011

 

When one books adventure trips to under developed parts of the world, its almost a given that things will not go to plan. Its just the nature of the places, organisation and individuals, which operators have to rely upon to make it all happen that often cause the problems.

I came on this trip as part of a magical mystery tour, having read Heinrich Harrer’s book Seven Years in Tibet at the age of fifteenth. A book that I found inspirational and introduced me to decades of enjoyment amongst the hills and mountains of the world.

So how did I find the trip ? In one word, fabulous! A trip where my expectations were exceeded beyond my wildest dreams. Congratulations to you all and to your colleagues and subcontractors. Oiled clockwork at its very best, extremely enjoyable company, superb and flexible organisation,  adapting to the needs of individuals. A trip where one could meet, touch and experience people of different and varied cultures. No way a journey as a inane gold fish, locked in a fur lined humvee, moving to an automatons time schedule.   Fabulous, expialidocious! Many thanks to you all and please if you require any references, which I am sure you do not, I am more than happy to help.

Hugh Chapman, Everest ABC 2012 (lead by Jo Chaffer)

Political warning

Tibet is a sensitive province of China and as such can be closed to foreigners without notice, and you must have insurance that covers this. We want you to have a holiday all the same and in the case of Tibet not opening by 8 April we will arrange for a trek on the south side, Nepal side of Everest and/or a trek around Manaslu or similar. For a trek to the Nepal side of Everest there is no minimum number but will be with a sherpa guide; there is a minimum of 4 for other trek alternatives. The trips will be priced according to standard rates for treks with a local leader (not just a sirdar), plus any Lhasa flight cancellation charges we suffer. I hope it won't come to this, but this is the backup plan...

Note that Tibet is normally closed during March.

Altitude warning

This is the world's highest trek; we go to extreme altitude. You must be fit and tough, we camp in difficult conditions. We recommend the use of the acclimatizing drug Diamox, which can be bought cheaply in Kathmandu. We will discuss its use carefully with you.

In short do NOT book this trek if you have not trekked previously on Nepal or Ladakh-Zanskar. The altitude is extreme but in many ways there are a lot of other treks that offer a better trekking experience.

Nepal Everest BC trek or Tibet Everest ABC?

These Everest treks are dramatically different in character - which his best for you?

The Nepal Everest trek is rightly known as one of the classic treks in the world, always in the trekker's top five. It is a better first timers trek, a good introduction to what trekking really is. The walking days are not particularly long and there are plenty of rests while hiking and also rest days so it is a nice balanced trek. The walking is on good trails, at first through forest and village areas, then in the huge wonderful alpine valleys surrounded by mountains. We stay in the cozy tea houses the region is famed for, and trek with a western leader and a team of porters to carry our gear. You just carry your needs for the day. As an example in a 24 day trip there are 19 days trekking (including rest-acclimatization days). The highest point you sleep at is approximately 5150m/17,000ft, and you hike to about 5600m/18,400ft.

Kim runs her fabulous Everest High Passes trek each year, and especially her photos there.

A Tibet Everest ABC trek is definitely more hardcore, suitable for altitude-experienced trekkers who want to extend themselves.

The Tibet Everest ABC trek is traveling for the first part, beginning with a flight to Lhasa to spend time in this historic city, then on to the second biggest city in Tibet, Shigatse. Continuing, we drive to Everest Base Camp at 5150m/16,900ft - yep, drive - and spend a few days acclimatizing here and at base camp. Then the real trekking begins, a total of 6 days trekking on a 22 day trip, STARTING from 5150m/17,000ft, hiking and sleeping as high as 6340m/21,000ft! It is a rough, stony and windy area surrounded by amazing mountains and ice fins you can literally touch, and the hiking is all over very rough ground, mostly loose rock on ice. You really do get very high and get a real sense of what the Everest expeditions are all about, but you do also on the Nepal side as both of our treks visit Everest base camp on the Nepal side...

On the balance we suggest that the Nepal trek is far more suitable for a first time visitor to the Himalaya.

Leader

We have changed this trip around a will run the trip regardless of how many bookings we get; we vary the leadership to account for the economies of scale...

