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Ladakh, the Land Beyond Trek

'The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.'
- St. Augustine

Experience 'old Tibet' in the Indian Himalaya. Our early summer trek is a timeless journey through ancient kingdoms of western Tibet and far away villages of present-day Ladakh and Zanskar; the remote 'Bear Valley' and high passes add some real adventure to the trip.

Our journey starts in the green hills of Manali, tucked away in Himachal Pradesh, and continues over the Rotang Pass to Lahaul, where we begin our trek in Darcha village. The glaciated Shingo La (pass) leads us to Zanskar, 'the land of white copper', a land of harsh beauty, cathedral-like rock spires, lively, white-washed villages, billowing fields of barley and grazing sheep and goats. We spend wonderful days walking through this landscape in flux, camping at beautiful sites, exploring the gompas and visiting old friends in the villages.

We reach the Zanskar river the Kingdom of Zangla mid-trek, with the Himalayas looming grandly in back of us. After a few days of visiting some of the most spectacular gompas in the Indian Himalaya, we ascend steeply up Bear Valley and enter Ladakh, 'the land of high passes'. Here, Tibetan Buddhist lamas walk on the same trails as us, crumbling, cliff-side monasteries appear on the horizon and ancient villages pepper the valleys between the passes. Surrounding us, a wonderful panorama of snow-peaks and craggy, dun-hued ranges put everything into perspective ...

Join us for this incredible journey into the lands beyond ...

Outline Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrive Delhi

2 - Drive Manali (Overnight Luxury HP Bus)

3 - Manali 2000m

4 - Drive Keylong 3110m

5 - Drive Darcha 3340m

6 - Trek Palamo 3680m

7 - Trek Zanskar Sumdo 3940m

8 - Zanskar Sumdo

9 - Trek Chumik Nakpo 4560m

10 - Trek Lakong (Sumdo) 4490m

11 - Trek Kargyak 4110m

12 - Trek Testa 3950m

13 - Trek Purne 3840m

14 - Purne (trek Phutkal Gompa)

