Project Himalaya Nepal | Everest Gokyo trek

The Trek

This trek is a feast of green, fertile valleys, dramatic snow-peaks, traditional mountain villages and diverse cultures, a real journey through eastern Nepal starting in one of Nepal's many remote outposts, Tumlingtar. Many of the inhabitants of the middle hills below Lukla are Sherpas, the tough, devout Tibetan Buddhist mountaineers of international repute. They live mainly in the upper Solu region (and of course are the main inhabitants of the Khumbu region), farming barley, wheat and potatoes, tending their livestock, visiting their gompas, celebrating many Buddhist and Tibetan/Sherpa festivals and of course, trekking and climbing the high peaks in the Khumbu region.

Their neighbors, the Rai, tend to live further south, in clean, orderly, fertile villages with lots of opportunity to farm rice, millet and corn. Their dress is different from the Sherpas, who one might mistake for Tibetans; the Rai woman wear colorful lungis, and are adorned with golden nose rings while the men wear woolen vests, their khukri knives hanging at their sides. They often travel for work, many join the army, and you will meet them often working as guides, 'sherpas', cooks or porters in the trekking industry, many opening restaurants and lodges as they become more wealthy. The Rai, like the Sherpa, are of Tibetan descent but speak a Tibeto-Burmese dialect which is still only orally transmitted. Their religion, called Mudum, is an ancient form of animism, worshiped in the home, with shamans and holy men (dhami) enacting the many rituals and ceremonial rites. They are considered some of the oldest inhabitants of Nepal, and are of the Kirat ethnic group.

After our trek through the lush Salpa Arun Valley, we continue north through Sherpa country towards the border of Tibet, trekking up to the spectacular Gokyo valley lakes under clear, blue December skies. Once in Gokyo, there is lots of exploring to be done, Gokyo Ri to climb, and spectacular viewpoints for sunrise and sunset. We spend Christmas day at a wonderful lodge in Goyko, right on the lake. We usher in the New Year in Phortse, at one of our favorite lodges, after trekking down a little used trail on the eastern side of the valley, a wonderful route topped by 8000-meter snow peaks.

En route, we visit many of Kim and Lhakpa's favorite spots in the Everest region; Lhakpa comes from Thame, just west of Namche, and has relatives throughout the Khumbu, and Kim has been coming to the Everest region for years, her home away from home. We'll stay in cozy Sherpa lodges, stop at old Sherpa villages off the usual tourist trail, visit Buddhist gompas in Pangboche and Tengboche, and experience the real Solu Khumbu during our favorite month in the Everest region.

Trekkers Say

[About Kim] I swear you are one of the most amazing people I've ever met. You simply never ceased to amaze me with your seemingly endless energy. On top of that you were always there to see how I was doing and never failing to have a solution to whatever was the problem of the day. Your professionalism, organization, and friendliness shined at every turn.

Lowell, Everest Gokyo & Kala Pattar Christmas 2005

Kim - Your energetic leadership and guidance and positive outlook have made this trip truly memorable. Thanks for your kindness and inspirational support.

Jim Wolff, Everest Gokyo & Kala Pattar Christmas 2005

I had a delightful, if not challenging at times, trek. Kim and Lhakpa were friendly, informed and efficient and the porters were friendly and fun to be around.

Bill Castle, Everest High Passes 2006

Detailed Itinerary

*Note that although we try to follow the itinerary below, at times local trail or weather conditions may make slight changes necessary. The trekking itinerary may also vary slightly depending on everyone's acclimatization rates.

Early Arrival

Providing you have sent us your arrival details, you will be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House (look for their sign - they will be looking for you) and escorted to the guest house. Kim will book the extra nights for you, so your room will be ready.

Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m

You'll be met at the airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House, so look out for a Kathmandu guest house sign when you leave the airport. They will bring you back to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms are booked.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the main tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner we check your insurance details (please have a copy of your travel medical insurance policy with you), go over gear and get to know each other over a beer at New Orleans cafe ...

