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Tukuche Climbing Camp
6000m+ play time!
Tukuche is a 6920m peak that is easy to access with a safe route up to 6800m, and close by are a 6000m and 6300m peak perfect for playing around on. What a mountain paradise!
We start with the trek around Dhaulagiri to get us up to Hidden Valley. This is a classic but it it tough and should not be underestimated. We trek in an ultra-light style, staying in local houses and lodges and you carry your own trek clothing for this section as we don't take porters. In the higher sections we camp and the sherpas will carry the shared tents and meals. Climbing gear etc will go in to BC via a different route.
Tukuche Peak with Dhaulagiri behind, we climb the right ridge - Jamie
A section of the trail to the last village; wide but check that exposure! - Jamie
A rustic, adventurous bridge - Jamie
Our cooks at Salla Ghadi, the dal bhaat was delicious - Jamie
Day 1 - arrive Kathmandu 1350m
We meet you at the airport, look for a Project Himalaya sign with your name on it.
2 - in Kathmandu
Meet the team! This is a last minute preparation and shopping day. You can leave any gear which you don't need during the expedition at the hotel.
3 - fly Pokhara, drive Darbang, trek Bima Khara
We take a morning flight to Pokhara, hop on a bus from the airport and drive to the end of the road, Darbang (which is past Beni), then in the late afternoon we see if we can trek to the first village, and there is a simple lodge here that has surprisingly good dal bhaat.
4 - trek Bogahara
This is classic middle hills trekking and will be hot today. We take the shortcut route to the village, a small and sometimes exposed trail. There may be one section where ropes are required. This is not the normal, longer trekking route via Takum.
5 - trek Doban 2450m
We leave the last village behind and trek to a grazing kharka with a couple of simple lodges.
6 - trek Italian Base Camp 3620m
We leave early as this is a relatively long day and we are getting to real altitude.
7 - rest Italian Base Camp 3620m
We have gained some altitude and tomorrow will gain more so we have a rest day here. We will inspect the route on to the glacier and fix a rope.
8 - trek Japanese Base Camp 4220m
We leave the simple teahouses behind and descend the rope to cross the glacier, then climb up the other side. It is a spectacular trail, but there are some dangerous sections, BEWARE of rock fall in a couple of sections. We camp, sharing tents, on the glacier. Or perhaps you want to sleep outside? Consider taking Diamox here, talk over with Phil.
9 - trek Dhaulagiri Base Camp 4650m
Route-finding is critical today, and beware of crevasses if off route. We camp at the base camp used to climb Dhaulagiri via the normal route.
10 - rest Dhaulagiri Base Camp 4650m
We acclimatize to lessen the pain for tomorrow. Enjoy the massive mountain scenes!
11 - trek French Col to Hidden Valley 5100m
Again ensure you are on the right route. We cross the 5370m French Col for new vistas, and trek down to our base camp in Hidden Valley. This will already be set up and Sarki and the crew will be waiting for us with some good food!
At BC you get your own tent.
12-13 - Base Camp 5100m
We acclimatize further and have a puja, a ceremony to show respect for the mountain. The puja is held on an auspicious day decided by the sherpas.
We will set up several camps on the mountain, and spend time acclimatizing, building up to a summit attempt. The summit attempt will be somewhat weather-dependent, as all big peaks are. It will be cold, probably down suit conditions for summit day...
If we summit early there are a number of other peaks around worth looking at.
30 - trek Yak Kharka/Marpha
The beauty of Tukuche is we can get back to Kathmandu quickly, and today we trek to Yak Kharka, although it is possible to get to Marpha if you push it (hard on the knees, a 2585m/8500ft descent).
31 - trek Jomsom
We trek via Marpha and its good restaurants to Jomsom, the district headquarters here. Hot showers (do you have any clean clothes?)!
32 - fly Jomsom-Pokhara-Kathmandu
We take a morning flight out. The flights are reasonably reliable here but if it is postponed then we can bus to Pokhara in a long, tough day.
33 - Kathmandu
This is a free recovery day. (If we didn't fly yesterday then we fly from Pokhara to Kathmandu today).
Day 34 - depart
We are climbing a 7000m mountain later than normal and it will be COLD (but hopefully gloriously fine). Trekking and at BC, and even lower on the mountain should be pleasant enough but the high camps and summit will be savagely cold, perhaps like a reasonable summit day on Cho Oyu. So these are good conditions to use your 8000m gear. Do review our Cho Oyu-Shishapangma gear list and basically the only changes are
- one sleeping bag only
- down suit is optional but if you don't have then you need a thick down jacket and warm primaloft or similar pants
- one set of mattresses
- small summit pack not necessary
- either trek with your expedition pack or bring an additional 35-45 litre trek pack
Gear will be packed in kit bags rather than drums, crampons and ice axe separately (we will handle). Pack your climbing gear separately from trekking gear. The climbing gear will not necessarily be accessible during the trek in. Do consider how to pack and how to keep your gear to a reasonable quantity. Also consider whether you will trek in with a large day pack and a porter carrying a kitbag or carry most or all of your trekking gear yourself, either way is OK.
We have run many successful and safe expeditions however you must understand this is as real as it gets. We try our best with safety and gear within the limits of the expedition budget but this is 7000m and anything can happen. Even with good gear, good everything, the risk of death is small but real. As with most mountains there is UNAVOIDABLE avalanche danger, although the probability is low.
We try our best and we are very responsible, caring people however we are not liable for anything, full stop.
The trekking pole and longer ice axe combo is often more appropriate than fancy dual technical tools - Jamie