15 - Trek Ichar 3900m

16 - Trek Reru 3830m

17 - Trek Padum 3590m

18 - Drive Karsha Gompa, drive Stongde Gompa 3600m

19 - Trek Zangla Doksa 3430m

20 - Trek Karmafu 3780m

21 - Trek Bear Camp3980m

22 - Trek Nyeraks 3710m

23 - Trek Yulchung 3900n

24 - Trek Singge Valley Camp 4430m

25 - Trek Photoksar 4200m

26 - Trek Hanupatta 3960m

27 - Trek Panjila, Drive Leh 3500m

28 - Leh

29 - Leh

Day 30 - Fly Delhi, Depart

Highlights

Leh & the Indus Valley traditional Tibetan-style Ladakhi & Zanskari villages

Cliff-side Tibetan Buddhist gompas

Demanding trekking, high passes and incredible Himalayan scenery

Beautiful campsites in remote locations

The remote Bear Valley route

Central Asian wildlife

The drive over the Rotang Pass from Manali

Dates

No current trek; see Our treks

Cost

Max 12 bookings

Hotel single supplement $100

Leaders

Kim Bannister

Delhi Airport Transfers & Sightseeing

Dhruv Travels

Contacts: Prince & Rajesh

travelorganiserindia@yahoo.co.in

Office: +(91 11) 6536 8764

Prince mobile: +(91) 98104 85897

Rajesh mobile: +(91) 98993 73886

Arrival Hotels Delhi

Jyoti Mahal

2488-90 Nalwa St, Chuna Mandi, Paharganj

Tel: +(91 11) 2358 0523/24/25/26

http://www.jyotimahal.net/

Cottage Yes Please

Laxmi Narayan Street, Paharganj

Tel: +(91 11) 2356 2300/2100

http://www.yokosindia.com/hotelcottageyesplease/

Contact: Mr Vishesh

Vishesh mobile: +(91) 98100 09810

Hotel Manali

Hotel Mayflower

Club House Road, Manali

Tel: +(91 1902) 252 104, 250 256

Contact: Mr. Dharmendra Minajagi, Manager

Dharmendra mobile: +(91) 9816 341 914

Leh office and hotel

Rinchen

Wonderland Trek and Tour

Hotel Shaynam

Old Road, Leh

tel: +91 1982 255 990

Mob1: +91 94191 79154

Mob2: +91 99069 90444

Our Service Includes

Airport transfers

Hotels in Delhi, Manali & Leh

Domestic flights, local departure tax

Group transportation by private vehicle

'Kamzang' expedition-style trekking:

Delicious meals, fresh coffee & gourmet teas, horse portering, Western & Sherpa guides, local staff, single, roomy Marmot & Big Agnes tents (double for couples) & our famous 'Tibetan Festival Tent' as a dining tent.

Our Service Excludes

Meals in Delhi, Manali & Leh (when not camping),

travel or travel health insurance, India visa, international flights, equipment rental, alcohol and bottled drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature.

Tips

Allow approx $250 for meals and tips for the staff.

Detailed Itinerary

Note that although we try to follow the itinerary here, at times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on our trekkers' acclimatization rates.

Also note that most flights into Delhi arrive late at night/very early in the morning. Plan your arrival time and date carefully and ask if you are not sure. Finally for the departure, also plan your times carefully and understand that sometimes the flight from Leh to Delhi can be delayed by a day by bad weather, approx 1 in 20 flights are delayed.

Day 1 - Arrive Delhi

Kim or a representative from Dhruv Travels will meet your international flight at the New Delhi airport, so look for a yellow Project Himalaya sign as well as a sign with your name on it. We'll bring you to our wonderful Rajasthani-style hotel in Paharganj, the Jhoti Mahal.

2 - Drive Manali 2000m

We take the Himachal Pradesh Luxury Overnight Tourist Bus from Delhi to Manali, so have the day free for some sightseeing in Delhi, or to rest up after a long flight to India.

3 - Manali

We arrive in Manali late morning, and have the rest of the day free to explore Manali and it's bazaars, or just to relax at our wonderful hotel in the woods, The Mayflower. We'll go out for the best wood-oven pizza in northern India tonight, just up the road at Il Forno, and celebrate our first night in the hills with a few cold beers ...

4 - Drive Keylong 3310m

We head off from Manali after breakfast, stopping at the Tibetan colony to pick up some supplies, and heading towards the 4000 meter Rohtang Pass. Crossing the Pir Pinjal is simply spectacular, and on the other side the monumental nature of the Himalaya is equally breath-taking. Once over the pass, we have entered the region of Lahaul, a distinct Himalayan region. (Have your passports with you for the check post just over the pass, where we stop for a 'bhatti' lunch). The entire drive is wonderful, and we'll have time to stop and take in the views as we only have a six hour drive to Keylong. We will notice the different style of dress in this region, and the Lahauli women are known as some of the most beautiful in the Himalaya.

We stay the night in a hotel in Keylong, part of our careful acclimatization program for the trek, but not only for this. The bazaar at Keylong is interesting, worth a walk through, and the next morning we'll descend to the Chenab River, cross to the other side, and climb up right through the middle of the timeless Lahauli village of Khardung to Khardung Gompa, sitting resplendently on the hillside. It's a great way to acclimatize, stretch our legs after many days of travel, and get into the routine of trekking ...

5 - Drive, camp Darcha 3340m

Hike up to Khardung Gompa in the morning (see above). Around noon, we'll jump into the jeeps again for our last few hours of driving, two (scenic) hours to the road head at Darcha, a collection of tea houses, where our crew has set up our camp by the river. Have your passports ready as there is another check post at the bridge just before Darcha. At camp, you'll meet your home for the next few weeks, a Tibetan style dining tent ('gur' in Ladakhi) and your own Marmot or Big Agnes tent; two person tents for singles, and three person tents for couples. There is time in the afternoon for some last minute shopping in the truck-stop of Darcha (the real town is across the river, but this one has sprung up as a stop on the Leh - Manali highway.

