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Second team Camp 1
Above, "that" enchanting mountain from Camp 1 (it is not Kailash)
21 Sept - What is up with Inmarsat?
I don't complain readily, but what is up with the satellite internet service we use? A satellite is 100% reliable until it is a falling ball of fire, communications/software has to be and is more than 99.9% reliable, only requiring a 1 minute reboot if there is a serious problem, yet we have lost internet for days at a time three times this year, once on each expedition. Since we have had reliability issues I ordered and paid for a different new unit in Dec 2006, and it still hasn't been delivered, we have been promised it only one year late. We have not received an apology or even an acknowledgment of any single problem. Bad service from a virtual monopoly, a shame, especially as when their service works, it flies.
22 Sept - to Camp 1
Joe F, Gordon and myself (Jamie) slept at Depot Camp last night and then headed thru the Penitentes, lots of ups and downs but no drama. Then we climbed with plenty of needed rests up to our Camp 1, making good time even if it didn't feel like it. Chris and Emelio, the USA and Italian North Face climbers passed us, just...
Joe F with Gordon (semi-unbalanced) looking back in the Penitentes - Jamie
Our route thru the Penitentes is just above Gordon's
pack, as is Depot Camp and ABC is where the Penitentes end.
Joe F also loaded up - Jamie
At last our Camp 1 with the big new Mountain Hardwear Trango 4 tents , the route to Camp 2 is the ski tracks, very foreshortened - Jamie
23 Sept - Camp 1
The three of us settled in, myself in a good sleeping bag, Joe F in a Marmot South Col a bag so big you can get lost in it, and Gord in his "9000m jacket" and down pants and a rag that he called a sleeping bag. naturally he wanted the middle. Accurately that couldn't happen as Joe's bag was so fluffy he took up half the tent. The new model Trango 4's have much thicker poles than the old model, a sturdy and good tent, I think.
Gord spreads out (a sign of inadequacy?) and Joe enjoys his more than adequate bag - Jamie
At Camp 1 we met the rest of the team, who had stayed two nights up at Camp 2
and were passing thru on the way down.
Dr Jen Styling - Jamie