Day 2 - Kathmandu

Explore the Kathmandu valley with Kim. Options: Climb the many steps to Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with its commanding views of Kathmandu (at 1420 m), its whitewashed stupas and its unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional gompas, and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, Boudhanath attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square, one of the old capitals of the Kathmandu valley, is a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist temples, stupas and statues, and is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath and its sacred temple complex on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating - when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees.

We'll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to do this, and in the evening will head out for dinner of wood-oven pizza at the Roadhouse Cafe.

Day 3 - Fly to Tumlingtar

We're up early for our flight out to Tumlingtar in eastern Nepal, the starting point of our trek through the Arun Valley. It's a beautiful flight over terraced fields and traditional villages with snow-peaks peeking over the haze in the distance. We'll stay the night in a 'rustic' hotel, have some dal baht, meet the crew, and get ready for the first day's trek tomorrow.

Day 4 - Trek to Balwa Besi

The next nine days are wonderful days of 'old-style' trekking through the idyllic middle hills of eastern Nepal, a very diverse region of many ethnic groups, shamanistic religion interspersed with Buddhism and Hinduism, traditional villages, green, terraced fields, small, riverside trails and basic accommodation.

With the mountains rising in the hazy distance, Chamalang to the left and Makalu to the far-right, we set out with our crew from Tumlingtar to Gidhe, an hour's walk. Following the river closely, we will most likely stop for lunch another few hours later at Chewa Besi, and then continue to Kartiki Ghat, where we cross the Arun river on a suspension bridge. Fifteen minutes later we arrive at Balwa Besi, where we'll look for a lodge for the night.

Day 5 - Trek to Gothe Bazaar

We start the morning by crossing a sparkling stream on a bridge, continuing past the small teahouses, and starting a 600 meter climb, hot in this weather! The trail is slippery, of red mud, and we'll have a rest at the 'chautara' (Nepali resting wall, often by a shady tree) before taking the right to start up the steep climb. We pass many small intersections leading to village along the way, but continue on the main trail, eventually reaching Marduwa. The next village is Charlissay, not far from Marduwa. It was named after a Chettri caste that lived here many years ago, and have not reputedly migrated to the Kathmandu area. Soon we reach the intersection of the old trail from Dingla, and after contouring around a hillside we reach a larger trail near a cluster of banyan trees. Descending through the lush forest to the Irkhuwa River, we cross on a small bridge and after a short climb reach the lovely settlement of Gothe Bazaar, the inhabitants a mix of Gurung and Rai.

Day 6 - Trek to Jau Bari

Another balmy but early start as we head towards Lankuwa village and then further on to Dhobani, a village of paper-makers, the same that you see in the Kathmandu markets. Keeping above the Irkhuwa, we reach other paper-producing villages, Tallo Phedi and Tendor, from where we trek though the village fields and past the school before crossing the river and arriving at Phedi, at the confluence of two rivers. From here, the fun starts; we start climbing, steeply, on stone steps that seem to never, ever end ... Eventually they do, however, and we arrive at the hamlet of Jau Bari, having gained considerable altitude. Head for the local shop and pick up a cold (or lukewarm) beer! There is also a small gompa here, which the tea-house owners might open for us.

Day 7 - Trek to Sanam

A bit cooler this morning as we head up to the top of the ridge and contour around the dry pond, keeping to the south side of the ridge and through patches of rhododendron before reaching Guranse, a local porter stop. On to the pass! The Salpa Bhanjyang La at 3350 meters, with its single chorten, is the border of Solu Khumbu and the Sherpa region. We descend following a small stream and several mani walls to the Lidung Khola, where we cross to the north bank and continue on to Whaka with its few tea-houses. Soon afterwards we reach our stopping point for the day, Sanam, 'the land of the sky', and check into a tea-house for the night. We'll search for fresh yogurt, as it is often available.

Day 8 - Trek to Bung

Leaving pleasant Sanam, we first reach Duire (Tiu), a group of simple lodges. Soon afterwards, there is a gompa at Nimtsola, and here Sherpa influence ends and the land of the Rai begins. The trail is now larger as we trek down to the large, Rai village of Gudel, with the village of Bung and the Naulekh mountains visible in the distance. Following the stream on a rock trail, we ascend a switch-backing trail after crossing the Hungu Khola; Bung begins soon afterwards and continues upwards, built on the hillside, the lowest houses of the village about 400 meters below the upper reaches.. Bung means 'beautiful flower' in Rai, and is indeed a lovely, large village of Rai inhabitants, renowned for its tongba, or millet beer, and which has received much development aid recently. We'll settle in for the night in Bung, probably in the upper part of the village, with some time in the afternoon to explore this lovely village.