6 - Trek Palamo 3680m

A leisurely walk awaits us in the morning, first on a dirt road past Lahauli villages, then across a new bridge (the old, wooden one was much more exciting to cross) over a deep gorge, and finally over a small river (with or without a bridge) and through meadows to the green grazing pastures at Palamo, where we will have lunch and camp for the night. We have short days the first few days of the trek, as we are gaining altitude, and it is essential to ascend slowly and within 500-600 meters maximum per day. It is vital during the early days of the trek to not over-exert yourself, and to keep hydrated. We recommend at least three liters of water per day. Our campsite in Palamo is wonderful and grassy, stretched out along the meandering stream, and we will have plenty of time to show you how to set up the tents. Grab a camp chair and stretch out by the stream with a book for the afternoon; or, if you've got energy to spare, there is also a ridge to the west, heading up towards a waterfall, for additional acclimatization and a good hike. But take it easy!

7 - Trek Zanskar Sumdo 3940m

Sumdo means river junction, and the junction that we head for today leads to our destination, Zanskar. We'll have a five hour trek today which you should feel, as we're getting close to 4000 meters. The trail first passes some fields of peas, often flowering, and barley, intersects the new road a few times, and then snakes up and down the scree-fields on the side of the hills to our right and along grassy, rocky plateaus. There will be two river crossings today, and if it's been a winter with heavy rainfall, expect to need sandals and perhaps your trekking poles. For glacial valley lovers among you, today's walk will be a classic, as will tomorrow's. We set up camp at the far end of Zanskar Sumdo, along a grassy section of the tiny stream, spring water ...

8 - Zanskar Sumdo

A rest day for acclimatization, so if you feel like a walk, ask Kim what the options are ... If you want to rest, it's a good idea; don't feel like you have to do anything besides head in and out of the dining tent today!

9 - Trek Chumik Nakpo 4560m

Heading further up the valley towards the Shingo La, the gateway to Zanskar, we start the day with a river fording, a bridge crossing and a small but steep climb up the narrow valley banks. As we climb towards the base of our first pass, we see our first real snow-peaks looming above us in the distance. As usual, it is important to trek slowly today, as we are ever gaining altitude; and of course to drink lots of water and stop and rest when your body tells you to. There is no pressure to go fast or to walk as a group; we have adequate staff to spread our group out, and take our time. Look out for grazing sheep and local shepherds en route. We camp at Chumik Nakpo, a basic campsite an hour below the 'high camp' and the base for climbing Ramjack Peak.

10 - Trek Lakong (Sumdo) 4490m

We cross our first pass early this morning, so have your headlamps out! The Shingo La is our gateway to Zanskar, 'land of white copper'. It is a long, slow ascent in the thin air, but a spectacular one; we trek over snowy plateaus with fantastic mountain views all around, negotiate our way through sculptural, wind-blown snow and then ascend a steep trail to the wide saddle just before the top. We either jump a small, icy stream and climb to the pass on the right, or follow the left bank of a small lake and reach the pass by the left trail, whichever looks the best once up on the snow plateau. The Shingo La at 5000 meters is a classic Himalayan pass with a prayer flag festooned top, and a steep drop down to Lakong, meaning 'gateway' in Ladakhi, and then down to the camp at Lakong Sumdo about an hour away.

The Gumbarajon, which translates as a naturally formed gompa (monastery), is a 6000m rock tower which dominates this valley, the Kargyak Chu. Now that we are over the first pass we slowly descend over the next week to central Zanskar, one of the most pristine and scenic region of the state of Jammu & Kashmir, full of traditional Zanskari culture ...

You'll be exhausted after the pass, so take a rest as we get the dining tent set up, and chai will be out soon!