Resources

Tibet Footprints Guide

Pilgrim's Guide to Tibet by Victor Chan

Trekking in Tibet by Gary McCue

The Tibet Guide - Central & Western Tibet by Stephen Batchelor

Mapping the Tibetan World by Atsushi Kanamaru

A Mountain in Tibet & The Search for Shangri La by Charles Allen

The Sacred Mountain by John Snelling

Circling the Sacred Mountain by Robert Thurman

The Way of the White Clouds by Lama Anagarika Govinda

In Exile From the Land of the Snows by John Avedon

Tibet, Tibet by Patrick French

Magic and Mystery in Tibet by Alexandra David-Neel

Sven Hedin - Many books

To see the detailed itinerary and more photos use a laptop/desktop browser or tablet in landscape (and hit refresh).

Detailed itinerary

Early arrival

Arriving early can be a great way to begin unwinding, we will arrange airport transfer (included) and hotel, no problem. In particular, we recommend arriving a day early and therefore having an extra night in Kathmandu as part of acclimatization preparation before flying to Lhasa.

Day 1 - arrive Kathmandu

You must arrive this day or earlier. You’ll be met at the airport, look for a Project Himalaya signboard with your name on it.

Your leader will meet you at the hotel and show you around Thamel, if you are not already familiar with it. Thamel is a mass of energy and chaos with a myriad banners, signs, pumping music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars and hotels. Normally we meet at Sam's bar over a drink before dinner.

We collect your passports ready for processing the Chinese visa tomorrow, and discuss how to acclimatize for Lhasa.

Day 2 - Kathmandu

Today we’ll explore the sights of Kathmandu and the valley with a good local guide. Many trekkers are already familiar with Kathmandu so we match the sightseeing itinerary to what people haven't seen before.

Day 3 - fly Kathmandu 1350m to Lhasa 3660m

We check in early for the for the hour long flight to Tibet. This spectacular flight, on a China Airlines Boeing takes us right across the main Himalayan range and provides us with magnificent mountain views. After landing at Gonggar Airport and meeting our Tibetan guide, it is 45 minutes more to Lhasa via the new tunnel. It's advisable to rest or take it easy for the remainder of the day due to Lhasa's altitude.

Note that in the past the rough roads in Tibet necessitated travelling in Landcruisers, now with good roads we will travel in a good vehicle suitable for the group size. This could be Landcruisers, could be the surprisingly comfortable Ford Transit Van (which is faster than a Landcruiser) or another suitable vehicle.

Days 4, 5 and 6 - in Lhasa 3660m

Today will be spent visiting four of Lhasa's main sites, two each day, in the company of a guide-interpreter. The order is decided by the guide.

We visit Sera Monastery or Drepung Monastery, both are the best preserved monasteries in Tibet. Within their white-washed walls and golden roofs, several hundred monks live and study.

Norbulingka is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama, a quiet place of gardens and a pleasant house with impressive murals of Tibetan history and beliefs.

The Jokhang (temple) is the most sacred shrine in Tibet and on public days there is a procession of devout Tibetans through the complex. This is the real Tibet as it was and is usually a highlight of the trip. Surrounding the Jokhang is the Barkor - a maze of narrow cobbled streets which is the central market of Lhasa and since our hotel is close to this you can wander around any time.

The Potala is the icon of Tibet, with its eighth wonder architecture, and dominates the city of Lhasa. A spectacular building, it contains the private quarters of the Dalai Lama as well as numerous grand state rooms and many important chapels. There has been a palace on this site since the 5th or 6th century, but the present palace was constructed in the 17th century.

It is also extremely busy. Once past the ticket office and thru the main courtyard, from that point you might only be allowed one hour for the interior, you guide will explain the latest rules. You do have plenty of time prior to the point, however.

Day 7 - drive Shigatse 3900m ~250 km

We drive to Shigatse, arriving in time for a late lunch. Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet and Tashilhunpo Monastary is the seat of the Panchen Lama, often considered the second most important Rinpoche after the Dalai Lama. Tashilhunpo Monastery is one of the largest functioning monasteries in Tibet and there is much to explore within its high surrounding walls.

Day 8 - drive Shegar 4350m ~244km

We continue along the Friendship Highway. Beyond the small town of Lhatse we cross the highest pass on our journey, the Gyamtso La, 5220m. From here we descend to some of the most spectacular panoramas of the drive.