Day 9 - Trek to Najing Dingma

We start the morning with a short, steep ascent out of the village, and then our trail becomes more forgiving, contouring gradually around the hillsides. The trail heads towards Khiraunle-Chambaling Gompa, recently rebuilt. The newer trail passes right by the gompa, so if this trail proves to be the best one, we'll stop into the gompa for a look. Heading to the old chortens and mani walls on the ridge, we pass through an ancient rhododendron forest, and at the intersection by the small group of tea-houses, head up towards the Surkie La pass. There are better views at the sightseeing platform where we'll be able to see Khatang and Numbur. The descent is steep, through a forest of bamboo, and soon we arrive at our destination, Najing Dingma, a small village with a few small tea-houses and shops, set on a flat, green section of the hillside.

Day 10 - Trek to Bupsa

We head to the Jiri-Lukla route today; we'll head to Gai Kharka (cow summer settlement, literally) and after crossing the Inkhuwa Khola on a bridge built by the Himalayan Trust, start up the steep climb to Shubuche, about an hour's climb. The reward for our climb are wonderful views of the Mera peaks and the Inkhu Valley. Next up, the Satu La at 3175 meters, from where we should be able to see the lower Jiri trail, and the Transhindo La. Finally a descent as we head to Pangkongma village, which has a Hillary school and a few lodges, where we head out of town past the mani walls, looking at our destination, Bupsa, in the distance. The trail to Bupsa is small but well-used; it's a treat to arrive at the large village of Bupsa, spread out way on the top of a high ridge, with great views from all of the lodges. There is also a Hillary school here, so if there is time in the afternoon we might head over for a visit.

Day 11 - Trek to Surkhe 2700m

We've intersected the trail from Jiri, a hilly route of Himalayan forests, broad views, lots of contouring and many up ups and downs; one ahead of us to the Khari La (2850m) where we'll have our first view of the sacred Sherpa peak, Khumbu Yul Lha (Khumbila), and Gyachen Kang, and then Kusum Kangaru just around the corner. Just after the pass is the small hamlet of Khari. We finish the day after another climb at the small hamlet of Puiyan, where'll stop for a cup of tea. Getting closer to the upper Khumbu region, we continue to contour around hillsides, just below a small pass called Chutok La to another small hamlet of Surkhe from where we have a glimpse of the Kongde Massif (Nupla peak) and across (up) the valley, Lukla. We bed down for the evening in a lodge, and get ready to meet the Gokyo group tomorrow.

Kim & Monjo girls - photo by Jim Wolff

Day 12 - Trek to Phakding 2680m - Kim's Birthday

After crossing a suspension bridge, a gradual incline and gentle series of cobbled steps leads us below Lukla to Chaunrikharka, where we amble along an old, walled trail pass many traditional Sherpa houses, mani walls and fields of barley, potatoes and vegetables, a dramatic entrance to the Upper Khumbu region. We continue through this magical village pasts more mani walls until we reach Chheplung; nine wonderful days later we meet the main Everest trekking route to Everest Base Camp and the Gokyo Valley, so will see a few more trekkers, although not so many in December. From here, the mountain views keep getting more and more spectacular as we head north towards the turquoise Gokyo Lakes.

Ahead of us is Karylung peak, covered in snow. We are trekking along the Dudh Kosi (river) along a centuries-old trading trail from Nepal to Tibet. It is well traveled by stout, heavily loaded Nepali porters and Tibetan traders (Khampas, most distinguishable by the length of red or black tassel wrapped around their heads) conducting business between the weekly markets of Lukla and Namche with Chinese and Tibetan goods brought over the 5700m Nangpa La (pass) from Tibet.