11 - Trek Kargyak 4110m

The approach to Kargyak village is nothing less than spectacular; the space and colors of the valley are awesome, made all the more dramatic by the small details; flowers, lichen, shimmering river rocks, marmots, pikas, mountain birds and animals dotting the hills. It is an easy day’s walk, during which we might stop for a bowl of fresh yogurt sprinkled with tsampa at the doksa, or summer herding settlement, of the Kargyak villagers. Tsampa is one of the basic foods of all of the Himalayan regions, extremely nutritious roasted barley, ground into a fine powder, and eaten in a variety of ways.

We spot the entrance chortens in black, red and gold from a distance, and finally look down on the checkered barley fields and houses of Kargyak below. Kargyak is our first Zanskari village, and we are almost always invited to visit a Zanskari home for tea, and some of the local brew called ‘chang’. Singge, the Zanskari orphan we sponsor, comes from Kargyak, and we will be visiting his family in the village to give them news of his progress in school. The village kids will be out en force to visit our dining tent; they are some of the few that we really indulge, as we've known them all for so long.

12 - Trek Testa 3950m

Classic Zanskar scenery all around as we trek along the valley, past white-washed villages of Hi on the left bank (we'll make a detour to the village on the way to Testa, as it's one of Kim's favorite off-the-tourist-track villages in Zanskar, a myriad of activity, friendly villagers, lovely setting) and Tantse on the right, both with tilled fields, surrounded by jagged, dun-colored peaks. On the way, we'll have time to explore many of these interesting, traditional Zanskari villages. There is just one sketchy stretch across an old bridge (for those with a fear of exposed bridges, there is a new one, but without the character of the old) along the trail; otherwise, it's a relatively flat day. We have lunch at Mune, usually inside an old threshing field. It can be a scorching day, so drink lots of water and be ready for it. We camp at Testa, in a wonderful campsite surrounded by old chortens, by our friend the amchi (Tibetan doctor)'s house. The village is a lively one, and we'll have the afternoon to explore, or visit with the kids who will be at camp again to see what's happening ...

13 - Trek Purne 3840m

We just have a three hour day today, past the Zanskari village of Yal and along a great, high trail overlooking the Kargyak Chu, now much larger. Look across the river at the old trail cut into the cliff-side! It's good to start early to beat the sun and arrive at the shaded oasis of Purne in time for a shower and to do some clothes washing. Our good friend, Dolma, also an amchi, runs the showers and one of the campsites, and her shop has ample supplies of cold beer and soft drinks. We'll have lunch under one of the shops shaded awnings, and wait for the horses to arrive to set up camp. Enjoy the afternoon, and the wonderful sunsets ...

Or climb to the 'lhatoo' with prayer flags above the village for a view down on camp and the intersections of the Tsarap Chu with the Kargyak Chu.

14 - Purne (trek to Phuktal Gompa)

The spectacularly perched Phuktal Gompa, a two hour walk up a narrow gorge on exposed trails, is one of the oldest sites in the Indian Himalaya, and one of the most lively gompas in the region. The easy hike out tot he gompa is also beautiful, so everyone should really try to make it. Phuktal Gompa has a school attached to it, and the young, lively monks are always keen to practice their English, or to have a photo taken. The gompa itself is a real Central Asian treasure, with ancient prayer rooms, an old library, a fountain with magical waters in the original cave, a Tibetan medicine center, a wonderful kitchen and many old friends ... Singge, the young Zanskari boy that we sponsor, stayed a few years at this gompa before being 'evicted' for bad behavior!

Back at camp, lunch is waiting, and you'll have the afternoon free for a shower, a nap, some laundry, a beer, whatever ...

15 - Trek Ichar 3900m

We follow the river along lovely cliff-side trail with broad views, first by a small, colorful tea-house at Cha, and then by two other villages and a large chorten, where if we look across the river, we'll see a tiny meditation retreat, tucked into the cliffs way above the river. An hour later, we should arrive at the few small houses and green fields of Tsetang; we often camp here, but today are moving on to Ichar, another great campsite giving us a full day of trekking after our rest day. We'll cross the river two times today on new bridges, somewhat Japanese in style; just before the second bridge and at another chorten, look across the river at an old monastery or fort built into the rock face. After crossing the second bridge, we'll hike for another 45 minutes along a great mani wall lined trail to our campsite over looking the river just below Ichar.