During the 1921 expedition a madman attacked their camp stoves here.

Day 9 - Shegar 4350m

This is a rest and acclimatization day. The best day trip is to walk or drive to the new town of Shegar and climb to the monastery and past that to the top of the fort.

Day 10 - drive Everest Base Camp 5150m ~76km

Shortly after leaving Shegar, we turn off the Friendship Highway and head south over the Pang La 5150m towards the main Himalayan range. The view from the top is incredible with uninterrupted views stretching from Makalu to Shishapangma, and including Everest. Below the pass, Everest initially is hidden from view, but as we turn the corner into the upper Rongbuk Valley it reappears, more impressive than ever.

Everest cruising

The Pang La and Everest center-right- Jamie

Days 11, 12 and 13 - Everest Base Camp 5150m

We rest here several days to acclimatize; it is important to be well acclimatized prior to trekking to Interim Camp. How often do you get a chance to sit and read and dine with the sheer north face of the highest mountain in the world towering above us. There are several possible day trips.

Day 14 - trek to Interim Camp 5760m

We begin in a dusty ablation valley with views of Pumori, Lingtren and even Nuptse then branch off up the East Rongbuk valley. The trail climbs moraine rubble. Nearby, the first ice seracs [ice pinnacles] rise like white sails from the dark debris-laden surface of the glacier.

Day 15 - Interim Camp 5760m

We spend a day here in the intermediate camp, resting to further acclimatize. This is another good chance to finish that book.

Anna on the trail

The trail is virtually always stony, but gets close to the ice (Anna and Philippe Gatta) - Jamie

Day 16 - trek to ABC 6340m

The Rongbuk Glacier is an impressive frozen ocean of ice waves; the views of the glacier and the Himalayan peaks are some of the most dramatic in Tibet. Along the middle moraine of the glacier is the trail that expeditions use to begin their climbs of Everest and this is the trail we are taking. About two hours above the Interim camp the central ridgeline leads in to a confused of ice at the confluence with the Changtse glacier, and this is Changtse Base Camp [5970m] which is sometimes called Camp 2; it was the 1920's and 1930's camp 2. The appropriately named Serac Highway continues to extend its unusual gravel arm trough the centre of the of the ice formations.

Rounding the corner, first Lhakpa Ri Base Camp comes into view, then eventually Everest ABC (The old "Camp 3"), and this last section is always tough.

Some water has spilled over the trail, we find a way around it - Jamie

Day 17 - ABC 6340m

A spare day, and if you do stay at ABC enjoy the expedition atmosphere!

Camp 3, the Advance Base Camp (ABC) for the North Col route up Everest, is situated within a group of flattened gravel mounds beside the glacier. The pinnacles, the frightening group of rock palisades that kept the Northeast Ridge unclimbed for so long, are just another 1500 metres up from camp 3. Most amazing of all is the ridge extending above the Pinnacles to the southwest: the striated rock summit of Everest. The top of this mountain appears phenomenally close; it is little more than 2400 metres higher than camp 3. This is the closest non-climbers can get to the top of Everest. With a pair of binoculars, you are almost there...

Day 18 - trek down to Base Camp

This is a LONG day's trekking down to Base Camp but to much lower, more comfortable altitudes.

Day 19 - drive Zhangmu 2400m

We normally take the rough, adventurous shortcut road to Tingri where we have lunch. Beyond Tingri are more views of Everest, Cho Oyu and other giants. Then we cross two high passes, the Lalung La (5124m) and the Shung La (5200m), rewarded with magnificent views, this time Menlungtse and Gauri Shankar, and to the right of the road is Shishapangma. Over the last pass we begin the long descent leaving the arid Tibetan Plateau into the magnificent gorge to Zhangmu.

Day 20 - drive Kathmandu

We switch vehicles and sides of the road as we cross from Tibet to Nepal. Once through immigration formalities we drive to Kathmandu which should take around 5 hours depending on road conditions. Then it's time to get cleaned up at the hotel, which has abundant hot water.

Day 21 - depart

Farewell. We take you to the airport for your flight home. We hope you had a fantastic trip, the journey of a lifetime.