From the small hamlet of Thado Kosi, while crossing a small, shaky bridge, we view the three sister peaks of Kusum Kanagaru to the east. More beautiful walking over cobbled trails takes us through Ghat and the best-maintained cluster of mani stones and prayer flags in the Khumbu. The local lama, owner of the Lama Lodge in Ghat, is responsible for this magical setting. At Phakding, a lively village a half hour's walk away from Ghat, we’ll have lunch at Ang Sani and Jangbu's Shangri La Lodge, well deserving of its name, and then settle into our rooms and around the wood-stove for the night. Since it's our first night together as a large(r) group and Kim's birthday, we'll perhaps try some of Ang Sani's tongba, a mild beer-like beverage, to celebrate the occasions. But just a little bit since we're acclimatizing!

Day 13 - Trek to Namche 3450m

Passing by the small tea-houses servicing the locals and workers in Phakding, we cross a long suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi and trek above the river, climbing a bit to reach the first lodge of Benkar on the left. Continuing over a small bridge, we continue through the rest of Benkar, the first village to attend the Monjo school. Another suspension bridge, another climb, and we reach Chumoa. One more small bridge and larger climb on uneven stone steps, and we finally reach Monjo, where we stop at Kali and Chombi's Kailash Lodge for an early lunch before the dreaded Namche hill. Monjo is a spectacularly situated Sherpa village where Kim taught English years ago.

Just past the lodge, school and newly painted mani walls we enter the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. Once inside the new gate, we descend to the river and cross yet another suspension bridge to reach Jorsale village, and one more bridge before continuing along the sandy riverside trail, the shores peppered with large, rounded rocks.

Bring your five-colored Tibetan prayer flags to hang on the long suspension bridge over the confluence of the Dudh Kosi (milk river) and the Bhote Kosi (river from Tibet) and send prayers out into the Everest region! The steep hour and a half climb to Namche is broken half-way up the hill by our first view of Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse, and will prime you for the bakery once we arrive at this old trading village. You'll need the extra energy to reach our guest house, Natang & Pemba's wonderful Moonlight Lodge, scenically situated at the top of Namche, up a long flight of stone steps, at 3500 meters. The lodge has a warm shower, a large library, beers in the cabinet and delicious home-cooked food, and will do laundry if anyone has grungy clothes.

Namche Bazaar, now the most prosperous trading village on the old trade route with Tibet, sits in an amphitheater surrounded by mountains. From here, we have perfect views of Kongde Ri in front of us, Kantaiega, Thamserku and Kusum Kangguru to the east and Khumbila behind us. Down-valley, the hills and valleys of the route from Solu to Khumbu from Jiri sit shrouded in hazy shades of grey.

Day 14 – Namche

An acclimatization day, so you are free to take a short hike up the hill to get some great Everest views, or just to relax. Other options: visit the Namche Gompa perched on the hillside, the Sherpa Cultural Center museum and re-constructed Sherpa house or the National Park Headquarters museum. The Tibetans are often in the center of town in a dusty bazaar with their goods from China. Alternatively, you might choose just to indulge yourself at one of the two famous bakeries, shop for some yak bells or hand-woven Himalayan hats, look through the gear shops for good trekking gear, chat with the sociable Sherpas in the village, or just relax in preparation for the trek. Watch out for dzopkios and cows wandering the narrow streets.

Day 15 - Trek to Kyangjuma (via Khunde & Khumjung)

Taking advantage of the bright morning light, we trek up the steep hill in back of Namche towards the lively, old Sherpa villages of Khunde and Khumjung, passing through the old airstrip at Syangboche en route. On the ridge just above the airstrip, still used for cargo, there are great views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, and a yak-breeding center. We may see some Himalayan Tahr en route, as there is a large herd living in the vicinity. We have the morning to visit Khunde's hospital, where Lhakpa's uncle Kami is the head doctor, and many cases of AMS have been treated. We will visit the local gompas of both villages, Khumjung's gompa housing a Yeti scalp. These adjoining villages are some of the original villages in the Khumbu region, both about 600 years old, and are wonderful examples of local Sherpa architecture with their winding stone walls, yak paddocks and wood and slate houses. If we are lucky, we will run into Sherpa friends who will invite us in for some salt-butter tea, climbing up a wooden ladder over the straw-lined manger to get into the main house on the first floor. Both villages sit below Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak, and near a famous rock-mural of Guru Rimpoche, and the views of Ama Dablam from Khumjung are breathtaking.