16 - Trek Reru 3830m

We have plenty of time to explore the village of Ichar this morning, so after breakfast and a steep climb up to the village, we'll spend a few hours watching life go by. From Ichar, we descend down to a small stream with a working barley mill, and then climb right back up on a trail with dramatic views, and the spray of a waterfall blowing back up to the top of the ridge. Staying high, we follow this spectacular trail high above the river for about two hours, being careful in the steep sections that blue sheep don't kick stones down on us. Heading again steeply down, the Zanskar River comes into view from the right, meeting the Kargyak Chu at the bridge that we cross over. Only one more steep climb up, and we've reached the plateau that houses Reru, its twin village, Mune, and the German sponsored Zanskari school. We camp by a lovely pond with a grove of willows in back, perfect for a bath, and might head into 'town' to do a bit of shopping as the road from Padum reaches Reru. Sadly, the road is extending further and further into Zanskar from the north and the south; we can see the new road on the opposite side of the river from Ichar, gaining length each year. More memorable sunsets await us from the hill overlooking the twin villages of Reru and Mune, with views of Mune Gompa in the distance.

17 - Trek Padum

Sorry, but we'll need to start the day with a few hours walking on the (dirt, and dramatic) road to the bridge just before Bardan Gompa, where we cross to the other side of the river, away from the road. The bridge lead to the old village of Pibcha, not on the main trekking route, and the oldest forest in Zanskar. The route on this side is wonderful, looking across at the thousand year old Bardan Gompa, meandering up and down the steep hillsides. We reach the lively village of Shilla, with another large forest, a few hours later, and then finally arrive at the pink bridge leading to Padum half an hour after that. We have to walk all the way through town to reach our campsite, near the Suru Valley end of the village.

Padum is a great village with a wild west feeling to it, a real Central Asian town, a mix of Buddhist and Muslim, with a gompa and a mosque, Muslim fruit sellers and Buddhist trinket shops, jeeps waiting for rides, trekkers waiting for a lift back to Leh (a two day drive, and a wonderful trip), restaurants with beer and momos; lots to see! Take some time and have a wander through town while Kim & Lhakpa do some re-supplying at the vegetable and dry goods shops.

18 - Drive or trek Karsha Gompa, drive Stongde Gompa 3600m

We've changed the itinerary a bit this year to include Karsha Gompa, one of the 'must-see' gompas in the Indian Himalaya. We have the option of a two hour walk to the gompa, or a 30 minute jeep drive, your choice. Karsha is a spectacularly perched gompa, the oldest meditation rooms almost 1000 years old, with a lively community of monks of all ages in attendance. We often catch a puja either in the prayer room or the outdoor courtyard, and the monks always welcome us as old friends. Afterwards, we jump into our waiting jeeps and drive across the valley to Stongde Gompa and our campsite just below the monastery. Stongde Gompa is also dramatically set in an open birch wood, a half hour walk up the mountainside to the large, white chortens leading to the inner courtyard. From the gompa, we get wonderful views out over the green patchwork of Stongde Village. If our friends Geshe Lobsang or Geshe Stenzin are at the gompa, we'll certainly be invited in for tea. We should try to catch the evening puja, a timeless ceremony of drums, horns, bells and resonating chanting. There is also an ancient prayer rooms with all sorts of treasures from the past, really worth a browse.

From the campsite and the gompa, look back towards Padum for breathtaking views back to the Himalayan barrier. We have now entered what was once the ancient Kingdom of Zangla, and we are heading towards the capital, Zangla itself; the kingdom is bordered by the Zanskar and Himalayan ranges, and the five hundred year old monasteries that testify to its antiquity dot the valley rim.

