Project Himalaya Nepal | Mustang and Lo Monthang trek

Mustang

Tucked away along the upper Kali Gandaki River, the deepest river gorge in the world, Mustang is a remote and starkly beautiful region of medieval villages, ancient cave hermitages, Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, arid, high desert, wild rock formations and soaring snow peaks. People have inhabited this harsh region for thousands of years, some of the early dwellers living or meditating in ancient caves, rich in Buddhist art, which pepper the bizarre rock formations. Mustang became part of the Yarlung Dynasty of central Tibet, later falling under the jurisdiction of the Malla Kingdom of Nepal (Jumla) and in the fifteenth century, the independent Kingdom of Lo was founded, ruling such other remote regions as Dolpo. It was only incorporated into the Kingdom of Nepal in 1951. Soon afterwards, renegade Khampa freedom fighters battling the Chinese used Mustang as a base of operations, and it was closed to all Westerners until 1992.

This mythical land north of the 8000 meter peaks Annapurna and Dhaulagiri still requires a special restricted area permit to enter, and numbers are limited, thus helping to preserve its unique heritage. We will have a 13-day permit, allowing us to trek to the remote eastern and western valleys, old salt trade routes with Tibet, above Lo Monthang. We also trek along the eastern, winter route from Lo to rarely visited Dhi village, Yara and Luri Gompa, as well as taking the less-trekked route to Tetang, also east of the Mustang Khola, to arrive at the sacred village of Muktinath via many picturesque villages in the lower reaches of Mustang.

Our other mountain guide, Lhakpa Dorji, is a Sherpa from the Everest region who has spent much time in the Tibetan Buddhist regions of Ladakh and Zanskar in India, the Tibetan border regions of Nepal as well as in Tibet itself, co-leading years of treks with Kim. He will give us further insight into the shared Tibetan Buddhist mountain culture, and search out bowls of salt-butter tea in the Mustangi households.

Detailed Itinerary

*Note that although we try to follow the itinerary below, at times local trail or weather conditions may make slight changes necessary. The trekking itinerary may also vary slightly depending on our trekkers' acclimatization rates.

Early Arrival

Providing you have sent us your arrival details, you will be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House (look for their sign - they will be looking for you) and escorted to the guest house. Kim will book the extra nights for you, so your room will be ready.

Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m

You'll be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House, so look out for a Kathmandu guest house sign when you leave the airport. They will bring you back to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms are booked.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the main tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner we check your insurance details (please have a copy of your travel medical insurance policy with you), go over gear and get to know each other over a beer at New Orleans cafe ...

Photo Kim Bannister

Day 2 - Kathmandu

Explore the Kathmandu valley a bit with Kim. Options: Climb the many steps to Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with its commanding views of Kathmandu (at 1420 m), its whitewashed stupas and its unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional gompas, and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, Boudhanath attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square, one of the old capitals of the Kathmandu valley, is a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist temples, stupas and statues, and is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath and its sacred temple complex on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating - when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees.

We'll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to do this, and in the evening will head out for dinner of wood-oven pizza at the Roadhouse Cafe.

Day 3 - Drive Pokhara

We leave the Kathmandu Valley in a private van early to avoid traffic, and drive six hours through scenic, terraced villages and green hills to balmy Pokhara, where we check into the lovely Sacred Valley Inn for the night. We have the afternoon to wander to the lake, do some shopping, or sit and relax in a cafe with a book. We'll head for Moondance Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, a great spot.

Photo Kim Bannister

Day 4 - Fly Jomsom. Trek Kagbeni

Up early for our spectacular mountain flight to the district headquarters of Mustang, Jomsom. Once on the ground, at 2720 meters, we are greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans. After sorting out gear and loading our porters, we trek up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni. The wide trail along a sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Nilgiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley and its massive, newly-restored brick-red gompa. At the police check post at the north end of the village where a sign reads 'Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point', we will complete our paperwork to enter Upper Mustang tomorrow. We'll stay at the New Annapurnas Lodge for the night, with time to explore the village in the afternoon.