It's just a quick hike down through rhododendron forests to Tashi and Lhakpa's Ama Dablam lodge, perched dramatically on a steep hillside overlooking the peak of the same name. Great Everest sunset views to be had just five minutes above the lodge. This is one of everyone's favorite stops; Tashi is as charming as they come, the rooms are lovely, and we're treated to real Sherpa hospitality.

Day 16 - Trek to Dole 4050m

After a scenic breakfast on the deck and a bit of posing for photos with Tashi's pet yak, we start the morning by contouring around the hillside to Mong La, at 4000 meters, a wonderful spot overlooking both the Gokyo and Kala Pattar valleys, with a breath-taking panorama of peaks: Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Malan Palan, Taboche and the newly named Kamzang Peak. Phortse, one of the oldest villages in the Everest region, is perched at the intersection of the Khumbu & Gokyo valleys in front of us. The misty layers of the hills and valleys south of us are visible down-valley, as are Monjo and the bridge to Jorsale.

We'll have lunch at Mong La, enjoying the view, and then descend steeply through the pine forest to Phortse Tenga by the river, immediately ascending again. The route is beautiful, past frozen waterfalls, up cathedral-like stone staircases, through old rhododendron and Himalayan Birch forests, across small rivers and past tiny Sherpa settlements. The forest is home to several must deer, shy creatures who peer out at us through the tangle of rhododendron. We arrive a few hours later, having had our first view of the 8000 meter Cho Oyu, at the summer herding settlement of Dole, where we stop for the night at Kami & Dawa Dolma's Himalayan Lodge.

Day 17 - Trek to Luza 4360m

Hoping for a sunny morning, we continue up the Gokyo valley, gaining elevation, along a trail high above the valley floor, Cho Oyu looming in front of us at the border of Nepal and Tibet for the later part of the walk. We pass some small Sherpa herding huts en route, and after a few more hours of trekking we arrive at the charming yak-herding settlement of Luza and our favorite lodge there, Lhakpa Nuru and Chomzi's Kangtega View. Kangtega shimmers orange in the sunset, with great views from the ridge just above the lodge.

Day 18 - Trek to Gokyo 4790m

Another beautiful and mountainous trekking day; we set off early as the walk up to 4800 meters is difficult at altitude. In the Gokyo valley, once past the lodge at Fanga, the character of the trekking changes abruptly. The opaque powder-blue lakes are often on the verge of freezing over, and sometimes perform a Himalayan symphony of expanding and retracting ice. We have entered the grassy ablation valley running beside the Ngozumpa Glacier, and have our first sight of Gokyo, a seasonal village and grazing area built beside the third, and biggest lake. Gokyo has become something of a Himalayan resort without the crowd – at least in terms of the comfortable lodges with sunrooms, unbeatable views, excellent food and warm stoves. A more spectacular setting is difficult to imagine, and our guesthouse, the Cho Oyu Lodge, perfectly situated on the lake-side, is a little piece of heaven. Dali Sherpa, our host, is always ready with a smile and a laugh, and with her son (and sometimes her daughter) helping at the lodge, you'll feel right at home. Lured into the wonderful sun-room, it is easy to spend the rest of the day chatting with fellow trekkers, watching shaggy yaks amble their way in and around Gokyo (sometimes casually sticking their heads inside the lodges) and admiring the views.

Day 19 - Gokyo - Christmas Day

After breakfast, we cross the small, glacial stream, jumping over the stone 'bridge' to get to the base of Gokyo Ri (5360m), just five minutes from the lodge. It will take us about two hours of switch-backing to reach the prayer-flag festooned summit; take your time as the views down valley past Gokyo lake are great the whole way up. From the top, we are treated to a spectacular, 360 degree panorama of the Gokyo lakes, the glacial moraine and the surrounding Himalayan giants; Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu among many others.