19 - Trek Zangla Doksa 3430m

We'll have to walk much of the day along the local road (but with great views across the Zanskar River), but we can get 'off-road' a bit and wander through the villages of Shillingskyid and Tsazar, well off the main trekking route, to get a taste of life in old Zanskar. Last year we ran into a red fox just above the road while exploring alternative routes, so this year we'll try to 'pioneer' new ways to avoid the road as well. We will reach our lunch spot by a natural spring just before Zangla by noon, and then trek up to the 500 year old Zangla Fort to explore the ruins ...

The Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the kings of Zangla, is a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of look-out towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago, but is now closed off. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally 'melted' the dzong, and it is now unfit to enter, unfortunately. An aside: the famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19th century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room.

Ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend to Zangla village. After some time in the village, we head across the plateau to our campsite, Zangla Doksa Camp. The grass is green, the stream warm, so go for a wash and settle in for the evening. Sunsets and sunrises are amazing from camp! The locals from Honya Doksa will pass by in the evenings with their large herds of sheep, goats and donkeys, making for some classic photos of traditional life in Zanskar.

20 - Trek Karmafu 3780m

Up valley, we pass through Honya Doksa, past pink rose briars, and up the unbelievable trail which leads us steeply up what seems to be a rock face and into 'Bear Valley'. We have a steep but beautiful 1000 meter climb to the 4430 meter Namtse La (the name means Top of the Sky Pass), the top quite otherworldly as we leave the wooded gorge behind. After lunch at the top of the pass if the weather cooperates, the trail snakes down into an arid plateau where the villagers of Zangla bring their yaks to graze, and then further down runs into a gurgling stream, lined with willows. Another few hours of trekking past spectacular 'hoodoos' in the sculpted canyon sides, we crest a tiny pass and descend into the next valley and our campsite at Karmafu, on a flat ridge over the river, cathedral-like sculptures rising above us across the valley. It's a great campsite, the hills having been sculpted into strange shapes by water, wind, and the passage of centuries. It's also a perfect spot for a bath, sheltered by the trees at the riverside, but don't venture too far away, as there may still be a few bears in the valley. In the evening, the guys will build a campsite both to keep the bears away, and because it's one of the only places in the Indian Himalaya where there is enough wood to make one!

Note: Our only actual bear spotting was in 2003, when our group did this trek for the first time. We spotted a brown bear cub right next to us, and then across the valley what we presumed to be its parents, not looking happy that a large group of trekkers were hanging out with their offspring. The next season we only spotted frozen bear scat and no prints, but in 2005 we again spotted fresh bear scat, so we presume that the bears are back! We hope to see them in 2007 ...

21 - Trek Bear Camp 3980m

Further into our 'lost world' of our remote Zanksari valley, our short walk today is an exciting and beautiful one. After a leisurely breakfast, we head off along the shimmering river, pass the spot where we spotted the bears a few years ago, and climb a small crest for magical views down the valley which we just walked up. The trail down the canyon from this point often slides, so Kim and Lhakpa will check out the trail first, and we will all walk the tricky bits together. Next, an easy stream crossing (bring your sandals along) followed by a high, exposed trail over the river far below us. Keep an eye out for ibex and blue sheep, which often roam high up in the nearby cliffs. Next on our list of adventures, an ice bridge that we either walk over or under, and a further half hour afterward, we arrive at Bear Camp! We'll have another fire tonight ...

22 - Trek Nyeraks 3710m

Up early for a big climb to the 4800 meter Takti La, about 1100 meters above us; we follow the stream upriver for half an hour before veering left up the rocky valley leading to the pass. We first reach the 'Oh Shit La', so named for the view of the Takti La which awaits us. But the pass is a lovely stopping point, and we have great views of the Himalayan Range in back of us as we contemplate the pass in front of us. Back down briefly, and then a steep group of switchbacks up a scree-filled hillside leads us eventually, exhausted, to the pass. Ki ki so so lha gyalo! But what a view, and we forget all of the pain of the morning as we look out over the Singge La to the serrated ridges of the Sirsir La, our goal a few days ahead. After lunch at the top, we head back down, again steeply as we lose the same amount of altitude as we gained. An hour later we see our goal, the village of Nyeraks, and another hour of contouring down, past centuries of sheep, goat and yak trails, we reach camp just next to the village.