Photo Kim Bannister

Day 5 - Trek to Tshe-Le

After breakfast, we enter the restricted area of Upper Mustang with our staff and horse caravan in tow. We head up a trail along the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, climbing over several ridges as we head north to the fortress-like village of Tangwe (3100m), a labyrinth of narrow alleys amongst white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat and apple orchards. This village is unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangwe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. There is a salt mine two hours from Tangwe; the salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley. Beyond Tangwe we reach Chhuksang (3050m) village and a naturally-formed tunnel through which the Kali Gandaki flows. The trek now leaves the Kali Gandaki valley and climbs steeply up a rocky gully to Tshe-Le (3030m), a village of extensive wheat and barley fields where we set up camp for the night. Tshe-Le was the first Mustangi village to build a hotel, the Deuralee, and has a few small shops. The culture changes at this point from Manangi to the Tibetan culture of Lo. Sheep horns adorn the houses in Tibetan style, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These 'zor' do what the look like they might do, capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household. Beware of the Tibetan mastiffs guarding the houses. A rock in the hand is always a good idea.

As it is our first night of trekking, we will get you set up in your Big Agnes tents, set up Kamzang-style dining tent and introduce you to our camp routine. Chai is brewing, and we'll have our first cups of hot tea as we watch the village life unfold around us.

Day 6 - Trek to Geling

After a good breakfast and freshly brewed coffee, we hit the trail. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau. Our train ascends and descends as we trek past the river valleys leading into the Kali Gandaki River. We trek along the side of a spectacular, steep canyon to the Dzong La pass (3550m) marked by rock cairns. We then descend gradually to a group of chortens on a ridge, eventually arriving at the village of Samar (3700m), with its lovely poplar grove, formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet. The Annapurnas, although still dominated by Nilgiri, are visible far to the south. The route continues over a chorten-topped ridge and through the small village of Bhona, and then climbs sharply up to the Baga La, down to the two-house village of Yemdo, back up to the 4000 meter Yemdo Pass and back down to Shyammochen village. We have one more 4000 meter pass, the Shyammochen La, where the trail intersects a wide east-west valley, before the final descent to the lovely village of Geling, where finally we set up camp for the night. There is an impressive, red gompa in the village, and traditional Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields to explore before heading to the dining tent for dinner ...

Photo by Tashi Ghale

Day 7 - Trek to Lo-Ghekar

From Geling, the trail climbs gently to a beautiful pass, the Nyi La (4050m), and descends to a bridge crossing the Tangmar Chu (river). From here, the trail looks across the valley to ochre, blue and steel-grey cliffs, and leads us past perhaps the longest and most spectacular mani (prayer) wall in Nepal. After crossing the minor Ghemi La (3520m) and the village of Ghemi (3690m) with a small gompa, and built along the steep edges of the cliff as many villages in Mustang are. We continue along the western route, stopping occasionally for passing herds of sheep and goats. Once past the village of Dhakmar, which is dominated by a dramatic, red canyon wall with many ancient cave dwellings, we cross the Mu-i La, drop back down and the climb yet again to high meadows by a meandering, rocky stream. Finally, Lo Ghekar, 'Pure Virtue of Joy'. We set up camp near Ghar Gompa, in a shady, grassy grove next to a stream. The gompa is reputed to be one of the oldest gompas in Nepal, and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet, as well as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means 'house gompa' in Nepali after the style of architecture, and it harbors many frescoes as well as wonderful carved and painted stones.

Photo by Tashi Ghale

Day 8 - Trek to Lo Monthang

After breakfast, we head north towards Lo, descending a bit to cross a small, wooden bridge first. Ascending out of the canyon, the trail contours around two valleys, before passing the small village of Marang. Once atop the Marang La (4353m), we are treated to magnificent mountain views. We pass by Samduling Gompa and the ruins of several old houses, and after a short descent and an easy stream crossing, we climb back up to the plateau of Lo Monthang, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration'. The fabled walled city of Lo, with a single entrance through which only the king is allowed to ride - all others must walk - is a wonderful sight! King Jigme Palbar Bista, called 'Lo Gyelbu' by the Mustangis, still resides at his four-storied palace inside the city walls; that is, when he’s not in Kathmandu. He is an avid horseman, and keeps his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, the king plays a somewhat ceremonial role although he is well loved and respected throughout Mustang.

In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, with the walled city of Lo Monthang as the capital and its inhabitants called Lobas. Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 150 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings which we'll have a chance to visit. And perhaps, we we'll have a cup of the infamous solja (salt butter tea), or chang (barley beer) ...

We'll get camp set up in a scenic spot, and start exploring with Tashi, who will know the best vantage points for sunsets and sunrises.

Day 9 - Lo Monthang

Relax, sleep late and linger over coffee as we have a free day to explore within the ancient, exotic city walls of Lo Monthang. Tashi has met the King and Queen, so might be able to procure introductions for us. In any case, we'll have a full day of photography and adventures.