A nice afternoon excursion is a circumambulation of Gokyo lake; there is a beach at the other side, and then Buddhist and Hindu shrines just past that, a walk of 1 to 1 1/2 hours. And for sunset, don't miss a quick hike up the moraine ridge in back of the village for glorious sunset colors on Cho Oyu, turning pinker down valley towards Cholatse, Taboche and Thamserku.

*** It's Christmas Day, so we'll have a feast and a few bottles of wine in (well, we'll see how everyone is feeling, maybe hot lemon is more realistic) in the evening, perhaps even some presents! A real Himalayan Christmas!

Day 20 - Gokyo

Two options for today; the first is a scenic day hike up the Gokyo valley, past two or three more glacial lakes, towards Cho Oyu. There are several trails that snake up this gorgeous valley, one emerging on the ridge overlooking the creaking glacier, another passing the eerily deserted fourth lake with it’s white, stony beach. The unobstructed view of Everest from Scoundrel's Point (4995m), just before the fifth lake, is reason enough for the hike.

The other option is a 3 1/2 hour trek up to the Renjo La (4515 meters) for spectacular Himalayan views from both sides of the pass; from here, stone steps descent to the Thame Valley and the Nangpa La, which the Tibetans cross with their yaks en route to Namche.

And then, of course, there is always just relaxing in the warm sunroom of the lodge with a book ...

Day 21 – Trek to Phortse 3810m

A truly epic day of wonderful hiking on high mountain trails which skirt the ridges on the west of the river. We trek back along the lakes to just below the stone steps, where we cross the river to the small hamlet of Na, and then gradually climb back up, contouring on a high trail along the western side of Cholatse and Taboche peaks. Looking back, we have an unobstructed view of Cho Oyu and the glacial valley, and ahead Ama Dablam. There are several lovely villages, yaks in the walled enclosures, for tea and/or lunch (although perhaps with limited options in December), other scenic, stony seasonal villages, a few ridges topped with chortens to climb, magnificent views of Taboche, and lots of wildlife, so enjoy the day.

We arrive early afternoon at Phortse, in time to stop at the colorful Phortse Gompa at the very top of the village. Phortse, a maze of small, walled lanes, traditional houses and now many newer lodges, is one of the oldest villages in the Khumbu. The village perches scenically on the promontory protruding from Taboche, which towers majestically above it. Many Daphne, musk deer and blood pheasants live in the woods that border the village, and you can almost always see them early and late in the day.

We stay the night at Phortse Lodge, which boasts one of the regions nicest dining area, a good sound system and TV, delicious food and a stocked bar ...

Day 22 – Trek to Pangboche 3930m

After a sunny breakfast, we head up the hill in back of Phortse to the ridge where we look down on Tengboche Gompa across the Dhud Kosi valley. Today's trail also has fantastic mountain views and a trail that rivals yesterdays, though not as long. We contour around the eastern side of Taboche, with a few small crests, for just over three hours to reach Upper Pangboche, where we stop for a look at one of the oldest gompas (500 years) in the Khumbu. We stay at the last lodge of Pangboche village, Sonam Lodge, owned by Lhakpa's brother and sister-in-laws, Gyurme & Nima Lhamo, and their vivacious young daughter, Sera Dolma. Gyurme is one of the many lodge owners that we will meet along the way who has summitted Everest many time. From the three-sided windows of the dining room, we will be treated to a sunset over Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.

It's a nice walk up past the gompa to another hermitage, tucked away at the mouth of a narrow gorge, in the afternoon, and a good place to scour the small shops for left-over Everest supplies, as many of the Everest Sherpas come from Pangboche.

Day 23 – Trek to Namche

A wonderful walk along well-used yak trails down to the bridge over the Dudh Kosi, through rhododendrons and past ancient, moss-covered mani walls to Debouche, where we'll stop at the ani gompa, or nunnery. Afterwards, we start the steep climb to the spectacularly set Tengboche Gompa, backed by the massive wall of Kantaiega. We'll stop to visit the gompa, have some tea, and descend steeply to Phunki Tenga and the bridge across the river. A last steep climb and some contouring through scrub, pine forests and rhododendron eventually leads us to Kyangjuma, where we stop again for a sunny lunch on the terrace of Ama Dablam Lodge. A further 1 1/2 hours of contouring brings us to the top of Namche Bazaar and back to the Moonlight Lodge where Pemba and Natang have our rooms ready.