Nyeraks is one of our favorite villages, far from the main trekking route, surrounded by dramatic swirls of contorted rock, the Zanskar River far below cutting a wide swath in this amazing landscape. Wander through the maze of small lanes in the village as the villagers pen their sheep and goats for the evening, and perhaps go inside one of the traditional houses; a real step back in time. You begin to understand the harshness of life in such a setting, between pass and river gorge, a seemingly impossible place, with its own beautiful monastery, and even an old, sacred tree. The small village gompa is wonderful, a real relic of times past ... Our campsite is another spectacular one (in a chain of them), with incredible sunset views over the village, gompa and surrounding peaks. The quality of light in this part of the Himalaya is breathtaking, so be sure to have an evening stroll through the village and take some shots.

23 - Trek Yulchung 3900m

It's a nice change as we head straight down to the Zanskar River this morning, officially entering Ladakh, and cross the river on an old, cantilevered bridge far above the Zanskar. Just before the river, note the cairn of sheep horns piled like a sculpture by the large chorten. Then back up, steeply switch-backing for the last half hour at the approach of the Chocho Khuri La, with its chortens, at 3800 meters. Ahead of us, we see one more small, wind scoured pass that we have to crest; at the corner before the pass is a perfect lunch promontory, so we'll take a break for some food and enjoy the spectacular views. We saw a red fox right here a few years ago, so keep your eyes open, as well as for blue sheep. One more winding traverse, and we cross the last ridge to Yulchung village, translated as 'small kingdom', another of Kim's favorite's. We pass the ruins of an old hermitage to the left, and head through the village, past fields of barley and white-washed houses, to our perfect campsite set on a plateau at the bottom of the village.

Tea in our Tibet dining tent overlooking the incredible, convoluted valley, and a visit to the 500 year old gompa is the plan for the afternoon. Yulchung is a magical village, made more colorful by the villagers, adorned in the season's flowers, who visit the dining tent, wool carders in hand.

24 - Trek Singge Valley Camp 4430m

It's not such a long day, but we as ever we have elevation to gain, and we climb slowly away from the precipitous gorge, through the rock platforms of Singge La High Camp, to the 5000 meter Singge La. Behind us loom the Himalayan barrier and Zanskar, ahead of us much of Ladakh and the Ladakh Range; we are presently crossing the Zanskar Range. It's hard not to feel insignificant in such a huge, dramatic landscape. We drop steeply from the pass, past the Ladakhi parachute tea-shop to our lovely campsite at Singge Valley Camp. You might awake to grazing yaks next to your tent in the morning, so don't be surprises at raspy grunts nearby ...

25 - Trek Photoksar 4200m

Back on the Zanskar traverse, a trading route from days of yore, we have a relatively easy day down the valley, across two rivers (a sandal day), contouring along several mani stone bordered trails to our pass of the day, the 4400 meter Bumiktse La. This valley is the high pasture of the Photoksar villagers, and we pass their herds all day en route to camp There is an a great view of Photoksar in front of us from the pass, as well as the Singge La valley, the Utah-like bulk of the Singge (lion) Peak and the Singge La (pass) behind. Down from the pass, we'll have time to cross the old, wooden bridge and make a short detour into Photoksar for a visit. Photoksar is one of the most photographed villages in Ladakh, easy to understand as the village clings impossibly to the hillside, and during certain months of the summer, the fields are either blanketed in lavender wild orchids, flowering pea pods or billowing, vivid green fields of barley. And the village itself is perched perfectly at the edge of the valley and the intersection to another valley, backed by large, swirling cliffs.