There are four major temples within the medieval walls of Lo, Jampa Lhakhang, Thubchen Gompa, Chodey Gompa and Choprang Gompa. There is also the Raja's Palace, home to the present King and Queen (who is from an aristocratic Lhasa family) and an interesting maze of a village to explore. And plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalaya.

Photo by Tashi Ghale

10 - Lo Monthang – Visit the Chosar Valley

We will visit the two valleys to the northeast and northwest of Lo Monthang since we have the 13-day restricted permit; horses are available for the day for a small fee for those interested. We head up the eastern valley, today, to so some exploring. It is a two hour walk from Lo along partially eroded trails, past dry gullies and an ancient, ruined fortress, across a bridge and through a cultivated area until we view the cave village of Chosar, with the deep-red Nyphu Gompa built into the rock face. Plenty of time for photographs before rounding the chorten-toped bend, where we get views of Gharphu Gompa on the east banks of the Mustang Khola. We'll need to cross two bridges to arrive at the gompa, at 3760 meters, and then will circle back to visit Nyphu Gompa on the way back to Lo.

The Chosar valley was the main trading route with Tibet and Lhasa, and is peppered with the ruins of old fortresses guarding this strategic valley. Just north of this valley, over the border in Tibet, Lhakpa and I met a Tibetan man who still dealt in the trade of rare animal skins with Mustangi traders, a risky and of forbidden endeavor. It will be interesting to see if we can find out anything of this trade on the Nepal side of the border.

11 - Lo Monthang – Visit Tingkhar, Namgyal & Nyamdok

More adventures in store for us as we head up the western valley towards Namgyal Gompa (the Monastery of Victory), set spectacularly on top of a desolate ridge and the newest and most active gompa in Lo. Just past the gompa is Tingkhar, where the King has his summer palace. Further on, we reach Kimaling Gompa (and Phuwa Gompa on the way down), and eventually Nyamdok, a 3 or 4 hour walk from Lo. We'll pack lunch as it could be a long, rewarding day-trip ...

Back at camp, dinner is on the fire, tea is brewing, and cold beers are available from the tea-shops, so relax and enjoy our last evening in this magical capital.

Photo by Tashi Ghale

Day 12 - Trek to Dhi (Dri)

Sadly, we must leave magical Lo, but new adventures await us on our route south. We will attempt to trek to Dhi (Dri) along the eastern, winter route, following the trail along the western side of the Mustang Khola to Dhi, where we set up camp for two nights to be able to explore further east to Yara and Luri Gompa. If this route to Dhi isn't possible because of weather or trail conditions, we will trek over the Lo La (3950m) to Tsarang and head east to Dhi from there.

Following is the main route to Tsarang; leaving Lo Monthang, we trek down the east side of the valley. The trail descends steeply from the cairn on a ridge at 3850m called Lo (Dry) La, passes an impressive chorten high up on another ridge, and crosses the Charang Chu. We then head back up the trail to Tsarang, perched on the edge of a beautiful canyon, with magnificent views of the villages of the distant hillsides. The huge five-story white dzong and ochre-hued gompa contain a fascinating array of statues, thankas and large Buddha paintings. Elaborate sand mandalas are created here at festival time, and then ceremonially deposited into the river at the festival’s end. From here, we will continue to Dhi to set up camp.

Day 13 - Daytrip to Yara & Luri Gompa

An exploratory seven or eight hour day-trip out to the village of Yara, and further on to famous Luri Gompa. The sgo-nyer, or key-keeper of Luri Gompa is reputed to live in Yara, so we will stop en route to look for him. There is a newly discovered group of six cave dwellings nearby, called Tashi Kumbum, with incredible ancient murals and chortens which perhaps the key-keeper can show us. However, Gary McCue, who went there over fifteen years ago, wrote that the approach is very difficult/dangerous although though only an hour from Yara. We'll have to ask if there have been improvements in the formerly crumbling trail.

The Luri caves are filled with wonderful, 'Newari-style' (Gary McCue) Buddhist frescos and old chortens; historians estimate them to be from the 13th or 14th century, and linked to the Tashi Kumbum caves, one of a group of connected cave dwellings throughout this particular region. Unfortunately, or fortunately, most have been rendered inaccessible due to the intense erosion in Mustang, so will remain hidden throughout history.

This will be Tashi's first time to this remote region as well, so we will all share in the adventure (although we will bring a local guide!).