Day 24 - Trek to Lukla

Up early as it's quite a long day back to Lukla. The descent of that long hill that we plodded up less then a fortnight ago seems amazingly short and easy on the way down. Jorsale, just before the bridge to Monjo, is the home of Phuru Diki, one of the girls Kim sponsors (she's now in school in Kathmandu), and we will probably run into her youngest sibling en route. After one last steep hill to the National Park gate, we reach the welcome sight of Monjo, where we'll stop at the Kailash Lodge for a cup of tea. Dawa Yangi, another girl that we sponsor, and her younger sister live in Monjo, so we might run into them in Monjo. We continue back to Lukla along the same trail, although it always looks different coming from the opposite direction. We’ll stop for lunch in Phakding, and finish the trek back at Dawa Phuti & Ang Pasang's Paradise Lodge in Lukla, where the adventurous can try some of Dawa's famous Sherpa tongba. This cozy dining room is one the nicest in the Everest region, so it's always an added treat to return there after the trek. Ang Pasang works for the airport, so we are in good hands for our flight out the next morning.

Day 25- Fly to Kathmandu - New Year's Eve

Bags packed and ready to go early as we fly out of Lukla to Kathmandu on Yeti Airlines in the morning; taking off from the Hillary Airstrip is just as exciting as landing! Flights our of Lukla are sometimes delayed by bad weather, so we have an extra day in Kathmandu just in case.

In Kathmandu, back at the Kathmandu Guest House, long, hot showers await, and grubby clothes can be dropped at the laundry. In the evening, after changing into the appropriate New Year's garb, we'll get together somewhere in Thamel for a great New Year's Eve celebration, a fitting way to end our journey. Happy New Year!

Day 26 - Kathmandu

A free day in Kathmandu for shopping, some sun in the garden of the guest house, shopping, cafe-ing or perhaps a visit to Boudhanath for some 'koras' to give thanks for our safe journey back from the mountains. And sights we missed during the first few days in Kathmandu, we can catch today, and afterwards out for our last dinner together. This is also the extra day in case of cancelled flights out of Lukla.

Day 27 - Depart

Sadly, we send you off to the airport for your flight home.

Extra Days in Kathmandu

*** If you wish to stay longer, we can offer plenty of suggestions: mountain biking or rafting in the Kathmandu valley, an Everest sightseeing flight, a trip out to Bhaktapur or Patan, Kathmandu Valley's other historic capital cities, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for a bit of luxury and expansive sunset and sunrise mountain panoramas or a multi-day trip out to Chitwan or Bhardia National Parks. Kim can help to arrange any of these excursions for you.

Tashi Delek & Namaste; we'll see you during your next trip to the Himalayas!

Nepal essentials

Everest extras

Everest galleries

Arun Valley & Gokyo Lakes Christmas & New Year's Trek

Outline Itinerary

Day 1 - Sunday, 7 December - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m

2 - Kathmandu

3 - Fly to Tumlingtar 250m

4 - Trek to Balwa Besi

5 - Trek to Goethe 775m

6 - Trek to Jau Bari 2300m

7 - Trek to Sanam 2650m

8 - Trek to Bung 1800m

9 - Trek to Najing Dingma 2650m

10 - Trek to Bupsa 2350m

11 - Trek to Surkhe 2700m

12 - Trek to Phakding 2680m

13 - Trek to Namche

14 - Namche (visit Khunde & Khumjung)

15 - Trek to Kyangjuma 3620m

16 - Trek to Dole 4050m

17 - Trek to Luza 4360m

18 - Trek to Gokyo 4800m

19 - Gokyo - Christmas Day

20 - Gokyo

21 - Trek to Phortse 3800m

22 – Trek to Pangboche 3980m

23 – Trek to Namche

24 – Trek to Lukla

25 - Fly to Kathmandu - New Year's Eve

26 - Kathmandu

Day 27 - Friday, 2 January - Depart

Highlights

2008 Dates

Cost - US $2680

Leader

Arrival Hotel

Local Office Contact

Our Services Include

Our Services Exclude

Tips & Extra Cash