We'll try to pick up some fresh salad greens from the village greenhouses, and maybe even some fresh yogurt if anyone has brought some back from the doksas. We settle in at another especially wonderful campsite, with truly amazing sunsets, the village of Photoksar basking in the pink afterglow. The villagers, herding their flocks of sheep and goats, will stop by our campsite en route back to Photoksar with their herd of sheep and goats coming down from the high grazing hills ...

26 - Trek Hanupatta 3960m

We climb gently out of our camp to the chorten that marks the village bounds, and up the valley we see our last pass, the 4700 meter Sirsir La, an easy two hours hike away. Expansive views of the craggy Zanskar Range behind us and the sculpted valley to the west leading to the Shillakong Valley, a route only passable in low waters, reward us at the prayer-flag festooned summit. If it isn't too windy, we will have lunch up top before a long and gentle downhill to the green oasis of Hanupatta. Our camp is a ten-minute walk above the village, next to the river. It's yet another spectacular campsite, a perfect setting for our last evening of camping. We'll have a party tonight for the staff and horsemen, and give out their well-deserved tips ...

26 - Trek Panjila, drive Leh 3500m

Leaving camp, we arrive at Hanupatta village after walking through the trail lines with fading pink Zanskar roses, old rock walls and the fields of Hanupatta village. Enjoy the cathedral like rock spires, the blue, blue crashing river, and grab the shade while you can, as today can be hot. We'll reach a teahouse at the intersection of the trek to Photoksar (the shortcut) after about two hours, and soon after crossing the bridge over the river (but NOT the bridge just after the teahouse, leading BACK to Photoksar), we will reach the extent of the new road, sadly moving closer and closer with each year ...

Our jeep awaits us either at the new bridge, or at Panjila an hour further down the road, depending on the road conditions, and then we'll have a four to five hour drive back to Leh; en route, we'll pass the intersection of the Zanskar and Indus river, as Basgo Fort, Phyang Gompa and Spitok Gompa. We should arrive at the Shaynam Hotel in time for a shower and dinner.

Our first days of real Himalayan trekking, starting with an hour's walk along the new road being built to connect Ladakh with Zanskar. After crossing the new bridge, we continue on the dirt road for half an hour, eventually reaching the trail through the spectacular gorge leading to Hanupatta. Pink Zanskar roses line our trail, leaving behind a scent of cinnamon, and incredible spires of rock tower above at every corner. There is a chance for tea at the corner of our gorge and another leading to Photoksar, and an oasis of a spring soon afterwards to fill up water bottles. After another two hours of hiking, we enter the long village of Hanupatta, with its ancient carved mani walls and chortens, and continue another half hour to the rickety bridge that leads to our camp on the river.

27, 28 - Leh

We have two days to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of this little piece of old Tibet, King Tashi Namgyal's 15th century Himalayan capital. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town, and Kim knows it well; the fort and palace, colorful gompas, the mosque, a museum, back alleys with steaming Muslim bread and tiny antique shops tucked away, colorful bazaars and even a polo field. Of course, we'll show you the bakeries, cafes and the best tandoori restaurant in Leh (with cold, post-trek beers) for our last dinner together ...

We'll spend part of one day visiting some of the wonderful Tibetan Buddhist gompas and ancient forts which make the Indus valley such a scenic and historic region.

28 - Fly Delhi. Depart

We are up early for our Jet Air flight back to Delhi; goodbye to the stunning 'Kingdom in the Sky'. Your leader may fly to Delhi but sometimes stays in Leh, and in that case you will be met at Delhi airport by our Delhi staff and taken to the hotel to store your bags for the afternoon, to the international airport for your departure, or where ever else you chose to go for the afternoon. You could fly out of Delhi later in this day; most flights are at night and you should be back in Delhi by mid-morning to noon.

If you have successive international flights that are not all part of the same ticket or following domestic flights we suggest planning more cautiously and departing tomorrow. Let us know if you need us to book an extra room for the night.

Jullay!

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