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Shishapangma BC-ABC Support Expedition

**This page is a historic page frozen in time - see Our treks for the current website**

Tibet -- standard north side route

Above: Shishapangma from the summit of Cho Oyu.

If you want to climb an 8000m mountain without attempting suicide then the straightforward choices are Cho Oyu and Shishapangma (both climbed from Tibet). There are 8000m peaks but all have more caveats. On the normal route on Shishapangma is a relatively safe climb yet not nearly as popular or crowded as Cho Oyu or Gasherbrum II.

Shishapangma is the 14th highest mountain on the planet and is attributed with altitudes ranging from 8012m to 8046m. The mountain has two summits, the commonly climbed Central summit and the harder and less frequently climbed Main, true summit.

We offer comprehensive yet good value Base camp and ABC support with reliable staff that really do care, and we include a few extras that other companies charge extra for, or don't provide at all.

Looking from the true (Main) summit along to the Central summit - photo Jarle Tra, Norway

Itinerary

Please note that you go to altitude VERY quickly on this itinerary. We strongly suggest that you acclimatize prior to the road trip, or take Diamox and painkillers if you know you acclimatize easily.

Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1350m

We meet you at the airport, look for a sign with your name on it.

Days 2-3 in Kathmandu

Two free days in Kathmandu for relaxing, packing and preparing. You can leave any gear which you don't need during the expedition at the hotel.

4 - drive Zhangmu ~2400m

Leaving smartly, we take a private bus along the Friendship Highway to Kodari where we pass through Nepalese customs then cross the Friendship Bridge and climb to Zhangmu, the Chinese border town. The hotel is a curious throwback to the communist era, and the food distinctly ordinary.

5 - drive Nyalam 3750m

Our Land Cruisers and truck climb their way up the precipitous "road to hell" as the Chinese literally call it. Although it is rough and menaced by landslides, it is also starkly beautiful in the deep gorge.

6-7 - rest day Nyalam 3750m

We relax for two days to aid acclimatization. You are welcome to explore the village and to climb west towards Shishapangma South Face Base Camp, a tough but rewarding day trip. Any extra nights here will be charged at CTMA rates.

8 - drive Shishapangma Base Camp 5000m

Half a day of driving brings us to 'Chinese' base camp. The views of Shishapangma are wonderful from this grassy camp near a stream.

9-10-11 - stay Base Camp 5000m

We spend several days acclimatizing and preparing our equipment for the yaks to carry to Advance Base Camp. There are some superb day trips possible. For anyone who needs to stay longer than 4 nights here we will leave some tents here.

12 - trek ABC ~5600m

It is a long days trek to ABC (Advance Base Camp). Yaks do the hard work while we trek carrying only day packs. Everyone will be feel the altitude and probably the gear will arrive late, apologies in advance.

13-14 - ABC

We set up ABC in an ablation valley. We have a puja, a ceremony to show respect for the mountain. The puja is held on an auspicious day decided by the sherpas, you should contribute Rs1500 each for the flags and person who presides over the ceremony.

15-40 (25 days) climbing Shishapangma

Good luck! You are responsible for yourself while above ABC. We provide a walkie talkie, you need to bring AA batteries, they take six at one time.

Departure

The expedition finishes either when the last of the members has returned or on hte dates below. If you leave earlier then if you are a group of 3-4 then there should be no extra charge. If you are another number there WILL be an EXTRA charge. The Liaison Officer's decision is final.

41 - packing ABC

Please ensure you have removed everything from the mountain. Our ABC rubbish is piled up for later removal by the Chinese authorities.

42 - trek BC, drive Nyalam/Zhangmu

We pack everything else for the yaks to hump down. The idea is to trek to BC then get the truck and Landcruisers there in the afternoon, heading to Nyalam or even Zhangmu. Back to thicker air!

43 - drive Kathmandu

We should arrive in Kathmandu late afternoon or evening ready to enjoy the good restaurants.

Day 44 - Kathmandu

Time for a good relaxing and shopping and to celebrate the expedition.

Day 45 - departure

Highlights

Reliable, value service

Walkie talkie included

Extra yak charges included

Solar charging

Cost

US$12,500

Deposit: $5000

2011 Dates

please ask

Arrival hotel

Hotel Shakti, Thamel

tel: 441 0121, 442 9508

Local office contact

Expedition Himalaya

Tel: +9771 400 1066

Nabin Trital: +977 98510 04278

Pasang Nuru: +977 98130 91051

Our service includes

Airport transfers

5 nights hotel in Kathmandu, single with breakfast

All group transportation by private vehicle

Chinese visa and all travel and climbing permits

on expedition:

BC and ABC services

1x walkie talkie (AA batteries not included)

At BC and ABC all meals and large single tent

Solar charging for cameras etc

Our service excludes

Puja costs, allow Rs1500

Crew tips, allow $150

Early departure from BC (~$500 per Landcruiser)

Mountain rescue costs, emergency evacuation

Insurance, Nepal visa, meals in Kathmandu

Personal climbing equipment

tents, meals or service above ABC

International flights to Kathmandu, equipment rental, alcohol and soft drinks, laundry, tipping and other items of a personal nature

Shishapangma Base Camp

Shishapangma BC with Shishapangma behind - Jamie

Shishapangma ABC

Shishapangma ABC - Jamie

Attitude

This is a BC-ABC services expedition. Your crew are very experienced and there to manage the logistics of the expedition and cook for the expedition. Work with them, they are great guys.

You live together for more than a month so please have consideration for your fellow team members, crew and and other mountaineers. Being polite and reasonable goes a long way, even minor dehydration makes almost anyone surprisingly irritable and intractable.

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