Photo by Tashi Ghale

Day 14 - Trek to Ghemi

Leaving Dri, we trek south and cross the Mustang Khola to reach Tsarang (3650m), with the greatest library in Lo and an ancient palace. Passing through the 'Great Chorten Gate', we head for the Tsarang La (3920m). After cresting the pass and then passing a trio of old red, black and white chortens, we reach the suspension bridge at the intersecting trail to Lo-Ghekar, we reach Ghemi, a sprawling village of white-washed houses and terraced fields, with a gompa in the process of restoration and a red nunnery at the far end of the village. We set up camp for the night, fields of billowing buckwheat glowing in the evening sun.

Day 15 - Trek to Samar

We head back south back over the Ghemi La and Nyi La passes, and then continue on via a different route through Chyunka and Tamagaon to reach the Shyammochen La at 4000 meters, and then Shyammochen village two hundred meters below. If possible, we'll take the easterly route from Shyammochen; otherwise, we will re-trace our steps to Samar and set up camp in Samar's scenic campsite, with cold beers available in the local tea-house and the old gompa to visit. Sunset over the many terraced fields of Samar is lovely, and Tashi again can take us to just the perfect spot ...

Photo by Tashi Ghale

Day 16 - Trek to Tetang

We head off the main trail on another exploratory route after a few hours, first crossing the Dzong La and Taklam La to Tshe-Le, our first night's campsite. Crossing the Mustang Khola on a steel foot-bridge, we continue back to Chhuksang, where we head east of the main route towards the village of Tetang (2940m), where we set up camp for the night near a chorten.

*** Note: depending on weather, trail conditions and the stamina of the group, we could try the remote eastern route to Tetang via Tangye, but this would require at least one long, strenuous day. But the rewards would be incredible, with a broad panorama stretching from Tsarang to Lo Monthang to the Tibetan border, and continuing with views of Dhaulagiri and other 8000 meter peaks. Open to discussion.

Photo by Tashi Ghale

Day 17 - Trek to Muktinath

Another exploratory day as we continue south over the Gnyu La (4200 meters), which boasts a panoramic view of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and the Tukuche range. A trail from the east intersects our trail just below the pass; soon after passing this trail we veer east towards Muktinath and the balmy villages of Lower Mustang via Chhengar village, with a small but active red gompa, and continues past a nunnery to join the main trail from Manang.

We finish the trek at the serene temple complex of Muktinath, where we stay in a guest house just five minutes down the trail from Muktinath at Ranipauwa. Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. From Muktinath, we have outstanding views of the colorful valley and neighboring villages, patchwork after patchwork of barley and potato fields, and walled enclosures of apple orchards.

We may head half an hour down the mail trail to Jharkot village, a bit less touristy, if time permits. Both have wonderful and welcoming lodges, and we'll order off the menu, a change from our camping fare. Cold beers available; or try some Marpha apple brandy, the best in the region, and certainly the strongest brew around!

Day 18 - Trek to Jomsom

A lovely, gentle walk back down to Jomsom via the charming villages of Jharkot and Khingar. Along the way, beautiful textiles are woven by hand looms in the traditional style, and are readily available for sale by eager Mustangi women. Yak tails to adorn your horses or dust your house also for sale. We pass the turn-off for Muktinath, and arrive in Jomsom along a long, cobbled trail in time for lunch, with the afternoon free to wander and shop. We'll celebrate our trek through 'forbidden' Mustang with a few cold beers at the lodge in the evening ...

Photo Kim Bannister

Day 19 - Fly to Pokhara & Kathmandu

Sadly, it's time to leave the magical Kingdom of Mustang and head back to Kathmandu. We board an early morning mountain flight from Jomsom, switching planes in Pokhara for a Kathmandu flight, and hopefully arrive back at the Kathmandu Guest House in time for lunch. Rooms are booked, showers are hot, and a load of laundry wouldn't be out of order. We'll meet for dinner later, perhaps heading to Fire & Ice for real Italian pizzas and a few glasses of warming red wine.

Photo Kim Bannister

Day 20 - Kathmandu

Back in bustling, colorful Kathmandu! We have scheduled an extra day in Kathmandu in case our flight from Jomsom or Pokhara is delayed. If not, everyone is free to enjoy our favorite Asian city, and we'll meet again for dinner and drinks in the evening.

Day 21 - Depart

We send you off to the airport for your flight home.

If you wish to stay longer, we can offer plenty of suggestions: mountain biking in the Kathmandu valley, an Everest sightseeing flight, a trip out to Bhaktapur or Patan, Kathmandu's other two capitals, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for a bit of luxury and some expansive sunset and sunrise mountain panoramas or many other excursions. Kim can help to arrange any of these excursions for you.

Tashi Delek, and see you during your next trip to the Himalaya!